Thank you for the content. I am a paid tech for 8 years. I will forget to put the nut on the line pre flare a few more times before i retire. Funny but great to share, happens to most of us.
Benjamin, I want to thank you. I have watched this video many times from when it was first posted. Many times since excellent video. thank you for what you do. I have now installed a mini split in my garage shop. What a difference. Thank you for making these detailed videos they are excellent!
The groove/gap space that's cut into each of the rollers on "all" tubing cutters is for you to cut off just the flare on the tubing. Without wasting and cutting off too much copper. For people who forget to put the flare nut on the line before flaring it. Just FYI
We are getting ready to install a mini split. We’ve been enjoying all your videos on mini splits. You are very articulate and knowledgeable. Excellent videography as well. I know it takes time to make the chapters, but they are so helpful!
Well done Ben. You have a nack for anticipating my projects. You did a video on installing a home generator just when I was installing mine and now you have given vital tips on installing minisplits just when I am starting that project. Thank you
Very good clear video, and much appreciated! I am new at this and was surprised that the factory-supplied copper lineset flares are not made to match the pipe offset on the shorter pipes of the indoor unit. I would describe the model I got as quite "user unfriendly" for the DIY'er. By the time I learn all this, I will probably know as much or more than the expensive guys I could have hired. The instruction booklet suggests that the typical cost to hire someone for the entire installation should range from $600 to $1200, but I know full well that not only would they charge around $4000, but they would do a massively inferior job, cutting all sorts of corner than have taken me many weeks of work in my particular installation. In my case, each step is at least ten times harder to do than shown in all the video examples I've seen.
Excellent job in explaining and showing how to do a proper flare ending. The video closeups were fantanstic! Thank you for the time and effort you put into this well-made vid.
There is also a gasket for flare fittings made by locktite I used on my units and I can't say it's the reason for me never finding a leak but I like to think it helps I use them with nylog blue!
I have been remodeling homes for over 25yrs. The area I wish expand on is hvac, mainly working with refrigerant or A/C, such as the mini split in this video. If you do any one on one training, or group training, I'd be very willing to make it worth your time.
Well done video--as usual. While working in the nuclear industry as an instrumentation tech, no flared fittings were acceptable, due to less strength than good compression fittings. We primarily used Swagelok compression fittings, or sometimes Parker, on high pressure inconel, lines. Flared fittings are outlawed in nuke industry power block. Why don't Swagelok fittings get used with HVAC? I would use them in a heartbeat over flared. BTW, I was certified on tube bending, and virtually all fitting types. The worse aspect of Swagelok was over torquing by pipefitters on smaller fittings.
Benjamin - excellent work explaining all in details. Your phraseology is flowless and to the logical points! I think you could be a good preacher, hahaha.. maybe a Mini Split preacher! - an ability to explain all without extraneous words is a rare combination of professionalism and mindfulness. And congrats on your name - as you may know our own and the original Benjamin Franklin - is the Founding Father of USA and & principal inventor of modern Air Conditioning! ;0) Thank you!
Thanks for the info on the proper flaring tool. Yes we have those no-see-ums but not until September. Essential oils like lemon, eucalyptus, mint and camphor are known for repelling no-see-ums
This is so knowledgeable and well put together. Thank you so much for sharing what the pros do and also sharing how us diy folks can use alternative methods
You really do nice work! Thanks for posting this mini split series!!! I'm currently shopping to replace my miserable window AC/ separate wall heater combo with a mini split so I can finally hear myself think in my woman cave room addition. I'm in central Virginia on a wooded swamp property....oh boy do we have those biting bugs!!! But the water attracts all manner of wildlife which we enjoy.
I really enjoyed your video and we have been thinking of installing one of course and letting the HVAC Guys do the technical part. I also must say as a business owner/ designer I never get to post videos I would love some direction please on posting because seeing you get that play button has now inspired me. Beautiful family. Many blessings to you
I got quoted $1,500 for a guy just to come and release the coolant and screw it in for me and make sure everything works properly. Is this a fair amount for a unit that is only costing me $1,300? I'm wondering if me and my husband should just do it ourselves instead of trying to pay that for the signature. Wanting to know what the worst thing is that could happen if we do install it in properly
Great vid. now subbed. Can not be emphasized enough: buy quality tools. If you use a deburring tool, point the opening down to avoid any copper bits from going into the tube. I love the Rigid mini cutter. I have severe arthritis in my hands, so I keep a larger one in the bag for doing 3/4, but yeah, this thing is great. HA. Glad to see I'm not the only one who forgets to do the first step first (re. flare nut). I'm writing a book on Mindlessness Practice.
Hi, DIY first timer. Great video. The line set that comes with mini split system I plan to purchase has pre flared ends. Instead of trimming the line that connects to the condenser, can the excess line set just be kept coiled and connected to the condenser? I estimate perhaps 3-4 ft of coiled lineset.
Have watched several of these but this is the best on flaring details. One vid suggested putting a trace of Nylog on the threads too, another said not to do that as it might make the torgue wrong. Opinions?
Oh yeah, I've done the same kind of thing as forgetting to put the nut on before flairing, but usually it was something like connecting wiring and not running the cable thru the box or nut first and having it all nice and tight and then OH DAMN, how did I DO that!!!!!!
Really like your videos, one thing I’m not sure of, if the crows foot rotation around the center of torque wrench is equal, why would it matter if it’s 90 degree to the handle or not?
