Thanks Brian. We will need to take another look at how the (new) Unloader is functioning. We are also considering replacing this pump with the CAT GZ Model. We have shared your comments/assessments with our Pump Mech/Tech guy to ascertain whether he had looked into the areas you mentioned. We suppose this is how learning takes place and competencies are built.
Yes, your comments have been helpful. You have introduced aspects of potential causes of overheating that we need to investigate or at least discuss with our Pump Mech/Tech. We will certainly keep you apprised of how this proceeds.
Thank you for doing these Brian, Pressure washers have given me headaches for years. One more question if you have time. When storing pressure washer for more than a month should I use something like the blue Graco pump fluid I use on my airless paint sprayer?
Storage of your pressure washer only requires winterizing, that requires antifreeze. Now that you mention it, I do not have a video on how to do this. I think I will make one tomorrow. Thanks
Hi Brian. Thank you for your very prompt response and assessment of our pump overheating issue. Appreciated. We installed a brand new external Unloader. Are you saying that this new Unloader may be defective? The old external Unloader was leaking out the top.
So when the thermal dump valve started dumping water did the temperature come down? So if your machine has a thermal dump valve, what you're saying is you still can't rely on the thermal dump valve to keep the pump cool?
@@kevindavidsaver5370 the thermal dump is not 100% reliable. The actual temperature needed to open can vary. Age and build up makes a difference to. But, it is better than nothing. When it opens it allows cooler water in to prevent the temperature getting higher, but it also may already be to late.
Those are most definatly called plungers. I have both plunger and piston style CAT pumps and the piston style has a very different design. Stainless cylinders with a rod with rubber cups as piston rings. Plunger pumps always have ceramic or stainless plungers with high pressure seals.
Really great video, thank you. My thermal dump not only leaked water but popped off. I bought a new one but it still won’t start. I guess I ruined it. Agree or disagree
@@Brian_the_repair_guy hi Brian, I have Ryobi 2700 gas power washer. I was using it on a hot day power washing my brick patio when the thermal dump component popped out and water came rushing out. I shut it down and ordered the part. Approximately 4 days later it arrived I put it in and …nothing wouldn’t and hasn’t started since then
@@mikehall3142 so the engine does not start? The loss of the thermal valve is coincidental to the engine failing to start. If the engine does not start, check oil level to ensure the engine is at the right level. Take a look in the gas tank with a light to see if there is water in the fuel. Replace if it is. Ensure the fuel switch is on. Drain the carb to remove water or trash. If the engine does not start after this, check to make sure you have spark. If spark is good, try a shot of starter fluid. Keep me informed please.
Hi Brian Great videos. You have been really helpful and I’m hoping you can help me more. I’m in the UK and have just spent the last of my savings setting up an exterior cleaning company. I bought a complete business package as it appeared to be the best value. My pressure washer is 21lts per min. (I think that’s about 5.5 gallons per minute US) It’s got an internal unloaded valve with no dump on it which I know is going to cause me problems for the work I’m doing. Is it possible to convert it to an external unloader with bypass so I can return the water back to my tank? I have watched your video where you did it on another machine and it seemed straight forward in theory but the company I bought the unit from is telling me that it cannot be done. Any guidance would be appreciated.
What are the typical "signatures" of "water leakage in the pump"? Is it just overheating? How does this condition cause increase in temperature in the crankcase to such an extent that it melts the Oil Filler Cap? Thanks in advance for the clarifications.
The unloader opens and closes to allow the water to recycle through the machine once the set pressure has been achieved. When the unloader starts to leak, the constant flow of water through the system will heat the pump up. We are talking about a lot of friction. I have seen the pump hot enough to melt the water hose off the pump. I am not saying the unloader is the problem now, but my first thought is the new unloader has failed. It could be caused by debris from the old parts, melted valves. If this was in my shop, even with the new unloader, I would pull all parts out and flush the pump with water. Check all the parts for distortion from the heat. Then install new unloader and replace other bad parts as needed. As I mentioned, had one about a month ago that melted the water hose off the pump. Even with water flowing through the system with the trigger pulled.
Hi Brian, do you have any experience with CAT pressure washer pumps? We own a CAT Pump model 2SFX30GS. It has developed an overheating problem. It overheats after 3 mins run time. Our Pump Tech replaced Valves, Valve seats, Seals, Bearings and Unloader. Can you offer some advice as to why overheating still occurs? The original overheating event melted the Oil Fill Red Cap.
This type of overheating is due to water leakage in the pump. This is usually caused by a bad unloader. The water keeps leaking back to the low pressure side and recycled no stop. I know the unloader was replaced, but I would suggest replacing the unloader completely. At this point with the money you have spent, it may be more cost effective to buy another pump and replace it.
