This was really good and helpful. I'll add a couple of hints that I got from following this procedure. 1. Sand the part very well. ANY imperfection that you can even slightly feel before painting gets magnified after painting. Good smooth sanded surfaces to start with are the key to success. 2. As he states, use Rustoleum Gloss Enamel. I tried that and the Rustoleum Automotive paint. The gloss Enamel is far superior: better gloss, better coverage with no overspray marks, etc. The key as this video says is 40% coverage on coat 1, follwed immediately by another thin coat for 80% coverage and the last thicker final coat for 100%. Just make sure its not so thick that it runs. 3. Close the garage windows until the paint dries. I had mine open with no screens and the pollen and bugs that landed on it cost me another day as I had to re-sand and re-paint.. 4. After the clear coat is applied on a vehicle, do not use a sanding block. its too hard and too hard when the parts are curved. I used 1500 grit sand paper and just hand wrapped it over a "sponge" style sanding block. It was soft and dealt with sanding on curved areas much easier. 5. Everything else he recommends and says is right on! Very good instructional video.
+John Leisner interesting points ,if anyone else is searching for car spray painting at home try Corbandy Car Sprayer Crusher (do a google search ) ? Ive heard some decent things about it and my mate got great results with it.
If you're putting on clearcoat there is no need to use gloss paint and wait 2 days to apply it. Also, if you're just applying clear over top the un-sanded gloss color coat you are not going to get good adhesion and it could de-laminate in the future. Use a flat paint for your color coats, and apply your clear coat after 15-20 minutes of your last color coat. This will result in time saved, but more importantly, the layers all being fresh will get a good chemical bond together as if it was one layer of paint.
Commenters below bring up some good points. I've been working on cars and a professional mechanic (first as a small engine repair shop age 14) and diesel and automotive the rest. It's always best to use a spray booth and compressor sprayed on paints with hardener etc. True that quality is best. But sometimes you don't have all of that available. Sometimes you just need to squirt something with rattle can. And this guy in the video does a very good job of it. 99% of the people rattle canning do not do it right and almost none takes 1000 grit to it and wet sands and then hand polishes it. For commercial grade product and doing it in a backyard this guy does an excellent job. Now back on your high horse!
An important point worth mentioning! In the video, our intrepid painter demonstrates excellent technique by keeping the can at right angles to the target surface, but never says how important that is. It's too easy to use a "sweeping" motion (from the elbow) that results in variable paint application: thicker at the middle of the sweep, thinner at the ends. Move your whole arm, left to right! Great job friend and thanks for making time to share! Best wishes.
Bro look. Your video is AWESOME. Period. You aint tryin to get in a magazine or nothin. You showin regular folk in the hood how to get the best result with minimal money. Awesome bro
+Patrick Simmons Hell yea! You one of the folk we need the most to show fighting over race is stupid.....but we can still make fun of each other and laugh while drinkin a beer....or three
+Jwizz Thanks bro I originally wanted everyone to be cool wit each other. Especially between different races. I'm not too concerned about it tho because God ALWAYS wins in the end. If I could just get one person to notice what my intentions were then God wins. You are proof Jwizz. God won!! God bless u and your family bro and anyone else who comments or sees this video!! 😎😎😆
thanks so much for replying i totally agree with you and you just made my shitty Monday a happy one thanks so much man and God bless you and your family.too =)
"orange peel" is caused by solvents in the paint evaporating. To avoid it spray one light coat then wait one hour then apply another light coat and a third after an hour then let it sit for 24 hours. Then light scuff sand with 1500 wet dry and clean off the surface. Let it sit for a couple hours and repeat process for however many coats you want 3 at a time. Also make sure you start spraying next to the object and stop spraying after the object. Do not start spraying right at the object.
That's why I like to use duplicolor , It's lacquer, it lays down beautiful dries so quick no orange peel sags or runs and then hit it with some high-grade clear
wrong. lol rattle cans are a joke. spray with a sata once with PPG and tell me how light coats work. you crank the pressure up to like 30 psi and hammer that shit on and at the higher pressure it atomizes the clear and flows it out.
Thanks for sharing your inside baseball. I just finished stripping and customized repainting of my Jeep's Jack. I baked the parts after painting them (1 coat primer, 3 coats finish, no clear coat) to strengthen the finish against nicking and chipping. 200 degrees for 1 hour and then 300 degrees for 45 minutes. I turned off the oven but left the parts inside until they had cooled to room temperature. Baking (when possible) really does create an incredibly tight bond to the parts an amazingly hard finish. It doesn't hurt the oven or leave any lasting odor. The only caveat is, check the melting point on any plastic parts and set the oven temp at around 20-30 degrees lower. Also, baking longer at lower temps is more effective than baking at higher temps in shorter time periods. Just passing it along. Thanks, Timmay!
