God forbid your not a professional cameraman but the folks will happily take your ideas, your instructions and run with it. Reading You Tube comment sections is worse than working in a customer service call center. People are BEYOND rude. Thank you, sir, for your info. I dont care if your camera is at a 45 degree angle if you provide info I need. Thanks again
Before piercing the poly for the zip ties, use wide invisible tape on inside and outside first., then make your hole. It will keep from stretching the hole
The poly would normally be fastened to the timber crosspiece and door uprights on the ends of the tunnel. Pvc tube isnt rigid enough to allow for correct tensioning of the poly which is why hoops are made from steel. A poly covering that resembles a wrinkled sock wont last as long as one that is drum tight...
I built a similar hoop house last fall. The rebar is a must have imho. It really stabilizes the bottom of the hoop house. My advice is to have the rebar sticking at least 1 foot out of the ground or even higher if you can. The longer pieces of rebar help add height to the side walls of the hoop house and give you greater growing vertical width inside of the greenhouse. Your side walls end up being straighter and taller giving you more growing space. My hoop house was 8Lx8Wx8H and the walls didnt start curving until it hit 4 feet high. Taller = more growing space. Also, regular clear box tape with hold the poly roof down to the side walls. No need to poke holes in the poly roof and use twist ties. Just use plenty of clear box tape.
Also u can use an old trampoline.. Disconnect it in half, flip it and u got 2 arches, use the legs for cross bracig for the roof, it took me two old trampolines with legs, to make a 12' long × 7' wide and 8' high perfect for what i intended, Great video man 👊🏼😎
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info only - I buy my clear poly from greenhouse supply stores online, I can get 9 mil or 12 mil plastic that lasts 6 - 7 years in the hot southern summer sun. the 6 mil from box stores only lasts about 2 years here, 12 mil costs a little bit more but lasts a lot longer. I use cattle panels from tractor supply to form the hoops they give much more support to the plastic, it is faster and easier to assemble and makes a very strong framework. cost me about $500 to build a 12 w x 24 l x 90" high at the peak using this method. The 90" height framed in on both ends allows for installation of a storm door I bought at a salvage store for $25. I also bought 2 used storm windows to go in the other end from the door, I use them for ventilation when needed. I installed temperature controlled foundation vents on each side of the door. they open when the inside temp reaches about 50 degrees and allow air to flow in at a ground level and help push hotter air out the storm windows on warmer days.
Hello Roy. Your installation sounds nice. Do you think it would be possible to have a picture of your greenhouse? I am planning on building one to grow flowers.
If you can afford 2x10’s that is the way to go. Then you can raise the dirt level. I’m working on one right now and going to make video of measurements. Thanks for the video you made. God bless.
Clear 4" boxing tape work really well with the poly. I used only tape on mine, no zip ties. Its held all fall, winter and spring so far. I get it at the dollar store for a buck per large roll...
If you plan on planting in the ground, lay poly down all around the outside of the greenhouse so that the soil is heated and will allow the soil in the greenhouse to retain its own heat during the day and overnight. If the ground outside of the greenhouse is allowed to cool, it will suck the heat from the soil inside of your greenhouse and negate your efforts.
Good morning one & all from beautiful Quadra Island and Esquimalt, BC. Now that I'm 76, I was to fully retire this year, until I saw these folks & others attempting to create sheltered environments, to extend the growing season in mild climates such as ours. In addition to my horticultural background, I have experience as a designer-builder from a Journeyman Carpenter's point of view, so I'm offering some insights from 50 years building these and traditional greenhouses. Nothing in life is easy if one wishes to do it well in durable, efficiently functional ways in a variety of environments. Nothing. It appears that the goal of these fellows was to put up a 2nd or 3rd low-cost temporary crop shelter, but they don't seem to have prepared even basic working drawings. Without a basic plan, it's difficult to work in co-ordinated way, especially if there are 2 or 3 people involved. So a simple plan is Step #1. Step #2 is working drawings based on lessons from the first structures. At 21:45, the crew lead says they've had problems in the past creating entries, but now they have a new product which they'll use to see how it goes. Your take on this may be different than mine, but I would've tested it at least once before taking it into the field, especially if I'm making a training video!
I've had a large PVC greenhouse for 2 years now. The following are facts, not opinions. PVC is not a good material for the hoops. Sure it's cheap initially. But if it directly contacts the plastic it will deteriorate the plastic within months. So the PVC must be separated from the plastic sheeting with tape or some other means. White PVC for plumbing is not UV resistant and it will break down after 1 or 2 years. Gray PVC conduit is more UV resistant but still deteriorates the plastic. The PVC gets very brittle in cold weather and fatigue cracks easily. In order for the PVC hoops to stand up to snow load, an internal support beam and posts need to be added. Strong winds put a side load on the structure...without proper bracing this will cause the PVC hoops to fail (happened to me). Once you do all the things to address these issues you've spent so much time and money that it would have made more sense to build it out of steel hoops in the first place. Like I said, I've lived it. I spent many hours repairing the PVC hoops. Do it right, do it once!
