I have been shooting "long range" for a short time and I have tried both dialing and holding over, I too like to hold over even for small targets. I like not messing with the turrets unless I have to.
Idea for a video that gets overlooked: Time. It would be nice to see someone talk about the time it takes to get into a long range shooting position and make a quality shot. This is one area I think that can really set systems apart. I know systems for shooting positions are set for different things, but it would be nice for someone to compare difference in equipment and technique. Example would be all the top end equipment that is unloaded at the range from a truck 20' away vs carrying everything in a pack and have a shooting position ready in under 30 seconds.
Yes, it would be nice to see someone make a video on the tradeoffs. Weights is another thing to consider. I do a bit of hunting and what I'm doing determines what I take. Sometimes a simple traditional hunting rifle with shooting sticks is good enough. Other times it is the whole load out: AR, rangefinder, bipod, shooting mat, anemometer.
Don't forget that you can combine dialing and holding. It's useful when you want to use maximum magnification, where much of the reticle will not be visible. If your dope calls for 8 mils but you can only see the 4 mil stadia line, you could dial in 5 mils and use the 3 mil stadia line to hold.
What would be the advantage of this 'combining' method over just dialing in the full amount? If you are dialing (have the time and trust your scope) anyways, why not take the extra split second to turn the dial little more to full amount and keep things simple? Other than running out of scope adjustment at extreme distances...
@@michaeldoe4805 Almost always end up combining dial and hold particularly in active wind. In teams, the spotter and shooter apply calculated correction to scope, then spotter adds small hold corrections as conditions change. It allows rapid adaptation and precision at the same time. As an individual shooter you get the opportunity to combine both jobs.
@@michaeldoe4805 No advantage. It's just a way to enable you to use holds when the magnification doesn't allow you to see the stadia line necessary for your hold, or limits your field of view too much.
Great video once again! I want to point out again that your mechanical offset from your rangefinder zero and your scope zero doesn't change with distance. You are zeroing the rangefinder 3 inches up from your scope zero at 100 yards. 3 inch offset will not change at distance. When you range at distance there is no need to hold 0.8 under the target. The offset will only be 3 inches.
I want to thank you for this video. I saw some of your other ones but this one made me understand MRAD reticle concept. For a week I have been confused from watching other videos and reading content on line. I’m a visual person. Now that I saw what you’re doing it all makes sense. Now I feel comfortable that I understand the basics . Long Range is something I wanted to get into and figuring reading the scope and adjusting it was holding me back. You won me as a subscriber. Please keep up the great work. Look at it this way. You made a video and made a positive impact on someone else.
Unfortunately, most gun channels on YT have become marketing agencies for their sponsors. This is one of the only good channels left on this platform. Thank you for making entertaining & informative content. Definitely deserve more subs. Keep it up!
I would agree, and many barely cut a 10 minute video. Quite a few handed stuff to review and they get maybe a few minutes of review. Demolition ranch lately is the most offending in this. Sure he has millions of subscribers. Did you want a review or a costly shout out?
Typically hold over (when scope reticle allows) until 5-6 mill, anything past that I will dial. Always hold windage, unless of course that one time a year we go way long and typically have to do some windage dialing at that point. Great vid as always.
Holding over VS dialing => just call CAS (homemade drone with special fireworks) I was a holder over guy before this video, I’m still a hold over guy after this video. I’m not shooting past 700yds so the dial due to required higher magnification is not even all that applicable. Great video as always.
Great video again! I also use the ATACR on my Barrett MK22 and love the tremor 3 reticle. As you said though, some people shy away from these reticles because they are either intimidated by them or simply because they are just busy reticles. I think a great video idea would be a tutorial, if you will, on the use and features of the tremor 3 reticle. It offers a lot more than most realize or even need.
