Want me to rate your rig? Be sure to tag us on IG @vertexeffects and use the hashtag #pedalboardprescription for free advice, tips, tricks, and improvements to make to your rig in a future episode.
Objection: Not everyone wants to use a Boost for a volume boost during solos. Most metal guitarists are placing them before drives & crunch channels FOR added saturation. Stop saying it rarely sounds good. Same thing with the Tube Screamer and Big Muff. The TS is the one pedal metal guitarists put before everything in the gain stage (save the Boost). They are tightening their low end & boosting their mids before hitting their fuzz & distortion. Just because it does not work you, it does not mean others haven’t made it work for them. I respect your expertise & thank you for all your advise. I’ve tried it your way & it did not work for me.
Some pretty interesting stuff here. I’ve never heard of anyone putting an overdrive after higher gain pedals, because the way most of the people I know use an overdrive to tighten up the low end and hit the front of their amp harder, but I’d be interested in hearing what it sounds like the other way around. Maybe I’ll throw my SD-1 in my loop one of these days just to see what it does. But all in all this is a really interesting informative video.
Just some foil can solve magnetic field issues. When I was a detective we used it for cellphones to block signals. Couple layers of foil in a pinch does the trick.
Excellent and highly informative video! It's great to have you look at, constructively assess and comment on real world DIY pedal boards. Thank you for posting! 🙏🏻👍🏻🤘🏻
Thanks for the feedback! This board wouldn't have happened if it weren't for your videos and some help you gave me back in 2019 when I first built this layout (without the HX Stomp at the time). The power supply is the Truetone CS-12 but the HX Stomp is powered by it's original power supply connected to an outlet under the board. I've always operated on the low to high gain staging but don't know where I got that from. I think for some of them it's because I wanted to have the drive colored by the higher gain pedal. I will have to experiment with it! In situations where I was running two amps in stereo or one amp one modeled output, I was getting ground hum which the EBTech solved. But I never checked if it affected the signal. Lately I'm mostly running direct so I probably should pull it out and only use it or one of the solutions you suggested if I really need it.
People keep saying how Boss tuners don't have good buffers and I don't get it. When we are watching rig rundowns or other pedalboard breakdown videos. Almost all of them have a Boss tuner as their first pedal. Only a handful of people follow the holy trinity of tone. Why is this?
Most of the pro players aren't versed in electronics. Boss tuners are a standard, most people use them, but don't really know anything about buffer quality. Nor do most technicians really understand electronics principals, impedance, etc.
Hay Mason - thanks for doing this. The tu-12h tuner on my board isn't in my chain though based on your comment, i will look into the Y cable. Also, i have replaced the delay with a Subdecay Echobox until i add a buffer at the end of the chain. re Road Rage buffer - Input Impedance > Greater than 1M Ohm Output Impedance < Lesser than 100 Ohms 9volt DC Neg Pin
@@VertexEffectsInc ti072. and as far as I can tell, its not coloring the tone. a Boss TU2 at the end adds a bit of hiss and imparts a harshness, thus, its gone
Dude, thank you so much for your channel and your videos. They're so helpful and well-thought out and detailed. You've helped me so much, I wish I could do more than like and comment.
The biggest problem that I see is: pedals placed Too Close together (like a jig-saw-puzzle). It's not practical for a Live-performance? When you are singing and trying to: Hit your Tap-tempo for a Solo, or trying to: bypass or engage a pedal. I prefer: a little extra-space, to accommodate my footprint.
In regards to overdrive order. I put a lighter drive prior to my main drive. I have the gain set at zero on the light drive and use it to boost the highs. I find it adds some more clarity to my distortion. does this make sense to you?
Hi Doctor, if I have a Vol+Wah pedal (Valeton EP1 or Hotone Soul press II). Is it OK placing it after overdrives to really control volume instead of gain? or would it create problems with being after input buffer when switching the pedal to "wah" mode. My current signal path is Guitar >> Buffer >> Comp >> OD >> Vol/wah >> time effects
In terms of higher vs lower gain, I use my fx loop to have it both ways. Not really sure about the buffering I'm almost certainly not doing that right. I use a multi effects for whammy and pitch but it sounded horrible before the amp. And useable in the fx loop .The included noise gate works worse now but it sounds better overall and is more useable. I had to get very frustrated before I even bothered trying it lol
It was very educational and insightful just to follow along and experience a perspective of critiquing a rig not based on what pedals sound like or what overall sound or style a player is going for, but rather how they can be optimized regardless of what gets played on them. Not usually the way I think about my board, I definitely picked up some ideas I will test and likely implement. Thanks for this, keep 'em coming please!
