One big benefit I don't think you touched on is the fact that your initial capital outlay for early phases of work is lower than stick frame: you can get closed in for less time / money than you could for a stick framed house, especially if DIY.
This is a great video idea. We went back and forth with our build, it's on a basement so cost wise it's about the same for us, but we have a massive 20ft tall front wall single story that is expensive to build strong enough to support it, and cost wise post frame might have been the better way to go. Likely we will do a video on this later. Each area has different building codes so prices can vary quite wildly 😮
Thank you so much for sharing! I am in the very beginning stage. I know what I want it to look like, but now I need to find a plan that I can modify for approximately 10,000 sq ft store with approximately (6) 3 bedroom apartments on the top floor. I am heading to your website.
My Barndo cost me $500k for the site prep and building and finish. Living 3624 ft^2, 1000ft^2 patios, conditioned lean-to 1152 ft^2 and conditioned garage 960^2 and a 260 ft^2 deck. It is worth around $900000 - 1Mil on 5 acres. Shell was ~$180k 40Wx64Lx19H I added the lean-to 18Wx64Lx14H and used McElroy Metals Matte Black PVDF Roofing and EDCO Products Board and Batten Metal Siding Glaciar White and Onyx Black wainscott, site prep $25k lots of tree removal and lots of fill pick a flat site, HVAC $25k 2-Zone 4 ton hp and Dual Fuel furnace Bryant Evolution Series , Foundation monolythic pour $36k 2400 ft^2 5 Inch and 1152 4 inch (87 Yards)plus 1000 patios 4 Inch (18 Yards) , Radiant heat 3-Zones $20k Labor $50k, Electrical 400Amps $30k, flooring $10k, Interior Sheetrock and Paint $25k, Garage Doors 2 16ft and 14x14 Bi-fold custom lean-to door $10k, Insulation $10k rolls and batts and blown in, Windows and Door $30k interior and exterior, plans $1200, water and electrical ditches and conduit $6k, liner panel $8k, lots of other stuff like trim, appliances $5k, fans, Kitchen Cabinet $10k, baths and showers toilets $10k lights, 2nd floor I-joists/Advantec 2000Ft^2 $20k, septic system 4 BR $7k ~$495k. I used Back Forty for my plans, too Liv was great to work with.
I'm assuming that doing a 16ft door is a lot more feasible on the end-wall than on a side-wall since the side-walls are supporting all of the weight of the roof, while the end-walls are supporting... mostly just themselves. Right? Something that comes into play any time I'm figuring out where I want the primary garage since I want a two-car single door.
Yes my 2 16 doors are on the end walls and have | |XXXX| |XXXX| | near double columns on each end of door to keep 6 columns at my 40 wide end wall. You can put them on the side if you double or upsize the columns mine are 3 ply. I prefered the end wall
@@danielnordeen8410 the trouble I'm running into with my design is that with everything I want to pack into the structure, it makes more sense to make it two structures in an L shape, but that makes drive-in access tricky with the end walls facing separate directions. I think I can get away with a single 14ft door into the workshop area so it's certainly a solvable problem.
You say that the cost is comparable to stick, but are you spend the dollars on different things. Like your using a pier foundation which is cheaper does that give more money to spend on say nicer finishes or is that saving spent on other needs not in stick builds?
No they are not saying that. They are saying the opposite. Apples to apples, same finishes and product level, they are saying the pricing is similar. It is only a couple % (1-5%) cheaper than stick frame head to head (hence the $10-15k number they thew out there).
It’s really busting the myth that no matter how elaborate your exterior or upgraded your finish is you’ll save money because it’s a barndo. There are some places to save but the home still comes in at a reasonable price for a home in the area it’s built in.
Most of what we see in Canada you’ll need to have the project stamped by and engineer. We have seen people use a pier footing design. Frost protection for the slab needs to be in place to the depth that your building area requires it.