Great video and good comparison between the two elevation adjustments systems . i sometimes combine the two systems when i shoot long range with my .308 and dialing the complete distance is not an option due to not enough elevation adjustments on my scope ,for example : i shoot @ 1350 m i dial an +-Mrad less than my max adjustment and adjust the rest with my reticle . So i can still make fine adjustments with my turrets and can use the full mrad intervals of my reticle 👍
Growing up as a kid shooting in the late 70’s through the 80’, dad taught me to shoot irons only while using “Kentucky windage”. So naturally using holds just comes more natural to me vs. dialing. Knowing my ammunition trajectory , and using bcd reticle’s…. It’s almost cheating 😂. Great video. Aloha 🤙🏽 Edit: Just to be clear….. BDC is where it’s at for me.
MOA is around 1 inch more “precise” @ 1000 yards. 1 turret click @ 1000 yards on an minute scope moves the reticle 2.6” vs the mil-radian scope, where 1 click of the turret moves the reticle 3.6” at 1000 yards. They’re ultimately the same. Just different systems of angular measurement. A simple conversion is all it takes to translate between the two.
I noticed your cameras sometimes struggle with overexposure in harsh sunlight. You might want to use an ND filter to remedy this. They have them for all kinds of cameras - gopro, iphone, doesn't matter. Awesome video as always)
Also, once you hit midday with its harsh shadows for a shot looking into the camera, you might throw a bounce down in front of you propped up to take a chunk of of the shadow out of the shot. You could even just use those collapsing reflective windshield shades for a bounce.
Excellent video! For the most part I hold over, as I know mi rifle's dope and I have it on a card. It comes easy for my. I also dial when I'm practicing to keep the skills on point.
Great class , I've watched many of your videos showing the use of hold over and dialing the distances, I've learned ALOT watching you show how its done. I have been using a 1x6x24 Primary Arms ACSS BCD reticle which has been calculated for the user, I'm just now learning this method on a 4x16x50 scope with a 1" MOA . I saw a guy checking his 1" MOA dail with grid target at 100 yards verifying the dail is reading accurately as he cycled through the dail , good way to check your scope. Thank you for the class 🤠
Good stuff as always! Holding elevation and windage is two things to think about... and most times for me? That's one too many. I dial elevation and hold wind. Thanks again for sharing your expertise. Great things to consider.
Love the videos man. As an idea for a video how about a "How to..." series? Kick it off with " how to shoot long range at night". Sort of a 101 style series of videos.
Good stuff. You touch upon the pros and cons which is great for sharing knowledge. I agree with MR Sabong - dial when you have the time hold when you don't. An other pro by dialing may be - pending personel preference and practice - that if your first shot miss it may be easier for you to spot and correct your off-set hold and windage by just dragging the reticle the spotted off-set of impact using the reference from the center of the cross hair and not your initial hold/windage.
good video. I understand more about what people say about moa. Seeing it through the reticles and being shown how to use the system is better than just hearing people talk about it. Then some tell you to go to there site and want you to pay them money to learn the difference. Thanks for this video and generous with your wisdom.
In NRA Long-Range Competition I get the best scores initially dialing for distance and perceived wind. This is the starting zero. Then the first shot is corrected off the shot called right-in-there by dialing windage and elevation controls again. This is called the zero used. From there, wind will be appraised for each shot and favored accordingly in MOA. If shots recorded in my score book begin to show a trend then I will readjust both windage and elevation controls At the end of the match I account for the correct wind favor and then write down the corrected elevation adjustment and windage adjustment controls to a no-wind condition. This technique has resulted in earning the American High Power Rifleman Award in Long-Range.
Love watching your video's I have learned so much I just picked up my mpa ba pmr pro ll in .308 with the Leopold mark 5 with the Tremor 3 reticle. I can't wait to get out to the range and learn the reticle. Thanks again, brother 🙏
This video is great! FFP scopes are essential in my opinion. One other reason for holding over might be a moving target. You might not have time to range and dial, so walking rounds on target might be most effective. Thanks for the video!
Very nice tutorial. I usually practice hold overs because if the situation that I would have to use my rifle arrives, I would not have time to be dialing. If i have time (like hunting, or target shooting beyond 600yds) I will dial.
