Dear ,Mr Ellison. If anybody says that you talk too much ,means that they are probably the kind of person that doesnt listen enough. Those who listen are those who learn ,right? When we were kids we used to love listening to the ol' timers talk about their experiences forever and that's where good elders' wisdom gets passed on. And when they pass on ,you miss em'... alot. Especially when you run into an issue wher you could use their advice. You go on and talk ,my good Sir. There's gems in those words. Thanks,Man...😊👍
People who know everything about everything are everwhere, I have been at it for 42 years (heavy and light duty) I don't know everything, I am learning daily, it's a shame people complain about free education, I like your videos, keep it up,
A quick thank you. I just finished rebuilding the top end of an old SBC 350. I used your approach to adjust the valves and followed your guidance in this video to break in the new cam. This was my first rodeo, and I was crazy nervous lighting the engine after the rebuild. Your approach worked great! Thanks for sharing your experience!
Thank you for your input. Most of us are out on a limb on our builds with time and $ .We put our marriages on the line with our projects, when it goes wrong, we got problems!😲😂.
Keep doing what you’re doing you’re trying to help people out don’t worry about the haters. I appreciate all your doing to help us fellow gearheads out.
Fuel is often overlooked, with boat inboard motors. Plugs out, oil the cylinders, after a day, bar the motor over 90 degrees at a time with oiling the the cylinders and soak time. Change the oil and filter, pull the dizzy and drill the oil pump while barring the motor over several turns. Dizzy in, time it. New plugs and a gallon of alcohol free fuel. Tie it to the fuel pump clear the lines to the carb and fill the chimney. Fire extinguisher at the ready. Go for start.
Great video and glad you brought up the bad gas subject. years ago, I purchased a Jeep with a 258 inline. got it running and filled the tank. drove the hell out of it for a day and ran great, Next morning started her up and misfire, after checking found a bent push rod so replaced and back on the road, again drove it around for a day parked her overnight and first start had a misfire but on another cylinder. pulled valve cover and another bent pushrod. So did some checking and found that gas/varnish/shellack was building up on the INTAKE valve and guide and the valve would stick open and the piston would smack it luckily only bending the pushrod. Ever since I clean the fuel system with Laquar thinner or Acetone. That varnish from bad gas is like glue/tar. My machine shop asked me to look at a 429 they just built customer installed and it wiped out the cam. I went through the engine set it all up to start the first time. put her on a stand started and ran her for an hour. (OUR CARB) Ram great. customer picked her up and installed in 67 TBird. told them not to start without me there. called me a weak later and I went to inspect. Plug wires were crossed timing was moved. ect ect. I ended up starting it on a remote fuel tank since the gas was nasty smelling. Got her runing great and smooth. told them what to do with the tank and line. Week later I get a call. engine misfire. and broken rocker. fuel line hooked up and could smell the gas. Said they drained it and put fresh gas. Can lead a Horse ect ect. If you get the time check a short video of bad gas in a 63 J200 sitting some 30 years. BAD GAS AND WHAT IT COULD DO. Oh yea we talk a lot I'm Italian and my hands also get into the conversation.
Videos are great. Got a low mile bottom end I'm freshing up with heads and cam seals and gaskets. Looking to refresh my memories been a few years since I built engine SBC
Love this guy, have never meet him in my life but man his advice is just top notch. Cannot beat his knowledge and he is my engine guy! Thank you for being you and that is being awsome.
I would rather you talk as much as you need to so I can learn. If someone has an issue they can watch someone else! I appreciate your videos and the time you take to make them.
I am subscribing after watching the second video of yours today. You schooled me on what causes the red headers. I love the paint on the pushrods trick. Do you work Class 8 truck engines?
Thanks Ken, everything your saying is absolutely the truth. I talk till I'm blue in the face and people still do not listen. The parts and the oil and the fuel issues. And goes on and on, etc. Takes awhile because parts and supplies are hard to get!. Customers blame us for their negligence. For lack of following proper procedures and or knowledge and experience. Sorry about my rant. Most of my customers are super and very diligent and competent. They do great, my hats off to those people. Great video and content. Thank you, EM. PS, I subscribed to you Ken, have a good day.