This is really cool. Is there a way I can send you my setup for one of these episodes that doesn't involve another social media? The only social media i use is youtube and I have an email address. I'd love to hear your opinion on my rig. I think its pretty cool. If I could improve it in any way, it would be amazing!
I need help. This is what I’m dealing with. I’m getting a brand new Line 6 m5 with a nice midi controller. So my dirt is RC booster, Timmy, Ts9. What would you guys do with all this stuff. I’m thinking less is more.
Just our of curiosity I have a TC Electronic Ditto plus pedal at the end of my signal chain is there a way I can find out what the impedance output reads? Great video! Lots of good information.
I'm definitely interested in booking a private tone consulting soon. With the vacuum tube shortage, I have narrowed tube amp purchases to tube amps that I REALLY ACTUALLY want, making more of a focus on pedalboards.
Excellent idea to critique boards this way. Real practical advice, great professional insights. I learned a great deal from this one video. You filled a niche that has needed to be filled for a long time. Well done.
Nice video. I recently found that less is more. Better to have a few pedals that do one or two things well than multiple pedals. Recent board is only 4 pedals and so happy with it. Wanting to acquire more pedals has not made me happier. (Still have all my other pedals boards with 6-9 pedals tho.) :)
Mason what do you think of using a Radial J48 Stereo as dual buffer? I habe it as first and last part of my signal chain for recording, and to my understanding a DI box is i.e. a buffer with an XLR out, but I might be totally off track here and your input is much appreciated.
Thanks for the rating, Mason! I do use the Spark as an added “gain stage” for the Dude and BD, for some extra thickness. Cables are definitely a priority for me next. Power supply is a Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2 Plus. 😊
Mason, I’m building a rug for myself and am probably going to pay for that $149.00 rig overview on your site. In doing that, I’m hoping you look at my current pedals, recommend ones I want to replicate a tone I’m after, and help with routing my cables. Are those the things that ARE covered in the hour long session? Please reply if you can. Much appreciated!
We can take the conversation any way you want it. I provide detailed lists of anything you need based on our conversation and email them to you at the end of the call so you have all the links and resources you need to move forward.
@@VertexEffectsInc perfect! I emailed the rig doctor and Jacob replied to me. I’m gonna write some questions down and get that Tone Consultation. I have all five EVH pedals and am then in search of Metallica’s black album Hetfield tone, along with variations of levels of distortion, chorus, delay, etc. Anyways, I’ll be in touch in a couple:few weeks! Thanks!
@@bobflemming100 The first two definitions for "professional" aka "pro" that came up on my Google search were (1) taking part in an activity in order to make money and (2) someone who accepts money in exchange for provided good and/or service. If I get paid to make pedalboards, am I not a professional by that metric? It's not necessarily qualitative - or how skilled I might or might not be. Secondly, I have a team that makes our titles, thumbnails, and edits our videos based on metrics and what's most likely to be viewed, and while I have built pedalboards as a profession, I didn't come up with this title myself. It seems to me like your comment isn't in the spirit of the video nor what it's attempting to do. If you have a suggested title that you think is more appropriate, feel free to be part of the solution :)
Is there something like a video about Pedalboard basics? I have no clue why the impedances affect the sound or what role they play at all. I need some kind of Introduction. Can anyone recommend something?
To put it simply, low impedance outputs have enough current available to maintain signal fidelity. High impedance inputs have enough resistance that they draw a negligible amount of current from the source so as not to load the guitar pickups or form audio filters. The reason loading the guitar pickups affects the tone rather than only attenuating is that they're inductive sources (along with the capacitive tone controls), reactive elements. this means that their impedance is different depending on the frequency, and through an input impedance too small, they create a low pass filter that rolls off your highs, making your tone sound dead. It's like rolling back the tone knob and seizing it in place. You always want your input impedance to be at least an order of magnitude greater than the maximum output impedance of your guitar. Usually, inputs have about 1MΩ impedance; more than enough for most guitars to handle. You also want your output impedance to be pretty low so it's robust enough to maintain fidelity over long runs of cable, which has capacitance. An impedance too high here will make a low pass filter in the audible range, having the same affect as having an input impedance too low. In general for audio, you always want high input impedance, and low output impedance. But this is usually the case for audio exclusively. Don't worry about impedance matching. If you want to know about the theory behind audio filters for a better understanding of why impedance matters, do some research on reactance and RC and RL filters.