I just switch over to the new razor GEN three 6 x 36 x 56 for my three Precision Rifles. I love them great Optics I myself dialing for elevation and holding over for wind. It seems to me that is easier to dial the precise elevation come up to a .10 mil holding for wind is not hard for me, but doing both at the same time it seems too much work to keep track of the reticle position on Target, but both worked just the same keep your videos coming good stuff
Great job man... your videos are awesome... I'd say the best on RU-vid... your gear is top shelf so is your information ... keep it up man.. thanks for all your time and hard work making these videos for all of us .
Really enjoyed the video, very useful to newer shooters. There is one major thing you failed to mention though. There are tons of 2nd focal plane scopes being used out there. You must be dialed all the way up on power to make the reticle accurate. This isn't the case with ffp. I bought 3 nightforce sfp scopes myself for hunting and it would cost too much to switch over. This fact is almost never mentioned in videos or by manufacturers. I read about it years ago and it saved lots of bad shots on game. Thanks again for the great video!
Also, I'd like to see a video on indexing targets quickly. Using a red dot to find a target at speed vs using other methods. How about using cant indicators. Which are good and which aren't. How to use them. Why are they important? Most of my long distance applications are in the competition world, so getting on target quickly is important to me. It has crossover applications for hunting varmints etc - getting on a target quickly, ranging and shooting that target quickly, are great skills to develop. Thanks!
Took a couple buddies out to easter wa to try some long range stuff. Had to compress a couple days of LR instruction into maybe ten minutes of instruction. I did all the fancy ballistics work and just dialed elevation and gave a fast run down of wind calling and they were hitting 1100 yards with no issue. They asked about my reticle (h59) and I told them it's a lot easier to dial for elevatio n and hold for wind for a first timer. Worked out pretty good and they had a lot of fun.
Great video! On the 1215 target, what was the elevation if you didn't hold under while ranging? With the parallel zero, you don't need to hold under. My guess is that the dope from the Impact would have been more accurate to the drop you observed. The laser was hitting the ground in front of the target returning a shorter distance. This is minor, but holding under also introduces error into shot angle measured by the Impact 4000.
Love the content. I have the ip 4000. The laser is hitting 3 in over your cross hair from 100 to whatever. 3 in being subjective to laser over scope centerline. What I saw you doing was ranging the ground in front of the target. If I set my reticle on that steel at 1000 and range my laser is 2.75 in above. Good for thought thanks for the vids
Great shooting, content and info mate 👍 Very well shot (pun appropriate) and presented. As someone who has never owned a "dial in elevation" scope, holding over is very natural to me. I appreciate the advantages dialing in at times though, and your explanation of when and why was very clear. Keep it up mate, you are creating excellent content 👌
Great video I like the content you provide. I noticed how you have your rifle mounted on the tripod, I've learned that the closer to the end of the rifle grip you place the pod the less rocking or tee der toddling motion on the midpoint of contact. Still, you make killer hits at the distances you shoot. Thanks for doing this with the holdovers I've been practicing using holdovers when I have time but as you said dail it when you can.
Nice video! I nearly always hold over, I’ve found it’s much quicker when engaging multiple targets. I do you a combination of dialing and holdover when over a mile with certain calibers. I always hold wind, never dial. With the Tremor reticle I hold over so I’m in the tree and can use the wind dots also.
I usually dial elevation and hold windage within reason. There are situations where holding is more appropriate and vice versa, but that is typically what I do.
Loved it. You know, I was watching a guy on another channel Pooh poohing hold overs. He was talking about optic center and how the tree is inaccurate. And I thought I’ve not noticed that on my ATACR, Viper or my NX8
I don't have any scopes with the Christmas tree reticle. But, I appreciate the information on it. I only shoot my 6.5 cm out to about 500 yards during practice. And I won't take a shot past 300 yards on a deer. Just from watching your videos, I can see your hits and the very few misses you have much easier when you dial in. I find the Christmas tree a little distracting for me. I do miss the light on your targets, as that made it really easy to see the shots. Good luck growing the channel!
