Olivia, if you need to crawl under your car, use card board from a large shipping box. You can slide around on it and it gives you a little padding. Works great.
Man I still think this car Oliva is really nice! Please don't make it a gasser! that would be tragic if you did! Take those lowering blocks out of the rear. Buy yourself a new brake booster. You also need to check your vacuum going into the brake booster on the car, it may not have enough going into it! Love you guys! Great video!
Same here. I could have bought a very nice 55 in 1979 for $500 and my parents talked me out of it too. That taught me to keep my nose out of my kids' business.
I rarely watch videos this long but I watched every bit of this one. Your videos are always excellent. Just the right amount of humor, knowledge, tech and some hands on wrenching, without all the fake drama. It doesn't hurt that you're very likable people. I do hope you make a video of the brake problem and fix, I feel invested. I'm saying brake booster. Thanks for putting out the excellent videos you guys do. I'm sure I'm not the only person who wants to thank you for putting quality videos
When you check the brake system, make sure the pushrod from the pedal to the brake booster, has enough travel. There should be another rod that goes through the booster and contacts the piston on the back of the master cylinder. Not sure about that spacer, looks a bit hokey. Like the booster and the master cylinder were adapted to fit each other . Even though you guys cracked open the brakelines to bleed the master, i never really saw a good volume of clean brake fluid squirt out. Also being this brake system is made up of a bunch of parts from different applications, make sure that , if you pull back on the pedal it will not pull the rod out of the booster, don't rely on the brake switch as the limiter, make a solid stop. You have a nice hoist , so do your bleeding with the wheels off the ground, then once there bled you can spin the wheels and test them . Good luck , great looking car !
Yes the clearance between the actuator rod and the main piston on the master cylinder should be minimal. It should not be tight but just a small clearance. This gives a proper stroke to actuate the brakes. Found that out the hard way back fifty years ago when I replaced the master cylinder on my 69 Chevelle (standard brakes). Could not get the system bled out as there was not enough push on the master cylinder piston due to excess clearance between the rod and the piston. If the system is power bled then that discrepancy does not show up but when you try to manual bleed the system it is a real bear. Power brake systems do not have that problem but there are different rod lengths and they should not be mixed up.
Make sure the brake booster behind the master cylinder is connected to a vacuum line on the engine. The black line attached on the left side of the booster has to be secured to a vacuum or no power and no brakes.
It's got some bug's to work out those 5.3 engines are tough new plugs and wires will fix it that is one clean 56 underneath and you that look on your face when it fired up was priceless you look so beautiful in it ❤
Make sure nothings in front or in back when you fire it up again. You might want to put your helmet on too Olivia lol. Only damage I could see was to Danny's arm. Glad you guys can laugh about it. Be safe.❤
Thanks for the Video... OMG...I know the feeling. My Chevelle had been sitting for a while. I did start it and run the engine but it was on a Non-Op, so it was jus sitting in the Driveway. I needed to move it back a few feet, so I got in and started it up, put it in reverse...let the clutch out and straight out the driveway into the street...NO BRAKES...Good thing nobody was going down the street. It bounced off the curb across the street and stopped... Man was I lucky. Master Cylinder had failed....😳😳😳
Yes true maybe rebuild the master cylinder hone it out and install new kit then bench bleed it then bleed lines out! You were trying to bleed out on side of the master cylinder that's a no no!
Power brakes strike again. Peddle feels one way with car off then when you turn it on they feel totally different. Either use a vacuum pump or bleed them while car is running. Also check rod length to make sure you have proper engagement when Liv was pumping there was a weird clicking noise that makes me thing there to much free space between rod and master.
Ahh… the joys of backtracking someone else’s work. You guys are getting it done though, you’ll be driving it (and hopefully stopping it🙏) Real soon! You won’t won’t be able to wipe the smile off your face when you get to make your first drive. Put some electric fans on that thing and it should be a nice little cruiser.
This car isn't a gasser, it's a very nice cruiser, and once it's done you can drive it anywhere just like a modern car. There is no way someone daily drove this car for over a year unless they did and then tore it down. They obviously sold it to you unfinished.
Put the rear on jackstands to test the brakes. If you step on the pedal then start the engine the pedal should go down. If it doesn't there is a booster problem.
The throttle Body rattle is a de-icing thing that it goes through. Hook up a scan tool and clear the codes out and you will be dialed in. Might need to do a throttle body relearn but no big deal.
Fuel tank should have a barrier between tank, and straps so bands won't wear a hole in tank from straps. They usually use a thick felt tar looking material thats wider than the straps a little bit for anti-chaffing and use it on top of tank where it comes in contact with trunk floor pan.