Dope I like the out come.. I'm painting my Kawasaki ZX7R. .. They were going to charge me $1200 at a shop... But then I watch this video and decided to do it myself... And believe me it was worth it my bike came out beautiful... So don't worry about all those haters just keep doing what your doing
6 months if you are lucky, then rust will break through or the color will start to chip just because you looked at it funny. Spray paint is ok for quick make it look good jobs, but if you really care and want better than professional painter job, enamel /polyurethane paint with acitvator, hardener, thinners, rollers and brushes and 2 weeks of your time and you will have a stone proof, UV proof, insanely high gloss piece that will last for 10-20 years easily. It's basically the stuff they use to paint cars back in the 60's or something....
HenryMania you do know you can get 2k clear in a can?? 2k clear is the same clear you would use in a spray gun. Any rattle can job can last well over 2 years depending on the skills of the person. High quality finishes isn’t based off high quality tools. Even a professional painter can have a crappy paint job with high quality tools.
I sprayed a 3/4 ton pickup with rustoleum, in cooler weather no less, and it came out fairly nice. I made a plastic tent and put a heater in there, I find paint flows nicer on warm metal. It obviously wasn't a pro job, but in the end it was an even color and shiny, and 2 years later when I sold it, still looked nice. Take this video for what it's worth!
I'm glad you are OK. I feel concern at having the heater in the tent with the paint fumes. Renting a booth thats got all the ventilation would be a great DIY alternative. Least, that's my current idea for my project. One vid Ive watched, the guy says one exposure to breathing the stuff in could damage your lungs for life.
Stu VS Renting a pro booth would be a far better alternative for sure, but this was a low budget project. There was no risk of fire or explosion, as I turned the heater off once the truck body was warm, then sprayed. I wore a respirator, and while I'm sure the paint fumes are bad for your lungs, so are many other things you breathe every day.
Well, at the risk of being called a lying piece of shit by Indrekk...here's what I did. I followed virtually all the tips given in this video save one. After the 1st tack coat had about 5 minutes to dry (remember it only takes the Rustolium 15 minutes to dry to the touch) I followed with a complete medium heavy coat and let it dry about 3 days. Then, because I'm basically lazy and really hate sanding, I took a commercial scotch brite pad, (purchased a box from ORileys) and scuffed the crap out of the paint. In a fraction of the time it would have taken with even 400 grit paper, let alone 1ooo or 2000 grit, I had a really smooth surface. Then I gave it another tack coat, waited 5 min and another medium/heavy coat, five more min and gave it a full heavy coat. 4 days later I sanded with a few more scotch brites then a week after that I buffed it out with an electric buffers and Meguiars Ultra Cut Compound followed by Meguiars ultra shine polish. The result is the Finnish looks like a piece of black glass. Am I just lucky? Not a clue, I just know it worked great for me and didn't cost the $600 bucks the paint shop wanted just to do two Honda Shadow fenders and tank! Try it on something small and not important if your skeptical and see if I'm lying.
+John Freeman Scotch pads have a grit equivalency. I'm not too versed with it because the vast majority of my finishing is with wood (so I just use sandpaper) - but I do know the standard scotch green pads have a grit equivalency of 600. The Scotch grit equivalency comes more into play with plastic finishing, but I don't see any reason it couldn't be used for anything once the initial couple coats of finish are on and dry. It's not like there's going to be anything snagging fibers out of the pads at that point. --- I mention this because a common objection to using steel wool (which also has a grit equivalency) is "the fibers left behind can rust", to which the experienced response is "if something's snagging fibers out of your wool, your surface prep skills need a lot of work."
I painted a few Harleys with a paint can back in the day. I did a custom flame job and used a base colors and then a clear coat over them, all with a spray can. People thought it was done by a professional. The only downer about it was the spray can paints are not nearly as durable as the 2 part professional paints. The spray can paint chips easily. I had to make sure the paints where gas resistant. So I used polyurethane clear wood spray can finish, It work petty good.
great job for what was intended especially for those who cannot afford a so called automotive quality paint job. I also apologize for those coarse beings on here who take pride in denigrating others character and exhibit the very basest of human traits.I am proud to be a blackfeet indian but as such i am used to the vile railings of other so called americans.Have a blessed day.
im 1/8 cherokee. i am strictly mechanical hands on tools repair type i dont do body works etc at all but i have painted a few rattle can trucks etc over they ears and look ok passable,. this vid will help me on my next, either the 75 C20 or my 67 68 style C30 build, both just daily driver rusty beaters not restoring at all, i wonder about having rattle can factory colors made at NAPa or O Reilly auto? like 503 code light green GM 1967 68 color? that is what i want my C30 to be,. there is no rustoleum cans near this color.
