Power Tapping for Cheaters! New Tap Adapters for Easy Threading 

The 17yr old prom kid got me pretty good, my wife had to come see what I was laughing at. She laughing too. Good work and cheers 🤠

Smiles, I was that 17 year old Prom Kid. Damn, thanks for the memory. Great video.

There are a few channels so consistent that I like first ,then watch. Thanks for the edutainment.

Nice collection with options. I forgot about those quick adapters. Used them quiet often too. 👍

Always good to see new videos from you.

Oh thanks a lot. Now I must possess this kit! Saving my pennies... Great video, thanks for sharing!

I really enjoy watching you and listening to you. Thank you very much.

We used the at the mutsubishi engine plant in australia 15 years ago works great amazing tool

Great finds and buys! Great video. Thank you.

Precision Matthews has an ultra precision chuck that I've been happy with for the last couple of years.

Good video. And always try to remember if you aren't making mistakes you aren't learning. Keep the vid's coming

Yes, oxtool does has an excellent video on rebuilding a Albrecht CHUCK. Go back 5 years to find it.

As usual, Aaron has created a DIY video extraordinaire! I was glued to the monitor taking in things I had never known. Praise Jesus for giving this kind man awesome "talents".

Nice video. Love the visual of the cutting tool creating smoke and chips like around the 13:30 mark. Will definitely be back to check out your channel 😎

Nice set!

Hi Aaron, An interesting video... thanks for sharing... Take care Paul,,

Interesting and entertaining. Who could ask for more?

Enjoyed...nice tooling addition

I have been using the lyndex brand of the spring compression tap holders for about 20 years now when cnc power tapping. In my bridgeport, I normally just put the tap in a DA 180 collet holder. Nothing wrong with what your doing though, unless you put a tap in a chuck again.

I have a 3/4” Jacob’s ball bearing chuck. I did the rebuild, but much of the problem is still there, because most of the problem turns out to be the unhardened body, not the jaws, which I measured as being pretty good after all. The grooves for the jaws were worn out, and the jaws don’t close in a parallel way, with the tips of the jaws, when closed, not touching. If I use too much pressure to be realistic, they will almost touch, but not quite. So the chuck is relegated to rough work where I don’t want to use the new one. That was the only chuck I bought, used. Never again. Someone must have beared down pretty hard on shanks that didn’t go all the way down the jaws. That’s the easiest way to destroy a chuck. So many chucks. Quite a while ago, I bought a new Walton chuck. You can change drills when the machine is running, but I rarely use it because I still feel nervous about doing that. Keyless chucks are nice, but I find that no matter what, I have to use the loosening wrench to give an extra bit of tightening. Tapping devices are just a real pain to set up. If I had a really heavy drill press, or a tapping drill press, such as the one Grizzly had for a short time, that would be great, but I’m out of room. There is an Albrecht model with jaws with diamond embedded. Expensive, but it eliminates the problem of gripping taps, or mill bits.

There are two more series of tension/compression tap holders besides the set you have. A person has to remember that the initial transmission of torque on a Bridgeport comes from the threaded drawbar and collet alignment screw in the spindle. It is better to error on the side of caution and limit the size of tap used on a Bridgeport rather then spending time and money on a spindle regrind in my opinion. I personally do not drive taps over 5/8 on mine. Anything beyond that goes in the radial drill ( Now I’ve opened myself up to those who have driven a 1-8 tap in a Bridgeport.) I would also get an endmill holder for that tension/compression tap holder (the type that uses a set screw(s)), and stop using it in a keyless chuck, the reason being that keyless chucks continuously self tighten and can do so to the point of cracking their body. Keyless chucks are designed for the torque generated by a drill or reamer, not the torque used to drive a tap. Baring the end mill holder, at the very least I would use a ball bearing keyed chuck.

LOL Prom kid had me going, Very nice video thanks for sharing.

I love the attention to details you put in your work! I did notice that you are running your mill with a VFD and it seems that you have a fairly long acceleration ramp programmed in. I’d lower the acceleration ramp and add a brake resistor to the vfd to stop the spindle quickly instead of using the bp brake. This would extend the life of your hand brake and increase the control you have over your power tool especially when tapping. Keep up with the good content!

