This is absolute perfection. Pure master joiner at work. Served my time from 1979 as a bench, woodmachine and site joiner. What you do is another level. You are now my go too channel.
I've used this kind of cutter for cabinet corners and for making rectangular columns. Once you have them set up (I recommend keeping an offcut and using that to check the setup if you use standard thicknesses of material) they're easy to get going. Depending on the wood, you can also burnish the outside corners to keep that joint invisible even after sanding.
Cheers Pete, yeah, now i have a decent technique for the setup, it seemed to go swimmingly! Everyone is really impressed with the joint, and over such a long length i admit i'm quite impressed.
@@jimc4731 True. Many have been using them on router tables. But I can tell you from personal experience that the difference between doing this with a router bit vs a big shaper head is night and day. Definitely smoother on the shaper in my experience, and the power feed helps keep everything pressed down and lined up.
@@BradshawJoinery I just watched your Container Re Fit Absolutely Awesome the Care You take Doing your own work , just great to see a Master Craftsman taking that much care on his own projects , Just subscribed a new Fan from Perth Australia
I love this cutter. Thanks for the demonstration. I must say you are brave man using your gloved hands to face your material. I use sticky foam faced paddles now. I have faced thousands of feet on a beast of machine a 16” Oliver. That’s when I is was young and full of it. A man I worked with had a kick back and his left forward hand was drug back into the blade . The Jointer had no remorse it’s just a machine. As we all no a fraction of a second. Four fingers gone down to the palm and half his thumb. I’ve heard it said “that a smart man learns from his mistakes and a wise man learns from others mistakes” I love your work. And your videos are very helpful. Old dog loving new tricks
Cheers Louis! I have always tried to portray that its not always about how it looks on camera, if my hands are somewhere i know may be hazardous, i hold a changed balance and dont fully lean into the cut so that if the timber were to instantly dissapear i wuldnt fall into it!
I am a finish carpenter in the States ; what you are in the UK ; and no matter a pro is a pro! That is pro work ! Bottom line you get what you pay for! And that’s the best money can buy!
I also believe that using technology to achieve such perfection is in harmony with a craftsman's necessary ultimate focus on the end result rather than the journey toward it. Let's not forget though that you should take all the credit to harness that power perfectly ! Congrats !
Thankyou Jean-pierre, your a gent! Its always been a combination of great machinery and great craftsmanship. Both on their own, work well, but combined and its another level!
Thanks for the education on adjusting the tooling. I used a miter bit on some 12 replica air gun boxes from England in walnut. and had the devil of a time adjusting the edge. Doing a newel post in oak now and will revisit that lock miter tooling. Or might go with the oak on the big saw and Lamello plates to align.
Freeborn makes a cutter that works in conjunction with a dado setup on a table saw. All the pieces run flat through the shaper cutter...then half of them run flat over the dado to make the interlock. When working with large stock.....the big advantage of this system is all the pieces run through the machines on the flat which is much easier than making a vertical pass on the shaper which is harder to control. Disadvantage is obviously the 2 setups. Just an FYI for anyone who works large stock. Beautiful shop...Nice finished product!
Really smart technique using the level line as the standard to measure from. I never do that, and always have a hard time getting things like outlets in exactly the right spot. I'm going to try this now.
Cheers Pete, Yes i dont do any fitting without a laser and have discovered many many techniques im yet to see anyone else use. Ill do a video at some point and also recommendation on laser type.
@@BradshawJoinery That would be great, thank you. I have a decent laser, but I've only ever used it for things like making sure drop ceilings or chair rail are level and vertical bits are plumb. Never thought to measure to it.
I do a lot of work in Germany and Scandinavian and all joiners/fitters use lasers. I don’t see why they are used so little here as such a useful bit of kit. I have a Geo-fennel and have found so many uses for it.
Great bit of kit this cutter we have one in are workshop for some time now l have used it with mdf 18mm plywood hardwood softwood and if you get it right like you said it’s perfect but two things I do is use a feather board and for quick set up l have two bits l have already cut in 18mm mdf which I keep next to are spindle mouldy so you can set your cutter up quickly l love this cutter great job sir well done 👍 last thing if you sand it just a little on the corners you can’t see the joint it’s that good 👍 😊
Nice one Simon, I had first seen it as an apprentice but its taken me a long time to get to a point where i needed/could buy it! I think this one is slightly better than the one we had, the joint is perfect!
For a split second, I thought this was about boxing… then my brain kicked in. Either way, this was a very interesting video and the Trend cutter block looks superb. I use Trend cutter blocks in work and I may have to recommend this one to them. We just made some faux walnut posts for a kitchen we were making, so this would speed things up no end. Keep up the great work!
