@@TheLoxxxton I suspect there will be no work done on the Series Landy until the "totally-not-a-project-vehicle-because-it's-going-to-be-my-daily-driver" Discovery is completed.
Geoffrey, nice work there Sir, impressive. I was all set to buckle in for a full hour, but 33 minutes will also do. Thanks for sharing the trials and tribulations with us all. Stay Safe & Cheers!
I still have an hour until work finishes, that won't happen fast enough! Thanks for the amazing mix of repairs, humour and narration. If only all the other channels could be the same, but I guess there is always some standouts! Cheers from Aus!
Geoffrey, your videos are never long enough. The combination of determination, skill and your excellent sense of humour make we want more, more, MORE! Very nice work in this one - thanks for sharing!
17:47 protip, so you don't have to think things too much. Make your repair piece just big enough that it overlaps the existing metal by one mm in the areas where you can (won't be possible everywhere). Then tack the piece on all sides so that it's "part" of the car, just a tack or two per line should suffice, enough to keep it in place when you weld stuff. Then, using a slit disc, slice along that mm line and thus establish a perfect 1 mm line across the whole gap. Tack it in place properly, continue to the next line, rinse and repeat. You'll have perfect fitment, and perfect gaps for welding. Like i said, some spots can't be done this way, but for the places where you can... this is a superior method. So much less hassle dealing with proper gapping and stuff like that. Just slap it on, cut, weld. The overlap can be bigger than 1 mm, but there's not much reason to, and the 1 mm will give you a good reference line where to cut, because you're cutting both the parent metal and the repair. Caveat, some metal may remain behind, but that's dependent on what that overlap is. If it's as small as possible, mere slivers remain. Usually, the 1 mm is good for places you can't reach behind to retrieve the dead material. I've been doing this for a while now after catching this trick from "Halfass Kustoms" and it's really, really good. I think my repair time has gone down by 30 minutes on average (since most of my cuts are accessible from behind, i don't bother with the 1 mm, i just slap a piece on top, and cut).
Every time I see an old Disco tootling around that looks like the one my mother had when I was a kid, I think "Man that's in great shape, it'd be nice to have one of those." And then a few days later, inevitably, you release a video and bring me back down to terra firma.
You are not timid to tackle what needs to be done. There's many layers being uncovered to get to the root of your repairs. Nicely done can't wait for the next installment. Thanks for impressive video.
I love how this wasn’t supposed to be a project and it quickly become a project. Watching you work definitely inspires me to keep working on my 67 Mercury Cougar all the way over her in Missouri, USA!! Keep it up!
Outstanding work, Geoff. Option 1 - leave it as it is…. Who are you kidding? 😂 I admire your determination given the surprises in its condition and the weather and location difficulties. The result is vastly better than most professionals would achieve.
My series 3 and your videos have made me more eager to bust into my own restoration… lol with a dash of f**k moments haha keep all the videos up mate!!
I mean,... what did you expect? The day someone cuts up their pillars and finds pristine metal is the day the experiment is over and the plug is pulled. A big sign in the sky will say "Press reset for next session.".
Great channel mate loving the disco project. I have a 93 disco and range rover classic 93 also I have also done extensive repairs like yourself and still find it fascinating to watch someone else do Repairs I have done .only difference is here in England there even more rusty 👍
Yeah, I don't think this one is too bad. The rust is only in three bad spots where water has leaked through. It's not like the whole thing is rotted out.
A nod becomes a grin, which turns into a smile. Then a chuckle, followed by a laugh. That's what's been happening over the past 5 videos watching this "not a project" vehicle gradually turn into just that. (I never said I didn't understand.......)
I gave my son a 200tdi Disco. Told him to call it Lazarus when he got it back on the road. Eventually it ended up being recycled as we lost the barn. You've got a good one 😂
I'd like to say I admire your patience for this project, but for all I know, you are already losing all patience for it with each new lovely rust patch. Regardless, the end result of all these patches is impressive, and I like that you share your thought process for not replacing that inner structure. It is a shame that you cannot find a good donor vehicle from which you could cannibalize such bits to make your life and project easier. Cheers!
I'm looking forward to a revisit in 6 or 8 years where we get to see what's left of the disco by then. My money is on a rusty engine block and the bits that have featured in this series!
I really appreciate the way that you share your thought process as you go through your repairs! You would have made an awesome teacher. (Unless you are one! : ) ) In Canada we have Rust Check or Krown Rust coating which is sprayed in vehicle cavities and on the undersides of vehicles to counter the salt from winter roads. I cant help but think that Rovers would have benefitted from this from the beginning! Cheers!
"...video is getting a little long..." What?! I managed to get through only two mugs of coffee! Anyway, nice job. Especially considering the hidden horrors behind the A-pillar skin. I've recently done a similar job on a Hyundai H-1 4x4, and multiple layers of sheet metal without sufficient rust protection (and how can it be anything else?) is a disastrous way to build a vehicle.
Great work Geoff. Enjoying your new series. Quick little tidbit: These are not exactly high-demand vehicles in the US. I ran an auto finance branch years ago and repossessed a 2003 Discovery (this was in 2010). During auction inspection they found a blown head gasket. I ran it in the auction for two months and didn't receive a single bid on the truck. I tried to sell the car for $250 to cover my auction fees, couldn't get anyone to buy it. It ended up selling to an independent dealer for $100. It was a loaded model with leather, not a dent on it, etc. I would have bought it but I can't purchase customer vehicles for obvious reasons (conflict of interest concerns).
Other than the floors, the A pillars, the [insert next rotten part here].... It's all original matey. One careful owner (5 lunatics....) - Seriously loving this series though. You go through the pain so we don't have to 🤣
Another great instalment! This time where I've been before you! Discos are great & always need saving if possible - even when they are not a project.......