So so helpful! I've applied a few of your tips on my board and I hear a noticeable improvement. The best part is that I didn't have to buy anything. I just had to rearrange some stuff ;) One question I have is... at what point do you recommend using a looper switcher?
It can, the Pedal Power 2 is the least problematic because the case is steel, but the other versions of the Pedal Power are aluminum which doesn't offer any shielding for electromagnetic fields.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks! I'm looking at putting the Tim Pierce Overdrive by Rockett Pedals as the last thing in my chain, but I unfortunately wasn't able to find out what the output impedance is. I'll probably just get a TC Electronic Bonafide Buffer to put on the end just to be safe.
I use a Morley Hum Eliminator on my dual piezo/pickup acoustic rig... I haven't noticed any artifacts? The only thing I noticed is it takes the hum out of my signal chain, maybe it works different for other set ups, but I have no complaints.
Something you said early in the video made me think. (and you may answer what I am about to ask later, apologies if you do. Haven't finished the video yet) - but when a pedal is on, it's buffered (as you know. I am just thinking out loud), and in another video you mentioned there is some flexibility with the output impedance, as opposed to the input. 100 is ideal but the lower the number, the better. So the question is: does the pedal need to "be"/have a dedicated buffer if it's an always on pedal? You pretty much said as much around the 8 minute mark, but I wanted to make sure I didn't misunderstand that. (as long as the output impedance isn't something super high, of course)
And a few minutes later, you did pretty much confirm that haha (you mentioned that a pedal could function as a buffer if always on, which of course makes sense) Thanks for all the helpful content you put out!
@vertex effects M2! missed you for quite a while Doc (my bad 😔) I’ve added this vid to my pedal board layout playlist (much populated by Vertex vids of course!) Final order from Brad at BTPA has arrived, workshop bench almost done. Holding off on pedal board until all the MkII boards etc are released but layout can begin as can cable assembly. As usual my friend best wishes from Sonoma County
Hi Mason! I have a quick question. I'm running a Big Sky into my Vox Custom AC30CH. I just discovered the Cab filter on the Big Sky. It says in the manual that it's for running direct. I tried it running through the AC30 and it really cleaned up and clarified the sound of everything running before the Big Sky especially the BE-OD. Is it hurting anything by running the Big Sky with the Cab Filter switch on while running into an Amp? It definitely sounds better with it on to my ear.
Hi Mason, what are your thoughts on the Polytune 3 internal buffer? Do you consider it to be a good buffer? I run 8 pedals on my board, with the Polytune 3 being first in the signal chain. All my other pedals claim to be true bypass. Is having the Bonafide buffer at the front of my board enough buffering for this size pedal board?
Bro, i am using a hx stomp in the fx loop of a tube amp. Will i get better with a analog pedal in the start and end of the chain, cause the buffer? I was thinking using a overdrive and a tuner. One in the start and other in the end of the chain. I am thinking correctly? Recomendations? Thanks in advance.
As far as I know you don’t have this issue with digital devices like the helix etc., so no buffer needed. Same if you use the helix fx loop unless you have an extremely long chain. Essentially you want to avoid signal degradation. Ironically adding your buffered pedals to either side of your helix adds to the number of devices your signal flows through. You probably won’t notice any real difference and you might consider that your also adding more “fail points”… the less extravagant the setup the less likely something goes wrong. Just yesterday I played a gig, and when I went to hit the first note, nothing came out. Rather than troubleshoot during the song I shoved my pedals aside and went straight in to my amp. I was able to get through the set but my point is when things fail, they always fail in front of an audience. If you’ve only got 1 device, it’s easier to diagnose on the fly. I think personally I’m going BACK to my headrush pedalboard for this very reason. Good luck with your setup!