Rattle can paint jobs are just fine as long as you use Spraymax 2k clear coat. It's a rattle can clear with hardener, and it's much closer to a pro finish durability wise. It costs about $20 a can but it's worth it because a couple years later it will still look good. No other rattle can clear is worth the time messing with. The video is good, this guy knows how to do it, he just used a cheap clear that won't last very long.
ThingsDemystified Where did painting a whole car come from? the video shows a small part being painted and that's what I'm talking about. I wouldn't waste a cent on Maaco, their jobs don't last for shit.
@@mikekristin7201 I'm sure you have already finished the project, but for new viewers, you buy a 2k clear that is more of a satin finish Spray max has them in several different finishes. Look on ebay.
I did that...I bought rose gold metallic paint and painted large rocks to line my flower garden. They look amazing! I convinced my young niece that they are giant gold nuggets.
See this dude understands the look is all in the prep and how much sanding you are willing to do. Took me 8 months to do all the body work and painting polishing and shit on my truck. Good vid
For anyone who wants a decent,smooth flat/matte rattle can job..prep like normal and use Rust-Oleum Rust tough emamel. I've done entire vehicles many times over the years with this stuff and it turns out great. The key is in the spray nozzle, it's not a normal nozzle found on most rattle cans, it's a fan type nozzle, similar to what is found on a pro HVLP gun.
Hahaha....painting out back of the house. ..love it...I just brought an 100.00 spray gun now i need 300.00 worth of crap. ..I couldve used a can...thanks man... Inspiration for poor folks....
See now this guy knows how to paint. I actually like the VHT engine paint or caliper paint. Mostly for dirt bike handlebars for small parts but VHT goes on incredible but this guy oils make it look good with any paint out there. Notice how he sprays vertical first then horizontal. Keep from getting line in the paint. Painting 101. Great Job. Do u powder coat also????. Just picked up the Eastwood machine. Comes out Incredible!!!!
Spray a LIGHT coat of color, followed by 2-3 medium wet coats, allowing proper dry time in between coats. If you spray the color right, you won't have orange peel. If you spray too much color, and you have orange peel IN the color coat, you will have to sand your color smooth, and spray more color coats. Spraying clear on top of a color coat that was sprayed too heavily (orange peel) will just result in a top coated orange peel color coat. You've just locked in the texture, and the only way you're fixing that is by sanding through the clear and into the color. Spray the color right so that you have full coverage, and an even coat with no texture. Follow up with your clear - usually 2 wet coats if you can spray it perfectly, or 3-4 wet coats if you plan on sanding out orange peel. When you wetsand and buff, if you have color on your buffing pad, you went through the clear.
I've done a lot of research about how to get a good paint job with rattle cans and yours is one of the better ones. The only advice I can give is to wet sand the color coat before you put the clear on and you'll have a mirror finish because the orange peel under the clear will be flattened. Good video dude, well done!
This is awesome but I'm a little confused. I always thought you should sand orange peel off of the color coat before clearcoating it. It seemed like maybe you clear coated and then sanded it back off to get down to the Orange peel on the color. I'm still learning so thanks for your video.
A good no nonsense video.Ideal for myself as i am trying to tidy a vehicle on my drive.I'm only after a good repair but not after showroom paintwork.Good job,well done.
Just some speculation but I think you might be light on the clear coat. a lot of paint guys i know just fix problems with orange peel and such with tons and tons of clear. I think in reality you may have evened out your paint here with a mix of color and clear and the wetsanding and polishing after smoothed it out. if it were me, i would have kept going with a few more layers of clear. some peel in the basecoat can be masked easily with lots of clear and the more clear the more protection your basecoat has. but great vid man. not trying to troll just sharing what i have experienced. keep rockin on the budget and thanks for taking the time to share.
Great job. Well done. I learned a VERY HARD lesson with Krylon yellow. I spray canned my 1965 Ford Falcon. It came out perfect. I did not clear coat and it buffed out perfectly after light sanding. Problem? KRYLON is plastic, which means it soft. .This means it won't hold its shine and doesn't hold up to abuse like enamel. And you cant spray enamel over plastic. Use ENAMEL!!!! Both paint and clear coat.
I dont care what everyone is saying, you did a great job with that paint can. Spraying is not an easy job when using a can and you made it look easy. Thumbs up for sure.
I don't know why people think this does not work, I spray painted and old truck 10 years ago with tremclad and it turned out beautiful. It was sanded nicely, good sunny warm day, and a skilled hand and some knowledge of how to spray properly, after some practice.
Did a motorcycle gas tank and side covers just like that years ago. Just about everyone found it hard to believe it was a rattle can job and I spent less than $20 on it. F*&C those that hate, different jobs, different budgets.
