I tried the zip tie trick and ended up stretching the return spring and the throttle didn’t work anymore so I just shortened the rod and drilled a new hole and gained 17 mph
I just came across a video and I got a question for you. Is it true in necessary to make all these connections? Or can I simply put a piece of mechanics wire or something to hold back the governor arm, intern restricting it? Allowing the natural throttle to keep going? If this is possible that means it's an even easier fix! Spider-Man can I somehow mechanically by either mechanics wire or something hold the governor arm back permanently and allow the throttle to be free-range? Do you think this is feasible? Or doesn't need to all work injunction which may not make sense but I don't know thank you so much
Is this the same, worse, or better than the zip tie method? What are the consequence of doing this? Right now I’m running a stock 200 with only header and get 30 mph I’m gonna try this once I get my stage 1 filter and jet and hopefully get to at least 35 with that.
this is likely better considering zipties are plastic and can melt or fail pretty easily and idk about you but i dont want the governer coming down at full speed bc the zip tie melted
Not removing the governor internals can cause them to fly apart due to the higher rpms. The stock flywheel can also potentially throw the magnet or even fly apart as it isn't designed to rev past 4k rpms. The mod shown is the fastest way to ruin your engine
I'm up here in Canada, we don't have harbour freight or predator engines, we have princess auto and 212cc power fist engine, same thing but the one I have, came with electric start 175$ can. 3 yrs ago, the governor is still hooked up I have it in a stretched beach cruiser bicycle...it does 100km/hr..62-65 mph no problem and then some..lol idk if all of these machines are like mine , but the engine I have is really fast and quick..0-60 in under 3
If you are thinking about doing this READ THIS what the governor does is regulate RPMs so by removing it you are putting a ton of stress on main components and a main problem with that is after a certain amount of RPMs on a stock motor it is normally around 5600 the valve springs start to float and when they do you have no compression and if it persists you'll blow up the motor another high stress component Is the flywheel and the rods I'm definitely not saying don't take your governor out but I'm saying get a governor delete kit they're like 200 include better valve springs and rods and a billet flywheel so the engine can handle it and also don't do the bypass ways take the engine apart and take out the governor itself instead of risking it breaking good luck on your builds
@@kirbylee57 the kit consists of all the bullet parts needed to make removing the governor safe like a billet flywheel heavier valve springs so the engine doesn't bog down under load and billet connecting rod
I got some off Amazon its called the "Brake Master Cylinder Caliper Assembly Left Hydraulic with Disc Brake Rotor Replacement for Roketa Kazuma Taotao SUNL ATV" looks weird when you coppy paste 🤔 i love it but I had to custom weld some brackets for it to mount and I had to fabricate a mount for the rotor but once i got it setup it completely stops the wheel when I let off the throttle and it holds it pretty good at low rpm.
My governor broke or something idk what the problem was but it was messing with my engine and it wouldn't start so I pulled it apart and yanked it out. Ive got mine to 37 mph stock with the governor removed and I still have room on the throttle. I'm just afraid of the flywheel blowing up.
To be honest that's a good idea but a lot of work still, when I bypass a governor I don't need to take anything off, I just put two zip ties through the spring on the governor. And that will stop the governor from moving forward 😁👍 having a good day every1.
@Knifeology i see jay hasn’t responded so i can help you out,on the right side of the bike under the gas tank there is a black spring,if you zip tie that,the spring can’t expand so the governor wont engage
What happens if your riding full speed, the wire comes loose, and causes the governor to activate way over its speed limit? Would the governor just blow up?
Governor arm isn’t very strong. If the wire comes loose it wasn’t tight enough to begin with. Also it would just engine brake if it somehow did come loose.
One question how n the hell do you fit that motor in that frame I have the same motor and frame and all it does is just bang thing and doesn’t want to budge in
I just did it, same frame and everything. You need to grind down the front oil drain bolt. It’s fine you have a rear one anyways no reason for a front one. Also u need to grind down the air box if it’s stock, I have a stage 1 so air filter comes out the side