Saw the router cutter advertised some time ago. I intend to get a router table of some sort just so I can get one of these cutters! Seems like the perfect way of making boxes, or cabinets!
I've used them for a few years on various jobs including cladding existing staircase Newel Posts and cut strings. I've also done new staircase newel posts where they are 5"+ square. I've also made bed posts the same way with a softwood/tulipwood core for stability. It's a really good system with the benefit of only needing to clamp in one direction. As always nice video Oliver. Leitz tooling do some great blocks.
Cheers Adrian, yeah great cutter block! They had one where i did my apprenticeship but it never really got used and was many years ago.... and wasnt high on my tools to buy list, but wish i had to be honest! haha Leits are anther top quality brand, i dont think i own any, deffo got some leitz cutters in the shop. My most overengineered block has to be the oertli (sp) That sure is some unit! Have you ever had a joint open up with the cutter block? assume your using a cascamite or runny glue?
@@BradshawJoinery Hi Oliver, I've used the system a fair few times now and usedcascamite and PU. Not had any issues with joints opening up. I did some newel posts caps in ash with American black walnut core about 3yrs ago and no problems so even mixing species seems fine. Regards Adrian
That spindle moulder, auto feed and the mitre lock bit are a game changer! I've considered buying the router version mitre lock but have concerns about accuracy on a touter table. Brilliant work as usual!
Honestly just planing to make a 3x sided fake beam to slip on the end of a stud wall to look like a large post is there… and I was trying a few test cuts to try and clamp up in place, not happy with the finish at all… You just saved the day with this !!!
@@BradshawJoinery Using Hitachi M 12 in router table,found it quite easy,once I got my head around it, & it took a couple of trial runs to get depth right, same problems as you had. Infinity Tools actually do a lock mitre jigs to make set up easy, but they are not cheap to buy.
Really satisfying watching that all come together, excellent craftsmanship. Scraping the glue off so AMSR. Well presented video too, thanks for sharing.
That sir is amazing work!.. most likely made easier with the cutter but the knowledge you have is incredible, I’m sure you would have gotten the same result without the cutter!
I believe it was Gustav Stickley that started doing table legs using a locked-miter to insure a vertical grain on all sides. I have used this for years doing furniture.
The joinery is particularly good and I like the jointing created with the Trend router. The actual installation does concern me in that the steelwork ought to be fire protected as an element of structure that could have been applied under the casing and the cables ought to have been protected with sheathing or conduit to prevent accidental damage later on, as well as closely defining the route of the cables. A longer than necessary screw through the face could see the cables punctured with shocking results!
Thankyou Clive. The steelwork was specified fire protection, so a fire paint was used before fitting. Cables, well i guess thats the same with any buried service, i doubt you'd even feel capping screwing through oak...
@@BradshawJoinery The fire protection and the electrical protection is clearly not within your remit but unfortunately others less knowledgeable watch these videos and see all the peripheral work. I have specified and inspected too many installations with intumescent paint and to me the steelwork looks as though it only has a primer coat. (most intumescent paint tends to be white). The electrician is responsible for the sheathing on the cables and the protection is normally for where a pilot hole is drilled for a fixing (I wouldn't screw directly into oak or any hardwood without one). With the drilling, unless you are being completely ham-fisted you will feel the drill go through the wood and then feel a secondary resistance if its sheathed, if not then there will be a bang! and the whole casing will need to be stripped off to repair the cable. A top class job will use steel conduit for protection and potential future rewiring.
I‘d add a warning for those thinking of buying either the shaper or router versions - I have both. I find the setup on both much harder than in this video. You have to get both the cutter height and fence correct, and changing one means you have to adjust the other. I don‘t have a digital readout on my Hammer combi machine, but am buying one in the hope that this will help. The second problem is shaping sheet goods (eg plywood) with the top veneer as cross grain. Along the grain the cuts are excellent, but across the grain so much tearout as to make it unusable. Solutions to this problem for cabinets are a) make sure that all miter joints are along the grain or b) score the top veneer before shaping. I haven‘t used either on solid wood yet. When everything works, they are an excellent solution.
Hi Bill, an easy solution for finding the ecact centre is align the centre bevel of the tooth with the bed as shown, then use a Cheap DTI Indicator to raise the cutter, no need for a DRO. Then any adjustments will be to the fence and not height. Hope that helps, and thanks for your help. Ive never tried on cross grain, i assume not machining the outer veneer past half its thickness would provide enough support not to break it out>
Look for a tool called a thingamajig scribing tool. Super sharp carbide cutter will quickly and accurately score your cross grain cuts, eliminating tear out.