He told ya good, any can that you want to use should be thrown in a warm bath, about 40-45 deg celsius as to warm up the contents of the can and reduce the viscosity as to make the paint flow more nicely and not sputter and splotch... Now this clown in the comments with water softener and aromatic oils should go and inhale paint thinner for half an hour, it can only do him well... But yeah, heating the cans up a little rather than taking them outta cold garage when they are almost at 0 celsius will help drastically with laying on the paint... Also, the asian named guy, moe, clear coat is the transparent lacquer that you use to seal and finish your painting process... Its like womens transparent fingernail lacquer, just there to add a layer of reflective protection and make the true coloured paint underneath more shiny and nice to look at... Also, clear coats are often UV resistant and as such protect the paint underneath from sun's uv rays, tho not from the rest of the spectrum...
@@KidKrazz81 Honestly? Apart from buying professional paints and mixing them yourself, as well as, or better said, especially getting professional clear coats and doing the prep work and painting with care and patience, there is little you can do to protect paint on most things... For cars and bikes, get a cover with elastic edges that will hold itself onto the thing you threw it over, but apart from that, not much to be done... I spent a fucking month prepping and painting a windsheild wiper cover... After all the sanding, degreasing and what not, i let it dry and cure in the warmed basement for a month... the first thing that happened was that some spider or other bug shat a 1/8 inch crap on the surface once i put it back on the car and the bug shit burned through the clear coat and damaged the paint... The same car is exposed to all those bugs and elements and what not, and after 20 years of so being, most of the car's paint is still very good, apart from small clearcoat scratches that can be buffed out... That tells you that trying to do your best will give you great results, but the end product apart from looking great wont be that great in enduring and looking as good as it turned out for long... Though, if you want to protect your works, be it car panels or whatever, wax for cars is great in that... but you have to renew it every now and again... But it does shield the paint and the lacquer on a level that is otherwise unattainable... Also, those rudely expensive ceramic coatings do great in that department if you maintain the ceramic coating... You also have a certain product that is applied in form of very thin sheets, almost like saran wrap(cellophane foil) onto the car or a bike(i assume that is why you ask)... Once wrapped, it acts like a layer of gel that will absorb impact and prevent scratches and stone chips in paint, as its elastic and will not allow the paint to be contacted directly, nor impacted in any way, if you intend to drive around the road and not go into severe offroad skids and flicks that will bombard the paint with a truckload of stone every hour of driving... Sorry for a pocket version of a bible, and i hope you find it useful...
so I've used spray can for years and never had orange peel.. I know how you get it though.. You've waited to long between coats.What happens is the wet paint hydrates the dried paint and pulls it as the wet paint dries... Spray it all at once and don't let it dry to long between coats...
It's actually because he is spraying too far away (not criticizing, i do the same thing). The paint coagulates before it hits the surface. Learned that from a career bodyman. Nice try though.
Thank you for the information. I had a paint job where this happened. Orange peel look appeared and I was wondering what went wrong. Sucks because I sprayed a phone cover blue waited for it to dry painted a fish on it with acrylic and then sprayed clear with Rustolium. Its just I had this process work before on a bigger project without that problem. Perhaps my first coat was to thick. Sadly sanding it is not ideal now with art under it.
When you are talking about the paint being dry, but not really dry... I think what you are trying to say is that it's dry, but not yet fully *cured*. Sort of like epoxy glue, it hardens to an extent within maybe 15 minutes to an hour, but it usually takes a day or more to fully cure and reach it's maximum hardness/durability potential. Back when I did a lot of spray painting with cans, for like, guitars or motorcycle trim pieces/tanks/fenders/etc I would use halogen lights a little ways away from the part, or sometimes use the kitchen oven which *stinks like crazy* but works really well. I can't remember any of the temps or anything but since water boils at 220F, you obviously don't want to go that high. I think the last guitar I did, I baked in the oven at around 150F to 175F for about 2 hours. It was a fairly heavy handed clear coat job, that I normally wouldn't have wanted to touch for days, but it came out of the oven looking great with the coat so nice and hard I went ahead and started re-assembling it while it was still hot. I was playing it about 15 minutes later and it's still just spiffy. That was around 13 to 15 years ago, but of course a guitar isn't sitting out in the weather year round, so ymmv:P I just went and did a little googling real quick to see if I could find some numbers, and some people on a Porsche forum were saying they had a lot of luck baking primer on at 175f for 2 hours, then doing the same after spraying their color/clear coats. They weren't painting their porches with rattle cans of course, they were doing trim pieces, valve covers etc etc. This is essentially all about accelerating the initial stages of the curing process. full cure time for some paints in some situations may be up around 20-30 days for maximum hardness, so accelerating that process a bit can save a lot of hair pulling. And if one doesn't want to stink up the house baking things in their oven, a couple of halogen worklights put out a lot of heat, so if somebody had a little storage shed/workshop, or could make some sort of semi/small enclosure, they could put parts in there with a couple of halogens. just not *too* close. not sure if a halogen could actually boil paint or not, but it's probably best to get a little oven cheapy thermometer or something to put with the parts to make sure you aren't getting *too much* heat. There's probably LOTS of info and suggestions on various ways to do things like that, so i think if you do a lot of can painting, it's probably worth a little time for research. Anyway, it was just some thoughts, suggestions. have fun and good luck with your projects:)
The music made me feel like I was watching an intense matchup in the International Spray Can Painting Championship. The pressure…the concentration….the glory of the winning final coat.
