WoW. Honestly Chris I have to say a big thank you for all you do. I’m new to the 3-D printing scene but with your videos I was able to do a lot. Your Octoprint instal, Marlin update, LED install, LCD install videos helped me greatly... THANK YOU for all your help. Keep up the great work and continue doing what you’re doing, your great brotha.
Thanks for the video. I've been asking Dan for this and waiting about 4 months to learn how to modify the Prusa Firmware. My primary issue was the language hack that you mentioned. I can finally use my Slice 450°C thermistor! The Mosquito hot end is fantastic. I really like it.
Thanks for making this video, i recently brought the prusa mk3s and mosquito and bondtech combo, i brought the heater and the thermistor as well, ur video helps with this upgrade. thank you again.
Chris this is one of the most interesting and easy to understand 3D printing videos I have watched, you have great knack for getting the information across clearly and quickly, I have my firmware ready to go, just waiting for the thermistor to arrive. Slice don't ship outside USA/Canada so anyone outside wanting to try this will hopefully have a friend in those countries that can help them get one. One question though, you don't mention in the video how to change the 300C limit imposed by Prusa in the firmware, is it simply a case of altering the MAXTEMP settings in configuration_prusa.h ??
Hey Paul, thanks! That's a good point, yes, you should be able to just increase the max temp. I left out one piece on this tutorial that might mess up your live Z adjust. If you get a ? under Z on your screen, try this. This is what the file looks like: # RAMBo AVR Core and platform. # ------------------------------ # For more info: # github.com/arduino/Arduino/wiki/Arduino-IDE-1.5---3rd-party-Hardware-specification name=RAMBo AVR Boards version=1.5.6 compiler.c.elf.flags=-w -Os -Wl,-u,vfprintf -lprintf_flt -lm -Wl,--gc-sections I found it here: C:\Users\broth\AppData\Local\Arduino15\packages ambo\hardware\avr\1.0.1
Very helpful video! If switching to a Mosquito hotend with this thermistor and also the upgraded slice engineering heater, are there any other firmware changes needed?
Great video! Do you have a prebuilt firmware for v3.8? I have not been able to verify the 3.8 version myself and your 3.7 has been the only one that worked for me.
I haven’t done this yet but after you do the changes to the firmware do you have to update the firmware differently in the future or will it keep the updated temp table with future updates? Thank you so much sorry if it’s a stupid question
With the newer firmware it is a little different, you need the Eisny library now. Also, yes, anytime you want to update after this, you will have to do these updates.
Chris. Thanks again for the great video. Is the advantage of using the Slice Engineering thermistor and heater cartridge the ability to obtain a higher temperature range? Would it be also necessary to change to an all metal heat-break in that case? I would be interested in here more about the Mosquito hotend.
Yes, the SE thermistor is much more granular, so it would be more accurate. The E3D tops out at 300c. You would for sure need the all metal heat break, the e3d full v6 works for that cause. Higher than 300c, you really need to prepare for, all metal everything is needed.
Thanks - great info. You know though that according to E3D if you want to run high temp >300 or so you also have to go to a copper block. And IDK on the prusa but on the pulse you'd have to edit the max temp and probably redesign or reprint the hotend mount out of something else than RYNO which gets soft at about 60 C, I ruined fan shrouds just by printing big footprint items with a 100C Bed (ABS). reprinted them in Hobby King Hips and that solved that problem. Why HIPS. prints better than ABS, sticks great to my garolite bed, is tough, heat resistant probably like ABS, smells less and is $12/kg
Nice! Yeah, I don't even know if I would try high temp on the Prusa, there were a lot of questions on swapping out the thermistor on it, so I thought I would make the video.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks cause I might try it on the Pulse as soon as the warranty is up. I have had it with the E3D V6 for 7 months now have run close to 50kg through it mostly stuff with a .8 nozzle being printed between 265 and 285. That means 7 months and 3 thermistors replaced so far. Granted they are only 9 bucks but its a pain and yeah I am averagining about a sock every 2 KG but MH says I got to run it with a sock or else.... That temp thing is irking me anyway. When I bought it the salesman said "if you upgrade to the V6 you can print up to 400" Well did not go too well the first time I did a print over 300. Then they showed me the E3D website that said the same thing and I showed them the next page that you need a copper block and a T100 etc. BTW IDK if your pulse