SO Was It A Husqvarna Autotune Issue? Do Husqvarna 572's Have A Problem? "Dead Saw Salvage" Part 2 

This was an interesting video sir!

The hate is already pouring in... :) But I'll just delete the messages. Keeping the channel positive. AND the point is made and will enter into the conversation now. The goal actually :)

@@afleetcommand if you possess a machining background then you understand WHY using a thinner base gasket avoids the problem entirely especially on an everyday worksaw. Cometic in Ohio can make you copper base gaskets down to .003 for a reasonable fee and more importantly peace of mind for yourself or customers. I’ve checked a few older STIHL cylinders and the tolerance was remarkably tight , like .0002 - these new cylinders aren’t nowhere near as precise and we can see the results of a piston inside of a bore that’s not in spec. The saw probably ran like a raped-ape … Until it didn’t - fortunately we can now check the EXACT runtime hours on these newer saw via the CST and because of this fact it appears walls are quickly closing in on some of these hacks.

Hey Fabz what's up buddy? Been awhile since we got any new videos looking forward to some new content

Yep you hit right on the head 👍

I've seen that behavior in everything from saw mods to felling. :) Like I said, I'm retired so really couldn't care less what the fad driven "fan" boys of one on line guru or another think. The only people I care about are folks who are subs and would like to have a little fun. Some just take this stuff too seriously.

@@afleetcommand Yes you'll find that kind of behavior from people in all aspects of life not just in the saw hobby, a waste of energy that I don't have to spare so I just go about my own business as best I can. Take care stay safe and good content as always.

Love it when you are in the shop speaking your mind.

You encounter a LOT of these fan boy cult members here on the inner-tube , especially with chainsaw mods. The ignorant / arrogant “I” know better attitude is something to behold … to which I chuckle to myself : Fine , do YOUR WAY, I don’t care 😂

So when are you going to travel thu this area of the world? Wonder if I should try to gather a few friends and do a saw GTG again. More BS than work and a few tops to cut up

ebay

Yup, make a round "flat" plate & arbor I can thread onto the lathe spindle, turn it like I do to the arbors, face it too so one is "square" to the other. Set the cylinder on it and measure with feeler gages under the flange. :) Like I said in the video, I'm not showing the tooling any more. Rather just show the thin gasket approach that gets to the same place plus or minus, that ANYONE can do. BTW did that for the 660's I was building, how I found out how far off those Hyped 660 aftermarket cylinder were out as far as they were, I showed in that video just using a true arbor & dial indicator. But made a fixture to check the others I was getting to test. Was a disappointing exercise at some level, but also enlightening on how much SLOP those Farmertec 660 cranks could tolerate. :) An education. Funny the "better" cranks I have in these 572's along with the tight tolerances in the case machining wouldn't allow as much run out on the bores as those cheesy loose & sloppy AM cranks. :) Those strong 572 bottom ends crush the piston first. Where the AM's would take out the rod bearings with way out cylinders :) Trivia that doesn't matter I guess but a product of hours of trial and researching that crap.

A CMM (co-ordinate measuring machine) would be best to check the perpendicularly of the bore to the base however this isn’t something most people own / have access to. You could secure the cylinder in a vise on a milling machine and indicate the bore dead nuts zero and then via the x,y axis handles an indicator on the base will show the introduced error. We must consider the long rectangular shape of the base on these Husqvarna cylinders and how just a tiny bit of introduced error can lead to bore mis-alignment and catastrophic failure. I suppose an expanding mandrel could be used vs a turned mandrel but even then … Using a thinner base gasket is the wise choice here in my opinion especially with the shape of the 5series cylinder base. You can experiment with different thickness gaskets and always go back to stock … and sleep peacefully at nite knowing the bore alignment is factory 😊