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fJfbqk5RfRA.html -> $658 with end walls 6mil plastic and wooden support beams. Still far less than proper metal hoop house would cost sq ft to sq ft
Awesome idea and execution. Of course you always see solutions or ways to make your idea better after you complete the job, but it just give you reason to do another one right! Thanks for the info!
I love the design , and I know you are trying to build it as cheap as you can , but I'm like you 2/6 on the outside dia of the house is what I would do , and I would use bigger pipe for the frame , and I would frame in the Ends , the zippers are awesome , would work great for a window for air , I'm not criticizing I love what you have done here , I love it but me myself. Would beef it all up and double layer the plastic and put a solar fan between the layers so I would have a dead air space , but you are awesome sir Thanks for the video
Much to learn from this vid. Some are what not to do, some are reminders about keeping things simple. Cheap and quick is in fact cheap and quick. If I had 8 hours to chop down a tree, I'd spend 7 hours sharpening my axe. Abe Lincoln.
Would it be a good idea to install one zipper on the outside and the other on the inside, so we could close the door and be able to get out as well? My 2020 project! Thanks, everything is very well explained, great result.
sometimes going cheap actually costs more in the long run. This construction plastic from the box stores will degrade quickly because it is not designed for outdoor/greenhouse use. The white plumbing PVC pipe also off gasses and will damage the plastic where it touches and is also not UV stable. For those looking to build a greenhouse, use greenhouse plastic from a greenhouse supply company and use electrical/gray pvc pipe or steel electrical conduit for the structure. Both are UV stable and will not degrade with sun exposure. The gray PVC will not damage your covering. You can purchase tape that protects the poly covering or paint the white PVC but that is very time consuming. Also don't use zipties and make sure staples are stainless steel. They are also not uv stable and will degrade and break when exposed to elements. A greenhouse of this size should cost a minimum of $1000 and it will last you for many years...4+...I have heard some people getting 6 years and more. The way he built this one, it will last a year if he is lucky, the plastic blocks critical light spectrum's, the wood base will rot quickly if it is in contact with the ground and all the labor will be down the tubes and necessary to repeat next year.
Mostly good comments but my experience with the gray PVC is different. Mine did damage my plastic sheeting (which is 4 year rated greenhouse film and has otherwise held up great). In areas that get snow, I strongly recommend going straight to steel hoops (chain link fence top rail). I agree that the way the greenhouse was built in the video will not last long. I don't like to leave negative comments but I think prospective builders should know the truth before they waste a bunch of money and time.
I build one of these 12x20' and it worked great . except it wont stand up to wind or cold first winter shredded it and had plastic all over the backyard the trees and the field. 8mm plastic was expensive and didnt hold up I recommend the flexible panels that I have now 2 more winters no problems.
I made a similar hoop house for my rabitry. I used the zippers and spray adhisve to adhere plastic to PVC pipes. When I got holes, I just spray glued patches over them.
OMG... I actually remember seeing your PVC greenhouse video... And yes, it stands out cause of your orientation when filming...🤣 But it's all good. You live & you learn. Thanks for sharing again.
No ridicule intended, but offering a few tips .1) needs treated lumber next to the ground .2) you can use wood framework for end gables, therefore framing in a door /window . 3) anytime you poke a hole through plastic, you're inviting a tear that the wind will absolutely ripped apart. But overall y'all did a great job!
You should be using treated wood since it's almost and probably will be touching the dirt so it wont rot out so quickly.I watched a different video where the guy used grey pvc instead of the whites.The grey is designed for outdoor use unlike the white your using.There are also plastic clips you can use so you don't have to zip tie it.In strong winds it may tear where the zip ties are at.If you were to use a tee connector where you want the door to be you would add strength where the door opening are and have something to connect to.Could have also used the tees for the base to connect the pvc too and used rebar to stake it down to the ground.The video I watched,now it was a dome and I know this is larger but he built it without counting the plastic for under 100 bucks.
Heat a nail "Hot" then puncture your hole, this seals the plastic and helps it from tearing.. Better yet, you can run two pieces of rope kris-crossed between each hoop and anchor the ends, this will eliminate puncturing the plastic and the use of "zip ties".. The rope will firm up the plastic and eliminate flapping almost completely and last so much longer against high wind..
Thanks for the video, gave me ideas about what I want to do to build my greenhouse. Just one criticism......say it with me........tripod..... it's much easier to do what you need to do and keep the camera steady and showing the viewers what you want to show them if you mount your camera/phone on something to hold it. After all the thought you put into building this second greenhouse....you would think that a stable camera would have been on the list.