+027 - SpeedyRaceTeam - Noah I used to get runs with spray paint. One day, not too long ago really, it just clicked that I was usually thinking "okay how do I get more paint on here for this coat" or "well, I can't call this coat finished when it has that one really thing part." But really - you shouldn't worry about getting more paint on, and you should call the coat finished if you dusted the area but it still looks kind of thin. It'll always look better with 5 weak/thin coats than with 3 moderate coats (which will probably get a run) or 2 thicker coats (which will definitely get a run.) And the thin coats dry super fast too, so you're not actually taking much more time to be done. For example, last week I primed a bunch of framing boards for a chicken tractor. Had a can of Zinnser (probably best primer there is, ime) and the thin coats (50-60% coverage) were dry to the touch less than 20 minutes later. Okay I'm writing a fucking novel and really my only point was - make the coats as thin as possible and try to banish any thought of "how can I get more coverage" because the only good answer is: you can get more coverage in half an hour when this coat is dry.
Ive been watching this video for like 6 days now. Been using it as a reference for my own project. Thanks for posting this. Didn't realize the "orange peel" referred to the wrinkling effect the paint takes after curing.
Next time keep the cans in 100 deg. water for 20 min. before spraying. Use less paint and more coat's. See can about re-spray times. Orange peel comes from the SOLVENTS not evaporating completely before the top layer hardens and traps them. The flatteners used in paint is just more thinner in the paint that evaporates quickly. If you wanted to paint a whole car. Get a LVLP GUN These can run well on limited air volume and pressure. Buy its. or a gal. and mix 50/50 with acetone or a medium reducer [xylene]. Lots of light coats is key.
Have4guns compressor when they said 125$ for quart of paint ifound local ace can make any colored enamel PAINT for 15$ good for lower areas has rust prevents.upperareas can order original color spray cans 20$ 😎
I once bought a 73 Monte Carlo for $250....Bondoed the Hell out of it and sprayed it with Rustolium...and sold it for 3Gs...Saw it a year and a half later and it looked like total shit! LOL The paint chalked up big time.,,,But I got paid!
exactly seems pretty exaggerated. I mean we're in Arizona and I know other places are more humid but here there's no way it would not be bone dry in a couple of days. sometimes purists go to such lengths to get perfection, and it's really useless. Why? because after using that bike for 2 months, that paint is not going to look all that perfect anymore so really who cares.
Everyone who said a real paint gun is better is simply pissed because you got a paint job that is "decent".....not perfect but "decent" and spent less money doing it. Practicing with any medium is a work of art and you just get better at it. saying a paint gun is better than a rattle can is not exactly right. They are nice and they are easier and have more options than a rattle can that I am not denying. But it is exactly like if someone gave Leonardo Davinci a crayon rather than oil paints. He became a master with oil painting so if he used any other medium it would have looked like shit. So what I am trying to say is a person using nothing but rattle cans can get experienced enough at them to make a beautiful finish. The reason we have such a bad outlook on rattle cans is because usually most of the people who use them are very impatient people and it shows in their work. But if properly applied and time is taken then that shows as well. To be honest the way a mass production car rolls out being painted and assembled so fast mistakes are definitely made a very patient rattle can application will almost always look better than factory. We have all owned a car a time or two that the factory paint was less than perfect and was most certainly NOT showroom quality that a rattle can would be almost welcomed. Plus I personally live in the salt belt and sorry to say even a shitty rattle can job looks better than rust. Good job dude on the spray can finish. I will say that using other brands you need to get use to the way their nozzle works which is why some people condemn other paints. They are just simply use to a certain brands nozzle. switch a rustoleum nozzle with a Krylon nozzle and tell me you don't suddenly hate the rustoleum. Rustoleum does have a pretty decent nozzle but I am starting to like Krylons as well. Duplicolor has great paint with shitty nozzles. If they ever fix the nozzle to not throw out large droplets they might actually have a product that rivals other brands. Until then I'll stick with the rustoleum nozzle and just switch it to other cans as needed. Always test spray when switching nozzles by the way.
