Hey everyone, this new video about PrusaSlicer 2.6 alpha 4 is packed with comprehensive information about the awesome new features and improvements it brings to us. I really hope the video is so informative and cheerful that you'll be smiling from ear to ear! Don't forget to add your own comments and let me know what you think. And if you haven't already, make sure to hit that subscribe button so you don't miss out on any future content. Keep on printing!
Great video! How do I add auto bed levelling on the slicer, please! I'm used to Cura and, after watching your video, I downloaded alpha 5 and found it amazing!! I have an Ender 3 V2, by the way...
@Fabricio de Figueiredo If you want to execute auto bed levelling with each print just add the GCode G29 just after G28 in the printers Start GCode section. I don't do a bed levelling on each print. If you've levelled your bed it should be fine for the next couple of prints. It's only needed to do it again when you observe problems with your first layer.
By far my favorite feature we have so far is paint on supports. I just learned about them and I can tell already that they will make my prints so much quicker while reducing filament usage.
Hello Pneumatic. Thanks for commenting. The automatic paint on supports and the other features which help us to save material are why I put the lower case "r" upfront the Evolution. None of us want's to wait for prints to be finished. Therefore anything that can speed things up are very welcome. Not to forget the benefits for our purses and environment 🙂
This is the first video of you i ever seen. I subscribed right away! Never seen any other video of new prusa slicer version with so much in depth details including print results. I'm longing to see your other videos
Hi Hakan. Your comment makes my day! 😊 It's good to know that I'm on the right track with what I'm doing. I will continue providing interesting and informative videos for you, my viewers.
It almost has but I'm pretty sure we will see and get many more improvements. There's still ongoing research which brings up new techniques for slicing 3D models, as well as new 3D printers introducing new technologies.
Most of these have been in Bambu studio and the BL fork soft fever since last year. Adjustable cutting planes( adding dowels are new) Paint on supports that highlight overhangs by angle Tree slim, strong, hybird and wide supports(prusa calls them organic supports) It's great that that Prusa Slicer is adding them in alpha. I can't wait to see how the main release works out.
I'm looking forward to the final release, too. It's great to see that the innovations in 3D printing continue going. Hopefully making use a 3d printer as easy, or easier to use than a paper printer. The Bamboo printers look like a big step towards that as well as the continued improvements made to the slicers. It's impressive how they keep the complexity manageable! Thanks for sharing your thoughts :-)
@@3D_Printing_Geek Thank you for responding. I truly believe "A rising tide lifts all boats" and the 3d printing community is evidence of that. Nearly every small incremental change or large innovation can filter down to all of us.
got into 3d printing back in october 2022... like many.. went with CURA... but started using prusa slicer a few months ago... is a one way ticket now with 2.6
Hi Santiago. I've been using Cura for a long time. I still do but PrusaSlicer took over being my preferred slicer. I also check out some of the not so widely known slicers like IdeaMaker regularly to keep up with what they offer. IMHO which Slicer's best is hard to judge and mostly depending on ones taste and workflow. Thank you very much for your comment 😊
Hi @graphguy, thank you so much for your kind words! It means a lot to hear that my review of the latest alpha version was helpful to you. I'm always striving to provide thorough and insightful reviews, and I'm glad to know that my efforts are appreciated. Your feedback encourages me to continue providing valuable content and sharing my thoughts with others. Thanks again for taking the time to share your feedback, and I hope you continue to find my reviews helpful in the future.
Thanks! I didn't know about the templates. I this is really useful. I previously always had to manually edit the .json of my printer and mark it as a derivative of the MK3S to get access to all the filament profiles. Something I just discovered today is that in the settings there's a button next to Search with 3 gears that lets you compare print, printer, and filament presets. Not sure if that's new but that's pretty awesome as well.
Hi Maximum, that was what initially triggert me to make the video because that hadn't been mentioned or shown before. I didn't fiddle changing the .json, mainly because I didn't want to break working things by eventually messing it up. Nevertheless it felt always like a pain to define each new filament from the ground up while knowing that there already existed presets for them but which I couldn't use with my printer. The compare function isn't new but I agree that it's cool and useful, too. Thanks for mentioning it. I think many didn't know about it yet.