has the BomdTech extruder if it does the PTFE tube will wiggle out again and again happened also to the 3D printing Nerd over and over. I got it finally fixed I think as for 2kg it did not come out - posted on the MH forum about it. ALSO IMPORTANT!!!! check the wire that comes from the mini rambo to the heated bed. If its just hanging there and is not tied to something it will wiggle back and forth and will make the connector arc and sooner or later it will melt to the rambo board (its documented on the Prusa website as a "if you put it together yourself make sure you have strain relief" They had me send it back and replaced it which was ok (except we had a bad robotics season partially as we lost 2 weeks of printing) BUT the way they tied it down was so the wire now crosses the back corner of the bed - about 2 inches so if I print something there taller than 60mm it will snag the wire... And I am not allowed to touch the wireing or void the warranty. The wires from the Bond Tech extruder and filament runout sensor are just hanging there and rubbing against the filament spool if I use a slightly bigger spool like for example an ESUN spool. What a shame messing something like this up by having it wired by a teenager it seems. (I work with them) Beyond that lots of great accurate prints - as I said since we got some of the problems resolved 4-7kg of filament successfully through that machine (mostly Hobbyking HIPS bed 100, Nozzle 270 volumetric max flow rate 18mm3/sec) Pulse works way nicer when you slice it with SLIC3R and run it in volumetric mode.
Loved the video. I just ordered a Bondtech BMG-M extruder with the Mosquito Magnum hotend. Is there an installation process with this combo for the Pursa Mk3 along with stl files. I have not found any. Is there a thermistor/heating element mod for the Prusa Mk3 to increase the bed temp to less say 150C or 180C?Jim
Thanks! I currently don't know of any mounts for the Prusa Mk3 to fit that combo, but that doesn't mean there isn't one. Same for the bed, the only thing I could think of would be something like the new e3d beds.
@@gorillamotors The only change you will have to make is for esteps and maybe direction. You should be able to change the in eeprom with commands. M92 Exxx for esteps. You will need to calibrate esteps after the change.
Hey Chris, is there a way to get the firmware settings off of my printer before I upgrade to a updated firmware? Example, on my Geeetech MeCreator 2, I want to update my thermistor and add auto bed leveling to printer. If I make the necessary changes and then re-flash the firmware, all my settings will default back to original? How can I avoid this. I want to be able to use octoprint to reflash the firmware with the firmware plug in. Hope this makes sense.
Hello! Thanks for this tutorial, I just noticed that you didn't raise Maxtemp on heater 0 , don't forget to do it to go >300C°. Thanks for your work :)
Hi Chris, you should download the source.zip from the latest prusa firmware release as the MK3 branch is kind of on development and some changes are not tested completely. Due to issues during compiling I wrote the PF-build.sh script which downloades a known development platform and compiles the firmware correctly. You can use the PF-build.sh script on Linux 64bit, Windows 10 64bit with git-bash and Windows 10 64bit with Linux subsystem. Only thing you need to do is to copy the variant as new file, make you changes and then run the PF-build.sh script. To prepare Windows 10 64bit read the readme on github.
Hi, Chris. Thank You for this great video and manual. However I have encoutered a problem I didn´t find a solution for. I have upgraded both my MK3S and MK2.5S with Slice thermistor, made the same procedure with firmware upgrade (yes, I have used correct files for each printer, I have even tried to go through the procedue multiple times to cast out any mistake done by myself), but in MK2.5S the nozzle temperature is showing 60°C (in the ambient room temperature, not preheated). In MK3S it is working flawlessly. I have even tried to swap thermistors between my printers and they both work on MK3S and showing wrong results on MK2.5S, so it is not a hardware problem. Do You have any idea what can be wrong?
So the only difference here is one has a mini rambo and the other has the Einsy? That is really strange issue. I would think it would be really close to the same. They both use the e3d number 5 thermistor by default, but I know the MK2 does read a lot higher at the low end. Maybe send Ultimachine a not, maybe they would know why.
@Chris Riley love the video, any chance you have this all compiled in a file that can just be uploaded to my printer? I have the whole mosquito setup but fear screwing it up.
@@iflawdya2 Here ya go drive.google.com/open?id=1jrtCOpQiXCpN_co1hGIfXetO4y7_e4Md this is compiled with the mosquito thermistor max temp 310. You should be able to load it with Prusa slicer.
