God i cant tha k you enough for this video man i have the same exact angine in my 2008 toyta rav 4 limited with over 205,000 miles and boy does this thing Eat oil i soend just as much in oil i do gas sometime more in oil and there are no leaks anywhere At all it just runs hot and is almost indescribable. I LOVE THIS TRUCK SO MUCH. At 205,000 miles this thing runs over tree stumps, goes up hils like a 4 wheeler and is way more comfortable then any jeep ive ever been in or driven doesnt matter what year. The torque is so quick i dont remember the last time someone beat me at take off from a double lane stop light and i dont even try at all its just that quick.
My GDI engine was consuming massive amounts of oil. I replaced the pcv valve and also did the following. I added Berryman Chemtool to an empty gas tank and then filled the tank with the highest octane gas. I then drove for about five miles with the RPMs in the 5000 range but never redlining at higher RPMs. The goal is to create heat which frees up stuck piston oil control rings allowing them to function properly and prevent oil blowby. My oil consumption problem is gone now. Whether it was the new pcv valve , the heat generated by high RPMs, or a combination of both I don't know. I would try changing the pcv valve first and see if your oil consumption stops. If not, then you can try the high RPMs.
Thanks my 09' Matrix 2.4 isn't using oil yet, but with 196,000 miles on it, it might soon. This looks like a great option. Thanks again. Nice install and explanation. Malcolm Ottawa Valley
@@repairvehicle it's so cheap and such a nice clean install I might buy it, mount it and not actually hook it up. I'd be ready for the eventual oil consumption problem(C'mon I'm almost 200,000 miles). Alternatively I could hook it up as a test for a week and simply monitor the can contents. The beauty of our friend's install is he/you/me can unhook and bypass the can, returning to stock in about one minute. It's a low priority for me now, but a clever, cheap option I'm putting in my book of tricks. I got this Matrix in May and I've installed new front struts and coils, new Ruthenium plugs, unseized the hand brake, fixed the HVAC controls, new serpentine belt, alternator and oil and filter change. All typical high mileage replacements I was more than happy to do because of the way this larger engine and extra fifth gear automatic transmission work so well together. Toyota should be proud of the way this thing accelerates so effortlessly and still returns great mileage. I did the math and being fully 33% larger than the 1.8 engine puts it at a serious advantage. I come from Mopar and a 426 is not a whole third larger than a 340. I drove hot minis in the 70s and a 1275 is not fully one third larger than a 1000 either. For that reason I installed a decent an aftermarket head unit and pitched that junk Toyota CD radio(gaining hands free). Admittedly the six stock speakers were still working but I replaced them with component speakers and it sounds great. Already planning preemptive replacements of the idler tension pulley, water pump and harmonic balancer and front seal and PCV valve. Nothing is leaking but the rubber on the balancer is deteriorating fairly badly. Also want to grab a junkyard starter, swap it on and rebuild the original before it goes unexpectedly. I'm willing to do this because the body and subframes have no rust to speak of. Like to score a spare engine and rebuild it, but these Toyotas are FAR more expensive for parts than simply freshening up a 340 or 360. Malcolm Ottawa Valley
@@malcolmhamilton5200 can content does not mean anything. You have can or don’t have can, moisture still there and will be trapped inside hoses after can. Longer hoses, less vacuum. Less vacuum equals more stuff will be trapped inside longer hoses and cause more problems later.
@@repairvehicle I'm not a complete stranger to catch cans. When we build 451s (400s with a 440 crank) they'll rev higher and faster than a 383, but you have to run looser ring clearances to achieve the rpms, which sometimes creates severe crankcase pressure and requires plumbing in catch cans between the engine and where they dump in the header collectors. Otherwise the oil particles can cause smoke out the headers. If this catch can on a high mileage Toyotas can keep the plugs from oiling up(fouling) for many more miles before you tear down ir replace the engine, I don't see the downside of wasting less than twenty bucks. Malcolm Ottawa Valley
@@malcolmhamilton5200 oil particles will pass through worn out rings, catch can is useless. Oil particles will pass through worn out valves seals, catch can is useless.
The pcv valve will still get dirty n clogged because its located before the occ. I have to regularly clean the valve with carb cleaner even though i have the same occ. so I rigged it so that the pcv valve location is changed at the exit side of the occ. and then I use a normal brass connector at the valve cover hence the dirty oil frm valve cover will flow freely into the occ, get caught in the baffle n filter before going through cleanly out of the pcv valve n back to the intake manifold.
This is absolutely necessary on direct injection engines. I don't know why they don't have that as standard equipment. I know....because they have to be emptied now and then and many people don't even check or change their oil never mind empty the catch can, Lol. Thanks for a great video.
@@repairvehicle This is what experts are saying: From Motor Authority article......Do oil catch cans really work. The answer is yes. While a catch can won't stop every last particle of contaminant from entering the intake manifold and coating the valves in a direct-injection engine, the less unwanted buildup the better.
Danke super erklärt habe 👍 vielleicht habt ihr auch auf meine Frage eine Antwort??? es geht um den zwei Liter TDI..Macht es da Sinn eine Öl catch can zu montieren? Bitte um eine detaillierte Antwort. Danke schön
In my opinion, every car must have oil Catch can, because sometimes commercial oils has more vapor, so the oil Catch can always Catch them, and you will know which brand has less vapor on your car
Hi, I got a can same as yours but it does not indicate inlet or outlet. The outlet would be the one with the tunneling to the brass filter correct? At time 1:40 in video you state the far or right side pipe on the can as outlet, however time 0:37 you can clearly see the word out on the near or left side. I just hope you haven't accidently hooked your lines up incorrectly, cheers and many thanks for the video.
Would I benefit from a catch can on my Lexus IS350? I'm aware that my 3.5 liter engine has direct and fuel injection methods. I do consume about 1 US quart every 5 thousand US miles. I do oil changes every 4.5 to 5K miles. I currently have 168k miles. Thank you!
What is the pro and con on this installation? I understand the oil may go to intake and cause deposit issue but would this void warranty or cause engine failure if ...... Thanks in advance.
There are many brands like this model, but the inlet and the outlet are different, it was 2 models I showed in the video, but you get the ides, inlet will be from pcv and the outlet to the intake
⚠️Hi alimech does engine flush fixes vvti gear rattle in 2009 corolla s I have 09 corolla s with 61k miles on it and the vvti gear rattle a every cold start I was think if the engine flush fixes my vvti gear rattle and loosen vvti gear pin cuz my vvti gear pin is seazed in and it's making load rattle at cold start Pleas help the new updated parts is so expensive I cant afford it Thanks big fan
unfortunately the % of flush very low for fixing that, but you can try, and make sure that u r not using thick oil viscosity, or change the oil brand that u r currently using, some oil brand are thicker even they are same viscosity
@@AliMECH thank you I'm useing 0w20 oil is there any other solution other than replacing it cuz it's super expensive and my car rpm is low at 6k when the engine is warm and car shakes and when I turn on my lights it goes back to normal no low rpm no shaking nothing I put new battery altinator spark plugs check all the ground connections all the feuses new feul injectors new feul pump filter no cheak engine light I dont know that is working with it
I have installed a small Air Oil separator (AOS) with brass filter. I am suspicious about reduction in fuel mileage after its installation. If some one has installed the same on PCV and CCV lines kindly share feedback about fuel mileage
@@awaisiqbal8934 it's still a sealed unit so there's no loss of vacuum. A vacuum leak would make an engine run rough. I have cheap $30 oil catch cans on my vehicles and they don't affect fuel efficiency or loss engine power.