I'll add this tip, don't let the water or moss roots get exposed to air for more than a few minutes, all those new roots will dry up and die. I just did that yesterday, was air layering a climbing plowmanii and it had some roots starting so I cut it and left on the table for an hour for the cut to scab and by then all those new roots had died 😥
Interesting stuff. I use a very different method. Loose long-fiber spaghnum moss in a tray of water, root nub touching a moss fiber, ambient temp / humidity (Los Angeles County). No issues so long as I make sure the cut surface isn't touching the moss. I feel like the stomatal water intake you're referencing (assuming it happens) isn't worth the increased fungal risk, and future acclimation issues if new leaves form in the high humidity environment. But it sounds like you have it pretty dialed in. For what it's worth and to your credit the Huntington uses a similar method for jewel orchids (prop box).
@@prettyingreenthat's interesting was just reading about it. Maybe they'll discover a strain that benefits aroids but seems like for now it's not very useful for aroids in particular. I didn't realize the fungi was so species specific
@@silenc3x I agree. I didn't either and was using lots of it since I have historically with transplants, but not worth it if it doesn't match. It's also not a cheap additive
@@prettyingreen Sometimes true statements are irrelevant. Since mycorrhizal associations have been scientifically established in aroids, and distinct benefit has been established for rooting a vast number of other types of plants which have these associations, a more relevant statement is 'There is no reason at all to believe those same rooting benefits don't also exist in aroids'. This a case where a benefit very likely exists, so reasonableness & wisdom dictate we should not hold off from using this method or wait until we get structured proof.
💚A timely video. I lost both of my teeny baby Thai Cons to rot… literally melted away. I was afraid of humidity in the 80s, because I believed it would continue to rot the plant (I used coco-perlite). I wonder if the variety of plant has anything to do with whether or not to provide high humidity, and heat. Thanks for the tips. P.S. please do a video on the Camposportoanum. I just got a vine if it, and have no idea how to care for it.
@@IdrisFashan it definitely wasn’t fun to witness hard earned currency melt away 💸 in the span of a couple weeks. But at the end of the day, they are still just plants!
We literally have the same exact thing happen to Thai cons and call it exactly that-melting away. Because that’s what it looks like! It all comes down to the final tip: Sterilization. Trouble with Thai con is they usually carry Pythium in their genes, and it leads to damping off sometimes. I’m sorry to hear you lost both. Will check into the Campo! Still figuring it out! Easy rooter so far 😄
@@prettyingreenNow that several months have passed, I thought I’d provide an update on my cuttings experience. I’m happy to say that after adding a heat mat to keep root area warm, humidity (using the dome lid), and ALWAYS starting with sterile water for water props (using bleach in my case), I’ve had great success! The majority of my props survive, and have turned into happy plants. The 75% coco coir (from a brick), to 25% Perlite is providing plenty of airflow to the roots. Everything is thriving since I’m allowing roots the opportunity to search for water, and grow in mass. Another invaluable discovery I have made using this method is that I can easily convert soil plants to semi hydro using this mixture (75% coco coir, to 25% Perlite). I’m converting most of my collection out of soil, and into semi hydro. It takes the guess work out of watering, and I experience less loss. Not every plant does well converting with Leca/Pon/water. This mixture does the trick though! Thanks again for your amazing tips, and plant education!💚
I just put bare nodes from my micans in a fiji bottle ,filled half way , roots are growing and tiny leaves ,the roots are growing above the water growing downward along the sides of the bottle, now I know why , I hope this experiment that im doing works.
So when u poke the holes in the cups at the bottom it's on the side by the bottom right? Because if it was on the bottom I have glass shelves that would just trap the air so I can put them on the side of the bottom right? Does that make sense lol
@@prettyingreen ty so very much!!! Also is it ok if I put half perlite in bottom of prop cup and then filled the rest with pon? I put a mystery philo In there to root. It only has a few roots. But I just bought a mystery bundle of rare nodes and most were cuttings and rly rooted and I don't know half of them lol not yet at least lol but just wanted to make sure it was ok. I have the rest in an airy aroid mix and some in stratum. But can u mix stratum and pon together too? Sry so many questions. Just got into pon and stratum because I heard so many good things and I just wanna do it right. I don't use a reservoir tho. I put the pon or stratum in a cup and fill the bottom with a little water. Not touching the roots tho and so far so good. However I didn't do the holes because I didn't know yet lol do u think they'll be ok? TY so much 😀
Do you have any information on buffering coco coir?! I recently repotted the majority of my collection in coir/husk/perlite mix (did not see the 321 video until today, and now im in deep lol). I used too much coir & not enough husk. Also i added earthworm castings & biochar. Any help with the best way to move forward from here & getting them potted in the right mix 🙏 its staying too wet for too long (which i now know the reason why) a couple of my plants have shown decline since repotting some have done better snd im pretty overwhelmed with everything i must do now, so any tips moving forward i would greatly appreciate 🙏🫶
The husk is KEY for drying it out quickly. I’m using very little coir honestly. It’s probably closer to 4/2/1 or 5/2/1 some days. Try and water at ph 6 if possible
I'm growing an albo prop, it has rooted in sphagnum and has roots around 5 inches long. I just removed it from the moss and planted it in a 50/50 leca perlite mix, top watered like you used in another video. I'm feeding it with a light nutrient solution (2ml Grow and Bloom in one gallon of water). I'm keeping it in a dome on a mat at around 75 degrees. I plan to water around every 4 days...or when I can't see condensation on the cup its in. Anything you would change?
Only adjustment I would say is make sure 4 days is long enough for the medium to dry out. Coming from moss it likely has some existing left over, and you want to avoid too much moisture. Try and keep the root zone warm (70-80f) and lots of light!
@@prettyingreen Yeah, there is definitely still a bit of moss since the roots get soooo tied up in it that I was afraid I'd harm them. I'll try to take it careful with the water and wait until the condensation is gone to water since the cup is clear. This experience definitely made me want to prop in perlite or something other than moss in the future because it's hard to remove! I have it right next to a window that gets good indirect light most of the day. Should I add a grow light as well?