Watch a couple of the other channels doing this base cut stuff, your answer is there. For me run out was a priority so modified my fixture concepts to both minimize run out in a repeatable way and to reduce setup time. What other folks do and why is for them to rationalize :)

yup , I've seen better; but also worse :(

I’ve been an advocate of using a thinner base gasket for years IF desired/needed. One can build a very strong , fuel efficient, long lasting saw WITHOUT machining - in fact , THAT is how they were all built before the advent of these “internet / forum” pay-for-porting services and all the associated nonsense that goes with the territory. It seems there is a group / cult that promotes machining as the be all end all and if people want to pay them $450-600 for a saw build then that’s their choice. Whoever made the face cut on this 572xp cylinder did a horrendous job and caused premature failure of the saw no doubt about it. Instead of machining , a thinner gasket would have accomplished the same thing and the saw would likely still be in service. This is not to say a base cut cannot be done , only that the machinist/ lathe operator must be skilled enough to know wtf he/she is doing ! We must understand that a chainsaw is designed to have a relatively long service life and is certainly lower output as compared to other similar cc engines (70cc saw 5.5-6hp; KX 65 dirt bike (65cc) 16+hp) and that modifications that increase cut speed at the expense of fuel economy and longevity are not desirable in an everyday worksaw , at least imho. I’ve bought a saws from eBay that occasionally pop up that were built by “known forum builders” who machine the base and cut the squish and ran them in my timber - ran well but nothing special about them , certainly NOT worth the $450- 600 vs build them myself 😂

Same really in retrospect. Another point missed it seems is there is a huge difference between the time in service for a hobby, firewood , racer type, even tree service type than a production logger as well. Mods that work and will last in a hobby/racer world will have a different metric in a production environment. So I can't completely discount the value of a modded & really fast saw if those "lower service life" roles are in play. Just my world and the folks I usually interface with are more interested in longevity & life with that machine over peak theoretical cookie cut times.

@@afleetcommand My M.O. is building worksaws that are easy to start in all conditions, hold a tune (carb versions) , and increase cutting speed without sacrificing fuel mileage and longevity which is most likely 95% of the “practical” users in the saw world . I’m not really interested in building race saws nor employing “race saw” build techniques in worksaws. Increasing air-flow thru the motor with the corresponding exhaust to let the engine breathe / run cooler has served me well thru the years as well as a prepared chain ( that’s another kettle of fish right there) … I have built a 660 pipe saw that rips but this is more of a toy / cookie racer / gtg saw and isn’t practical for firewood/tree work. I’m in agreement about the importance of the R/D aspect and to prove out the saws BEFORE selling services ……. It appears many are lured in by the prospect of a quick buck and really do not possess the background / skill set / experience needed to consistently build good performing, fuel efficient, long lasting saws and unfortunately we get what we see here in this presentation : saw hacks, butchers and charlatans

For what i was referring was about work saws. I think people over do the machine work in regular hopped up work saws. Now if you want to have a chainsaw as a toy its a totally different ball game😊

@@Ketis1985 These stratos charged saws run LEAN from the factory due to their inherent design-basically a controlled air leak/ introduction of ambient temp air into a hot cylinder … To create even MORE heat by machining / increasing compression isn’t conducive to longevity of the bearings or the top end! The older style straight-shot dual or quad transfers 2 or 3 series Husqvarna or the pre “epa friendly” Stihls might be more receptive to this approach within reason - sweet spot of 160-180 psi or so static as measured on the gage. Consider the Husqvarna 585 manual carb saw … it only has around 130psi of compression STOCK yet cuts quite nicely. From my perspective the 572xp has very good port timing from the factory and most of the gains will come from basic mods to give the saw more grunt/torque … I’m not a fan of these high-revving / angry hornet 🐝 sounding machined wondersaws for a worksaw at all. On both 562xps I built a bolt on pipe (rowdy pipe) that along with some flow enhancements REALLY perked it up - run with / beat a stock 572xp thru the timber with 20” bars. This saw has a VERY choked up muffler from the factory however and most saws won’t get the pct gains in cut speed like the 562xp will. I’ll take what I have and go cut wood - 25% + increase cut speed vs stock and 12-15 face cord cut per gallon of Motomix makes for a happy Cat and a fat wallet! I have larger cc saws that will best the lil 59.8cc in this size (14-18”) timber but simply cannot touch the fuel economy-plus it’s a smooth runner that’s easy on the man especially if cutting for awhile.

no, they are manufactured to a tolerance where they are uniform to where any case half will match any other and the cylinders will fit as well.....why I can do these junk pile video's

And sometime same partnumbers have a version, like V1 or V2 added on the case half. My experience is that different versions are no good match.

