Here is the first video on a new series I want to work on, focusing only on one paticular technique instead of multiple in one video. This first video will focus on simple rust effects using a cosmetic sponge and oil paints.
That is awesome. Exactly what I needed to weather up some CP boxcars and hoppers. I see this weathering pattern everywhere. Thx so much for another excellent video.
If you put the oil paint on a paper towel, allow to sit 4-5 hours minimum, it dries much faster. The towel absorbs the linseed oil allowing the paint to dry quicker. I’ve went as long as 24 hours with excellent results. Great video, watched many of your clips, excellent.
Great simple technique! Will have to bookmark these videos you do, I'll be weathering up a group of 15 covered hoppers soon (data only's from Accurail that I'm putting my own fictional road names onto). Keep up the great work, these tricks are super helpful to learn!
That looks great, and much easier than I would have expected it to be. I'm glad to have discovered your channel! One thing I noticed you doing but not talking much about, that the "Boomer Diorama | River Railroad" channel mentioned on his recent oil-paint video: When you put the paint on some paper like that, the paper pulls some of the oil out of the paint, concentrating the pigment, and that makes it work better in techniques like this.
Nice job Dan, came out real cool. Can you do a video on streaking, using oil on sponge but pulling straight down, as opposed to the blotting technique? I'm always challenged by the rust streaking. Take care - Bill
Nice video and great results with the sponge. Did you apply the paint straight over the factory finish? I've had trouble getting paint to stick to a factory finish in the past.
Nice video Dan. The rust effect came out very nice. It's amazing how the sponge can achieve such a good effect. Would this also work with Acrylic paints as well provided that they are slightly thinned down? - Nicholas.
Something like this would probably work with acrylics, but I doubt it would work nearly as well. What makes this controllable is that the paint is fairly thick (and it's just that there's not much on the sponge), and acrylic paints tend to dry pretty quickly when they're in that state. The "Boomer Diorama | River Railroad" channel recently had a good video on the properties of oil paints that make them especially good for this kind of technique.
Hi Dan, here is Billy from Brazil. I have watch your videos, it's amazing. But now, I'd like to know if you have some videos weathering models using airbrush. If it is possible, could you post some for us? Tanks for your time, and congrats for your work.
Do you flat coat the car before adding the rust affects? I assume that you flat coat between different layers. Thanks for sharing your experience. I know it represents the results of your own experimentation. As always, a fantastic video!
Nice job from a new subscriber. I've done similar weathering using gouache. I thought oils needed mineral spirit to blend, but I see yours say Water Mixible. Are they similar to gouache? Thanks.
Dan, can you clear up something for me: 1.) Is "clear coating" the same as "dull coating"? 2.) I'm considering buying a bottle/can of Gloss Clear Coat - Hobby and Model Lacquer Paint so, is this what I should use to clear coat my new models right out of the box before I start weathering? 3.) When should I apply dull coat? 4.) I've heard it said to wash a new car in warm soapy water to get any injection molding flash remaining on the model? Is that necessary?
I do like that technique with the sponge. I make my own rust powder by putting about 3 or 4 rolls of 0000 steel wool in a quart jar and fill it up with white vinegar and set it in the window for about a couple of months. After the steel wool is pretty much dissolved I pour the mixture in a flat pan (one of my old stainless steel photo processing pans - 11x14) and wait for it to completely dry. You could use a glass baking dish. Then I use a single edge razor blade and pulverize the rust into a fine powder and store it in a little (snuff) can. When I get ready to use it on a piece of rolling stock I usually use my X-acto (AproXimo) knife and make gouges in the sides of the car. Then I fill the gouge with my rust. It really looks real, 'cause it is REAL rust. The rust powder is usually mixed with some distilled water, a little alcohol and water soluble glycerin and paint it on or use a little spatula to put it on. Then I use a final topcoat of clear matte acrylic topcoat. Cheers from eastern TN
Wonder what brand you're using now that Anita's is gone? So many of the paints are horrible. The more expensive tubes etc aren't good for weathering. Too wet, oily...not the same dry look.
