I agree, really inspiring! I love your videos showing all the stages with just enough info.- thank you. I'm also amazed you can do this in 3 hours. Much prefer no music, I need to concentrate on how you are doing what you do.
Yeah, it's not so fast to raise on wood as on metal, but more forgiving and inexpensive. Good qualities if you are just starting out. I have also seen people raise with wooden and plastic hammers on steel. Thanks for watching!
This is great! I am going to try on copper first (and maybe second, third....). I like the wood stake and I think I can make that. I have seen the other method of "sinking" first, elsewhere. I like your method better.
The wooden stakes are easy to make and even wittel them with a knife, if you don't have a woodworking shop. Sinking and raising differs quit a bit, as you thin the metal by sinking. So if you want to make deep items like bowls, goblets etc., raising usually the way to go. :-)
Shaping Silver ok so I can count on about 5 hrs because I’m not fast either. I really am looking forward to doing this, I will show you when finished. I doubt it will be anywhere as nice as yours but it would be a great learning experience!!
Thank you Justin! No, raising and snaps only leads to sore thumbs. :-) It comes from someone putting a hammer in my hand and telling me to practice... if you know what I mean. ;-)
This is what my wife wants me to forge. Looks so easily done!! Very good and instructive clear videoclip. QUESTION: I want to make a tumler of, say, 10 cm diameter. What diameter should the silver circular plate be then? Should it be 16 ? (then the surface of the plate is 4 times latger, which seems logical)
Thank you. It depends on the depth and I would recommend making a prototype first. If you draw it from the side in real size and measure from the rim to the buttom and back to the other side, you will a good indication of the diameter you need. Thanks for watching!
I buy mostly scrap cutlery and remelt it after testing for nickel. Ask in your local secondhand silver/coin store. New sheet, tube and wire I get from "Dansk ædelmetal" in Denmark. "Rio Grande" would be a good source in the US.
Hi. I am making a tumbler and following your method. I like how you are pushing the metal over the stake vs thinning the metal. What gauge did you start with? What gauge did you end with?
Excelent! As far as I remember it is 1 mm, so about 18 gauge. Supposedly 18, but more like 16 at the rim. Let me know how it turns out. Thanks for watching!
I will let you know. I have made other cups and bowls. I enjoy seeing other techniques. Many people start with sinking. As you demonstrated this is not always necessary. When I was taught years ago, we just used metal stakes. I had to figure things out myself to use wooden stakes. When you bough (?sp), why not use a leather mallet? Don’t you risk thinning the metal? I strike around the edge of the cup so as to keep edge thick. I think doing this helps prevent cracking. What do you think?
@@ohev1Abramowitz yes, you are risking thinning the metal and could use a leather mallet, but if you have metal to metal contact you are planishing not bouging. ;-) Cracking come from overworking the metal, like if you roll down a sheet more than 50% of the thickness. I only striking the edge from the top to thicken it so the piece will appear made from thicker stock. If you don't have it, I can recommend the book "Silversmithing" by Finegold and Seitz. It's an excellent book on silversmithing techniques.
Shaping Silver Thanks. I will have to locate the book in my basement. I bought that book 30 years ago. It is a good book, but as I remember, it shows the use of metal stakes and hammers. Very traditional. I like how you hold the cup. I am holding the cup in a more “traditional” way and as the diameter is shrinking, it is harder to hold with my fingers.
You got a really nice result, but - I'm sorry for saying - I think that your technique is wrong. You end up putting way too much work in this. The hammer you use for the raising is not wide enough. You need a hammer with a face of 7 or 8 mm wide and you need to hit the metal harder: the silver will move as if it is chewing gum and you will have less hammer marks and less bumps, so there is less planishing to do. The correct hammer really makes all the difference. If you need to count your working hours, you simply have no time to raise this in 12 courses.