@@3D_Printing_Geek You can add "inherits = Original Prusa i3 MK3S" to the .ini file (sorry, not JSON) of your printer and then it will have access to all the filament profiles that the MK3S has.
just a heads up you can cut a model more than once so you only have flat surfaces to print on, Also the pins can be done as dowels and ensure both ends are flay on the bed with the pins printing separately.... That hulk in this video can even be printed in shorter time and less material than shown in the video from 9 hours maybe down to 5 hours. for me its not about the actaul time saved but i used it to break a large model down into printable sizes of 3 to 4 hours ( I can't do long prints as we have mandatory government instituted power outages during the day sometimes up to 4 times a day so I can only print about 3 to 4 hours straight without interruptions )
Hi Solo, thanks for pointing that out. Another commenter asked if it would be possible to cut multiple times and I explained in my answer how to do it. In the video I had a very conservative profile with just 40mm/s printing speed but it should almost linearly scale with the speed settings. In fact I printed the hulk with about 90mm/s, organic supports and lightning infill instead of grid infill. I don't have the numbers at hand but I think it took somewhat than 2 hours to print it.
Hehe, I was afraid of that. I'm glad you liked the video though being outdated for a few hours 😁 I added the link to Alpha 5 in the description. Looks like they're getting closer to a stable release.
Hello @marcushuneke2696, thanks for your comment. I remember that I had that same impression when I first went from Cura to try the all praised PrusaSlicer: my prints didn't look as good as before and like you I stuck with Cura for quite a while since that was my "comfort zone" but I also kept trying PrusaSlicer from time to time. Nowadays, after having tuned my printer profiles for my printers both slicers I mostly use PrusaSlicer and sometimes Cura. I think none of the slicers is "the best". I suggest always to go with what one feels most comfortable with since there's nothing worse than using a software that one dislikes or that does not produce the desired results. Talking of Cura I like some of the small improvements in their lates one especially the SmartBrim! As always: Happy 3D printing 🙂
I'm glad you enjoyed that video, too! To access the monotonic settings, go to the "Print Settings" tab and select "Infill" on the left side! Then, in the Infill section, you find two drop-down boxes "Top fill pattern" and "Bottom fill pattern". There you can choose "Monotonic", "Monotonic lines", or one of the other fill patterns.
Hello. Wonderful video. I am new to 3D printing and have been using Cura 5.3 with ny FLSUN V400 for about a week now. It looks like the Prusa slicer could be better and easier for me. Do you have (or know of) any videos about the Prusa slicer basic usage? I'll download Prusa slicer 2.6 and try to get it working, but it would be nice to have a little additional guidance available. Thanks again.
Hello Betty, Thank you for your kind words about the video. I'm glad to hear that you found it helpful. As for your question, I currently don't know of any real basic RU-vid tutorial on PrusaSlicer. However, I appreciate your suggestion and will take it into consideration as an idea for a future video series. In the meantime, I would recommend checking out the PrusaSlicer documentation and user manual. These resources should provide you with a good starting point for using the software. Best of luck with your 3D printing journey, and feel free to reach out if you have any more questions or concerns.
Hi Aaron. You can. When doing the cut make sure to select to cut as objects, rather than parts, because when you select parts, you can still move, rotate, or scale one of the parts but you can't cut it. When you did the cut choosing it to be separate objects, then each of them behaves independently. After doing the cut just select one of the resulting objects. Then you can use any of the tools to modify it, including doing rotations, or cutting that part further down. The cut tool is so mighty that it would deserve a whole video just about that single feature.
I noticed @15:52 that corner overhang actually appears to have been done with arc's as well, yet when you showed the print head movement it showed a more rectangle pattern? I assume the result (arc's for corner overhang) is the current accurate answer?
@15:26 is where it shows more of a rectangle approach being taken, which actually makes more sense to me. Yet the end result in the actual print was another arch technique and a sloppy fill in of the very corner's tip, since the arch could only do so much of a 90 degree corner
Hi @Hangs4Fun, yes, it looks as if the overhangs were printed as arcs in the video but they weren't. What I see though is that the filament had been draged away from the perfect rectangular shape, causing it to look more like a hexagon, and also causing some sloppy lines. I'm going to re-print that part and show the results in the community tab of my channel. Thanks for bringing that to attention 🙂
Yes and that is what the printhead should move like, too but printing sharp corners, especially when there's no support is a hard thing for a 3D printer. Let's see what I find out.
