If you're buying OEM controllers for PS2, only buy A-Type. Made in Korea are the best, China made are decent as well. If there's an H on the back, regardless of the country of origin, just move along. It may work for a little while but it will soon fail. Most of the time the failure point on the H-Type is the PCB. The PCB (printed circuit board) is the flexible plastic circuitry that contacts the buttons. It's not an easy repair because you'll need a brand new PCB (that will probably fail again) and it will require soldering skills to reconnect to the PWB (printed wiring board).
My controller has working start button, analog stick but all the other buttons are dead. First it had just R1 not working, I opened it, cleaned, put back together and it just got worse.
Can we appreciate that more than 36,000 people spent upwards of 24 minutes each to learn nothing about fixing a PS2 controller :) That's not far off TWO years of wasted time.
That wasn't wasted time. Good tips here for general controller troubleshooting, even though I already tried most of those before watching lol. But this video also verified that it's not worth it to go any deeper than that :)
This is such a great video! It's been super helpful! I've been learning to use a multimeter and felt a little overwhelmed on getting started. I figured I'd start by testing continuity on my broken controllers. I had two PS2 controllers, bought used, go dead on me. Opened them both. The SCPH-10010 A was just filthy inside. A good clean got it working again. The other, a SCPH-10010 H, is spotless inside. I've got a sneaking suspicion it's the same issue but we'll see. Also hoping to find out what with wrong with my Xbox One controller too. Thanks for taking your time to make and post this!
I had my controller for 20 years and today I was at the last boss of a PS2 game... and the controller shocked me and quit working. Not cool. Doesn't seem fixable from shocks? Unless you replace parts, and I have no idea where to even start on that.
FOR ANYONE WHO IS TRYING TO FIX THIS PAD: If it has got H on it then that green foil needs to be replaced with its socket, and if its "A" then propably cleaning will do. If not then also new foil will make the job done :)
Can you replace the sticks of an A with the sticks of an H and viceversa? I have an A that's all beat to shit but it works, the H is PRISTINE, but three of the buttons do not, already cleaned it and don't know what else to do except just use the board of an A with everything else from the H.
Main design flaw with practically alll variations of the the DualShock PS2 controllers is the tracer/contact membrane, the green part with all the contacts for the buttons on etc, they are the most common fault in these, most likely that’s what’s up
I saw you checking the voltage of everything, expect the cable. Always check the cable first. I have a controller that's "dead", just found the cable is broken from the inside (the wires).
I am currently baffled by this also, there are many types of ps2 pad where the membrane connector is different, some is just pressed on with a little sponge on the back of the pad, another then can be disconnected, and this one then which is permanently connected. I have found that this permanently connected one ALWAYS gives me an issue. others have been resolved simply by replacing the membrane. IMO i think it is a membrane failure as other pads with this "all buttons on" symptom is resolved by replacing the membrane. The fact sony have decided to make it so that these cannot be removed on these types of pad make me feel like they are just relying on the pad to fail over time so they would sell more pads and cannot be repaired easily with replacement membranes (cheap parts), only thing that makes sense to me. Whenever a ps2 gets sold in to me with a bunch of pads, 9x out of 10 most of the pads arent working. and you know what? sony have done gone down the membrane route again with ps5 controllers, had to fix one the other day with "all buttons not working" issue, sony have used the membrane pressed onto the board method, so if someone drops the pad that connection to the membrane loosens, making all of the buttons not work. It is just a matter of time before they fix this membrane in place permanently to the board so that it deteriorates over time just like these pads have
You have to replace the 19-pin ribbon cable / contact foil as this is defective. These foils are not repairable, they can only be replaced, after which the controller works again.
Yea, it's unfortunate. I think I'll just keep my eye out for another controller and swap the shells. Keep the rest of the parts for spares down the road.
@@stacyleith8629 Yeah, you're better off just replacing the film.. finding another PS2 controller that doesnt have a bad thumbstick will cost you way more in the end.
do you happen to know if the PS2 cable can be replaced with a standard ethernet CAT5 etc. cable ? i actually went through the same troubleshooting process yesterday night and nothing, my controller acts absolutelly the same, analog work, all other dead... kudos @Stacy Leith for the vid... it comes at least as confirmation that i did not miss something
@@oglinda8070 if the analog works but the face buttons and shoulders are dead then it's likely the plastic contact sheet that has something wrong with it.
I think PS2 controllers gotta be the worst controller ever made in terms of longevity. The design with that green contact membrane is obviously terrible. Buttons just go dead for no reason even when they’re clean and nothing was done to cause damage.
If you have this issue try slightly loosening the connection between the controller and the PlayStation make sure it's in there but gently wiggle it and it might work, for some reason it worked for me when encountering this issue!