Hey Chris, Thanks again for this tutorial. I've run into a snag. Since mod'ing the FW, I can no longer perform a "live Z" or a 1st layer calibration. The Z will not adjust. Any ideas what the issue may be? Thanks, David
Unfortunately I left out one step. Try this, it might fix this issue. c. modify platform.txt to enable float printf support: add "-Wl,-u,vfprintf -lprintf_flt -lm" to "compiler.c.elf.flags=" before existing flag "-Wl,--gc-sections" example: "compiler.c.elf.flags=-w -Os -Wl,-u,vfprintf -lprintf_flt -lm -Wl,--gc-sections" The file can be found in Arduino instalation directory, or after Arduino has been updated at: "C:\Users(user)\AppData\Local\Arduino15\packages\arduino\hardware\avr(version)" If you can locate the file in both places, file from user profile is probably used.
@@ChrisRiley I'm working on macOS, I'm not finding the c.modify.platform.txt file I found a file named platform.txt, but it has very little info in it. # Marlin AVR Core and platform. # ------------------------------ # For more info: # github.com/arduino/Arduino/wiki/Arduino-IDE-1.5---3rd-party-Hardware-specification name=Marlin AVR Boards version=1.5.6
@@davidewen713 I went back and did this on mine, it did correct the issue. This is what the file looks like: # RAMBo AVR Core and platform. # ------------------------------ # For more info: # github.com/arduino/Arduino/wiki/Arduino-IDE-1.5---3rd-party-Hardware-specification name=RAMBo AVR Boards version=1.5.6 compiler.c.elf.flags=-w -Os -Wl,-u,vfprintf -lprintf_flt -lm -Wl,--gc-sections I found it here: C:\Users\broth\AppData\Local\Arduino15\packages ambo\hardware\avr\1.0.1
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris. This worked!! I'm running macOS. I found the file at this location; /Users/"myname"/Library/Arduino15/packages/rambo/hardware/avr/1.0.1
Interesting video, didn't know prusa's were so hard to upgrade. But what's wrong with the E3D sensor? (going from old to new style v6 myself soon). Cause running prusa's at high temp seems not goal here, unless your other sponser is the fire department here ;)
Hey Chris, Great video as usual! One question though... once you have all of this configured; what happens when an updated firmware comes out from Prusa?? Will you have to add this to the new firmware??
Hey Chris, love your videos. When I updated the thermistor tables I am still getting a MAX TEMP error when printing above 305. Should I adjust the Heater_MaxTemp in the configuration_prusa.h tab to 450?
Hey Eric, are you using the v6 hot end? With stock aluminum it's only good to 300c, anything over that will damage it. Now if you have the Mosquito, yes, just increase the max temp.
I am using the mosquito hot end and your tutorials have been my go-to on several diy projects with my MK3s. Can’t thank you enough for your channel and your ability to help us amateurs!
just curious, is that any thermistor that i can add with this way? because i just bought a rapido and just cant function normal i ask prusa and they said it was FW problem and they cant support and they said i can make my own
Hey Chris any chance you can do a video on replacing the LM8UU extruder bearings on the MK3s? Mine already died and I'm going to have to replace them...I've seen other vids on youtube but your attention to detail is always exactly what I need)
Hey Chris, I thought I would share with you that the Slice Eng Thermistor is currently not compatible with the Mk2 or Mk2.5 variants. I guess a recent update has broken something on the Prusa side of things. Source: Slice Engineering.
Hi Chris. Great video and mod. I did miss one piece of info, why replace the standard thermistor wit a Slice Engineering one? What are the pros and cons?
Thanks! The Slice thermistor is going to be a lot more accurate at high temps. For PLA and lower temp material it's probably not going to improve much, but the scale is a lot more granular. Basically, it's just a really high quality thermisor.
Hey chris I own and MK3s and just installed the Bondtech Mosquito kit with the SE Mosquito, SE Heater Cartridge and SE hight temp thermistor - in the Bondtech manual it links to a hex file with "SE_HT Thermistor" in the name - can I assume I would just need to flash this hex rather than compile the settings like you are doing in this video?
