Protect Your HVAC Equipment For Less Than $80 

This is a great video. I had 2 new mini splits installed last year and the HVAC company put these in. Without fail, they did the job and saved both my units. They came back and replaced them for free! Since then I added a whole unit as well. For anyone watching this video, this is a must have.

I have two and possibly three issues with this video: 1. If you are going to go through the trouble of installing a surge protector on the AC unit, why not install a whole house surge protector on the main service panel instead? That way the whole house is surge protected. The installation procedure is similar except that you need to add a 30 amp double pole circuit breaker in the main panel. Whole house surge protectors are available on Amazon or at your local electrical supply store. Make sure to use one of sufficient capacity. 2. The National Electrical Code FORBIDS installing two wires on one binding post on the disconnect switch as was done in this video. This is a HARD FAIL. The proper procedure for connecting two wires to one binding post is to install a single pigtail on the binding post and then connect the two wires to the other end of the pigtail. 3. I infer that the AC condensing unit runs on 120 volts based upon the presence of a white (neutral) wire on both sides of the disconnect switch. However, most outdoor AC condensing units run on 240 volts, not 120 volts. If the AC unit does run on 240 volts, then the white wires are “hot” wires, not neutrals and must be labeled as such. If you are using Romex cable, you can do this by putting a band of red, blue, yellow, or black tape on the white wires to label them as “hot.” If you are using conduit, it is better to use a non-white, non green colored wire instead of a white wire.

Great video. Like you mentioned at the end, I would start with a whole-house (SPD Type 2) surge protector at the main panel. It doesn't hurt to add additional SPDs at the AC disconnects or any other subpanels you have, but if you can only afford one, put it at the main panel. This is now part of the NEC (electric code). I would caution against installing multiple wires into the screw terminal like that, and it's generally not allowed. It's commonly done for these disconnects, but those terminals are only supposed to have one wire under them. It's possible that the screw won't make proper contact on the double stacked wires and it could arc and burn up the disconnect or worse. Either do a pigtail or I like the SquareD QO200TRCP disconnects with a switch that looks like a breaker (it's not actually an overcurrent protection device.) That allows 2 wires under the lug. That is rated for 60A, but it doesn't have to match the equipment, since the actual breaker is in the panel. The other nice thing about these is, you can replace the switch (with an actual breaker if you can't find the switch) if it ever burns out and not have to install a whole new disconnect box.

Nice video! We use a lot of ditek surge products for low voltage systems like cameras, alarms, networking and they have been reliable.

I installed a RSH-50 from Rectorseal on my unit, it’s got a lifetime product warranty and a LED indicator as well! Love it

Good info, I have a bunch of surge protectors installed, besides the obvious places like TV's and computers, on my main panel, at my heat pump outdoor unit, the AHU, at my washing machine. Also as some other have mentioned, not sure about the 2 wires in one lug. For my outdoor unit I pigtailed to the lugs.

The NEC requires Conduit Reducing washers on knockouts that leave a ring. Often these become weak with only two or three small tabs of connection there they codified this several NEC versions ago.

I never thought to install one at the outdoor condenser unit. I have had problem with my goodman Airlander ECM motor blowing out. Those are expensive to replace. I am not sure why, but I attributed it to power surge. It happened twice. It always happened during thunderstorm. The blower motor was running on 230volt circuit. To remedy this, I ran the blower off of 110 volt and used surge protector. It has survived for the past three years after the change.

Both my inside and outside units have a surge. I also have a whole house surge on my breaker box. So far I’ve been good

Two conductors under a single lug is often not allowed and can result in the connection melting

The Square D disconnect the other reviewer noted does not have a side knockout ( at least the one with same ID at the local HD). One would think they would revise these to accommodate the SP devices that now are more available ? I installed an Intermatic SP on my conventional AC unit at the no -fuse disconnect after we had a lightning surge destroy the AC contactor . I did “double lug “ the load (hot out) connections withe surge leads. The neutral had a second lug. The unit has been in service for eight (8) years now with no issues. Works great and I know of at least a couple close lightning strikes that could have caused damage but did not. I suppose you could pigtail the load and SP a shunt via a wire nut but that might (?) reduce the effectiveness of the shunt ? Anyway , still here, no spark outs , shorts, etc.

Planning to install Surge Protector on the water well pump too, since R&R a submerged well pump is so expensive.

Great information; thanks for the video!

That's exactly the way I hooked up an old Ditek to my generator's disconnect. I did this hoping if there was a surge from the generator my circuits would be protected. My Ditek is about 20 years old though and doesn't have an led on it though. I took it off the main panel when installed a GE SurgePro.

With lightning storms, I turn off the systems and open the breakers. The power company has installed large surge protectors on their lines throughout our area.

I already beat you the punch. I installed one a week ago on my Pioneer 24k Mini Split. The Led is hyper bright and I can see it shining at night all tye way across my 30 acre property. They're about 60 bucks 9n Amazon.