Here’s some food for thought as far as overdrive order. As a metal /hard rock player it does make a lot of sense to put a tube screamer / sd1 style overdrive in front of a distortion pedal to tighten up the low end and give it more attack using it as a clean boost in the classic gain at 0 and level at 10 setting. I think that’s why you see a lot of people putting them before distortion or even more neutral sounding overdrives. Of course it sounds pretty bad if you’re actually using it for gain before something that’s already higher gain but I feel most people who are putting it before another drive pedal aren’t really doing that. Just an observation!
Hi Mason would like to talk with you about redoing my board after my last tour it's not doing well and need a rebuilt. Please let me know if you could take this job. Whatever info needed i can furnished. Thankyou Jimmy
Hey Mason. great and very helpful as always!! where does a Cali76 compressor go in the chain?? i was told at the very end, BUT before the reverb. so, mine is: LolaFUZZ>OCD>TUBESCREAMER>StrymonElCapDELAY>CALI76>Fender63REVERB>DITTOlooper. Is that correct? perhaps you could talk about compressors a bit more in general. thanks!
Good question! After the effects you are compressing everything before it, if you you were to put it first in the chain you would add effects to the compressed guitar signal.
@@spectramorphical well if you think of an 1176 it would never be on a board at all. It's after the mic, sooo...after drives would be more ordinary of how you'd hear it in a studio recording.
Mason, could i send you pedals and board and have you set it up for me? I’m trying to run things stereo with two amps with some strymons and an ab switch to turn off an amp. I’m running an ac30 and my main is a jcm900. I love the OD on my JCM and I’d like it to run on both amps if possible. I had something set up through my effects loop on the jcm to get what i wanted, but i got way too much hum. Tried a mesa AB with phase and ground control and also tried a hum X, but nothing helped. Not sure what I’m doing. There’s just way too many ways to wire things that I’m going crazy.
Take a look at the Orange Amp Detonator. It is a buffered ABY box that has a control to bring the amps back in phase if necessary. I do not have it but it’s on my list for when I go wet/dry soon.
Vertex probably makes something that would do the same thing tho. I’m planning on splitting my signal at the end of the chain just before the amp, running one into a 15 watt tube Stage Right cheapie but with a Celestion G12-65, and the other to my 20 watt tube Hughes & Kettner combo which will have all my wet stuff in the effects loop (chorus, phaser, tremolo, delay, and Reverb)
@@phunkyjunkee I just picked up a mesa ABY with all the fixin’s. I think I got my problems solved. There’s just no way to have a good signal running my Marshall distortion through my ac30 and using the fx loop. It killed me because my amp sounds friggin amazing so I invested in a jcm 800/900 yep pedal from Venezuela; the PAL800-v3. It won’t be here till mid January but the reviews and video gave me a chubby. Hoping it’s a good replacement. I’ve got a zillion OD pedals but my mod.ed jcm900 is the nicest OD I’ve ever heard
Thanks for the video! In your opinion does every rig need buffers (even if it’s a small 3-4 pedal rig)? If not, how do you determine if you need a buffer in a small rig?
If it's the small rig (3 or 4) then you most probably dont need a buffer. Best way to determine if you need is a buffer: 1) play something through the whole pedalboard while all the pedals are off (clean signal) and record that 2) play the same thing straight into an amp and record 3) compare both recods, and if you hear that you are missing some of the high frequencies when going through the pedals - then you need a buffer
Typically the number of pedals don't matter that much. Even if you have 3-4 pedals your guitar still has passive pickups from the most part that have to drive the input cable and a long cable after the pedalboard back to the amp. Those things don't change much no matter what pedals you have. On the pedalboard, for the most part, you're in a low impedance environment relative to what comes before the pedalboard because any pedal "on", true bypass or not, is buffering. So I would say, yes this rule applies irrespective of the size of the pedalboard, even if it's a few pedals.
@vertex effects do you have a recommendation for an output buffer on a bass rig? Would a TC bonafide do? I know you recommended the Peterson tuner as a bass rig input buffer…
I'm sure they're OK if you have a buffered environment with quality low impedance signals feeding them. I use Mogami 2314 and Squareplugs for my stuff, we also sell it through Sweetwater pre-made and on www.therigdr.com in custom lengths.
@@VertexEffectsInc thanx a lot. You take your time to answer our questions. You are a man dedicated to his passion. Quality is not a minor issue for you. Thanks again.