I think how long this type of construction lasts depends on your climate. I'm in Zone 8 Maritime and our pvc pipe/film hoop house is on its fourth summer. The film is UV rated vapour barrier (with white lettering on it - ugly!) and the structure is dismantled and stored during the winter as we mainly use it to give warmth-loving crops a bit of a head start and keep summer rains off the tomatoes (problems with late blight). When I want something year-round I'll probably go for a sturdier frame - winds can be a bit of a problem in our area.
Would it help if you put tape on both sides of the plastic sheeting before you poke a hole through it and then use the zip tie? I would think that would give it much more strength so it wouldn't be as prone to stretch out and possible tear when you snug it up with the zip ties. Thanks for the info, the video and for sharing your knowledge. God bless ya
Found it hard to pay attention to this video. There are a lot better videos out there. However still educational. I'm currently trying to find the best design for me. This isn't the design I will be using but thank you for making it and I appreciate that you uploaded this in hope's that this is the perfect design for them. Happy growing!
I really enjoyed watching this video and has given me some great ideas for my new hot house thankyou very much from Australia,it was only by accident that l found your channel
If your building your first green house and are not really a builder type i would suggest using the cheap box store plastic ...your gonna learn...a lot.
I tried something similar. While it is gratifying to get the house up in a day for cheap, it is depressing to see it fail in a windstorm with your tomato crop inside becoming ruined. It happened to me with a smaller hoop house of similar construction. Also the zippers didn’t work too long. In addition, you will get two years max out of that type of plastic. Then it will start to crack and crumble into micro plastic pollution. Small removable pvc hoop house/cloche type structures worked pretty good for me though. PVC and row cover works good too.
Tried the cinching method that you used for the back end. By the end of the year there were thousands of dead bees and pollinators trapped in the folds of the plastic
Don't know how true it is and/or to what extent, but I've been told plumbing PVC isn't UV resistant but furniture grade and electrical PVC conduit are.
Add additional layers of poly to the roof and walls. The thicker the poly, the more heat retention you get. More layers = more stable temps in a winter greenhouse. I would have a minimum of two layers and even more, if the poly is less than 4 mils thick.
Seems like you're heading in a decent direction however that plastic likely not last more than about 1 1/2 seasons is it makes it that far I would be surprised that mean he can use your example to build a considerably more stable and long lasting greenhouse. Thanks for the edification.
use some three foot or better metal anchors to bottom frame...holding the frame to the ground....then build up...also becomes an electrical ground as well...
Thats brilliant! I think i will try it. I don't have any experience cutting poly, However, If you had put the piece of tape on the poly 1st and then poked a hole in it to secure the Zip ties, Do you think it would have stretched less and made a bigger hole less?. You know and just Poke your hole through the tape and the poly of the same time.
I made a greenhouse just like this, but I want to warn anyone using PVC where it snows- it breaks under the weight of snow. Like the Zipper, pretty cool and this would work great where no snow. We had to reinforce the PVC frame with wood and still the snow pushed in from the sides as the snow built up.
Would it be a good idea, or a bad idea, to double up on the plastic layers? Like just have two of the sheets, back to back. Would that double the insulation? My hope would be that I could keep peppers alive for a whole Canadian winter.
Best way to stretch plastic over a hoophouse is when it is summer and warm. And a doorway made of wood with a door for entering the greenhouse would be a much better solution. Building cheap ofte turn out to be the most expensive.
19:55 Couldn't you take a piece of pipe, cut it down the length to create an 'open' pipe and then put that C shaped piece onto the the pipe in order to afix the rolled up excess onto the ribs? (pipe on pipe)
Do you think its possible to use a flat piece of plastic to put over the plastic for zip tie to go through to keep from ripping the clear. Thanks for this post I think I'll add this
Never, never, never use regular lumber in contact with the ground. Always use ground contact pressure treated lumber. Instead, use some straight concrete landscape block around the perimeter. The rebar is a good choice.
So I watched this then, I'm back and II have a question on pests which I would like to ask. How do you cope with aphids and slugs in this warmr environment. Also caterpillars.
i think i would of put a piece of duct tape where i was putting the holes ripping would be less probable ... But you gave me some great ideas for mine ...thanks
Hello I follow u instruction and came great the only thing with this weather burn my plants I put electric heater bud don't work I'm so sad and mad :'(
why do you not use something like gorilla glue to connect the pvc ends? You are using a two part glue fastening system generally used for a water tight fit, but these pvc don't need a water tight fit.
where did you get the zippers ?????? also i am in Michigan the sun isnt out a lot in winter im thinking of a grow light but no zero about them but was told that they have some that have 2 resistors or something like that lol I would need one for a 15 foot hoop house and a recommendation.
