The unboxing and setup of my new Precision Matthews PM1030V metal lathe. I'll be using this in my business, Resto-Euro LLC. Check out the shop RU-vid channel here: / channel
well it's a lathe ru-vid.comUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
I bought a damaged 1127 VF from PM, love it. Matt will make you an offer you cannot refuse if he has any returned machines that were damaged in transit and customer refused; they check 'em out head to tail and everything in between, and you still get a 3 year warranty too.
Great review. I was thinking of purchasing one of these but am bummed I'm late to the party. Your $2100 shipped cost is now ~$3500 shipped with the taxes.
Hey Dean, Looks like a nice little lathe, my favorite machine tool. As you may know, on the three jaw chuck, when you remove the master jaws to clean the scroll, they come out 1, 2, 3, and go back in the reverse order. The independent 4 jaw you just match jaw to screw, location. Nice you got a face plate with it. When using a file, hold handle of file in left hand for safety. I ran lathes for over 30 years, lots of fun. Work safe be good, C.
Hey there, great video! Have found it difficult to find a good video on this machine. I bought the Busy Bee CX706 version a month ago, which is exactly the same (unlike other clones which all seem to vary). The only thing that mine did not include however, is the quick change tool post. I have bought one, but am currently researching retrofitting methods as it isn't a simple case of throwing it on there! Would love to see your compound without the tool post, just to see how it is installed. No worries if you haven't got time tho! Cheers. Pete
Be careful when slinging as the straps can exert pressure on the leadscrew etc when strain is applied. Much better to make a small spreader bar and pick with the straps parallel. Personally I went a step further and welded two cross pieces with a spacer the length of the id of the ways. Then the outboard ends had welded eye bolts so the pick was completely outside the ways and screws etc. from underneath. I also used a couple of ratchet straps leading fore and aft to balance the load even more than just what the tailstock could do. This method also gave it a wider base so it lessened the tipping tendency (two more straps allowed adjustment there). My lathe was 1200# and I dealt with a low overhead from which I used a chain fall and a home made gantry to get it into place under a beam. I then lifted it up onto a welded stand. Always best to be careful even if you don't get hurt it is painful to watch a nice machine take a tumble. Take care. Doug
Looks like a pretty good setup be curios to see how it holds up in time,,,I'm a vintage lathe guy have 3 atlas metal lathes,,12 inch, and two 6 inch,,,I restore them,,, they have proven themselves.
I have a Warco WM 240 that is identical to your m/c, the new Warco model has not got the gear selection knobs on for feed screw direction and 3 speeds. Mine is about 10 years old now and the only problem I had was with the micro switch on the rear guard, that was cured by a bit of packing on the bracket that makes contact with the switch. Best thing I ever bought, it replaced an old Myford Super 7 , that was flimsy in comparison . Its had a lot of use and it still maintains its accuracy.
Late to the party but having the same lathe I know the limitation due to low mass. You would have done better with more mass in your base. Your base while somewhat rigid will not prevent vibration. I cast a 4 inch concrete bast and anchored the lathe bed to it. Still have a lot of trouble digging into 'harder' material, even 304 ss gives me that wavy vibration pattern but much better than you're looking at work that base.
Big Thank you !! This video that you so graciously uploaded solved an issue I had. My lathe looks almost identical to yours but it's a Weiss WM280V-F...Well I had just moved and was plugging it in for the first time since moving and NOTHING !!! Well after a couple hours of electrical diagnostics I gave up and went to youtube and low and behold there you were to save my day and possibly my wallet because a flimsy bracket they had to depress the safety cut off switch needed to be bent out enough to actually depress the switch ....so again ....Thank You So MUCH !!!
Hey, I really enjoy your videos. just wanted to suggest to you to maybe install some T5 high Bay fluorescent fixtures and get rid of those high Bay lights and the T8 fluorescent fixture. Those things are extremely annoying to listen to when working.
I did an engineering apprenticeship in a workshop some 48 years ago and was always told never use a florecent light above any machine with moving parts as it will/can make the speed seem slower because it can have a strobe effect. good vid
Good stuff. Been thinking about getting one of these. I have the PM727M Mill and you are spot on about Matt. Customer service is excellent. Thanks for the review!
that key, the one with the female square is the wrench for the old tool clamp, the screws that hold the rectangular tools in this holder have the square drive the wrench fits, and that high Morse taper dead center is for the head stock , for LARGE work, the face plate replaces the 3-jaw chuck and a drive dog fits in a slot in the plate, the dead center fits in, and the small one in the tail-stock, and the tail-stock quill, tightens the work for between_Centres turning.
LOL Several months ago I was temped to respond to a job posting for a auto technician at a shop called Resto-Euro here in NC but I was in my last semester of CNC machining school. I seen that they had a lathe like yours and never put 2 and 2 together. Here I am looking at PM 14-40 reviews and your channel was the first to pop up. Small world. How has your PM lathe held up after these few years? I keep hearing they are good lathes for the money.
