I was thinking of something like this. I am not a expert in this field but I'm just starting to learn. What I also thought of was, I look at how the guitar is like a banana sorta. This fall off serves as a effective way to avoid some of the problems I think I'm seeing with some guitar's. Again, I think I know something and then someone comes and adds to it. I left my last fret alone. I guess I'll go back and do what you suggested. It absolutely makes sense and no shim is needed for the neck.
Hi, I have a bass with a bit of a "hump" where the neck meets the body. I ramped the last frets and created some fall-away but it didn't solve the issue completely. I was wondering if it is possible to remove the last frets, shave off slightly the part of fretboard near the body and insert the new frets back in? Is that a valid method, or the entire fretboard must be planed with complete refretting? I didn't check the neck with a notched ruler yet but it looks and feels straight except the last part.
Thats a great demonstration but my question is why the last 5 and not the last 8 or 9 for example....cause i saw people creating fallaway after the 13th fret sometimes.....is there a set number in your mind or thats just depends on the buzzing?
13th fret is typical. It depends on the situation: a neck will develop a hump where it meets the body so it's always a good idea to Flatten it and fall off at the end of the board by 3 to 8 thousandths.
@@ThomasMuseGuitars I see...many thx for the quick reply....never attempted to do it cause i dont need my action low but its good to know how i would go about doing it if i ever had the urge...
Nice video. Can the Fall away start further up the neck, or perhaps just the last three frets? Is there an ideal place to build up the tape? And would it be different for a 21 or 22 fret neck?. Thanks
Awesome 👌 I suspect this is the one issue that prevents low action on many of my strats and teles... I've ordered good quality tools for to do this. I'm disappointed in all luthiers here in EU... I don't think they're incompetent, I think they don't give a f-ck.. Same goes for the plek machine, it's not the machine, it's the douchebag who doesn't really know how to use it. He said "I want to respect fender's recommendation for the action" smh... Then why do I need a plek. Their recommendations are crazy high... Anyways. I'm not going back to any of them. I learned to solder and change pickups. I learned so much about setups... But this is the main thing! Great video! I've seen people level the frets with the strings on and tuned to pitch, with a special sanding beam that goes under the strings. Do you think it could be an advantage to do it this way? They had a special piece of wood with a heightened nut, and the neck completely flat I think 🤔
Thanks! I have never leveled frets under string tension. I make the neck as flat as possible, level crown polish, and string tension puts a natural bow enough for string vibration most of the time. Adjust with truss rod when required.
I have a 2014 Gibson Les Paul 1959 reissue. The last 5 or so frets are ramped down including the fingerboard, as checked with a straightedge from Stewmac that has the notches so you can measure the fingerboard and the frets. I have always been upset thinking this was poor craftsmanship for such an expensive guitar. The intonation of these last 5 frets is off due to the ramping. Are you saying that this feature is intentional and ideal, allowing for a lower action? And that I actually have a higher quality product? I have my neck relieved instead of straight to give me a lower action without buzzing. To me the lower action the better.
I believe the first round was sanding and the second round was crowning (polishing?) for roundness and smoothness (but I'm not a tech/luthier! -- that's my understanding, though).
