Thank you - my dad showed me how to do this with a coping saw and I couldn't remember the trick (turning the wood 90 deg). Since I don't have that saw, I performed your method with my wife holding a hand-held belt sander sideways for me 🙂 It's really brilliant!
Nicely done, I'm sure it took a long time to figure this out. I wish you would have shown the installed project for reference. I will use this on my vaulted ceiling to tongue and groove. Well done!
It’s a nice way to do a cope especially if you’re working on shoe moulding like this. Some of my install videos have me installing the shoe moulding using this technique. Maybe check one out.
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore you know you've made it to adulthood where this is a moment of great satisfaction. Just saying. Well explained, great info.
I bought a house in Pensacola that was built in 1949 and has the same shoe molding cut the same way and I couldn’t figure out how they did it I wonder if they used the same method as you?
That house sounds pretty cool. I’m sure that the method they used was similar Or maybe a coping saw which I think is more common. Just maybe not original to the house. I wonder if this type of moulding was used back then. Thanks for leaving A comment.
Depending on the profile. Some mouldings have intricate profiles that may not be possible to get into with a round sanding drum. For those times I use different methods. Belt sander, grinder, files. Try one and be see how the profile sands. I do have a belt attachment for this sander but I find my go to for hand scribing on site is my trim belt sander. I’m sure you’ll find many of my videos where I show scribing or certain jobs. Fitting counters etc. check those out to see how I scribe different things.
Thanks for asking. I’d say that a rotary tool wouldn’t be my first choice to get this job done. But if it was all I had, I’d try it. A regular belt sander is great too. I use one all the time on the job site.
For what it's worth, that's what I'm using. I use the dremel when coping the molding, and with the different attachments is SOOOO much easier than a coping saw, which is a revolting, useless tool (IMO). HUGE salute to the pro's who must've spent God-knows how many hours learning how to cope with a coping saw. But, I digress.... I'm smack in the middle of laying LVP, molding, and coping throughout my entire upstairs. I'll Cut a 45, the back cut it at 30, then the dremel for about literally 20sec, to get the general shape, then to get that perfect curvature, I put 150 grit adhesive sand paper on a spare piece of coping to fine "tune' it, to get that curve perfect. And, like coping a regular piece of molding, it's just the edge making contact that is the most important. Hopefully, all that made sense. In short, YES! The Dremel was much, much easier, in my experience.👍
The thing is, as I sand I move the piece a bit and I think a guide might prohibit that. But seriously though, I did this with 1 hand while videotaping. That’s a feat in itself. Lol. It’s much quicker with two hands.
Why raise it up just put a quarter inch or half inch spacer right next to the drum so you just running quarter round with the end against the drum quarter inch higher than the opposite end.. you'll get even better more accurate copes because there's no free lifting..
@@davidbryanwoodworksandmore Not practical for the average person. Who's gonna have that on a job. Another carpenter only. Not me or anyone I know. We are going to have a coping saw and file. Great idea though!
@@paulgingo7163 watch this video. How To Cope Base Moulding Using a Drill and Belt Sander- Simple but Great Results!!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Slj21KDM6oI.html
