Idea- locate a block of wood, drill a hole with a boring bit large enough to slide the pump stator into hole and put the wood block in vise then stator into block. That way you can crank on wood block instead of using a dang sock to protect the stator shaft.
Well Shawn , you made me do it . My trans is all in pieces . Happy to say all looks good . Thanks for doing this series , by far the best info on 400's on the net. One "pro builder" was surprised to find a nail was used on the assembly of his trans. Somebody that didn't know what they were doing was into this trans he said , lol . Thanks again , your loyal follower ... lol
Great video! I livf watched one of your other vids and you were talking about military choppers and planes flying over. I live near a navel air station so I get them all the time. Never grow tired of the thrill and rush from hearing, seeing, and feeling the sheer power of those aircraft. Thanks again for the exelent video. Take care
Good stuff I usually drille a .060 hole to add some fluid to the lube circuit for the planetary. Wish we could share pictures on here . Was something I found in one of the performance transmission books I bought in the 90s seems to help extend the life of the washers
Appreciate the detailed info, what kind of shifter cable bracket is that on the lever? I need to get a few of those for spares and cant seem to locate that style anymore
Great video! I am getting ready to replace the front pump bushing and this is an excellent video. One question: do you have the torque specs for the rear pump bolts ( the different lenght bolts) and the front pump bolts? I know I can look this stuff up online but sometimes you get different numbers and info so I wanted to ask a guy that has obviously built 1,000’s of these transmissions. Thanks Shawn!
I notice you didn't check for pump body wear, a step created by the pump gears I also noticed that 1: you did not check the thrust area on the body. When the bluing is warn off, the pump body is finished. 2: you didn't mention the wear on the gear teeth, also the wear pattern marks left by depth of the torque converter. I wouldn't reuse the gears. Do you clean everything (internals) in parts cleaner Spirits? What about the transmission body, that needs to be run a washer with some pretty harsh chemicals to get rid of road grime and metal debris. I never paint until it's all assembled. TH 400s are almost extinct 😂
Luv your videos and a thumbs up! Hope you can answer my problem here. I have a TH 400 in my Chevy pick-up. Not a race truck either! When I shut the motor off and when sitting for a bit, it pushes out Trans fluid. Can't find wherever it's coming from! Any ideas why or where? Thx much bud.
Awesome video! I'm curious though, I've been a fan of the Sonnax boost valve for a while (400-LB1), I've been using them in 4l60s since Sonnax released them. Do you think its a good idea to restrict the converter charge port when using their valve? It does come with a spring that they advertise as being 10% stiffer than stock.
Shawn, I took apart the Billet aluminum TH400 pump I have from Coan, and discovered that it does NOT have that hole in it like the one in this video that you've threaded and installed a set screw in. It only has the hole which is further away from the shaft and located right above the pressure regulator bore, and while there isn't any plug nor set screw in that hole, for some reason it IS threaded and it came that way directly from the manufacture, (which is Coan). So my question for you is: Since I'll be using a trans brake valve body in this TH400 I have, should I go ahead and install a set screw with a .110" drilled hole into that orifice which is located directly above the regulator valve bore since this pump doesn't have another hole right next to it like the OE pump does? Or is that hole on this Billet pump threaded ONLY for using a dump valve? And if it IS only for a dump valve, (which I will not be using) will I be ok using this pump with a trans brake just the way it is?
I have a turbo 400 that has set in garage for a couple of years. The trans has not been disassembled. Before installing in car i tried to turn pump by hand. It will not move. Should you be able to rotate pump by hand.
Will the grub screw help with a foward manual valve body and maybe do a vid on making a manual valve body from a factory one with all steps needed for it and for trans build?
Is this engine thrust modification on the pump shown in this video usually needed with most aftermarket aluminum billet pumps too, or do they usually already have the .110" restriction hole built into them?
I don’t know if they come restricted or have the ability to modify them. I haven’t had one to inspect. Hard to beat the stock pump in almost every application.
@@mountainsgarage Thank you for your quick reply. I bought an aluminum billet pump from Coan because it has an adjustable set screw which will allow me to adjust the line pressure any way I want just by dropping the pan. I guess I'll just have to remove the five bolts and take the pump apart to check to see how big that orifice is.
@@mountainsgarage ok cool . I can’t see the video right now. Do they press all the way down to that tiny shoulder to square them up Or should there be a slight gap and not hit the shoulder? Like mine had.
The case method can backfire , even without the pump oring. I have cocked em . Causing an uh oh moment. Tye valve trick works on 350s and 400s. Built 2 4L80s yesterday, and 1 4L80, and a RW70 ford today. 1 350 left to build tomorrow. Saved the easy one for last. Then I'm going to Summit , or the gun store.
When you shim or install a stiffer pressure regulator spring for higher pressure this is one way to control the pressure in the converter feed. So any valve body.
I have the press tool from TSR Transmission that I use to replace Powerglide stator tubes. Press out and press in then I pin it with a set screw. I have never done a TH400, the stock hardened tube is fine. Now I need to try this on a junk pump to see if the same tool works or make a new one. Thanks for the idea, sorry I couldn’t directly answer the question.
@@mountainsgarage no worries i always appreciate the input. My torque converter chewed mine up but at this point I may just replace the pump assembly. Can of worms like always
@@mikewolfe789 Three clutches, three steels, no wave. Either cut the aluminum piston or the pressure plate to set clearance. If I was using what I had without options to change clearance or it’s a mild transmission leave the wave and 3+3 should have the correct clearance with new stock thickness parts.