Nice tool, great attention to detail and skilled execution. On a side note, it really makes my skin crawl when I see wires without any conduit running underneath wood. It's required in my country to use plastic, self-extinguishing conduit in such cases.
@@BradshawJoinery no sorry, you misunderstood me. The houses we build are all brand new and high end on the lakes in the area. There what you call vaulted ceiling’s. I live in an area called muskoka in Canada. If you Google the area you will see the multi million dollar cottages and boathouses we build there
Very nice job. But l have been using locking miter joints for about 15 years. Mostly on furniture, like when I'm using 1/4 sawn oak and see it on all sides.
Great video as always buddy ! I do miss my days in the workshop ! Hoping to build a workshop this year so I can get back to joinery over just carpentry !
looks great fella and a good match to the windows and doors to. one thing i would mention though would be your use of expanding foam over or around cables, the standard expanding foam can degrade the insulation of the cables so we are no longer allowed to use it on the sites i work at and have to use the fire rated foam instead as it does not have the same effect on the insulation of cables. also on the jigsaw note i have a festool demo booked soon and if you dont mind i may show them the video which may i turn help them fix the issue and i can replace my worn out makita jigsaw or i buy a Mafell
Cheers Ross, not something i was aware of tbh so thanks for that. Not sure festool will admit a problem with the jigsaw on the demo, but have a close look at the blade and see if there is any loose movement forwards and backwards (unsprung). I bet there isnt in the demo one.
@@BradshawJoinery no worries buddy, It seems quick a few people are unaware of this issue and i only found out 4 or 5 years back when i was no longer allowed to use it on site as the company had issue with past project electrics which was out down to expanding foam degrading cable insulation. No your probably right on that one as i tried to give them my thoughts on the RO150 which i think is to slow in rotex mode and could do with a few more ponies. It would have been a good sander if it was rotary and rotex only. i shall make sure to check it on the demo model as then at least i can use the fact the demo model never had that much play if the bought one turns up bad
At the very start I could have sworn you said 'baked beans' then realised you said 'fake beams' ... (my hearing's not what it used to be). Great job as usual, Ollie. 👍
Yes very professional job 👍 you went the long way round to do the job properly and the laser way to measure above and below when fitting is the pro way. Some site Joiners would have made a mess of fitting that after getting it so perfect in the shop, they would have nailed it with the nail gun 😄 Did you test the strength of the joint from the off cuts? The glue surface would be double that of a mitre. Thanks for sharing, watch with a beer 👍🔨📐😄
Cheers Gary! Yeah a few pins were my go to if the glue wasnt enough but didnt really want to break the surface finish. They are way stronger than the wood. It always breaks across the board near the joint when tensioned so im confident in the joint! Hope you enjoyed the beer, not seen any uploads from you in a while mate. I find your videos brilliantly peaceful. You work in a nice spot!
Yes and no, easily paid for in one job, with the cost of timber at the minute. say 70mm square posts for a kitchen, can use thin stock material for a chunky post.
@@BradshawJoinery Good tools will never let you down....But todays timber quality will !!!! It seems to be shit. A friend of mine only uses reclaimed timber as its so much nicer and stable etc
brilliant job, they are good cutters, mine has rotatable cutters that can be replaced once worn, I hate to play devils advocate but i continue to see joiners working with gloves, please for the love of your fingers and hand, don't wear gloves when using wood working machinery, I have been a joiner for 30 years and have seen too many fingers and hands lost to machines because of gloves, what could be a small nick or cut turns into disaster once a sharp spinning object get a hold of the glove and pulls it in. brilliant job though, sorry to heave added the glove part but you only get 8 fingers and 2 thumbs in your life time at this point. love your work
Fantastic ability. If you read this, would you please educate me as to what kind of adhesive you were using? It looked like silicone which I have never seen used if this application, but it certainly was perfect. I also have been trying to find a tape ruler of that minimalist type to no avail here in the US. Thank you for the video.