Great video thanks. I never consider holding over. I see there's reasons. for it made me think. The vortex range finger seems a little cumbersome. Also having to correct 4 distance overboard.
What do you think on a locking turret? My varmint rifles are always in my trucks. 2 have locking one doesn’t. Some way shape or form I always have to check the none locking turret. I would sooner have a locking turret then a zero stop for what I need.
yeah a better way to illustrate your point would have been to time doing all the steel in one go with hold over then repeat with dial - then show the time savings is holding vs the hit percentage with dialing
Great video!... one of the very best I've seen. So thank you for that. I too have an MRAD SMR 6.5 CM. Love it! My scope is a TRACT Toric 34mm ELR 4-25x50 FFP. My ammo is Hornady 140gr ELD Match. I've had this setup for less than one year... so still on somewhat of a learning curve. I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with: First, I was wondering if you use a particular ballistics app you like and would recommend... and secondly, I am looking for a bipod with cant that doesn't move when tightened. I find tension adjustments don't keep the bipod/cant from moving. BTW... so far I like dialing for elevation and holding for wind. Thanks again, and keep up the great work you do.
With relatively steady wind I dial for it then hold over from there. I almost always dial for elevation because I get easily lost in the Christmas tree. Most of my scopes don’t even have a tree, although I’m not saying it’s not effective because it definitely is👍
Howdy. New sub here. I like how you present information. I came across your channel while researching 300 blackout ballistics as that’s a new caliber to me. Long range shooting also interests me, although I’m inexperienced in that discipline. I recently saw a video where an older shooting instructor was pointing out “shortcomings” of the tree style reticle. He stressed it lacks accuracy because it is etched on a curved piece of glass causing the holdovers to not be exactly where you perceive them to be. He did not demonstrate his hypothesis. You certainly don’t seem to have an issue with it. Is this something you’ve heard of? Also, given the possibility of mechanical errors, have you considered dialing past your needed adjustment on the turret and then coming back to it in an effort to mitigate spring tension errors? Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Great video! Question: what is the longest distance that you have been able make hits at? What was the size of your target, gun, scope, and caliber? What is your preferred caliber for ELR?
Great video and content as usual. Appreciate this information. Noticed the tripod you are using. Think it is a BOG. Also believe I saw this system explained on a previous video as you are using an M- Loc attachment but don’t remember exactly what it is. Thanks again for a great video
Another great video. Two questions for you. When you shoot with a tripod, do you find your point of impact changes when you traverse to different targets as the legs are in a different position wrt the rifle, so it recoils a different way? Next one, is that public land you are shooting on? I'm in Europe and I'd like to go over to the US and do a bit of long range shooting there.
Love your videos. I now have more questions though. What is your ballistic app, the chronograph and is it better to shoot 130 ammo or a heavier projectile when shooting out to 1200? I recently purchased a 6.5 CM and want to shoot long distance. Your videos really help me a lot. Thank you.
I agree that with the impact 4000 it is fast to laser and hold over. I also agree that a well rounded rifleman should be proficient at both. You are very good at hold over. I need to practice it more But as a competitive long range shooter I see everyone dial in competition. Although fast it’s less counter intuitive on the clock. Especially with multiple target distances. And your argument that a scope has error just doesn’t hold water these days. Most scopes are 98% tracking. Your NF scopes track perfect. And if you look into reticle calibration they are definitely set to a given distance. So I guess it depends on the situation. Sniper match/ hunting with the laser range finder yeah I can see it.
Why did you choose the 130 rather than the ballistically better 140 grain ELD-X bullet? Or is the velocity increase of 250 fps better for long range? I'm a bit confused.
i was asking myself the same question , but the 130 gave enough splash to see your misses at those distances . Also it is still supersonic at those distances ( but a hand loaded 140gn is that also)