You can get new jaws for this chuck. The good thing with the tapco is will reverse when you lift up on the quill.

hmmm that rubber filled chuck gave me an idea to repair a cheap tapping wrench using two small pieces of steel and silicone , the silicone replaces the need for springs and clips and prevent the chucks beaks to fall out and get lost on the ground

Welcome to the Eagle 66 club. You can change or adapt the nozzle spot to fit your needs I have several 66 all setup for different applications jus love the look and feel

I have had very poor luck rebuilding the Jacobs ball bearing style chucks. I have tried two and they both ended up with unacceptable run out. Good luck.

Best video yet.

With your slipping Jacob's chuck. Check out the 5 buck 69669 harbor freight diamond coated burrs. You might be able like I did and clamp the burr in a vice and the chuck in a drill press or vertical mill.. one hand on the quill handle and the other on the chuck sleeve. The spindle is locked from turning. Up and down with the chuck over the diamonds while you are snuggling it slightly can refresh the grippy surface. Without putting in excess runout. If you tried grinding it or spinning it would fill the chuck with particles locking it forever

Like the video. Always like seeing how other people do things. Maybe one day I have my on channel.

It might make sense to make the replacement for the broken part on the Tapmatic tapping head.

Great video! Does your arbor have / need a drawbar?

Most excellent.

Thanks for sharing

Hey Aaron. Perhaps I missed it along the way, but I don't know if you have ever mentioned how you got into/interested in hobby machining, what your background is, employment, etc. I find the RU-vid machinist community an interesting group of people and enjoy hearing more about them. Sounds like a video topic??? Great channel. Thanks

How’s it goin buddy, those tap holder are pretty slick. How cool would it be if a guy could get a set of compatible holders for tap drills. You’d have all you’re common taps and tap drills ready to go, all with the one arbor. ….🤔 Great video, take care.

Thanks for sharing sir….could’ve warned us on the “money $ shot” though…?

An American using an Indian tap. That is a first. If it's a Totem that's a great brand. Using that for a long time in India and they are great and long lasting. Take care and be safe. Greetings from India.

That jacobs may just need to be realigned on the taper adapter.

Power tapping with the Tapmatic is dead easy. I had several hundred 10-32 holes to tap so I bought one and installed it in a drill press. I did the first one with no problems - just down and then back up. I did a dozen or so and then turned the job over to a totally inexperienced assistant who was watching me do the first dozen and he did the rest with no problems or broken taps. It really could not be easier. I have to wonder about that semi-rigid drive thing.

You should be able to buy a rebuild kit for those chucks with new teeth gears and springs etc etc

Any 3 hp BP type mill with a back gear has enough torque to not only hoist itself off the floor but probably the whole shop itself if it's anything close to average sized. Could it do so without destroying the heads internals? No, but there's still ample torque available. It doesn't factor in the frictional losses, but take that 3 hp motors torque and multiply it by the belt and back gear ratio. It's not hard to find 10,000 lb pulling capability 4X4 winches using 12 V and far smaller motors than a BP mill has and I doubt there gear reductions are quite as steep as the BP mills have. Even more so with a VFD since it keeps adding power as the spindle loads get higher. So lack of torque isn't the issue, the mill heads internals and tiny little R8 taper are where the limits are.

Collet jaws is the word you are looking for, power tapping is great for production work but the temptation to use it on a job with 40 hrs of table time is madness. Yes Adam has one but my 10 bucks if he has a job with loads of time and a high grade steel that needs a thread in it he will be a half fwd and one back by hand.

Hello Aron. there are rebuild kids for albrecht drill chucks, Oxtools has a video abound it

oh man! do they make this for drill bits?! I make custom pens and probably drill 12 holes and have to tap with three different taps... been looking for something like this that I could put into my tailstock!! then just leave the bits in the adapters, pop them in and out as needed!!

Are there tap adapters that also take a drill bit? I'd like to be able to easily switch from drill to tap.

All take that tapmatic any chance I can. The only reason to u use the blitz would be for larger taps (depending on what model tapmatic u have ) . Get to know that tapmatic as it will be your best friend ! It can save u alot of $$$ in taps . As far as power tapping with chucks I have no prob with my tegara keyless chuck but I can see where worn out chucks will slip and not hold . I'm pretty happy with the tegara products(made in Taiwan) so if anyone is on a budget I highly recommend them ! Way better then the cheaper China stuff .

