I've lost rack of how many crf300l handlebar install videos I've watched but yours is hands down by FAR the best I've watched. The hole drilling portion alone was gold! Thanks for sharing.
Zip ties on your handlebars are reusable. Don't cut them off. Loosen your handlebars before you start messing with disassembling you throttle assembly. You can slide bars out of throttle tube without disconnecting cables or wiring. You made a lot unnecessary work for yourself.
@2:43 No "fastener" on any Japanese bike is held by a Phillips head screw. They are JIS and not the same as Phillips. They are marked by a little dimple and require (if you don't want to mangle them) a JIS screw-driver (a $15 tool).
You nailed it with this video. I want to do the install but was trying to think of the best way to mark the bars for drilling the holes and you just showed me. Thanks!
This video was great man. I just got a CRF300L and funny enough I am planning on getting these same bars cause I had them on my DRZ-400 and loved the feel. I appreciate the thorough walkthrough video!
Very informative and I appreciate you going step-by-step. I also agree with you that the tabs are there for a reason definitely drill the holes also love the 80s cocaine wars music.
Hey I think u missed a very cool feature of this kit. I have been looking at many kits, but I like this one the best. The inner handlebar "clamps" come with two sets of split bushings, one for factory and one for fat bar. As the fat bar tapers in the location of the clamps, the thinner split bushings are also tapered. This way the clamps end up with a "straight/flat" Clamping surface. Without using these tapered split bushings, the clamps only apply force on the thicker side of the bar......... Sorry for the thumbs down, it was a fat finger mistake.
top video. does the clutch lever touch protaper "grip collar" when pressing to the limit, or does it go into contact to the regular grip surface, just as it is on stock grips?
Yes, the stock bars have an indentation at that spot. It's to prevent the controls from twisting with the throttle. Some guys just use tape but as I said in the video, I'd rather just utilize the tabs in the controls. They're there for a reason.
@@XSRDetroit They stay in position anyway, nothing moves, I've done it on other bikes as well as on the CRF300, and on the Africa Twin that I have now, you can also find numerous videos of others who don't make holes, and if they don't make holes, you can make further small movements if needed, for example you could move the clutch lever slightly inward and not cut the lever, to the right it can make sense but to the left it's just an extra complication.
@@Skatafossy i was wondering about this. if i drilled the holes wouldn't the angle of the levers be fixed after that point? if i was about to go do trails or a BDR or something, i might want to change the angle of the levers since i know i'd be standing more. i figured if i drilled the holes then it'd be a permanent decision on lever angle.
hi mate, maybe you can help.. I changed my standard handlebar to protaper cr high + Zeta handguards. Same end inserts what you have. But seems my right side of handlebar has 12mm hole, and the insert is 13mm. Left side of handlebars is fine (14mm so I can fit the insert in), but the right is different. I am wondering if it's factory fault, or do you have same (I did not see such problems in your video :-) )? Maybe different isserts should be for L and R sides? Am I missing something?