Chris Riley so that worked. I was able to flash the hex with no issue and load pla for the first time on the mosquito. My only issue is the load\unload has to be done 6 or 7 times. Is there any way for me to change that on the firmware? Thanks !
Chris would you happen to have this setup for MK3S 3.7.1 firmware? I just got a mosquito and thermistor etc but can't have access to do the firmware right now.
sir I am having an issue.when my printer is completly cooldown then bed temp show 19c which is our weather but hotend temp is stil 53c. I tried to preheat to 215c but it gives me the preheat error at about 190c. I have tried several times and always at about 190c it beeps and gives me the preheat error. I checked the cables, connections, fuse, etc. What is odd to me is that it attempts to heat up when commanded and then caps out and gives me the error. Any ideas? please help
Sounds like you have a bad thermistor or it's not compatible with your current temp table. Check it with a meter and note the resistance when the thermistor it cool. That will tell you a lot about what type it is.
Hey. Just working through this guide, now when I get to the arduino part, and I click tools > board, it doesn't say rambo there for me. It says arduino/genuino uno. Do I need to plug the rambo into the desktop computer for it to find it kinda thing?
Hey Shane, if its MK3 use this one, b. Setup Arduino to use Prusa Rambo board definition Open Arduino and navigate to File -> Preferences -> Settings To the text field "Additional Boards Manager URLSs" add raw.githubusercontent.com/prusa3d/Arduino_Boards/master/IDE_Board_Manager/package_prusa3d_index.json Open Board manager (Tools->Board->Board manager), and install Prusa Research AVR MK3 RAMBo EINSy board if it's a mk2 you need this one. reprap.org/wiki/Rambo_firmware#Arduino_1.6.4.2B_Board_Manager_Plugin
Chris great video the firmware you have here linked here what version is it I only ask is because I have a MMU and need the latest version there. I have downloaded the ide version 1.8.9 but when I go to the board manager and type rambo nothing comes up. Any idea?
This is the newest MK3 non S firmware, but you can do the same with the MK3S version. More than likely, you need the rambo board installed from board manager to get rid of the error.
@@ChrisRiley this is a brand new install of the IDE version 1.8.9 and when I go to board manager and type ram not a thing shows up. Just weird going to google around and see what I can find.
Chris I have everything working on my mk3s with Bondtech\Mosquito and I flashed the Bondtech hex (the file for the SE Thermistor) and my mk3s is still showing a max temp of 295? I know I flashed the correct file so I'm not sure how to get around this?
Yeah, you have to increase the max temp. I thought they would have done that in the firmware for you, I guess not. Maybe if you ask them they will send you an updated hex version with a higher temp.
followed instructions sensing temp ok. now i have a "?" next to the z...and i cant calibrate the z without it crashing into the bed....What is the solution to this
@@ChrisRiley would you mind making a small video on this? I've tried adjusting this 50 times now and I keep getting the lcd stuck on "upgrading firmware do not disconnect" Please help
I am thinking about upgrade my mk3s mod completely with mosquito hotend. But I don't find a good alternativ die the mk52 heated to heat it up to 160°C. And I think for printing ultem it will be really hot so o also have to print all parts with PC filament and also to change some other parts. Btw. It would be a good idea to change also the heater and the heat block and also the nozzle to reach higher temperatures for nylon/PA6 or other engineering grade materials
I am currently working on a high temp build. Eve with PC, I am not sure I would attemp ultem, but who knows, it might work. I use the Mosquito with a 50w heater and it does great.
@@ChrisRiley I am also preparing an article about this but not on RU-vid. Only on my website pcpointer.de Also a bondtech with mosquito is possible. The heater with 50 w is enough and can be used without a MOSFET. Einsy Mainboard provides enough power. I hope the meanwell rsp320 13,4A power supply will be enough because the biggest problem will be the heated. E3D has some high temperature beds but they don't fit in the mk3s. For ultem normally you also need an enclosure and to put some spot lights inside for a temperature of 70-75 degrees. The hole electronics has to be moved out of the enclosures ... You will also need to col the steppers minimum with aluminium heatsink ... The belts will be strong enough ... I think that are the main problems ... I will first start to buy a mosquito standard :) Btw: I prepared a new article about building a printer from scratch. It's in german but the content could be helpful: pcpointer.de/artikel/prusa-i3-mk3-mod-3d-drucker-selber-bauen/
Hi Chris, I need some help if possible, I have some project similar to 3 d printer but I need some support to select which thermistor is suit my project ,I need the thermistor with 3 m cable extension.so appreciate any support
Hey, just about any thermistor can work, 3m shouldn't be an issue. I would just get a cheaper 100k one and work out the table for the extra resistance.
