Popular Hot Rodding magazine covers how to install a Reilly Motorsports AlterKtion front suspension in a 1968 Plymouth Valiant. Ron Aschtgen of Outlaw Motorsports in Riverside, CA turns the wrenches!
One of the biggest advantages of this kit is the ease of transmission conversions. Since the torsion bar crossmember inside the trans tunnell is no longer required to brace the car's front suspension, you can remove it entirely and fit any transmission you like. If you're building from scratch and planning a tremec T56 conversion... this kit basically pays for itself.
Wish I had one of them but I’m poor so I’ll go with a 73 to 76 a body spindles got a 71 6 cly dart swinger getting parts together for a 440 a little drive and drag have a friend with one of these valiant well done
The aftermarket coil over suspension answers the question that didn't need to be asked. You spend $5000 to perform no better AND to step backward from stock durability and safety. Clearance issues? So what? For half of the RMS $5000 cost you can upgrade the stock setup to handle better and still have $2500 left over for $800 headers. Lighter? Not by much....In most cases, you're comparing a stock setup with power steering to your manual steering setup. Of course yours will weigh less. These kits are based on the Ford Pinto design from 1971. No lie, look it up. Being new and different does not make these kits an improvement.
I am ready to see the low block go in. Are the adjustable coil overs rated for the weight of the iron 6? Can the shock be adjusted just by climbing under it at the track to make like a 90/10 out of it drag track with the sway bar unhooked and then just bolt it back up and readjust the shock and your ready for the road course? Is this going to be in the magazine next month? I hope we are still going with a super stock springs with a Dana-60 with a snubber in the rear. Lost in South Florida!
If only if only. Building nearly the same exact car. Color and all. Wish I could pick up one of these kits though. But $3k + is a little out of my college student budget. Lol
@2008calander: I cannot agree more. I love Graveyard Cars, but if I were in charge, I would fire Darin. I view these videos to pick up tips and pointers, not listen to childish BS.
CRS make a double A arm kit for VE-CM. It Includes 280mm rotors, single piston calipers. 2" drop spindles etc for $4500AUD and requires no cutting or welding.
Those who think that Chrysler Corp Torsion bar geometry doesn't work, need to measure and pencil out how it actually works,,,,then just space the lower ball joint attach points, 2 inches lower and re calculate..... ;^)
+jb suzy It won't corner - will understeer like a pig.... And isn't the best part of the VH it's tail happy nature? :) Edit: Whups, thought you meant Charger,.... You'll go from small boat to C-body boat handling ;)
Between the RMS Alterkation kit, the disc brake kit, and the motor I'd guess somewhere between $18k-$22k. This stuff is awesome but for 95% of us it is quite out of our reach. Even if one could afford it how do you talk the wife into allowing you to out $20k into a $15k car for fun? Hopes and dreams.
Exactly!!! the cost is ridiculous nearly 5k for unnecessary weight reduction and few inches of clearance I am better off running the exhaust thru the firewall and call it a day
So besides losing some weight and getting space for home made headers I guess, why buy it? You can get the right alignment, big bolt patterns etc. with mostly stock parts. A-bodies dont even have any bump steer.. The way I see it torsion bars send the forces back into the body in a better way.
+purplehazenilsp Weight will go up - all the extra bracing in the frame needed for the coil-overs. Yes, the factory Torsion bars keep that mass lower in the chassis for better handling, and have better force translation characteristics (they transfer load evenly at all points of contact, coil-overs put it over on one side of their mounts), which is why when you look at Formula One you see Torsion Bars and not Coil-Overs.
@@PiDsPagePrototypes F1 use torsion bars because they use less space/parts and are lighter in the F1 application. Mopar torsion setup is nothing like that. These kits typically drop 150lbs off the front end bracing included. If it handles worse your settings/rates are wrong. You would need thicker torsion bars to compare, only compounding the weight issue and you still lack the comp/rebound from a good coilover. I love old school engineering too but there is good reason competitive auto cross race cars of this type use similar setups to the kit shown. Torsion is fine if all you do is drag race.
@@dangerouskoin4874 So much Nope in your statement. Fitting coil overs to the front of a MoPar REQUIREs adding more sheet metal bracing to the inner guard if you want the car to be safe. The area of the inner guard above the upper control arm mount, Does Not have the strength for the vehicle mass to sit on, as would happen with the use of Coil Overs. Torsion Bars have always been superior in ride and contact patch control, but there's more easy access to the knowledge to tune coil overs, that is why people think they're better. And once you go bigger, say up to Rally Trucks (Dakar, not Baja toys) Torsion bar layout is much better, to everything except a pure airbag system. Compression/Rebound comes from the Damper, not the Spring, which is why they're actually not called 'shock absorbers', but 'Spring Dampers'. Competitive Auto Cross use Coil Overs because they're Cheaper, and because they're easier for less skilled folk to tune - your average workshop mechanic can get them close, but it requires a talented Chassis Engineer to tune Torsion bars.
Do not hit on your steering components with a hammer like these guys did. You need a support/heavy object behind it. I would bet they bent those steering rods
I don't know what's worse - undoing all the factory design for where the weight used to sit low in the chassis for better handling,... The lack of Akerman geometry caused by having the steering rack in front of the axle, instead of behind, where it belongs,.. Or the use of an airgun to hammer tight the bolts, rather then a Torque Wrench. (Akerman Geometry is where the inside wheel deflects more then the outside, so that they run the correct radius of a turn, rather then scrubbing and understeering) Making an A-body corner is easy - drop it to 80% of factory ride height, box in the Lower Control Arms, fit adjustable shocks and thicker torsion bars, set the alignment to factory tow, 1/4 degree neg camber, 2 degrees or more pos caster (for more neg camber when cornering). Then go pick on STi's and WRX's in the corners (the Mustangs and Camaro's won't keep up)
I've worked around those awful headers, starter, torsion bars, and engine set to the passenger side for years. This is how the factory should have done it to start with. And no, a rack on the front side of the crossmember does not necessarily hurt the Ackermann angles or bump steer. Where that was causing problems was guys swapping the lower ball joints from side to side, then using spacers up to the rod ends. Yeah, it put the tie rod attachment points toward the front instead of the back, but it changed the Ackermann geometry and allowed for some odd toe angles, especially under jounce and rebound. This system uses new spindles that I would hope eliminate that problem.... at least I wouldn't assume it messes the geometry up until I've had it on a rack or at least measured, which I wish they had done at the end of this video.
This guy must be used to driving chevy that thinks you always have to tow a Dodge ,if you tow a Dodge is because it either run out of gas or you are taking it to a dragstrip Not unlike a Chevy that always blows rods out the oil pan 😂😁😀 I say it out of experience from driving my friend chevys 😂😂😂