No. This does not protect a lightning strike close by. Power surges yes. Lightning strikes a bit further away - maybe. That is valuable already. However, I would go for a whole house surge protector, especially if your breaker box is full of modern expensive afci, gfci and dual breakers.

Another Great Video. I order 2 Ditek Surge Protectors.

I agree we need a surge protector, the one used in this video has a lot of bad reviews and possible fake units out there. I installed a Pioneer Mini Split System so i stuck with a Pioneer surge protector for a few dollars more and installs exact same way. For example take note of the seller rating of the supplier in the link on this video. That seller has complaints of fake units.

I pitch these all the time and tell people the importance of them, especially on mini-splits.

Hey Dave I am new in the HVAC trade but I’d like to see you do a video sometime on the correct way of wiring a head pressure fan speed controller for using ac during low ambient temperatures. I have a icm 325hn controller I would like to put on a unit.

Always great thanks 🙏 you 😊

Thanks for the videos. Just added to my honey do list...lol...but a great investment for sure.

Great video, I Need One.

Great video and information. I have a cabin that I get to every couple weeks with all electric HVAC. Would you also recommend this for a well? Really don’t want to pay to have a pump pulled for shock therapy.

Hey Thank you for the information

Great tip!

These devices have a Jules rating . The higher the number…the more energy they can absorb. The best location for the device is not next to the device you are protecting…but rather the beginning of the power line at the breaker box….this is becuase the line run provides electrical characteristics that results in the majority of the surge being absorbed by the device…if you put the device next to the item you want to protect…the surge goes to both devices. The electrical componet in that black box is probally the size of a dime and probally only offers 6000 Jules clamping and real protection does not occur until you get to 30,000 Jules and if the devices uses some type of inductive windings to shunt the surge away from the device…that would require the power runs from the unit needing protection to be moved to the black box in series with the inductors and have the clamping device on the other end of the inductor. This parallel clamping de ice will have a low protection ability.

Great, thank you!

Always great information. Keep doing what your doing.

I've got a whole house surge protector at the main panel, but I wonder if these dedicated units being closer to the load would be more effective or would a whole house unit be fine to protect the mini splits?

Great video.

Another great video DIY HVAC guy on surge protection system! I was wondering if you could somehow make a video about a possible solar power feature to battery bank to condenser video? Or how you would set up your dream system that would keep the home ice cold but save on electricity with complimentary systems like a whole house fan to take out hot air out of the attic and home, possible apps to monitor usage, how a house and attic should be insulated. Basically a hvac system off the grid with a ideal setup up. My electric bill was through the roof this summer and I am looking at possible solutions. Thanks for all the valuable information. I look forward to your videos like I do with this old house on the weekends. Have a great one.

Love this

So redundancy is good. So I do have a Surge Protector in my Breaker Box... I guess it would be good to Also have one on each unit as well.

How do u change capacitor on the slimline AC unit like the one you used on this video?

Could you please put the video links in the description that you put on screen? A lot of folks use ad blockers that do not display those on-screen links and ads. Please put the link to the whole-house surge protector in the description. Thank you.

Good job

Great for surges. Probably not effective on a close lightning strike, however. It’s still worthwhile.

Hi Dave, can you do a video where you install a whole house surge protector device (SPD)? Also, if someone has a whole house SPD do they still need a separate SPD on their HVAC equipment? Is it best practice to have multiple layers of surge protection or is one enough in most cases? Thank you, great video.

How does something wired in parallel protect the equipment?

Does this product protect against under voltage?

Not so much 100% protected here in Florida. Love your vids

Why we change the whole condenser instead of the compressor and dryer when it’s go bad?

Dielectric grease would have been helpful here.

Would you install this the same way if my a/c is right next to my main and I don't have a a/c disconnect? Mine is set uo to just flip the breaker.

How do i find out which one will be sufficient for my ac unit?

Im currently looking at the ACIQ mini splits. How have you liked your system? Is exteme heat worth it? The coldest temps I see are only -5F. I do not have a ducted system to supplement heating.

good item

Is the soft start you recommended in other videos a surge protector aswell?

Can the same principle be used with a system’s air handler unit as well? If so, any tutorial on the “how to” with adding the surge protector to the air handler unit?

Available from your local contractor for the now lowest price of $650

When did double tapping become ok and acceptable?

Wow in the country i live ill be needing one a week

Easy job! We get some pretty good lightning strikes here in summer. My HVAC a company wanted $375 to install one of these. Hey, they got overhead, OK?

I just installed a Siemens FSP140 Pro whole house surge suppressor in the main panel. My Carrier Infinity Series AC compressor is on a seperate meter and the wiring appears to be seperate from the main panel and is not most likely not protected by the FSP140. Can this device be installed and will it protect ths seperate circuit?

If your main electrical panel has the (now required) whole home surge protection, is it still recommended for AC disconnects to have their own local to the outdoor unit itself?

