Maybe the “bent” riving knife is for non thru cuts ? Incra and Jessem are the best miter gauges. I was pretty surprised by the bogging down, I went with the 3 hp unisaw, new style with both wheels in front, love it never bogged it down.
Nice saw, but the dog is my favorite! Just kidding, this is a really great video. I hav been considering this saw and now for the money, I am thinking a bit more.
Thanks for the review. I just ordered the same exact saw this evening from Acme Tools. They had it on sale for $2199. I found a written review about the PM1000 from Popular Woodworking online, and they also had an issue with the motor not cutting through the first few cuts. They called Powermatic who advised to tension the v-belt . That fix gave it all the power it needed. So maybe try that...
Congrats on a very nice table saw. I bought my first table saw new at Sears in 1984. It was a bottom line 10" saw that gave me many years of reliable service. I replaced it in 2010 with a Delta Unisaw built in 1964. That saw is an absolute beast. It runs as smooth as silk, never bogs down and is always dead on accurate. I ran it on 120 volts for the first couple years and then switched it over to 240. I noticed it spins up to speed a lot faster on 240 and seems like it has a lot more power. I bet yours will be up to task when you rewire to 240.
the PM 1000 is a 1.75 hp motor. mine brand new wouldn't cut a 2x4 without tripping the thermal switch. I tried everything with no success. Finally made the company I bought it from get me a new motor. That did the trick. I can cut anything with it now without it shutting off. Also, why would you use the miter gauge without the handle locked down? I just set mine on 90 degrees from the blade and leave it. Although I don't cut a lot of odd angles with mine.
The proper term to use for steeling it, "It's a safety award", this from my brother that's a rig welder. That's a nice design feature to have the riving knife and blade guard so easy to remove, without wrenches. That miter gauge is a real letdown for Powermatic. Isn't that a 5HP motor on that unit? My 1955 Craftsman 10" dies when I cut 2x4s that same way, but it's 1/3HP. I think going to 240VAC input would fix that. But that high end saw should be able to cut a 2x4 on the tall edge (I know it does not clear the blade depth). But it should not stall out in soft pine and you should be able to push it fast. My upgrade a few years ago was a Gizzly 14" table saw, they were selling them on clearance. It has a 3ph 7.5HP, that I'm powering with a 10HP VFD. Never has let me down, and I've been cutting full depth red oak through it, with a carbide tipped blade missing teeth (I keep cutting used wood with those hardened construction screws buried). As for the cast iron warp, that a sign they did not used seasoned castings and do any destressing heat treatment. If you recall Grizzly's catalog and web page used to talk about them having full machining and grinding equipment to correct this issue. I think they flushed that from sight now. Looks like Powermatic has gone the way of Delta, with pure import manufacturing, that hardware should be grade 5 at least. Nice review.
That's disappointing. Was seriously considering this saw but think I'll pass. A saw in that price range shouldn't have that cheap fence. Had that fence on a Grizzly and despised it. Got rid of the fence and the saw. Looking for something better. Thanks for the review and saving me a few thousand dollars. Also, don't think 220 is going to help that motor. That's just poor manufacturing from around the other side of world.