That's the point, and the take away for me after looking at now both saws, those bottom ends are real tough. Wonder how many failures were accelerated by similar modification. Remember the one saw for certain had to get a short block, so that was a preme failure, and dead yet again. And I do remember having discussion with our mutual friend on those bearing failures. Found my notes on the event :) And it turns out it seems I called it right.

I seem to recall 1,000,000 board feet was equivalent to 651 full cords of firewood or 1953 face cords. Actual w/o runtime on the saw is averaging 5 minutes per face so doing the math we arrive at around 165hours of full throttle operation. That’s really not that impressive when you consider the fact that this particular saw is an expensive paperweight right now. Saw can be salvaged /rebuilt but most likely between new parts and labor it’s going to cost ! Built using different methods ya might be looking at a new set of rings or maybe not - depends on operator. Then run her for another 1953 face and this time replace the piston and rings. You should be good for 500-600 hours depending before it might be time for a shortblock and then ya get to start all over again ! Again these numbers are a rough educated guess and depend a lot on the operator and how the saw is being maintained. There are guys out there with 5-6 million board feet and the saws are still making man glitter ✨

5-6 million bdf on a saw is impressive, not sure I believe it but doesn’t really matter. Expensive paperweight?? As a contract cutter, these saws are cheap for the money they are able to make for a guy. It didn’t bother me a bit when the saw went down. It had paid for itself numerous times over and still got a few bucks for it when I was done with it. Just different outlooks on it I guess. Some guys like to keep rebuilding stuff, others sell and buy new

Hoping it can be yet again a useful saw ( actually already have ). Seems to run pretty well after putting it back together with a new bearing & another good top end.. And that is the plan. Put it back together with a few new and a few used bits and pieces, then see if it will add value to my world. Honestly I'm glad it failed :) I got some bones to pick over and build stuff. I'll be on the look out for more "end of service life" 572's to show up, think of these as opportunities. :)

@@johnhubbard8710 I’m sure the saw didn’t owe you anything after a cutting a million board-feet and I agree they are inexpensive vs the $ they generate over a normal lifespan. In fact I bought 2 brand new 562 mark 1 saws last fall with and they’ve already paid for themselves however I’d rather see them last for 500-1000 hours vs 165hours. That’s like saying I bought a truck that Jonny modded but screwed the pooch and only got 60,000 miles vs another same model truck that got 250,000 that I built myself , no way to square THAT circle no matter how you try and rationalize it - . I’m not a professional timber cutter by any means so I just related the lifespan the saw achieved into something I have done quite a lot of : firewood and residential work. The 572xp I built/cut with is quite capable of bucking a face cord of wood in 5 minutes and doing the math gives the number of hours of runtime at wide open throttle. Of course idling would add to the total runtime so the 163 hours is on the conservative side. Of course the saw COULD be plugged in to the CST and the actual hours of runtime known but this info wasn’t divulged in this video. I’ve never worn-out a saw before so it just seems odd that saw gave up the goose with (imho at least )very low hours. I’m in agreement with Walt’s theory stated in the video. Not trying to bash anyone - just giving an opinion. I know cutters over in Europe that have gotten 2500hours on saw (which would equate to considerably more than 5-6 million board feet ) and they are STIHL cutting - of course they are using aspen / motomix as fuel and the saws are stock … just sayin if I paid dearly for saw building services and received something that only lasted a fraction of the runtime of what it was supposed to because of shoddy lathe work from the builder I’d definitely be contacting him to make it right at HIS expense. That’s just my perspective though. At the end of the day It’s Your saw and Your nickel so ……

He had nothing to do with this saw :)

they didn't do a base gasket delete, it had a stock gasket. They cut the cylinder base, decked the cylinder,