Ok Chris, how can I solve l to be able to compile since it gives me badge of plate this is why I am doing wrong some step? you have firmware version prusa 3.8 already compiled
@@ChrisRiley that's what I was wondering - why call it upgrade? I know it's "high temperature" but AFAIK Prusa still uses PTFE-tube equipped E3D hotend, right? Sooooooo printing above say, 260C, is no go anyway - right ?
@@cthulpiss I would say the thermistor is a little higher end then an e3d, but the e3d is still good. SE thermistor is a little more granular in its scale. Prusa uses the full v6, which has PTFE in the heat sink, but not in the break. In the Prusa config 300c is reasonable.
so i downloaded the completed firmware that you put on google drive, compiled it to a .hex file, but now when i go to flahs the printer, it gets to 100% verified and then just hangs there forever. and when i go to restart the printer it hangs on the splash screen until i flash the older stock firmware again. is there any chance of getting your already compiled modiofied firmware hex file Chris?
@@ChrisRiley so strange. i just tried that on two different prusas and it did the same thing. just hangs on '100% verified' indefinitely. im gonna try loading an older stock firmwar and then re uyploading this modified one. maybe theres something happening with the newest prusa FW thats different.
Hello Chris, Thanks for doing this video. I'm attempting to do this with FW 3.9.0 or 3.9.1 I've tried on Windows and Mac and I keep getting errors verifying the original unmodified code. Any idea how to get past this or where I can get help? error: Arduino: eeprom.h:594: error: 'reinterpret_cast(20)' is not a constant expression static constexpr M500_conf * const EEPROM_M500_base = reinterpret_cast(20); //offset for storing settings using M500
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris. Thanks for responding. Yes, I have tried both 1.8.5 and 1.8.13. I get the same error with both versions. I've also tried using both on MacOS and Windows 10. I believe the same issue of the "M500" and "bad CPU" which I didn't post initially.
@@davidewen713 Hey David, I rebuilt everything and was able to successfully build. Maybe you should try to clean up your IDE folders and try again. Try this, arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/54644/how-do-i-reset-my-libraries-back-to-original-condition
@@ChrisRiley Hey Chris, still a no go, both on MacOS (primary system) and Windows (under Bootcamp). I have completely removed Arduino from both OSs and reinstalled. Note one thing missing from your tutorial, is that with a new install, you have to specify the Rambo board in Arduino Additional Boars Manager URLs. I'm not sure what my problem is. I have used 2 computers (1) MacPro (2) MacBookPro. I have used (3) virtual machines aside from the (2) native OSs. All have failed with the same errors. Windows error: exit status 1 'reinterpret_cast(20)' is not a constant expression MacOS error: fork/exec /private/var/folders/lb/5ykbpzxj2tqb65fl6927xtgw0000gn/T/AppTranslocation/327F42BE-7466-44D2-BB20-EE12882C8849/d/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avr-g++: bad CPU type in executable Error compiling for board RAMBo. Virtual Machine errors: Note - this is for both Windows 10 and MacOS High Sierra versions Note 2 - these were both virgin installs of Arduino, and fresh downloads of Prusa FW. Note 3 - both VMs were run on the MacPro wiring.c.o (symbol from plugin): In function `__vector_23': (.text+0x0): multiple definition of `__vector_23' sketch/heatbed_pwm.cpp.o (symbol from plugin):(.text+0x0): first defined here /private/var/folders/_v/9gzs0y5j1hdd00skdj0m1clr0000gn/T/AppTranslocation/02CF9201-3990-449B-85A7-447323193008/d/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/4.9.2/../../../../avr/bin/ld: Disabling relaxation: it will not work with multiple definitions collect2: error: ld returned 1 exit status exit status 1 Error compiling for board RAMBo.