I have a basicly brand new pump Simpson c42 i believe 4400psi every oil change (30-60hours) looks like straight aluminum glitter worse then typical break in oil I’m using the correct oil, never off the gun, and and it only runs hot on the oil side the wet side is always cold I’m worried I got a defective pump with bad Bearing tolerance promoting metal to metal contact not sure what I can do other then run it till it does I’ve contemplated running a thicker oil but worries it will do the same deal
If the pump is under warranty, take it in to a certified shop. If not, flush the crank out and replace oil. Just keep an eye on it and see what happens in 30 hours
@@Brian_the_repair_guypump has 0 warranty engine does but not the pump sadly, and I’m on my 6th oil change every oil change the oil looks the same so not much hope there. I appreciate the advice though
@@Brian_the_repair_guy on my next change I’m probably gonna pull the pump off and take it apart and examine the bearings and crank (I’ve got a torque wrench so I’m not worried about re-assembly)
Good day Brian. A quick question for your comment. In an effort to narrow the location of heat generation (pump header vs pump crankcase) is it possible to operate the crankcase mechanisms with the pump header (inlet/outlet) detached? Have you ever done this before?
You can hand rotate, but I don't think I would try operating the engine at speed. Possible the oil seals could be pushed out. What you can do would be set the machine up with water hose attached and water running freely, no pressure hose. Run the machine and see if you get heat build up. The free flow allows the pump to run, without building pressure, removing the unloader from the equation. If you get tremendous heat build up with a free flow of water, then you could have a crank issue. If there is no heat build, the the problem is in the head/unloader.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thank you Brian. What you have said makes sense and we will pursue those Options. We will continue to keep you updated as we go along. The weather has caused us to pause a bit and will soon resume as the conditions improve.
On a bolt style unloader, how long of a pause (not squeezing the gun) would you consider too long? I used to never let it run longer than a minute, now it's more like 30 seconds.
Really hard to say, too many variables. A minute or so should be ok. Like I said though, too many variables. How cold or hot is the water in the feed hose? Age of the unloader, a leaking unloader will heat the water faster.
Hey Brian! Question, how can you tell if the ceramic pistons broke? Will there be a noise?.. my pressure washer keeps leaking from that valve and I've switched twice in a span of 2 months.. i don't let the pressure washer on though. At most a minute without using it .
I have a Rigid pressure washer. The port where it sucks in soap to output through the spray wand went bad. It was spraying water out that hole under full pressure. I have never used soap with this machine, so I screwed a bolt into that nipple port to stop the leak. Is that going to cause a problem? I ran it with the wand spraying, and it seemed ok.....had plenty of pressure. I shut it down with out letting it run long with no water circulation......It seemed to smell hot. Is that going to do harm to the pump.......maybe I just never noticed a hot odor before. Any help is appreciated!
Plugging the injector port is not an issue. It will not harm the machine. As you stated, you may be more aware of percieved changes because you are expecting a problem.
Do Cat pumps have ceramic pistons? Can you replace a solid (one piece) unloader with a external unloader on CAT 67DX39G11 ? Looks like the unloader and head are all one solid piece. Was hoping to set up a bypass with a 50gal tank.
Not all pumps have ceramic pistons/plungers. Some use machined steel pistons. CAT uses both, depends on the pump you have. You can pull the head off the pump to see and then reinstall the head. Yes, you can switch to an external bypass from a bolt on. It appears the pump you listed does NOT allow for and unloader switch. The unloader is part of the head itself.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thanks Brian, Can you sugesst an affordable pump brand +- 4gpm and unloader capable of external bypass setup. For 13hp honda gx390 for occacional farm use on heavy equipment. I think I would also like to set this rig up for belt drive.
I have watch so many videos, since my power washer works for about 20mins and stops...I believe its my unloaded, because I have put it to Max and even got a vice grip to tighten it more(that was a bad idea as I understand now 😂)...all my vale's are find and chank shaft it find but I have no idea about my unloader
I turn my off but didn't turn the house water of . And wen I turn my pressure washer bk on the thermal relief valve started splashing water everywhere. Wht did I do wrong in my case? Thanks in advance
Teaching is repetition. Preachy comes after repetition of the same thing over time. After 32 years of repairing equipment I have learned that if you don't repeat key points in a preachy manner, people will not remember. I have repaired 10s of thousands of machines and I can unequivocally say, no matter how many times I tell a customer how to prevent a problem, they will be back numerous times with the same problem. Thanks for watching.
