Hi Graham! Nice to see that I'm not the only one that had problems reversing wagons across setrack points! The problem is that if Peco made setrack with the curves required to satisfy medium radius streamline points, you'd require a much larger area to lay the track, which sort of defeats the purpose of setrack! I'd be happy for them to put warnings on the packets of setrack points though, explaining what their pitfalls are! I'd also like to see manufacturers be more honest about the radius of curve their rolling stock can handle! Anyway, great to see that your testing went well! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, yes I Know your right but it is frustrating, I have learnt my lesson LOL but it is a shame others will be in the same boat, the only thing is to earn some extra money I may have to sell the one's I have, many thanks for your comment...Graham
The test all went well Graham. Good to see everything running as it should. I too wonder why PECO use the first radius curves and points in starter kits (so do Farish in their sets because PECO make the track for them I think). I think the problem is that newer models can’t handle first radius in the way older models could. For the wagons it maybe the bigger wheel flanges kept things on the track better and people with Minitrix older Poole Graham Farish, or old PECO locos don’t seem to have a problem on first radius and those who use Fleischmann track and locos say their engines cope with first radius easily. The problems of set track was one of the reasons I decided on Code 55 from the start even though it requires a bit of work to get used to using flexitrack. Stephen
Hi.. Thanks for your comment Steven, I do sometimes wonder why we spend so much money on these thing only to find out we are doing it wrong, or we have bought the wrong thing, as for the set track points they do have there place if you are building a narrow gauge railway they probably are good, but peco should at least by now be making all newbees know that for n gauge medium radius is the why to go, but at least for now I seem to be making some progress...G
I've been buying HO and N switches of every brand since around 1980 including the cheap and deluxe lines except Bachmann fasttrack and the only brand I have had 0 problems with is the KATO switches except the #4's need a bit of tuning but I mostly avoid them anyway. I've always been able to make all brands reliable with some work, but I agree it shouldn't have to be that way. My Lionel switches of every generation have always just worked. Not sure why nobody has ever made bulletproof HO and N switches. Glad to see a new video by the way.
Hi.. thank you for your comment, it's nice to know that some else has problems as well LOL, I was being to think I was was not up to building this layout, but I think its starting to get there now, or at least I am....G