I'm jealous!

Arron, I recently broke a drill bit on my mill, I found the cheap Chinese R8 arbor bent pretty badly the chuck seems fine!

Dude, you have an epic shop & an excellent skill set. Why in hell would you waste time/ $$ searching for expensive &/ or obscure parts? Make the damn thing.

You didn't get adaptors for metric taps? :)

I've been really into power tapping for for the past few months, and there are shockingly few videos demonstrating it on the interwebs.

Albrecht makes rebuild kits for the CP series and some others.

I would stay away from drill chucks and any floating tap holders. tg or er collet holders are the way for pretty much anything, endmills, drills, taps.

Aaron, I was hoping to get in touch with you once I learned you are in the Phoenix area. I would enjoy visiting with you and looking at your shop and equipment. My shop is in Fountain Hills and I have a mixture of manual and CNC machines that you may enjoy looking at. If you have any interest in doing this, let me know how to reach you.

About an hour with a stone and some strategic stoning on the jaws on that jacobs and you can have it running true and gripping right, no need for new jaws.

Anyone know of a cheap Bilz set clone?

Aaron, Please do not trash that chuck, i need the outer shell for that same chuck, I will pay shipping and your price for the chuck, Love that tap attachment.thanks

Cute oil can ! where is it from ?

Jt tapers need to be cleaned, lined up and given one good wack with a dead blow... and done.

Kit price ...?

Now just have to take all of the taps out of the adapters before closing the box.

Keyless chucks are self tightening which means if the drill, tap, or whatever is in the chuck starts to slip the chuck automatically tries to tighten down on it. In the case of a tap which needs tons of torque in comparison to a drill bit the chuck can tighten down to the point where the chuck itself will crack. How do I know this you ask? Don’t ask. Since this little episode I only use a ball bearing keyed chuck to power tap in the mill. Keyed chucks do not continue to self tighten. Large diameter taps should be driven with a tapping head such you are now using. There is a reason for this as well that I will not go into.

A drill chuck or a lathe chuck is not intended to hold hardened steel. You can't really hold taps or end mills in chucks. Holding a tap securely isn't going to happen. A work around is to hold the tap in the drill chuck moderately tight. When it slips, cut the power and finish tapping with a tap wrench and a spring loaded center to support the tap. Sometimes you get lucky and the tap will go all the way through, especially in soft materials like Aluminum. Never try to drive a round shank end mill in a lathe chuck. Get an end mill holder to fit the lathe spindle. They aren't very expensive, at least for 2 &3 Morse taper spindles. The problem is that (1) the end mill will likely slip and when it does it will be sucked out of the chuck into the work..usually ruining the end mill and the work. And (2) there is too much run out in a scroll chuck for any kind of accurate work. As others have said, rebuild the Jacobs chuck. Follow the directions in the rebuild kit and it's pretty easy. $45 for a repair kit to fix a $250 chuck is reasonable. Cheers from NC/USA

$500 !! Tap collet whoa

Hi Aaron You can get replacement parts for the Albrecht here: www.mcmaster.com/albrecht-chucks

I love new gadgets and such, but I'd have to be tapping a LOT of holes to justify spending $463. on that set!

ild call them teeth in the rubber

Or messing up a drill chuck by putting an end mill into it for a quick flat spot on round stock and having the end mill come out😱

👍👍😎👍👍

You can tap that jacobs back to zero! Put a pin in it, and tap it in with a brass hammer. I do this to all my jacobs chucks patrioticly.

Good luck power tapping blind holes with that setup.

