I myself, being from Serbia, part of ex Yugoslavia, heve been learning the tricks of the trade on those mr. Bob mentioned. They are still present, and working, but as time goes by, ever more pached with aftermarket parts that can be found. Almost everything is still available. China, Taiwan, India. Quality is no way near..EM...but, they still prepare the wood for the winter season.
Awesome job on the video, always a pleasure to see Bob. He's a wealth of knowledge after working on saws his whole life. His shop will be missed after his retirement, not many good saw shop's left with a guy that knows so much.
The bolt holes for the mufflers are the same size in all of the cylinders, but the early style muffler uses a stud that steps down to fit through the muffler. For the top covers, there was a change in the 266 cover during 84, and the late 84-97 266 covers, and the grey top dual coil 61 top covers clear the 272 cylinder just fine. On my 61-272 conversion, I used an 89 chassis that didn't have a good top cover bolt hole. I drilled and tapped for a 272 style cover because I had an AM one laying around.
I ran all the old husky saw’s and several jonsereds my favorite was the 266 my old man’s last saw was a 272 i think that was his favorite i just loved listening to you guys
I put aluminum tape on the inside of all saws that have a top cover that fits close to the muffler. I clean the cover good with break cleaner and cut the tape to fit. I also put some under all the mufflers on my bigger Stihl saws to keep the heat from melting the paint on their magnesium cases. Mufflers get hot,usually over 300 degrees F..
I must have been watching your videos for about 5+ years Walt and I always look forward to new postings. It is always enjoyable as Bob puts it, "to watch the whole damn boring video!" no boredom, just an appreciation of the knowledge and enthusiasm shared. Cheers from Northern Ireland!
No 272... Yes. But what about 262! No 200 series collection is complete without the legendary 262. Especially the early models with KS cylinder and HDA 87 carb! Still great to see these. Cheers.
I saw a like new 66 the other day. It was in for repair due to its owner leaving bad fuel in it. Even the vent slots on the starter were not broken out, which is usually how you see them.
I really like that 630 and 670 but parts are pretty hard to come by or NLA, especially top covers, intake boots are another big one. And its good to see Bob in your videos again. I have not seen him in a while. And as always, these “saw series/discussion” videos are awesome. Keep em comin👍🏻
Thank you Walt and Bob. Your discussion is priceless... I don't understand it all but it is obvious to me that Bob's knowledge is becoming more of a rarity in our world.
Great video Walt. Always enjoy when you two get together and just let the years of knowledge flow. Bob has forgotten more than most will ever know I believe. Thanks for sharing!!
Every time I think I have parts interchangeability figured out on these I'll get yet another combo that throws me off. There's at least 4 maybe 5 flywheels for these that I'm aware of. I just dug through the boxes til I find something that fits
Lots of good knowledge in there. I just put a 50 mm piston into a 61. Wasnt too bad. Its around 68 cc. Still have the 61 carb on it and breaking in but its at 220 psi. It will be a great saw. I think its a better buy then a new echo 590 . Possibly then 620 too. Cheers and thanks for sharing
These videos are very interesting. I wish I could find an oil cap for my old 61. Its the very early one with the small oil cap. I've already changed the fuel tank so It would have a tank vent with a non vented cap.
Great information guys...I converted a jonsered 630 to a 272..I had to make a hole in the top cover for the spark plug boot like your white top..great running saw though 🤙🏻😎
Thanks to both of you guys for sharing all this knowledge! Very helpful indeed. Was there a performance difference between the 630 and the 630 Super? And Walt, I believe you had asked why I don't just put a 272 top end on my 630, not sure if I answered you or not, but that saw is being built by Aaron Lynch to compete in a 64cc and under class.
I think Parts tree is a great place to look for parts or at least you can find the exploded views/ schematics for all saws and all parts and numbers for every year and model. It's been a very big help for me anyhow.
I just rebuilt a 365 special and put an OEM 50mm top on it making it a 372 so your video brought something to my attention. The 372 was a closed port motor correct? They weren’t like the 365&365 special one being open and the later being closed port correct? My questions lead to it won’t start on its own? Pour gas in the carb it fires but on its own it’s dead so any suggestions? The saw has new everything from cases to carb. Any input advice is truly appreciated Thank you.
I’m in the process of buying a 625II. So my first question would you buy on now or pass due to parts availability? The saw I’m looking at is very clean not used much at all and it all OEM. My second question for you is how much should one pay for the saw in excellent condition?
Question why a resistor plug on a chain saw I always thought they were for radio interference. I would think a non resistor would have better spark I’m confused
Maybe, I'm guess it is like any other electrical system , matching the components to get the desired result while also being reliable. If the CDI is designed for a certain resistance, having less would increase amperage right? Would that possible push the limits of the CDI internals? I don't know off hand what the ignitions of that era had in mind. Why I asked Bob. :)
No I get it, but what is the effect of the other parts it the question. :) And I don't have a way to quantify that really. My guess is the old points systems would rather have a no resistor plug. The Newer CDI's might not be as happy with the older CDI's in the 1980's era prolly doesn't matter as they had to design for the both based on what was in the field & what a customer could predictably do. For the spark. Not really sure where to go wit that as there is voltage & duration. First and foremost there has to be enough of both to punch through the compressed mixture. As the pressures and amount of fuel go up, that requires more of both. I can imagine a situation where the resistance at the plug in a given combustion scenario would benifit from less "upstream" resistance to work as its actually the resistance of the entire system from coils to across the plug that matters. And if for some reason the mix is tougher to ignite, something like nitro methane , maybe a longer duration is required. So differnt ignition parameters are at play. Guess for me it's the "more is better" approach really is "the right amount is best" in reality.