@Chris Riley I finally figured this out. I was able to verify the stock FW version MK3_GCC. Following instructions on this GitHub thread: github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/2337 Even though I'm using MacOS, I followed the "Windows" instructions Specifically under "Windows" 1:c , "Modify compiler flags in "platform.txt" file. Now I just need to make the changes that you show in this video and verify again. Cheers, David
Thank you for your videos and great job!! I wonder if you could make a video installing a Fysetc RGB LCD on a original Prusa. This LCD is much more moden than the original. Thank you in advance from Spain
@@ChrisRiley hey thanks. It was the FW version. I needed the specific prusa firmware 3.11.0, I had grabbed just the PF-MK3. Obviously wrong firmware. It worked right away. Thank man. You make some of the best vids for 3d printing. You’ve been a big help.
When I add the thermistor table and flash the firmware, my printer reports it is 76 degrees celsius at room temperature, and I instantly get a thermal runaway error.
@@ChrisRiley No worries. I emailed Slice, and the engineer told me that he uses your video to explain how to set up Prusa firmware with their thermistor, so it must still be accurate. I think mine is faulty. I switched back to the E3D thermistor until I can figure out what's going on.
I am trying to verify the files @6:50 and it is showing the error below, any idea how to fix it? In file included from sketch\Configuration.h:60:0, from sketch\Marlin.h:21, from sketch\cmdqueue.h:4, from sketch\Dcodes.cpp:4: eeprom.h:236:55: error: 'reinterpret_cast(20)' is not a constant expression static constexpr M500_conf * const EEPROM_M500_base = reinterpret_cast(20); //offset for storing settings using M500
Hello, Prusa uses some syntax not supported in some ide versions, I tried it in 1.8.5 and it works. www.arduino.cc/en/Main/OldSoftwareReleases#previous
Hi, thx for your video! I'm trying to follow every step but failed already after verifying the firmware. Can't compile, message: wiring.c.o (symbol from plugin): In function `__vector_23': (.text+0x0): multiple definition of `__vector_23' sketch/heatbed_pwm.cpp.o (symbol from plugin):(.text+0x0): first defined here /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/5.4.0/../../../../avr/bin/ld: Disabling relaxation: it will not work with multiple definitions collect2: error: ld returned 1 exit status exit status 1 Error compiling for board RAMBo. Any idea?
That's a strange one, do you have the einsy library installed? Prusa changed that a month or so ago. b. Setup Arduino to use Prusa Rambo board definition Open Arduino and navigate to File -> Preferences -> Settings To the text field "Additional Boards Manager URLSs" add raw.githubusercontent.com/prusa3d/Arduino_Boards/master/IDE_Board_Manager/package_prusa3d_index.json Open Board manager (Tools->Board->Board manager), and install Prusa Research AVR MK3 RAMBo EINSy board
@@falcon7834 For the mini rambo you will need to use the rambo plugin, not the Einsy one. reprap.org/wiki/Rambo_firmware#Arduino_1.6.4.2B_Board_Manager_Plugin
@@stigberntsen9301 Making both on same print same setting and same cooling and same everything or there limitations if that's even possible! I can't find anyone that did that type of comparison.
@@xeon_one I have actually done that on my CR-10, I use the Petsfang, and tested both the MicroSwiss and the E3D v6. From my point of view there is next to no difference using either. Same temp on prints, same quality. If anything I find the MicroSwiss a tad better - at least when it comes to fitting it to the CR-10 (use the same mounting as the original)
@@ChrisRiley sorry Chris, you do a great job. But so many people have problems to compile Prusa firmware and then it is not working correctly. Had lot of questions about this topic that's why I think it is important to have a good guide how to do it. Walter with his tall MK had the same issue with Z showing "?" .
@@ChrisRiley that would be great because there is no explicit guide. From the little reading on the subject I've done. And definitely no video with files guide. Your videos are great man!
@@ChrisRiley running into compliation errors if you wouldnt mind, id relly appreciate it if you created and posted the hex file. By the way thanks for the quick replies you rock!
In file included from C:\Users\Ramon\Desktop\Prusa-Firmware-MK3\Firmware\Firmware.ino:33:0: c:\Users\Ramon\Documento\Arduino\Hex\sketch\Configuration.h:55:33: fatal error: Configuration_prusa.h: No such file or directory #include "Configuration_prusa.h" ^ compilation terminated. exit status 1 Error compilando para la tarjeta PrusaResearch EINSY RAMBo.