You can get new jaws and rebuild that chuck for less that $100

😱😱😱 STOP STOP STOP 🛑 🛑🛑 I see this is two years old, but OMG!!! Never use a press or anything to seat two tapers together. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out why that other taper adapter was so hard to separate. Now I know. With tapers, put the taper on until it’s about an inch from seating, then give it some speed. One finger and your thumb only. THATS IT! The taper is locked, nothing will separate it! Next, your damaged Jacob’s chuck and your broken reversible clutched tapping tool… Mate, I was screaming at the TV. You have ALL the tools to make a replacement part, that’s what they’re for. Make the parts! That’s what makes machinists and hobbyists drool, repairing broken things that require machining new parts for it, fixing the bad runout so it’s within a thou. It’s what those machines were made for. Don’t buy rebuild kits or spare parts or anything like that ever again. The only thing you want to be buying from this point forward if metal. Look out for metal everywhere you go, you’ll soon have a rack full of bits you’ve found. A two inch construction bolt would be perfect for machining a new Jacob’s chuck collar for example. You don’t need a shiny new 6ft inconel round bar. An old bolt is perfect. An off it from a machine shop is perfect. I get nearly all my metal from machine shop off offcuts. You still pay, but a fraction of the price of new stock. A 57mm (2.25inch”) long, 8” diameter off-cut of C93200 Lead/Bronze alloy cost me $42 AU. Insane! It’s $8,445.28 AU per metre (3.3ft) which makes my 57mm long, 8” round bar would retail at $481 AU obviously you can’t buy 57mm, you have to buy a 3.05m bar costing $25,758.11 at todays price. The moral, grab all the bits of metal you can. Best to know the grade, but not essential. Get yourself a metal chart and put it up in your shed and always write on the metal what it is with paint pen marker. You’re not going to learn and become proficient and confident until you start using your machinery. Lastly, use your mill for tapping. Not that crappy, wobbly old excuse for a drill press you have. Use your tools mate. Get a set of micrometers up to 2 inches and USE YOUR MACHINES. Turning or milling to a thou accuracy is NOT an easy thing for a beginner. Making a cube, say 4” on the mill to within a thou is a great training aid. Use whatever scrap you can find. On the lathe, turn something to a set diameter to within a thou or within 2 thou, take it out of your lathe and put it back in so the axis is within a thou. Making a sine plate uses both mill and lathe and requires the utmost accuracy. Remember I said micrometer! Not calipers, they are not accurate enough for this sort of work. (Yes the accuracy of callipers can be very good, but you lose accuracy in their use - not good enough!) Good luck. Mick 🇦🇺 PS - always pay strict attention to SPEEDS & FEEDS Material SPEED at the cutting point. FEED rate of your tool. And don’t forget that as you lathe something, as the diameter decreases, so does the speed, so adjust it as you go! VERY IMPORTANT! In your video, that was a great looking piece of ‘scrap’ steel,! “Looking” is not a satisfactory way to check for runout lolol Your drill speed looked WAY WAY too fast. Check it out in you machining bible or on line I guess, but you may get ‘opinions’, not fact. ! It’s Good practice - get a chart up. Milling, drilling, lathe-ing, tapping. All need the right speeds and feeds. Keep that drill bit cooler. At least centre punch and preferably drill a pilot hole as well. Centre punch EVERY home you drill. Figure out why it is CRUCIAL. Looked like you tried to stop the first tapping effort with your muscles on the feed handle lol Why are drill chucks consumable items - not true! If you think it is, send me ALL your old ones! Great that you had supports under the plate you were drilling!!! Hope they were parallels. You should be buying store box brands. You are not a production machining centre. CRAZY if you shell out big clams on the best available! Every spare minute, use your machines mate. Make stuff. Really test yourself. Get comfortable with outside and inside thread cutting so it’s a walk in the park to do it. It scares most hobbyists.

Hi, as some other has pointed out, you can get new jaws (ordinary and diamond coated) for the Albrecht chuck. And here is the correct way to service an Albrecht drill chuck www.albrecht-germany.com/en/instruction/ go to Repair manuals SBF , and the most importent thing they point out is to NOT put any grease or oil on spindle 2 and body 4, then you get the most out of your chuck. There are many videos on YT on servicing an Albrecht drill chuck and they all get it wrong with NO grease or oil on spindle 2 and body 4, one Mr. Wizzard even deleted my comment on how to do it correctly.

.....15:52..............screw ?????

Thanks Aaron ...They’re Dogs..not Cogs...

1/2 " bolt not a screw

At its price point I honestly dont see its advantage . Its clunky to operate and sloooooow The tapmatic is just a breeze and is reversible and clutched and probably cheaper used on ebay.