I had a fuel pump that worked off of the cam. I would have started on the front , but then I seen the new tank. So i’m going to see how you do figuring it out. I enjoy all of you guys videos. My first car was a 57 Chevy 210 body . I was born in 1958. As yes took many of naps under my Chevy.
Engine maybe missing. But not hearing lifter or any disturbing noises in it. Sounds like a tune up is necessary. And of course fix the brakes. Olivia and Danny looks like you made a great choice in that 1956. Would not be worried about your decision. You guys will get it. Thanks for sharing! 💯👊👍💕
people who want to check for brake pressure go to each line each wheel !crack the right rear ,left rear, passenger front and drivers front bleed each wheel cylinder before you do any major work to the master cylinder ! FYI 👍🏿👍🏿😎
I believe thats a new master cylinder is new but never bench bled. When you bleed on the vehicle should bleed through the bleeders ports on master rather than the brake line "B" nuts on the actual line. You needed to bleed that master cylinder before you install it much easier on bench to bleed air out, because you end up introducing air into the lines you end up bleeding for ever. When you ever start rolling and no brakes go for emergency brake.
Cool car. Bummer about the brakes. Wonder if there's enough manifold vacuum for the booster? Super lucky no damage to the car from the wall. 5000 pound car vs arm. Ouch!
I may be missing something here but you bought a car, an old car that didn’t run an in the process of getting it roadworthy, you use junk/used parts. WTH ! Being budget conscience is one thing and it has its place but being cheap on a safety issue is dumb. The up side is you were not on a public road in traffic. Think about what you are doing and who you are putting at risk. One of the first things that should have been done is verify you have a fully functional brake system...period. No BS, it should have had wheels pulled, all lines and fittings checked then each corner should have been stripped to check wheel bearings then a full check of each wheels braking mechanics. Make certain the thing will stop...end of story. Once that is done then see if the engine will run. As you saw, it doesn’t matter if you have a working engine if you can’t stop the thing. The car will be nice but because you bought it from a seller that had no idea what he/she was doing puts the entire vehicle in question. I have worked on cars for many years and have never thought about getting it on the road as you are doing. This can be a fun project on a good looking 56, not rusty and crusty. Don’t rush, take your time and enjoy the process. Have fun and mostly stay safe.
Maybe you should watch the video, the new one that was on the car first wasnt working, so they tried replacing it with an old one they had, to see if they had a bad master cylinder.
This master cylinder swap is a prime example of cheap. Brakes dont work so you start at the beginning. The cost of a new master cylinder is the price plus time to pick it up at parts store. Cars especially older cars are mechanically simple. Start at the primary end of any system and work toward the other end. This is supposed to be a speed shop which also inferes the shop can make the car stop as well. Parts in all stages can fail. The idea is to limit that possibllity. When rolling backward as shown in the video, the car should have been shifted into a forward gear to reverse the momentum. The point being they had a suspected bad part on the car and instead of buying a new part, a used part was installed. It takes about the same length of time for either install so was the plan to use the old master cylinder or change it after testing ? If that was the intent then you doubled the installation time to save a few dollars which would get spent anyway. If you are a seasonal farmer in remote Iowa or someplace like that where stores are miles and miles away and the car can be tested on your own farm property, maybe one can make a case for working cheap. The actions shown on the video can not be justified. No one was seriously hurt so maybe think about how things could be different today had Danny gotten pinched between the wall and car. Think about another driver driving bejind Olivia then not having brakes. All bad possibilities to save a few dollars on a part. This is a youtube channel. Try not to injure or kill yourselves or others. Stay safe.
Danny, I don't know if you realize it, but you are amazingly patient, a very good mentor. Good thing too, because if you get too lippy with a Canadian girl she can take you north of the border and abandon you in a Prairie field in a blizzard!
In most cases, the master cylinder should be bench bleed 1st...than installed and all wheel cylinders than bleed. Vacuum/Auto bleeders work great for one person bleeding.
Hey guys, what you need to know on the tri fives with that brake booster set up the clevis hole on the pedal needs to be 1 inch lower than the factory hole. This is something that all the try five guys do this will give you the correct pedal ratio.
I am pretty sure that there were no brakes because you never put the cover back on the master cylinder. These are hydraulic and require pressure. Without the cap you are just pouring fluid everywhere once the car is running.
Why didn't you use the bleeders that are on the master cylinder when you started? Also always start at the right rear, your rear brakes will determine the height of the pedal. Always wait a few minutes after bleeding each wheel, if there is any air it compresses and you won't feel it for a few minutes after bleeding.
It's better that this happens now then when you driving down the road! I saw that you kids had a good pedal. Olivia, you are talking this quite well. You and Danny will get the 56 sorted out! Keep us in formed on the issue at hand. Remember, this could happen to anyone of us that work on our rides. Thanks for the video! And no,you are not buffoons. A fine couple, making videos, sharing them with your subscribers! Both the good and the bad. Keeps you humble..