Cheers Luke, yes thats a good method, make sure you undercut the mitre by 0.5 degree so to clamps tight at the corner all way round. The idea of the cutter though is the glue surface area and the fact you can clamp it across the face (easy) rather than across the mitre (hard)
That worked out well - how do you think would it compare if a lamello was used for the same job ? Say using tenso connectors with titebond type glue - I have the lamello but not the cutter head so your thoughts please! Thanks for the videos looking forward to the next
Great ideaHi David, I dont own, nor have ever used the lamello, so im in the same boat as you albeit t'ther way round. Id say this is going to be a lot stronger than any straight mitre joint, and a more professional job. The lamello would be better suited to if you came across the job on site and needed a solution? I guess also the lamello you have to machine both a really accurate mitre and then machine the lamello connectors (assuming you mean using them on an angle to match)
@@BradshawJoinery thanks for sharing your opinion - yes I normally use it for onsite fixes when it’s not practical/ possible to leave something in clamps . Definitely agree lock mitre glued as you did is stronger. 👍
Great video as usual just the way you explain the little things, like small blocks wood here to do this & that & improvisation when needed. Can I ask about the foam you used is it different to that awful brown insulation stuff as a sparky I know has his doubts about that stuff being used next to electric cables, there a couple of Screwfix forums about it
Cheers Pete, admin error I had literally forgotten to click the button 👍 UnjustifiedRecs it's legal responsibility to advise on RU-vid when a video is being influenced. 👍
Fantastic work as usual I noticed some technical printouts taped around the job I was wondering what software you use ,I’m quite old school and draw my plans on the drawing board but toying with fusion ( the kids use it at school 😳) or sketch up
Hi Chris, thankyou, you will get on well with either, fusion will set you up better if you ever plan to go CNC route, but SketchUp I find really good for what I do. The layout program is brilliant
im tempted to get the router version. is that accoya on your bench at the start? i have some and wonder how you remove the stained discoloration without taking too much of the board thickness?, i presume its from the acetalyzing process they use on it.
Hi mate, yeah its accoya. you cant, what size you using? Generally buy 1/2" more and plane it back if you need stained without stipes. Or if its boarding, say 18mm, id buy 2" and deep cut it down themiddle then use the centre part as the best face. Its from the sticks and the processes, heat and then damp both kilning and treating, it goes through the mill a bit!
@@BradshawJoinery I thought so, had a load for a job but leftover boards are 18 mm, I'll try planing down to half inch n see if can get away with it, I find it very variable, some is clear and some heavily stained. Very few knots though and it's really stable, cheers
Great. Ta. Would you use that laser line technique similar to marking socket positions, on say a bottom kitchen unit, or living room alcove unit, where you have to cut out the back for pipes or a socket? Do you think that PU glue would be ideal for a gate to a back yard? I am in no rush to fix/make my gate, just wondering about the glue/ Cheers
In short, yes and yes. 👍 Pu glue is the best for external as it's incredibly strong but also a degree of flexibility allowing it to hold on even with some movement Laser snc be used in all sorts of ways and yeah would definitely use it for that
Great video and excellent result. I’ve been using a tracksaw and mitring at just over 45 degrees, using tape for clamps, as demonstrated by Richard at honest carpenter, which does give excellent results on veneered mdf. I wonder if having to leave the extra half mm or so for support during machining might cause an issue in leaving the substrate visible on a veneered board?
ice one Steve, you could machine to a true bevel but would have to make allowances for removing that material its runnign on or have it set spot on to finish to a bevel. I think you could make it work, but would have to be spot on machining. Better suited to thicker veneers and solid, but definitley possible.
Could always use the old blue tape and super glue method or some good two sided tape to attach a guide board that would register off the fence/table for getting a perfectly cut miter. Great demonstration of this tool, though. Great results from what I could see in the video.
Hey, do you have experience using HSS profile knives on euroblocks? I've ordered an euroblock and a couple of knives n limiters, excited to see how it works. Do they last a good while? or will I need to send them to sharpen often
They last well in solid timber. Can give the flat side a touch up on a diamond stone for more life, they are not for use on mdf or plywood, will ruin them very quickly
I would like very much to use this jointing system for at least a couple of projects but I don't have a spindle moulding machine (and of course not the bit either). However, according to some pro woodworkers it's not really possible to do long box beams using a regular table router bit (except for small box projects) as you need the power of the spindle moulder + large bit to overcome cupping and twisting issues involved with long boards. Any views/experiences? Thanks very much for the video, beautiful end result.
If the router table is sturdy i dont see how it would be any different! Just need adequate pressure at the fence both downa nd sideways to make sure the cut is consistent at the point its cutting. If anything, a smaller bed is better for really cupped timber.
@@BradshawJoinery Thanks very much for your response, it was just I had previously watched a seemingly very knowledgeable American carpenter Spencer Lewis who was pretty trenchant on the matter - I shall give it go. Here's his video from 2019 just for interest ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kE5yCC6ffcQ.html&ab_channel=InsiderCarpentry-SpencerLewis