You can actually (probably temporarily) repair the contact foil by using any old graphite pencil. See this guy's video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-An2KHgrm6cQ.html Doing what he does in his video will fix the controller if all buttons do not work, like yours in the video. You have to make sure you scribble on a thick enough layer of graphite to the contact(s). If you have a controller that only has one to some button(s) that are dead/unresponsive or very insensitive but other buttons work perfectly fine, you need to scribble graphite onto of the two vertical ridges that sit at the left and right edges of the contacts for the buttons. This will at least temporarily restore the button(s), but the graphite will probably wear off eventually after the silicone pad smushes against the contact when the button is pressed too many times. Which you will then have to re-apply the graphite. The reason it works is because the graphite adds electrical resistance to the circuit. If you have the older revision of PS2 controller with the contact foil being actually soldered onto the PCB, this is definitely better than trying to re-solder a new one on. If you have the newer revision of PS2 controller with the contact foil that isn't soldered on (thus being easily removable) getting a new contact foil isn't so bad. But, keep in mind that the contact area between the PCB and the contact foil can sometimes not be able to pressed down hard enough anymore because of a piece of foam that degrades over time. You can use a multitude of things like a thin layer of tape or something to restore enough pressure to be applied when the controller is re-assembled and the screws are torqued down.
Valiant effort! I pulled out an old PS2 yesterday and found my second near new OE controller has dead directional pad and L1 L2 buttons. So frustrating too when I opened it and it’s pristine inside and can’t diagnose what to fix.
This sounds wird, but i used a lead pencile, normal grey one, then "coolor" the conntact points. it works, lead is a good connductor so i guess that is what makes the difference.. (Rub it on where the buttons connect with the board..) on the connections points on the green board inside the controller..
@@tommycocacocke Thanks for the suggestion. Gave it a try today with high hopes. Coloured plenty of lead on the contacts for the L1, L2, and D Pad contacts, but alas, it didn't revive them. It's so strange that the hardly used controller has the problem. I found my other well worn in controller and all buttons work on it. Both have been kept in boxes in a cupboard away from heat and humidity. Will give up on this for now.
@@LamarlovesJesus how do you know that Jesus Christ died for your sins? How do you know that Jesus is the son of god or is God? So God wanted to wait a few thousand years and then sent his son to spread the new rules from god? Please don't tell me you think because the Bible says so, the Bible is the claim not the evidence.
My L2 and R2 buttons have both stopped working I’ve taken the controller apart and it was mint inside I’ve cleaned it all and still nothing it’s so odd just gonna buy a new one
I have 3 controller with the same problem only the joysticks and the square button work. In aliexpress I found membranes for ps2 But I'm not sure if it works. Maybe it's time to try ps3 controls
I tried opening up my PS2 controller to clean it and when I started to put it together the joysticks won't be in the middle they will tilt to the right
I have the same problem but all buttons work apart from square witch the system thinks the button is preesed but luckly it was sorted by cleening the pins from the plug But the others don't d pad and L1 L2 and R2 don't responed at all
For some reason, the buttons on PS2 controllers just stop working. Cleaning the contacts doesn't help, there's no problem with the cord or the flex circuit, they just die. Here, we have "bulk trash pickup" twice a year where people throw out tons of stuff. Over the years, I've brought home a pile of PS2 controllers and 3-4 of them have had at least soem non-working buttons. I once found two steering wheels and both of them had buttons that didn't work. When the buttons stop working, try cleaning the contacts. If that doesn't work, it's officially a parts donor. Use it to fix other controllers with other, minor problems.
Should be around 11k resistance across any of the dpad or abxy buttons if you put your probes on each side of the pad. When they get around 17-18k it's time to replace the film. Each pad button is a graphite resistor that gets bridged when the buttons flatten out on it. The start/select/analog buttons are the ones that are actually wide open, so since those don't work at all, you know it's not the resistors wearing out. My guess is, you have a fractured trace in the film or in the ribbon where it's crimped into the connector on the board. Replacement films are about $1 each. Haven't shopped the connectors yet, as I've only repaired the "A" models, which don't use the connector, not this "H" model (see the letter on the back placard by itself on the right)
I have 2 or 3 mint looking PS2 controllers that I got at thrift stores in a year or two span, five or so years ago. None of them fully worked and each had different sets of buttons working. Kept them all this time in case I found a fix but it seems like the fix is super difficult based on the comments. Guess I'll just keep the shells in case I find a working one that is fairly dirty.