@JanSnijder You may want to check 2 things to make it work: In PrusaSlicer enable the checkbox "Allow downloads from printables" in the preferences dialog (Configuration -> Preferences -> Other -> Allow downloads from printables). Normally, when installing a newer version of PrusaSlicer 2.6 you'll be asked, if you want to register that one to handle Printables download links. Eventually, in you Printables account, you have to enable "Show PrusaSlicer button", though it seems they made the button generally active now., without the need to enable it in the profile Ik hoop dat ik je hiermee heb kunnen helpen en wens je veel plezier met 3D printen.
Now if only they can make organic supports compatible with adaptive layers! As of right now, if you turn on adaptive layers and select organic supports, it won't slice the object.
@ZooPaPhly That was one thing I found irritating, too. I assume that it has to do with the way organic supports are generated during slicing. The used algorithm may currently not be able to use varying layer heights. According to the change log of alpha 2 this is one of the current limitations of organic supports, which makes me think that the will try to add that in a future release. Thanks for adding that to the discussion.
Absolutely! To ensure the best printing results, there are a few specific aspects you should consider: Nozzle size: It's important to check and adjust the nozzle size according to your requirements. Extrusion width: You have the option to set it to '0' and let PrusaSlicer calculate the appropriate widths based on your nozzle size. This can be quite convenient. Layer height: Don't forget to pay attention to the layer height setting, as it impacts the overall print quality. Also, keep in mind that using a 0.8mm nozzle can significantly increase the amount of filament extruded compared to a 0.4mm nozzle (up to 8 times more!). As a result, it's recommended to adjust your printing speeds accordingly and be prepared for slower print times. Feel free to ask if you have any more questions or need further assistance. Happy printing!
@GriotDNB There may be several reasons why the supports are too strongly connected to the print object. With some materials, such as TPU, the supports often bond quite strongly with the print object. For other materials, reasons for a too strong bond can be e.g. a too high printing temperature, or a too small Z-distance. I'd suggest to do some test prints with reduced temperature and higher Top-Z-contact distance. Hope that helps.
It would be sad if it were not so. But when I think about the last release of Simplify3D, which only caught up with the competition and that as a paid update without offering any added value, then what Prusa and Ultimaker are doing is much better.
Hi LampDoesVideogame, thanks for your comment. It's true that you can do supports similar to the new organic supports in PrusaSlicer with Meshmixer but they don't seem to be as mature than what we have in PrusaSlicer now. Additionally, now you don't need an additional application, it's all in one, working well and almost a nobrainer. I would go with the new organic supports in PrusaSlicer and only use Meshmixer if I need to refine the model if needed.
@@3D_Printing_Geek In prints that only need supports in a specific area, just say for example the stones from fifth element... I'd say that's backward. And Prusa's aren't refined. Because Meshmixer only puts them where needed and doesn't start with a 20mm base. But it did also take me 4 months to learn how to use decently.
Hi Dane. I didn't want to cause confusion when showing the autopaint supports. So I stuck with the default at that point. The organic supports are covered later in the video, at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0zw__HXe-nw.html But of course for a real life print I'd combine whatever is offered to get the best speed, quality, material usage mix 🙂
Hey Nick, I know, I know, guilty as charged. I admit, the title may have been a bit clickbaity , but I promise the content won't leave you feeling burnt out. It's like a cool glass of lemonade on a hot summer day, refreshing and satisfying.
@@3D_Printing_Geek coincidences happen al the time, no offense. the logo jsut looks like the other channel, same color, same type, same layout. and the channel name as well.
😁 Oh, now that you say it... you're kind of right. I tried out a new Nvidia Broadcaster feature which seemed to cause that effect. Though it's lloking interesting. I appreciate you liked the video and hope to "see" you when I relesed my next one.
You don't have to compile it yourself. Just scroll down on the page to find pre-compiled binaries for Linux, MacOS and Windows (it's in the Assets section). For windows you can just unzip it to your desired location and execute the prusa-slicer.exe.
