God Almighty With comments like that Piko America must hold the world record for Patience and understanding ..Glue the clamps 😱.... Killer Allen key .... Over the joint clamps splitting 😳.. ... Amazing customers 👍🏽
How do you get the rail joiners off of the track so you can use the real clamps. I tried pulling on them thinking they would slide off like I've experienced with other track scales, but these seem to be attached more pertinently or maybe I'm just not pulling hard enough. I emailed support with the same question and haven't heard back yet. I was hoping this video would have shown that process.
Hi Scott, the rail joiners have a small straight tab on them that fits into the last tie on the tie strip. The simplest way is to use a small-nose set of pliers (like needle-nose pliers) and spread open the rail joiner. Once it is widened you can rotate downward and the tab can be pull out without damaging a tie. We have hoped to find time to show this on a video... we just need to get to it. (Hopefully soon?) Also, our support line had quite a busy weekend for emails and calls to return. Sorry if there was a delay.
@@PIKOAmerica Awesome! Thanks. I got your email too. I also work in a support group, so I know things can get busy. I appreciate your reply in both spots. Hopefully this can help other folks too.
I am new to Garden railroading. My house was built back in the sixties so there is not a power outlet in the back yard. How can I get power to the train without having a outlet close by??
Just put my layout outside and noticed after a few days there is some discoloration on the factory installed rail joiners. Electrical contacts are still good and loco is moving smoothly but is it advisable to put the conductive paste in the factory installed joiner (fishplate)? Or do i need to buy the over rail joiner?
I am thinking of using Piko brass track for a non-powered outdoor layout. How does the brass handle thermal expansion? I live in Winnipeg with temps ranging from -38C to +35C.
Great question Owen... The high-grade virgin brass we use expands and contracts much less than some other materials that have been used for G-Scale rail, such as stainless steel and aluminum. Even if you’re not concerned with good electrical contact, the purity of our brass alloy also makes it more resistant to corrosion and degradation over time so brass really is your best bet long-term.
We have used these Piko clamps with mixed results. The direct rail clamps went on without much fuss, but the over the rail joiner clamps would split in two with mild tightening. The screw heads are very small and easily strip. I would expect better quality from Piko Germany. My favorite clamp is Split Jaw but now they are sadly out of business.
Tom, Let us know when you used these clamps and had challenges, as we would be happy to talk about any issue you have had with PIKO products. Our number is listed on our website. If you want some rail clamp history you can read on… Years ago, with the very first clamps we made, we had a few reports of issues when they were used on larger Marklin/LGB (bulbous) rail joiners which they were not designed to fit. (This was a Marklin creation, and not on original LGB track.) The PIKO factory did research and redesigned our Over-Joiner Rail Clamps to be even stronger. (This was not needed for PIKO or other brand track, only the “re-designed Marklin/LGB” track with the larger joiner.) Our Rail Clamps were redesigned and retooled within a month, and were shipping to North America before anyone ever posted any thoughts, in any forum. To this day, our original Rail Clamps are still faithfully serving hundreds of miles of G-Track around the world. We’ve heard no reports since. Of course, problems can occur, but PIKO does stand behind the products. Definitely let us know if you have questions or issues.
Kristin, Rail Clamps are not glued in place. (At least not usually.) A screw tightens the clamp onto the rail or joiners and can be loosened later if you want to adjust the track. You might also be referring to the Conductive Paste mentioned... this is not glue but a dialectic material that fills any gaps and has the ability to conduct - or pass on - electricity.
Tom, soldering joints and brass rail can be tricky and tough. (Soldering joints is tougher than soldering to rail.) Part of the reason is that brass would need a very high heat soldering iron that most folks don't have. You would also have to work incredibly fast once hot enough as contact with the rail will take away your heat. This quick work makes it hard to be careful and not melt ties. Soldering to the Rail Clamp reduces the chances of melting ties and causing other damage. Also, do NOT use acid flux - it eats away at metal. Use only rosin flux... but still, it is recommended to solder to Rail Clamps for safety of your track.
@@danpikoamerica7314 Great information, thanks! What about expansion joints? I assume the standard rail joiners would allow some sliding? Also, if you are going all battery power do you still recommend using clamps? Or is it not as important in that kind of railroad?
They obviously work better than the standard fishplates (which don't actually work out side at all really) so why not fit the directly on rail screw clamps as standard on all track? It would save us a lot of disappointment, hassle, wasted time and effort . . . .
Tom, You are correct in that Rail Clamps are for outdoor use. However, many people use G-Scale trains and track indoors - which does not need a Rail Clamp. For the folks that run inside, it would not make sense to charge them for Rail Clamps plus give them the extra effort of putting them on properly when most folks running indoors just want to set up the trains and have them go.
Are rail clamps absolutely needed for outdoors if you’re not running powered track (eg. Remote control loco)? Are the standard joiners that come on the track ok for outdoors?
Hi, I hate the screws in the clamps - why? Because they are too small at 1.5mm and require a 1.5mm Allen Key. This key is fiddly when you use it in situ in the garden and very time consuming having to relocate the key every time it comes out of the bolt head. If you try and get a screwdriver type Allen key with a ball end to deal with the resulting angle needed to tighten the bolt; then the ball end breaks off because it is too thin at the base! I have a lot of joiners of a similar type but different make, they all use 2mm bolts - stronger and you can get a good screwdriver tool for the job. I did note that your video was speeded up when tightening the bolt - tut tut! Only thing I like is the curved tops of the brass clamp.
@1train2garden... We have always recommend folks doing a lot of joints to cut the Allen key we provide in every bag, and use a drill. It goes much, MUCH faster! :) If you look at the Allen key, you can see that the longer side has a hardened end so it should last quite a while. We did speed up the video at the end - as we do with many videos, when showing tasks like using a screwdriver or Allen key. We assume folks know how to use these tools and are OK with us speeding this part up.