Hi Ken. Love your videos and have learned a lot. I am building a 383 stroker for my 57 chevy, it will be around 550 hp. What oil do you recommend for the break in procedure?
Thank you for these videos. For clarity sake, after you have broken in the cam at 2500 rpm for 25-30 minutes, do you then let the engine idle for the next 45-60 minutes, or do you keep the engine revved up around 2500? I can’t tell exactly. Again, thank you for the great advice.
I've had someone hold a blanket over me when it was too bright outside to set the timing on a rebuild I did years ago. Didn't think about it until it was too late. Learned a lesson then.
It just baffles my mind how people will spend so much money and then use old gas or not flush the fuel system prior to starting a new engine. to me using a gallon of gas to flush the system prior to starting is well worth it. Same goes for transmission replacement not replacing cooler if it needs it or replace lines or flush the lines. I remember reading a engine rebuild book many years ago that said if you’re not gonna take the time to do it right just give this book to somebody who will I have lived by those words for a long time I might not be the fastest mechanic out there but when the job is finished it’s to the best of my ability.
With mine (points) I set the balancer at about 12 degs BTDC then turn the distributor the opposite way the rotor button turns with the ignition on and you can hear a crack when the points open. You just have to make sure you have the right lead post lined up before the rotor button. It is surprisingly accurate.
Mr Ellinson I have a thought about camshaft and lifter failure. You know years ago I never did a breakin procdure and I never had any problems with flat tappet hydraulic lifters but you may already know what im about to tell you and that is it's not the name brand but the entire automotive manufactures ..So in a nut shell its always has been they will cut cost so when roller cams started becoming in everything on the street the manufactures figured they could cut cost on the alloy used to make cams and lifters after all with a roller set up they don't need that hard of an alloy to work .so whatever Alloy is in the componets for roller will not be strong enough for.flat tappet. I just lost 2 cams and lifters and now a complete rebuild . 40 years of building engines and working on these vehicles I know it's not me . what do you think???? ASE M.T. dan ballow
The oils now don't have the additives needed for flat tappet camshafts, been there, done that, got the hat and the t-shirt. Wiped half the lobes off a new flat tappet cam in 5 minutes. They make oils specifically formulated for flat tappet cams. Google is your friend. Hope this helps!
you can set the timing with a vacuum gauge,,, i think: the most valuable tool a Mechanic can have is a vacuum gauge,,, and the biggest nightmare to a mechanic is a broken bolt...
A mistake is a mistake, we all make em. But if you are neglecting other things because you can't afford to make it right then don't bother building an engine or having one built.
ken, i have a crate 350 chevy with 8400 miles on it. i'm going to do a cam, flat tappet hydrolic lifter, spring change ( it currently has the stock cam and hydrolic flat tappet lifters in it). do i need use cam assembly lube AND break in oil or do i just use cam assembly lube and just oil ( i use royal purple hps 10w-30). i've done cam swaps before, but many years ago. thanks
Some guys will have engines built and say the builder is an asshole? I’m not listening to him… skipping steps, not verifying timing, temps, oil pressure just a few items will cost you big time. If you don’t like the guy building your engine seek someone else but you should always listen to your builder. Great info Ken straight shooter nice job.
If you think your in high demand it's because many people have seen local shops are NOT as clean as you talk about . I know this first hand . They did some small jobs OK ... knowing what I know now , an av crate en would likely have been built better ( cleaner ) . You keep hearing ... I wish you were closer !! That is why .
Ken how does the FACTORY break in a Engine ??? do they run them for 30 mins and recheck everything? or do they just slam them together and throw them in a chassis and roll them out for sale at a dealership ??? a Ford Factory Tech said on a break in of a New Ford engine do not tow for the first one Thousand miles and no racing of the engine, and drive it slow and highway speed limit not faster, and never just set the cruse control and go on a long trip... now you know ...
I second this. I remember reading the owner's manuals of the new cars my parents bought and they said to vary the mph driven of the car specially at highway speeds.