I’d be interested to see the difference between a soldered cable vs something mechanically coupled like George L or D’Addario. Electrically they should be equal, barring a cold solder joint or a incomplete penetration of the jacket for the ground in the case of the mechanical route.
differentiating between a gas tight fitting mechanical connection and a proper soldered connection means a cross sectional comparison. And even if it’s not gas tight, tin has about 15% the conductivity of copper, so I’d almost wonder if it balanced out whatever increase in resistance you’d see (I don’t even know if my fluke would show a difference in either) with a non-uniform mechanical connection.
@@jacobholmes6201 if it's not a gas tight connection, or even if soldered starts as a gas tight connection the issue on solderless, in use, becomes corrosion and oxidation, again because the center conductor isn't gas tight and in most cases the shield is just floating and relying on contact with the housing for the ground. Also on a lot of the solid core versions of solderless you'll see the copper deform and then loose it's contact or cold flow. The quality of the solderless stuff in our industry is nowhere near where it is in most others, often cold welding the connections via calibrated crimping tools. Our stuff is so primitive by comparison for guitar cables. For this reason you never see pro rig builders use solderless, it can't be as predicable or bulletproof, and you never see solderless cables with a lifetime warranty either.
@@VertexEffectsInc ahhh brilliant. I appreciate your patience in humoring me on this one. Just some stuff I’d never thought about until I saw this vid and got me wondering. Thank you!
Man I really like this new buffer but I don’t like the fact you have to route the cables all the way back to the buffer. I wish it were more like the EHX Silencer where you have route back just one cable if you’re using FX loop but can route straight thru and to the amp after that.
@@VertexEffectsInc hey man, I saw the whole video so it’s your buffer here, they’re both the same. I saw your other video where you explained how buffers work which really helped me out since I run a big rig, sometimes with FX loop. There’s no practical way to just have the output be on the end of the board which I am aware of, I just wish we’d be able to just run 1 cable back to the buffer here instead of running a few back is all. I saw the video in my feed here and couldn’t click fast enough to watch it since I was so close to getting two TC Bonafide buffers to use at the beginning of my board and end. I’ll keep thinking about it.
@@XxStonedImmaculatexX If you have an amp with an FX Loop you're gonna need three connections to the pedalboard, plus the guitar, no way around that. Not sure what the alternative would be?
@@VertexEffectsInc Yea I usually use either the 4 cable method or an EHX silencer is the amp I'm using doesnt have fx loop. The alternative is to use a buffer built like the one you just rolled out here. I'll used PedalPlaygound to mess around with the configuration. I can always add your new buffer pedal manually (size) there as well.
You guys need to get your distributors in line. I ordered an AC module from Sweetwater a month ago, and it STILL says "awaiting Items". Cancelled, I built it myself. If I cant get a $24 dollar module, I'm sure not going to order a $400 board....
That was our fault. We'd be waiting on parts for the AC modules for almost three months before they arrived. That's not Sweetwater's fault - that's us and supply chain challenges.
Question: I’m thinking abt starting a new pedal board using a TC Electronic Hall of Fame V2 as an output buffer. Should I still be on the lookout for not decking my pedal board with True Bypass pedals? Love the videos, learned so much!!
Mason, I'm using an old school Boss PSM-5 power supply. I never thought about the buffers. Does the PSM-5 do the job of buffers? It's very quiet and I have no problems with it.
I like to put phaser and univibe between distortions. i have it after distortion and fuzz (ds1, fuzz face etc) but before any overdrive or boost pedals (bd-2, spark boost etc) whenever I like it before overdrive, but with fuzz and high gain distortion, i like to boost the fuzz as well with the overdrive placed after. so it might go fuzz-univibe-drive with all 3 being on. the fuzz set really high gain and the drive set to be really light edge of breakup. I find if i have vibe or phaser after high gain into a completeley clean amp/no drive, it gets this chewy smooth sound which i personally don't like and sounds like nails on chalkboard. the drive after the vibe/phaser adds a nice bit of breakup that gets rid of that alternatively an edge of breakup amp works well too
What's wrong with trying to improve and learn new things? That's the fundament of almost any hobby, regardless of the level. And it does definitely matter, it matters to the enjoyment of the players that use these rigs, and also the people that watch this video that can also use the information. As cardbored_ said, you sound miserable.