Looking great! We use similar techniques to mimic the look and function of hydraulic pistons when there is not much space to mount real hydraulics into an RC model.
Yes, I have a few of those, they come as M3 and the M4 version is a bit more rare. Problem is that these small threads create a really slow gearing and that the motors have no axial/thrust bearing/bushing to take up the axial forces. But give them a go, they are pretty good quality.
I'm trying to leave n how to replicate hydrolics of a komatsu Excavator. Not after hard dig type pressure. But I'll keep watching your channel. Your a good teacher.
Absolutely! However, I did not get around to testing how heavy it can be, sorry! It is quite strong, though, but that will depend on the gearing you use.
Thank you for your interest! :) inner section: outside 0.5" wall thickness 16 swg (1.6mm) outer section outside 15mm wall thickness 1.1mm (probably nominal 1mm) You might want to build something with other dimensions. You need to find a combination that holds the bearing inside, the other holds the thread insert and then you use the PTFE tape to make them run smoothly without too much play. The trick is to check both metric and imperial dimensions, for both aluminium, bearings and (if you can) the thread insert - that greatly increases your chances to find a combination that fits. Good luck!
You've already done all the work finding pieces that fit well together! I almost immediately found everything I needed on eBay, and I'm not going to change anything! Thanks so much for your help!
good question, I will have to try it out. Please remind me if I forget :-/ The motor is one of the N20 motors, which you can find on ebay and many shops that sell components for robots.
Still on holiday with no access to the actuator, sorry. RPM depends on what speed you want to achieve. If you use an M6 rod, you get 1mm of linear movement per revolution. You can convert the gear motor's rpm into mm/second that way.
Gosh, I'm useless, at least now I have looked up the motor details: It is a Pololu 996, which is the high power 6V variant. It has a 210:1 reduction, 1.6A stall current and a no-load speed of 140rpm with 120mA no-load current.
No limit switches in this yet. You could attach them to the actuator or the parts that are moving, hopefully you can find a way to make it work for you. I'm thinking of adding a (linear/slier) potentiometer and use them as linear servos, no limit switches needed then.
hi, I am using circular pipe for making this linear actuator. But I am having problem that its not working. The pipe just rotates with threaded shaft. Is motor torque also the crucial factor for linear movement? Also if my shaft is considerably short in length then is there a need for bearing support? Ty
Circular pipe: You need to prevent both ends from rotating. If you can make sure of that by mounting them appropriately, then you can use round pipes/tubes. Square tubes makes this easier. Motor torque: Yes, motor torque, gear reduction and type of thread will all affect the force of the linear movement. Bearing support: The bearing is there mainly to protect the tiny bushings in the small gear motor from taking all the load. Hence, the length of the shaft is not really important. If you have a lot of force on the shaft, a bearing will help. If not, you can probably transmit those forces via the gear motor. Hope this helped :)
It is a Pololu 996, which is the high power 6V variant. It has a 210:1 reduction, 1.6A stall current and a no-load speed of 140rpm with 120mA no-load current. Most ebay versions of this motor will have less torque, but they will also be a lot cheaper.
