Now, please make a kit to convert ‘56-‘65 MoPar push button dash control pods from mechanical to electrical to shift ‘67 and newer 727 and 904 transmissions, so I can still use my factory (appearing) dash pushbuttons to control a newer 904?
had them stick a cam on there yrs ago to figure out what it was...pretty neat setup. Mikes a good dude to deal with wasnt treated any differently than guys spending big $ Remember Brads humble beginnings and where he is now. Its not luck kids its hard fkg work and persistence!
course its a ford guy who continues the freeze plug myth, its a Casting core plug, that's literally how they got the sand out of the coolant jackets, they do not save the block from freeze cracking, just the happenstance that the water expanding when freezing pushed them out.
These batteries are expensive but they do last a long time and the power especially in the winter is phenomenal, my reason for upgrading to these batteries is because at my job I find myself setting for long periods of time in the car with the radio on, and sometimes with the seat heaters. The reserve time on these batteries are excellent. I have no fear that my car is not going to start after setting it with the electronics on in the winter time it can set for a couple of days in the start is extremely strong
Did Ford make a 454 engine..? I have a 1986 F-250 I was told that it's got a.454 engine.. 60 something thousand miles.. How much do you think it's worth 🤔 ??? Can anyone please tell me...
Need. It's own pump. Have mid engine car. Have to have 2 8' long hoses. Make a side by side pump with 40 amp relay with 5 amp 12v to ignition switch. Plus with mid engine car very little room, on floor board and engine bay.
1559 tv bearing on e bay $13 without seal... with seal $20. i like the stand alone seal as if it goes bad, can pop it out and replace it with new seal and not have to take the bearing out. but... if the seal goes bad it is cuz the bearing is prolly going bad from LACK OF ENUF OIL IN THE DIFFERENTIAL that lubricates the bearing and the bearing fails. the grease in the bearing is packing grease to keep it from rusting in transit. cheap grease. clean it out wiht WD 40 and put REAL US LUCAS RED OR GREEN GREASE in the bearing and on the axle shaft. KEEP REA:R DIFFERENTIAL FULLLLL OF GEAR OIL as it lubes and cools the wheel bearings.
1559 tv bearing on e bay $13 shipped... remove cheap packing grease with WD 40 and repack the bearing with REAL US LUCAS GREEN OR RED GREASE. KEEP DIFFERENTIAL FULL FULL FULL of clean oil as that is what lubes and cools teh wheel bearings
Helpful since I didn't receive a hose routing guide or explanation from CPP about which ports are high / low pressure on the hydro-boost unit. I wish you guys would have explained the bleeding procedure as it is definitely a process to get the system to work. Additionally my CPP system came with a "T" fitting for the dual return and I'm reading that is not recommended. One last thing...many hydroboost systems are designed to work with the fittings pointed up, I would think that would help with air / bleeding. The fittings in your system all point downward...
The last injected 351s out of the last 80s / 90s 5.7s out of F trucks and E series vans, I don't know who it was , it might have been Glidden but he said they will handle 900hp right out of the box, and they are the blocks you want if you want to build a hot cleveland on a realistic budget / not using super exotic parts.