Will this machine cut standard threads without having to change “quick change” gears? If it doesn’t I’m leaning towards the smithy they has an actual gearbox. You only have to swap change gears if you go to metric.
If those slides and scale are in .001 then I'm the Pope. More like 0.01, if that. What junk. When pushing the slide back and forth, I can see with the naked eye that there is too much play, too much cranking.
Does ANYONE have dimensions of the base legs, i have hole to hole distances, but no width of base besides the table width of 5-1/4" ? im making a stand before mine comes, and no one has the dimensions of the base legs on the cast iron bed. the PM website/crew do not have any dimensions of the base legs.. if anyone owns this lathe, please if you can give some dimensions i would greatly appreciate it!!!
looks good. I suggest you don't worry about using a machinist s level on the lathe. bed leveling really has more to do with the ways being parallel. if you turn a diameter on a long piece of stock and it measures the same along the length then you're "level". If the ways aren't parallel it will turn a taper which requires shimming on the tailstock to correct.
Bad and incomplete information. The lathe need not be level lengthwise along the ways but the ways need to be in the same plane, measured front to back. It is corrected by LEVELING THE LATHE across the ways; not by adjusting the tailstock. That is only valid on a level lathe. Your method is not only incorrect but assumes that all turning will be between centers.
Looks like the end of the compound leadscrew is bent a little, the scale and the wheel wiggle when rotating. In light of the metal in the compound, I would attach magnets to the drainplugs of all the lube reservoirs and clean the oiling passages. Check drainplugs for metal after running a while.
I got a better idea, let's say we pay900 to a 1000 bucks and make it work just as well as the 2200and some dollar one.never the less there all made in China and cheaply.
I have the exact same lathe. Same problem with the floppy gear cover. The metal is so thin the cover flexes enough it doesnt press the safety switch hard enough. If i swap gears it takes a lot of tinkering to get it on right so i can start the machine. But for me the biggest problem is the bolts holding the cross slide together. Mine stripped one at a time. So as i replace each bolt with a gr 8 bolt made at a local machine shop a new bolt strips. So as i get money i have the local machine shops build me new parts so i can use it for a few minutes until i discover what will break next. After replacing numerous parts i finally gave up. It just got too expensive to continue on my budget.
I was afraid of that,,,it looks pretty cheaply made,,I'll stick too my vintage lathes they have lasted 50 years with no issues,,,and I can get 3 for the price of one new one,,l buy and restore vintage tools.
I got a PM1440HD about a year ago. Nice machine. Quality Tools were good to deal with. Even though the machine came with a lot of accessories, I ordered the taper attachment, a collet chuck (which is quite nice) and a set of 5C collets as options. I've used the collet chuck a lot more than I thought I would. I've still spent quite a bit on various things. 5 tool holders came with the machine, I bought 6 more, (of the original 5 one is for a boring bar and one is for knurling, you will want a different knurling tool.) I bought an assortment of HSS tool steel, to grind, a set of inserted boring bars (that are less than ideal,) A Noga magnetic dial indicator holder, threading gage, 5 gallons of Mobile gear oil, (you need to change out the original after running the machine for awhile,) lathe files, and on & on.... Even though this lathe is heavy & powerful enough to use carbide tooling on I haven't gone that route yet. Feeds, speeds, & depth of cut need to be considerably greater for carbide than HSS! Best RU-vid site I've found for learning is Joe Pieczynski's ru-vid.com/show-UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
Just got an 1130v delivered and set up. Any ideas why my longitude axis handle is hard to turn? It's not like the cross slide or compound. Those are super smooth. Lock bolt has been released.
Please could you tell me what height you made the table and if you think you got the height correct? it would also be nice to know your height. I'm told that your elbow should be level with the lathe center or the cross slide wheel. I want to make a table for the same type of lathe, but only want to do it once :)
So rather than hoist and measure the main mounting holes from the bottom of the lathe, why not just measure the location of those holes using the chip pan?
Compound looks like the handle end of the leadscrew is bent, note the change in clearance between numbered wheel and the compound body, and was that a shiny spot on the wheel? Is this related to the tight spots in the travel?
FYI grease is a dirt chip and swarf magnet - it will stay on your change gears, but so will all the grit. try to keep it clean in there and don't wear out your change gears.
They used to say you can determine the quality of a lathe by the length of the headstock. The longer it is, with more distance between the bearings, the better. Going by that old adage, this isn't going to be all that great by the looks of it...
Dino the big dead centre can be used for turning between centres can prob pull the chuck off and it will have a no5 morse tapered centre ,put the big dead centre in and you can turn diameter bigger than your chucks jaws allow ,just have to take it steady on your cuts
Yes, if you take the chuck off, you can then put a drive plate and use a lathe dog to turn a piece between centers (see here : en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe_dog )
I needed a (forward or reverse) relay for my machine when it was delivered and they never sent me one as promised. We put the reverse one in the forward position to be able to use it. Does anyone know where I can get one?