I feel like this should be installed in it's own protective enclosure or within the a/c unit electrical housing. The sun and weather will beat that thing to death. Otherwise, I like the idea.

How does it compare to the Intermatic AG3000? Nice job, and thanks for posting!

Does this work on. 3ton unit

I would have installed it on the line side. I would also have used a whole house sized unit.

Good job make more videos.

Like others have said - this is a wrong way to install it. You are not supposed to use singe screw terminal for multiple wire connectors (unless the screw terminal is specifically designed for it, and the one in this video is not designed for it), especially with different gauge wires. Ditek themselves have an installation instruction for this model right on their website, which tells to use wire nuts to connect multiple wire ends instead of stuffing them under same screw terminals.

Does it actually work? It seems like it would just blow it right along with the a/c unit. Its like just piggy backing another appliance to a circuit. I could understand if it was inline.

What if you have a whole house surge protector? No need for a surge protector for individual components then right?

I ordered and installed from your link on on my 12K mini split, but got no LED ? . The tech support is saying disconnect one leg to try to light LED. Have you seen this issue on 120 V unit ? Thanks

Great idea……i have a question though. I have 2 disconnects on my heat pump package unit. Which one would need the surge protector?

Is there any objective 3rd party testing of this device. I'm not an electrical engineer, but a parallel 'surge protector' still allows lots of unwanted power travel over the other lines. I'm having trouble seeing how it can do much good for a lightening strike (and I've seen first hand what they can do--twice), or is this only for small power line surges?

Why does the line side white wire with no black or red tape on it?

Does it matter if the surge protector is installed at the disconnect or at the actual panel? The electrician my HVAC company used installed it at the panel.

Isn't a surge protector kinda overkill? If your home is grounded properly then all discharges should be going to ground either from the utility lines, lightning strike, or internal electrical components, not to mention that's what a circuit breaker at your electrical panel is meant to do, shut off power when over amped or short occur.

so this can be used as a lightning rod ,right、？

what if your not using a disconnect and your using 120v with one breaker ? Then all you have is 1 ground 1 common and 1 load/line wire

And because it is AC (current) there is no "polarity" and that is why either one of the surge protector wires can go to either one of the load wires? (I'm sincerely asking).

The Green LED, over his left shoulder, went out as he was finishing his presentation at about the 7:24 point in the video timeline. What does that mean? Otherwise a good presentation.

If this is wired in parallel, how does it provide any protection al all? A surge protector needs to be in series before a device so it can be sacrificed to save the downstream device.

Another great video

Can i apply this to my central air to protect my capacitor ? thanks,Peter

Hmm no pigtails? replace them after every power outage?

Protector wires appear to be aluminum. Can't connect aluminum with copper without proper lubrication. Is the wiring of the protector indeed aluminum?

Why do some wire it up to the line side and some wire it up to load side? This is driving me crazy seeing so many videos doing it differently

What’s your opinion of the ACIQ?

Surge protectors are supposed to be installed in the line not in the load.

so, should you buy 2, keep 1 as a back up?

Should I assume this is compatible with soft and hard start kits?

Why are you using a black and white for L1 and L2 240 VAC? You should have labeled the white as red L2.

Are you sure it is ok to have that surge protector outside? I don't think that is waterproof.

There’s got to be good way to capture all that heat the outside unit is putting off, and put it into hot water for the house, or pool, or spa.

Hi, I am trying to get into hvac. Does anyone know about Preppy hvac online school. Any feedback will be much appreciated. Thanks

7:09 Amazon description says country of origin is china. Great idea. I need to find one not made by the ccp for my mini split.

Since the invention of duplex receptacles😂… But those are the same gauge wire and made for it. And theses are clearly not along with being totally different gauge wires.

At first I didn't see how this protects, I was expecting it to be inbetween the incoming line in series. But this video explains ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xR15_jv8sP8.html&ab_channel=SchneiderElectric . This is a parallel surge arrester; high voltage spikes excite a gas which then becomes a short to ground. Because electricity takes the easier path this device routes the excess voltage to the grounding wire. These are cheaper, smaller, and if they die it won't stop your a/c from running - assuming it hasn't been damaged by whatever killed the surge arrester.

greetings

Top notch videos my guy

Clearly says Made in the USA but the Amazon "Technical Details" description says Country of origin is China...???

IF you went to electronics school like me you would learn that surge protectors do NOT work against a lightning strike . The flash is so fast it laughs at the protectors as it passes through it. It does help with surge from the unit turning on.

Surge protectors ARE NOT 100 %. I had a "whole house" surge protector installed. Last week we had a power surge and it blew up my furnace and three retail surge protector power bars. I had to replace the entire furnace circuit board. Surge protectors are better than nothing i suppose, but they're also a false sense of security.

Icm 870-a is better

Really? I spend $17k on new furnaces and AC units and I have to pony up another $80 to protect it? Why isn’t this standard equipment?

But the power still going straight to the a.c leads . If lighting strike or power surge still will travel to main leads . 👎👎