Thanks Phillip! Appreciate your comment very much. I think a lot of people don't realize how much courage it takes to upload your mistakes for the internet to see. We are going to fix it properly and hope to have it road worthy soon.
The gas line that goes inside the tank is a different kind of gas line is made to be submersible in gasoline some people just put regular gas line on there and it's not the right line ! 😲🙈🙉🙊 But it's an easy fix but before you install the fuel pump make sure it works 🤞🏿 put power to it, 12 voits😮
I love the fact that you two genuinely use words like “dang” and “darn” to keep things G-Rated for the channel, but when a classic is headed for a wall, bumper first, the adrenaline hits and it’s “ how fucked up is my bumper?!?!”
Hey! You guys are off on a very good note, you got that little chevy running I see.(fantastic!) Can't wait to see that little baby rolling and stopping. Man I'm enjoying this😊 until the next time.
My dad & I were driving my brother's truck home & we found out it didn't have good brakes either. My dad & his friend fixed it only to have my brother blow the motor. But now after many years we're fixing it up right. It's still not road worthy but it will get there. So I know( I think all car people) know your struggle. The silver lining is that it starts now. Stopping it is the issue now. You guys will get it though. Can't wait to see it on the road.
I had to mod a sender, found gates make submersible hose, might be worth it for the long haul. I personally didnt want to have to drop the tank again down the line.
I would be REALLY opposed to swapping in a used master cylinder, even if it did 'work when we took it off'. BTW, you ALWAYS bench bleed these to get all the air out, especially on a vehicle where it sits at an angle like that. There's always air trapped in the front of the pistons because of the angle. Even so, I wouldn't trust it after sitting dry for any length of time. Just get a new one and be done with it. Also check the travel on the pushrod in the booster and make sure it's pushing the piston all the way in (and releasing completely when the pedal is all the way up). It if doesn't release completely, it won't uncover the holes in the reservoirs to let fresh fluid into the cylinder. (very important!). Considering what I've seen so far, I'd go through the whole brake system, and replace hoses and wheel cylinders/calipers, as needed. It's not too bad if they don't go, but when they won't stop, it's a lot worse, as you just found out!😳💀 Looking forward to more adventures with your new ride. Take care y'all!😉
Oh my, after reading the comments!! People think they know what the problem is and everything y'all are doing is not right. Lol I was a mechanic for many years and I seen nothing wrong with what y'all were doing. Trolls online! Y'all just keep on doing what ya doing. Love ya channel! Y'all are awesome!
To be more specific, the rod between the brake pedal and the booster is most likely 3/16" too long. I'd recommend getting an adjustable rod, and set it about 3/16" of a inch shorter than the rod you take out. I had the exact same problem on a Ford truck, and that's how I fixed it.
Like SO MANY others have said, "BENCH BLEED THE MASTER CYLINDER." Ask me how I know. The angle it sits at is textbook for trapping air. I made the same mistake with my Corvair. HOURS spent bleeding, using a vacuum devices etc. (nothing worked) and simply removing the cylinder setting it LEVEL in a vice, holding my fingers over the outlet ports, pumping it a few strokes (letting the air and fluid bleed out past my fingers) and my HOURS of strife were eliminated. Just make sure the MC doesn't empty too far and briskly install it to avoid trickle down of the fluid. It would also seem practical to ensure that the rod coming out of the booster is of the proper length. But if it matches that of your old booster and the depth of the old and new MC are the same then it likely is correct since the 'old and the old' did work for you prior.
Man Danny’s sexual jokes about the sending unit had me chuckling and then your guys’ reaction during and after it going into the wall had me cackling. Good sports and just part of having old cars. Ps I know you weren’t to hot on that interior but I think it is so cool! Would work perfect for your 60s gasser vision
Guys get yourself some decent side card board u'll thank me better then any cheaper I also use carpet roll it out underneath bat cardboard easy slideing
The same thing happend to me with my 65 impala it scared the life out of me kids were walking home from school down the street and same thing breaks were working then NOT and she rolled back I could of hurt those kids think God I didn't. I'm happy yall are ok and her car is OK my daughter is 13 and she loves yall now she wants a 56 bless her heart
Keep up the great work. Yall are some awesome people and couple. I just love yalls channel. Yall are a trip and funny as hell sometimes. Lmao. Anyways keep up the great content. And much love to you guys from Maryland❤❤❤.
Brake hoses can go bad and then not build any pressure too. Maybe this master cylinder is bad also? Will be fun to see what you find out when you take the wheels off.
Brakes act like the caliper are reversed right side on the left left on the right, is the bleeder screw at the top . Car has a lot of potential, good luck.