Your wrong I have 20 + train collision shop painting there is no comparison between rustoleum can it sucks ! Truth hurts you can’t touch the difference in the two my tekna paint gun will smoke your junk rustoleum can it if your poor go with the junk can of rustoleum !
Absolutely a brilliant video for us regular guys. i have used spray guns and cans...you have helped me learn how to bring it to a new level. thank you so much!!
Good job.... surprising how well a good rattle can paint job can work out, especially on small jobs. The clear coat is a very important step too. Patience is key!
yeah. don't follow this video. pay someone to paint it. macco always has $299 specials. go talk to them. you wont even have to touch your car and it gonna come out looking better than spraying with a can.
***** You can say that again! I have a friend that took a 88 camaro there to get minor body work and a complete paint job. They told him they integrated the clear coat with the paint... in the sunlight, you could see the primer spots where they did they did the body work. I went with him to confront them, and after about 2 minutes I blew a nut and went off on the manager. 50% refund payed for all the supplies, I took 3 days to "re-shoot" that car in single stage enamel... My buddy asked me to paint for him from there on...
MERKEDYOULOL Because its cheap? lol. You can do all the work yourself, then bring it to them for the paint for $300 for a solid 2-3 years of brand new paint on my 18 year old beater
This is really a treat to watch, well-made. And yes, sometimes waiting IS the hardest part! I'd mention (your technique was visually obvious, but you didn't point it out) that when spraying (whether a rattle can, or an airbrush or detail/sprayer air gun) you always, always, always start closer to you, then sweep side-to-side and away as you cover the surface. The reason is: The over-spray from your nozzle is covered over with a smooth coat. Yes, this is obvious in hindsight, but some people never think about it. AND I will edit to add.....sometimes we make do with the equipment (tools) we have on hand....and the facilities. A "clean room" of some sort helps tremendously, too....if possible to set one up (money, resources, etc).
Thank you for this tutorial. I just gave it a try, and the results were better than I expected! As an experiment, I divided my piece into two sections: one half followed the tutorial exactly, and on the other half I tried sanding the color applications between coats. The results were exactly the same, so next time I'll save myself the trouble of sanding the topcoat. Somehow removing the orange peel from the clear coat also removes it from the topcoat. Also, the last step with the Meguiar's compound requires some heavy elbow grease (or a DA, as you suggested). After the first application it still appeared flat, but with more vigorous polishing it came out beautifully. A lot of work, but well worth it.
Update: Although the appearance is fantastic, I noticed that the finish is very fragile. I used this method on a small metal drill bit box and discovered that tapping it with a wrench produced a nick. I also tried applying some Oops paint remover, and that damaged the finish as well. I'm interested in hearing any suggestions for making this finish more durable.
I spent many years in special finishing, and for sanding on intricate pieces I found that using smaller pieces of wetordry wrapped around a "pink" pencil eraser achieve the best sanding results. It takes longer as you are sanding with a smaller surface, but I can control pressure better on contours which prevents any possible over-sanding and gouging. Also found that a DROP or 2 of dawn dish-soap per quart of water makes the paper slide better over the paint - properly wash-down after sanding.
Hey brother, Thank You for taking the time to show everyone how YOU paint. I don't recall anytime that you claimed this technique and results were comparable to a $5k professional, environmentally controlled spray. Everyone who wants to criticize your method or results should make Their Own video and Prove how their method turns out. (notice I didn't say prove that their technique is Better, because Better is based upon limitless variables). To a lot of people (including myself) your technique is "Better". Thanks again for taking the time to share a great DIY video that will definitely help people like me, and ignore the couch potato internet experts who need to criticize others to make themselves feel important!
ok. so there are a lot of things wrong with this video. so don't title it "the right way." And you don't spray after sanding with 320 paper. you should have hit it with some 400 and wet with some 600 after the 320, then spray. also, tack cloth is useless if you are gonna spray outside. so there is not one single place you could have spray inside a sealed off and vented shop or room in your house for that matter? and you should have wet sanded that base coat since you had already let it dry for two days then sprayed the clear and you would have so much less orange peel to color sand out later and it would also look better as you spray the clear coat and not worse as in this video it did. if you wanting to stay cheap with this project then go to harbor freight and get a buffer. don't buff by hand. you can even get a 3" buffing disk kit for $15 and put it on the end of a power drill and it would have had better finish and you wouldn't be editing your video saying this is going to take a lot of time! also you could have used a clear coat with a hardener in it. they do make it in a spray can as well (2k). then you could have color sanded and buffed it the next day or sooner. over all, it turned out nice, but you still could have used better products for a cheap price and saved a butt load of time and elbow grease.
trevor rushton Looks fine to me. Maybe he did it outside to show people it can be done outside? Maybe he doesn't have a shop... maybe he has kids and cant paint indoors. Thanks for the constructive criticism though... hope you feel better about yourself
trevor rushton I'm with you until the clear 2k with hardener...are you sure you can do that over oil based enamel, if so after how long of curing and is this by direct experience?