@@kubabuksa How do you change it tho. I have this exact same controller in the video. My D-pad doesn't work. I see them super cheap online. But I can't even pull thid current one off. Is it soldered to the board? How is it attacked? Can't find anything online
I'm only 9:31 in but I noticed in his test the D-Pad didn't work and the analog stick did and also the LED was on. Likely the "mode" LED indicating it's in analog mode. So that's why the D-Pad didn't work. I'm assuming someone else pointed that out. That doesn't explain why the buttons don't work however. ...nevermind
Nice video. I have bought about 40 broken controllers recently and most of them are SCPH-10010 H controllers that probably have the exact same problem. Sticks working, several buttons/D-Pad dead. I have checked the comments and got some of these foils from Aliexpress. The number on it is SA1Q43-A. Are these the right ones? And how do I get the old foild off and put the new foil in? I guess I imagined it all to be a bit easier, but I can't just pull out the foil out of the connector on the board which did work with other ones (the A ones). At least it doesn't seem to work that way... can anybody help me? What else do I need to do? Any help would be much appreciated.
@SNeasy , these type of DS2s unfortunatelly don't have a zif/ribbon connector, for easy taking apart ... U need to desolder the old membrane from the board & install the new one, together with re-soldering the connector. I recently bought my 2nd PS2 Fat and the DS2 that came along has the same issues - analogues & D-Pad work, buttons do not. I couldn't find any visual prob, even after thorough inspection & cleaning of the internals, but i couldn't test the membrane with my multimeter either. The numbers - if help - are: KSA1Q40A (Board), SA1Q33A (Membrane). Good luck in your repairs & hope U will be able to fix some of those 40 DS2s ... Cheers
@Noob Tuber Ah! Well that is a problem beyond my current skill level if it can even be fixed. Ill just keep it as a part donor and for a shell swap assuming that the models are not as drastically different from their latter/earlier counterparts like the ps3 and ps4 controller models are.
Is the screw that holds down the circuit board in the inside the same type of screw that holds the shell of the controller together on the outside? I really can't get the inside one to budge and I'm worried about threading it
they arent the same the one that holds the circuit is smaller. its impossible to find any information about the size of the screws all i know is i need a phillips #00 to get them out easier. i was able to open most of the screws with a small flat head screw driver but probably damaged the screws in the process
well i got a strange problem with mine (tried to get my old slim back online), the controller seems to be working half, triangle, circle, up and left seem to be broken, opened it up, checked everything, cleaned the important parts, nothingchanged. the membrane did look fine, and i didn't find any breaks (ok i got to go in again and check below the shoulder buttons
@Felipe Oliveira im currently not even knowing if my ps2 is fine, i'd really need someone to take a look at it from the inside, i mean i took appart some laptops already but i'd be too affraid of my old friend there
I have multipul ps2 duelshock controllers and ps3. As well as Wiimote and Switch JoyCons which are all broken/unresponsive/drift, I really dont want to part with them as I hope some of the are fixable at least. I just don't have a clue what I'm doing when it comes to repairs!
regular old "Multimeter" something to measure electric continuidty (if both points where you poke your probes in have an electrical connection), voltage ..., go from "i will buy a new one if i forgot it at home" to "oh holy shit, i'd have to sell my soul to buy that one"
all is cool what you are showing, one question, how come controller is working on some game and on the other once its dead... had a chance to plug in my old slim PS2 and came accross the problem that I can play some game and controller does work, when the other titles controller doesnt... what an annoying experience!
I had my ps2 stored in its box on my closet for a long time, when I took it out to play the controller wasn't working, just the analog light turns on but none of the buttons work. I haven't used the controller so it's not wear, and it it's not dirty cause it's been in the box. I'm pissed off tbh
This video is a total waste of time. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that board. In fact there is almost never anything wrong with the board on DualShock 2 controllers. It's always the thin conductive circuit board that's absolute trash and needs to be replaced. Buy a new one or transfer it from a working controller and you're done.
i have exact the same controller in silver color and the same problem , if anyone have a solution to fix that , i appreciate it. by the way thanks for making such good video.👏👏👏
can somebody please help me i have a ps2 dualshock 2 controller all buttons work but the r1 button seems to be a bit pushed in.when i play a game and press the r1 button i have to press a bit hard on it to make it work. If someone knows a solution to this problem please let me know i would deeply appreciate it thank you.
@@TrueBlueSVT hey i fixed it i opened it up took off the shoulder buttons then put them back now the r1 button works smooth.turns out the r1 button was simply out of its place
Yeah those little plungers can make the whole shoulder/trigger assembly super fiddly if they get out of whack in there. I had a trigger that seemed to be fully intact but it kept getting stuck in the case, swapped it with another spare, works great now. Who knows?
I have a ps2 controller that every button works except for the dpad up and left, the response does not apply to the console what so ever, is there a possible fix for this?
