Brother, if I can meet you I give you my half pay of today , you made my day, I was struggling with the taper holder , it came out when catched the thread, that push by hand on tail stock did everything...and my supervisor is an idiot😂😂😂😂, cheers man
Good job but I have two questions. A) Isn't a small chamfer in the hole and a tap for blind holes, more appropriate and b) Getting the tap to touch the bottom of the hole can brake it, especially if someone is using this kind of tap and has tightened it firmly in the chuck (as he should). In my workplace we usually chamfer the hole, lower the RPM and after tightening the tap for blind holes, we rotate the handwheel with the tailbody not moving. If the tap starts to spin, we tighten it even more in the chuck. After getting in a safe depth inside the part, we reverse the spindle and the rotation of the tailbody handwheel. What is your opinion on this practice?
ok. i havent really done much power tapping on a lathe. but i have done an ass load of hand tapping/ guided tapping on a lathe or mill. and rigid tapping on haas cnc mills. first off. how do you know that it is going to grab in the same spot and cut the same thread path? why not make your hole a bit deeper to get it in one pass? why not use a spiral tap that pulls the chips back out of the hole? you are using a type of tap meant for tapping through holes that forces the chips down and out the bottom of the hole to end up with a cleaner thread. mostly used on CNC machines instead of sold in hand tapping sets. that is what the cutting edge slanted down towards the tip does. if you're taping a blind hole why not start it with a normal tap to go part way on the lathe and then finish by hand so you can get the treads lined up just right? again. i could just not know what i am talking about because i havent really done any power tapping on a manual lathe. But much of this does not make good sense to me.