Rattle can paint can't match the durability of auto paint, Under $200 you can buy a gal of single stage auto paint with hardener and reducer. Use the appropriate primer system under the auto paint. Why put all that time and money in a rattle can job when after a year it looks like crap.
How am I missing the point? I said "Rattle can paint can't match the durability of auto paint." Then you agreed by saying "except minus the gun and perhaps the 2 stage BASF poly" I never critiqued his techniques. In his video he mentioned that he paints cars with rustoleum and a paint roller and my response to doing that was " Why put all that time and money in a rattle can job when after a year it looks like crap?" You agreed by saying "Clearly, painting an entire car this way would not work well"
Thor Mcgee I rattle-canned the entire side of a full-size van with Dupli-Color over 10 years ago, and the finish is fine, and it's parked outside. I'm not saying it's not better to do it your way, but rattle-can jobs don't look like crap after a year. The biggest thing keeping people (at least me) from using anything else is the steep learning curve and tools required for doing it any other way. I assume what most people ask themselves is, "why would I do all that when I can do it with a $5 can of paint?" Having said that, I'm open to learning new things and doing things better, so if someone can make it easy, I'm all for it, but part of me tells me that will never beat the experience of an experienced painter, so if I'm going to do all that, I might as well pay someone to do it....like Maaco. Ahh, so many conflicting thoughts. I want to turn my black car Laguna Seca Blue.
Very good. For a long time I've been wanting to know some of the tricks/keys to a good finish. I am impressed that the comments, for the very most part, were serious (not joking around and back talk)!
The Meguires Black is the greatest, fool proof buffing. Made a 15 year old paint surface, that looked good already, but once applied, the Meguires made it shine great. Then, applied the Meguires "Cleaner Polish", and some wax, you would never know the car wasn't re-painted............
You did it all wrong The right way to get a professional finish with spray cans is multiple coats. You have to let every coat dry completely before putting on any more paint. You do NOT put on one huge thick coat in one operation. You put on THIN coats. After you have put on enough THIN coats that have dried before the next THIN coat was applied to cover... then you do your sanding as you go>>> you spray, let dry and sand... spray, let dry and sand... until it is evenly smooth. Then the last thin coat makes it come out almost PERFECT. Then you do a very light sand and spray on the clear coats the same way: light thin coats and light sanding inbetween coats. You're an amateur.
+Charles Lewis (Big Grime) It doesn't really matter as long as you use a higher grit than 200 and can't see any deep scratches. The point is when you paint it as I said, you can find out for yourself which grit works best for you, and how much sanding you should do. Buy one sheet of different grits and see which one you like best. Every paint acts differntly. Every color is a different chemical formula; there's no universal rule. Sanding is done to even out the paint thickness, and smooth it out any drops or splatter. Once the paint covers: that is, once you can't see the undercoat anymore, then you can put on as many or as few coats you want to. It's up to you how perfect you want the paint job to be. The final sanding can be with rubbing compound. As long as each coat is dry enough to be sanded, it's just a matter of patience and persistence. If you put on a clear coat any scratches will disappear anyways.
Sorry man Ihave to give you thumbs down and even just making the suggestion of doing a whole car is just scilly. Wanna paint something, then take it to a professional to get it di\one right .
I wouldn't rattle can a whole car, talk about a pain. If you're on a budget, plasti-dip is much more forgiving, and it's affordable. You could even buy an electric HVLP gun for < $100, though I wouldn't suggest it. Unfortunately, finish is matte.
I know they offer clear coat & also glossifiers, but they're not anywhere near as glossy as traditional auto paint. I wonder if they can be color sanded and buffed? :)
i used this method with chrome undercolor in areas that tend to be shadows due to the bends of the surface. all ways let each coat dry completely! and only use two top coats of your finnal color. this also works if you want to have designs or highlite certain areas and use black if you want to excentuate body bends
I am using this video for guidance in my drumset refinish project. Nice job and thanks for posting. Btw, I use warm / hot water in a pot and let the Rustoleum can sit in to warm up the paint. Seems to help the consistency of coats. And yes, Rustoleum is THE best..
I painted a trailer with cans of black and clear. The original paint just flaked off due to road use. Lots of thin coats of color and then clear. Lots of wet sanding between coats. I was bored and had a weekend. The original paint just flaked off due to road use. The cans gave it a nice deep gloss finish. It looked great and wore well.