The key to understanding torque is the concept of the 'moment arm'. The length of the moment arm -- in this case, the distance between where the force is applied (your hand) and the object that rotates (the nut) -- determines how much torque is applied with a given amount of force. Think about a long breaker bar on a wrench: you still apply the same amount of force on the end as a short wrench, but the long bar multiplies your torque. Torque wrenches are calibrated to a specific moment arm length. Good ones usually have a line where they expect the force to be applied, assuming the pivot is exactly at the square drive. By putting an extension (like a foot at 180 degrees) on there, your moment arm is longer than calibrated, and you apply more torque. Now, in reality, a small 1" or so addition foot doesn't really matter that much on a wrench of say a foot long. That would only be like a +8% increase, which is well in the expected error bar. If you grab the wrench wrong (e.g. near the end) you would be off by just as much. Really, for these kinds of things, it's ridiculous to be talking about decimal place foot pounds. A hairless ape grabbing a wrench handle wherever is convenient is going to always be +-15%, not even counting the inaccuracy of the wrench. All the wrench is really doing for you here is making sure you don't significantly over or under tighten. Humans are pretty bad about estimating torque by feel -- see Ben's other video about torque on electrical connections for example.
@@bnasty267 Heh. I was standing around the other day watching the HVAC guy installing a big multi zone mini split, and we were talking about nitrogen leak testing, etc. when he was hooking up the lines. The nearest torque wrench was at my house several blocks away. AND if I'm not certified as an installer, my warranty will be void on many of these Brands. Good explanation of torque and moment arm. I've never used a crow's foot adaptor with a torque wrench, so never really thought about it. Interesting thought as to what the math would be when using the adaptor at 90 deg. The torque/reading is still not going to be accurate. One could pull/push the handle of the wrench and exert zero force on the nut. Completely irrelevant to this video, obviously, but interesting to think about.
Would you say its worth DIYing a mini split over getting a pro install? My worry would just be needing to service the equipment and nobody wanting to touch a DIY system.
Do you have the video of the evac process? Also, i live near Milwaukee, wi, do you think i would need the hyper heat for my shop or would the regular cooper hunter work? Thanks so much for these
Showing house wrap in the video's final image - what was the cladding going to be on the house? The line set is attached directly to the sheathing, and the outside condenser is set before the cladding?
Is there some rule about line sets needing to maintain a downhill slope between the air handler and the compressor or can the last foot or so slope up to connect to the tubes coming out of the compressor?
Hi Ben, Love your video’s! Super helpful so thank you! Quick question. I notice you don’t do a nitrogen pressure test, just the vac down etc…I see info that lands on both sides of the fence. Are the necessary? Is it certain situations they should be done? I’ll be installing a system shortly and an was hoping for some insight. Thanks man for all you do!!!
Hello, i have bought a second hand 2.5hp AC, have been using it for 5 years now, i used to call people to refill the refrigerant couple of times, now I realized that they have been using freon mix with air, now my AC is not cooling because there is no freon, just air. Can you tell me how to removed all the old freon mixed with air from the AC units, and start to vaccum again and refill the freon again? Thank you.
Having done automotive brake lines (too many times) as well as A/C, there is nothing here that I couldn't easily accomplish. However, the reason I went with Mr Cool is because of the warranty. And because I bought from Ingrams, the warranty actually works. Is your CH unit still under warranty for a DIY install? Most aren't.
Ben!! what are you doing? did you play hooky today from school? You look like you’re about 13-14 years old…. but you have a damn fine presentation sense. you must be the Howser of HVAC.
I have a question - I see you trim off about 4 feet of lineset at the outside connect point. How does that affect the amount of coolant already pre-loaded into the compressor? What is a safe amount of line set to cut off before you worry about the coolant load causing overfill for the length of lineset? For example, it looks like you had maybe 20 feet of lineset and cut off 4 feet, That is about a 20% reduction of running footage. I have heard that 80% give or take is OK for the coolant weight in relation to the length of the lineset. Would you say that is accurate?
Great question. I'd like to know that as well. From what I've been reading, most pre-charged units are set for up to 25' and have linesets that are 16' and 25' for the same unit. Install manuals that I've read just mention the need to add refridgerant for >25' but nothing about
It doesn't matter that much. There is some flexibility with regards to refrigerants. If you get way over 25ft you might consider adding some, and theres a formula in the minisplit installation guide for that.
Helpful information. My garage is a 2 car and I have a 3 season porch. I have started looking into a 36000 BTU 2 zone system. Even though I am good mechanically, age is catching up and I'll probably pay for the install. How's the drive from Tracy to Brooklyn Park?
I always wondered why Pex can't be used instead of copper. Does anyone know why it has to be copper? Actually just realized copper is needed to handle the heat..
i am researching how to install my first mini-split. I am concerned about the flare connections. I heard you say to use the connectors that came with the condenser. I am wondering if you cut off and re-flared the evaporator side and reused the connector nuts that came with the line set or went with the flare/nut that came with the line set.
I have a pioneer 18k unit with a 40’ linset that I added additional r410a when installed. I want to move the unit to a different location because of a remodel. Will the unit only hold the amount for a 25’ linset when I pump it down or do I need to buy a tank to store the additional coolant?
4:20... I can see that the Flange of the pipe is too small in diameter for that connector nut. I use 1/8" out to have the Flange the same size as the 3/8" Nut.
There should be no cracks In the flare. These are a source of stress concentrations and the crack will spread. if there are cracks, they need to be removed usually with automotive sandpaper.
