This is a great recent video about the whole TOKIN cap replacement thing. It would be great if you could give occasional updates on this system though - just to see how long this repair actually prolongs the system's life. The PSX forums thread says it's a permanent fix, but I don't want to be too quick to assume that.
Will do! I haven't gotten to use it much since fixing it as the bluray drive gave out, so once I get a replacement in, I'll be playing a ton of PS2 games and updating on the status of the console!
Gonna undertake this project probably this week. Haven't had the time to do it yet but I come back here often for a refresher since I'm a newbie with these kinds of fixes. Wish me luck!
Congratulations friend, you gave this old system one more chance! I would really like to hear in the future how the machine goes; hopefully it will run for a long time. So please keep us updated. The problem with this "fix" is... Like many people fail to mention, You applied hot air to the board in order to take the capacitor out. And the machine is working. Great. But because of that you can't be 100% sure why it is working again. Hopefully it was indeed the capacitor you replaced but... Nobody can say for sure. Lots of variables changed Thank you for the video in any case Cheers
Yeah those capacitors can take a lot of heat, fluxus very helpful though. If I'm not mistaken you can actually buy the same value capacitors in a slightly smaller form which would make it easier.
@@113odyssey I used ETPSF270M6E it's like 6 per NEC TOKIN. My PS3 was perfectly working but certain games would crash but replacing for the chips with these fixed it.
Hello Shawn Shakir excellent tutorial, it would be interesting to see if the Playstation 3 turns on already assembled and see how long it lasts on without problems. I have a Playstation 3 CECHE01 that was never opened, but in 2011 it failed with the yellow light and to this day I have time to repair it. Greetings!
@@Techbabblers thanks for the update. I mistakenly changed the tokins at the front part when in fact I should've replaced the tokins at the back part ☹️ I only had 20 caps the other day that's why I only changed the 4 tokins at the front and 1 tokin at the back. But still YLOD. Then yesterday I tried replacing the thermal paste on the RSX chips (I didn't reball it, idk how hahahah) and now it's working, but of course it just worked because of the hot air I applied to the RSX so yeah I know that it will just be temporary. I bought an FT232RL to specifically diagnose what really is the problem of my ps3, hopefully it's not the RSX 🤞
There is now a better way to diagnose where the fault actually is by checking error codes. There's around 90% chance that it's RSX issue on the BC console.
@@omardiaz3878 You mean Ps3 ? I recommend googling "syscon diagnostics ps3". It will produce an error code which will point you in the right direction of a faulty component. RSX issue, is the issue with the GPU, same old BGA or internal issues in the chip substrate. I recommend also checking latest pages of the NecTokin thread over at the PSX-place forum. Nectokin "fix" craze is difficult to stop and even harder to prove to people that Tokins rarely fail. Many will argue that "but I replaced it and it booted up", yes. Because actually when you are heating/scraping the board to replace tokins, the proximity to RSX is very close. Any type of microfractures in the solder balls might reconnect giving you a false idea that your PS3 is fixed, when in reality it will give YLOD again later on.
@@calyps0man so if this is the most recently researched method to resolve a YLOD, and lets say hypothetically it is an RSX issue, what would be the best method to fix it? I don’t suppose it would be as simple as reflowing the solder under the chip, I see that’s already been debunked for the most part. I’d also like to not have to reball it since I’m not that experienced.
@@calyps0man Viewed your vid and I appreciate your input on the issue man. However, I don’t currently possess the amount on experience or skill for that matter that’s required to carry out such a fix. Going the NEC/TOKIN route seems much more practical for my situation and many others as well. Besides, I’m not aware of any services that could carry out the procedure, and it can be very expensive! Shawn’s fix on the ps3 has lasted for 7 or 8 months now, which is pretty impressive.
One thing that forum post fails to mention is using capacitors with the correct ESR rating. The NEC TOKIN caps have an ESR rating of around 2 mOhms which is very low. If the capacitors you ordered have an ESR significantly higher than this then the system will likely fail to boot right away. If it works, it probably won't last long. I recommend these capacitors as they each have an ESR of 9 mOhms, and if you solder four together as you did in the video, they will run at 2.25 mOhms (9/4=2.25). This is near identical to the original spec of the NEC TOKIN capacitors. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/2R5TPE330M9?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduiLUMT26fG%252BMbWuSPLwM96B4KPJLmeHk9%252BteYzhrB6vYA%3D%3D
Thanks for the info. I would like to know though why you are the only one who seems to say this specific information. In the forum post, and on some other comments, 470uf 6.3v SMD SMT Tantalum Capacitors (AVX) are recommended even if they seem to be overkill and not as close as the NEC/Tokin models. I think it was based on the other repair for Toshiba Laptops. I just want to know specifically why you think the Panasonic model you posted is better. 😊
Thanks for the info, if it does give out in the foreseeable future, I will give those Panasonic caps a go! These were honestly the kit that I saw on eBay when I first found the thread, so I had assumed they were the ones that were recommended, but its good to see more research being put into this repair!
I get why you only did a certain amount at a time, however if you want no more ylod in the near future you might as well replace all of the nec tokins with the tantalum ones.
Yep, that's what I have been reading. I'm also trying to get another console to look into reading the error codes to find out more about all these breakthroughs with the PS3!
That's just wishful thinking, YLOD can happen because of other reasons as well. Also you don't need to replace them , you can just add tantalum next to tokins.
Nice video! Just wondering if there's a way to simplify or neaten the soldering job? Instead of soldering +- of the caps directly would it be possible to just solder wires to either side then into the holes in the board? Then just glue them down?
Don't. Low ESR (equivalent series resistance) is the reason these tantalum capacitors work well; by adding wires you'd increase resistance significantly and reduce the cap's effectiveness.
Need help Regarding Fat PAL PS3 60GB model, So I have a Problem I hadn’t used my PS3 fat in 3 months but today I booted it up(meanwhile this darn AC was turned on in the same room in the background) and was playing for 1 hour and a half and turned it off for about 10 minutes before turning it back on 3 seconds into the boot up screen and I turned off my AC At this Exact moment my Ps3 shutdown for some reason and I panicked and it started doing this exact red light of death and won’t turn on anymore come to think of it in the past also it would randomly shut off between gameplay 2 or three times making a red light but then it would turn on fine so I didn't pay much attention to it. So I’m guessing this might be a power supply issue or capacitor issue🤔if not then I’ll be really depressed. “Retro” games and old games are really rare in my country and eBay died 2 years ago here so There really is no one trustworthy enough here to be handed this old console.I found this PS3 Fat a year ago on my local craigslist by a stroke of luck! And bought it for $130. It’s always really dusty inside(and it was at the time of purchase too) although I had CFW installed on it So I turned up the fan speed so the temps don’t go higher than 61C. I hope my PS3 isn’t dead. 💀 My Last Questions is : Can a 17-year-old Brat like me do this fix even though I have never had any kind of soldiering experience and never messed with flux whatsoever? All I have ever done is replace the thermal paste on my PHATBOY.