Great video. I like that you take your time and do it the right way. I see a lot of guys on these videos who constantly try to rush everything and take as many shortcuts as possible and they wonder why their projects don't turn out so good.
10 or 12 years ago my son and I built a fiberglass over wood canoe.We used .97 cents a can Color Place Walmart paint, because we wanted to hurry and use it. We planned on stripping the cheap stuff and repainting/gel coating. The canoe has been stored outside, and used many times, and the 97 cent paint STILL looks like new. The only places we had to touch up was over bare wood. We were told by all the "experts" that paint wouldn't stick to fiberglass. Hard to believe the cheap stuff lasted so long.
one good trick i've learned is to heat the spray paint before you use it. use a bucket of hot water, put the can in the hot water and put something on the cap to keep it submerged for about 15 min. dry off the can shake well and you will get a very good clean flow.
Definitely a lot better than I thought, just a note though, use the True Value brand X-O spray paint. I'm not exactly sure what they put in that stuff, but it will make your surface look like mirrors
Pre-WW1 cars were all painted by hand, with brushes and lead based, soft paints. Some Cadillacs, Buicks and Oldsmobiles were painted and buffed out by hand up until probably 1940. You could actually repaint damaged paint by sanding it a bit and simply repainting just the damaged area, then polising the whole panel out. It was simple since there was no clearcoat involved.
I used to paint cars back then, the old fashoned way. And I would like to say you did a super job on the cheap. You also have some great tips, waiting till the paint cured up before trying to sand out before the clear coat. Im impressed...Nice job on the scooter!
There's alot of tips, tricks, and hacks to improve the result, but this result was good. Of course you can go further, but that doesn't diminish that he got a good result, this is just something that can use some improvement and development as you go on.
I use to paint cars back in the 70's when lead base paint was the only thing you could get and learning how to control orange peel was an art just like using can paint. You did a good video Jason thanks. I think the big part of your video was to express the fact about waiting a couple of days for the color to dry before adding the clear coat.
Try putting whatever you paint ( talking about metal) into an oven on 110 degrees for about 15-20 mins. This will dry the paint quicker and help it grab the metal better. I did this with the hinges on my Jeep and it turned out nice.
I just picked up a gallon for my boat, going to spray the top deck. The pro grade rustoleum is even better with can, but they only come in some very standard colors, they do have red. It's some of the smoothest stuff I have ever used in a can. Very consistent.
I painted my '85 Honda Shadow with Dupli-Color Truck and Van metallic and the results were amazing. 5 coats paint, 3 clear, people didn't believe it was spray painted. I'll agree Krylon is crap, but I like Dupli-Color.
I always fancied myself a spray-can expert. I feel validated that you recommend Rustoleum. It's the only thing I use. You can get a really evenly layed finish with it.
Nice job and very useful for my, much smaller, paint task that I need to tackle. I didn't realise you had to sand and compound the clear coat. Very useful to know!
Awesome video! I've been doing this for years, and always get awesome results. I've had people compliment parts I've painted and they didn't believe it was done with spray cans xD. one tip I'd suggest, is to use gloves when you touch the part when cleaning or sanding. the oil on your hands will cause the paint to start peeling there (something I realized later when a panel I painted started peeling in the spot I held it at when painting lol). any cheap set of gloves will work, the box of 100 vinyl gloves (the clear kind) are the cheapest, and are pretty durable (usually around $10 a box). the cheap white gloves are also $10 a box but tear very easy. my favorite are the light blue box of gloves (about $14 a box). they have powder inside which keep your hands from sweating as much, and are thick enough to be durable, but thin enough that you can still feel tiny parts, such as rebuilding a carb. those thick white gloves, and the thick dark blue ones are too thick to feel what you're doing, and cost more. and those black gloves work well too, but are even more expensive.
I like your video. I'm getting ready to do similar to an engine compartment on a Lincoln LS. Just pulled the 3.9 out, unbolted and removed everything else in there, and plan to do a rattle can job on it. Your results are great!!
Use a laquer type paint to begin with then wet sand and finally meguires! I did a 1978 f150 step side in black this way a while ago but you could read your watch through the paint 5 feet away! Yes it took many awards!! Duplicolor lacquer is where you start not rustoleum unless you want to paint toys or lawn furniture!
Wait you don't have 200 links to something that I could buy in your comments, your information is accurate and delivered well, and the video looks pretty darn good. I think this might be the first awesome genuine RU-vid video instructional that I've ever seen. LOL good job man and thank you.
Fantastic video. Short & informative. I wish I had watched it before just finishing a sizable paint job, an inground basketball hoop system. It all 'looks' great. Unfortunately, every time I move a piece, something smudges. I hope I don't have to wait 2 months for it to dry.
