I'd call Tyrwhitt a C+ brand. Their bulk buying and workmanship in conjunction with each other make for a real wardrobe workhorse. The metal collar stays that come with each shirt make for a pretty nice bonus as well.
Speaking for myself, I'd agree--but as Raphael mentioned, I built much of my present wardrobe around a "scaffold" of Tyrwhitt shirts, so I might be a bit biased. On a related note, though, I'll clarify that the final rankings (those in the chart) are a bit more complex than what Raphael sometimes says; they weigh quality of construction against price (and occasionally against trendiness), and also average multiple personal rankings from our various team members (listed in the credits). Thanks for watching! - Preston
I'd probably go a step further and say they're a B brand. The other thing that makes them such a great buy for the money is the fact that they are non iron shirts. So I don't have to worry about taking them to the dry cleaners and spending extra money to get them starched and/or pressed. I can just put them in my washing machine with some quality detergent, then the drier, and they're good to go. They aren't even wrinkled when I take them out of the drier. Honestly, the only time I think I'll look away from CT shirts is when I need something that's more formal such as a tuxedo shirt or a shirt with a detachable collar, but that won't be for quite a while since I'm just starting out with my gentleman wardrobe.
@@paulmcgee1867 may I ask how you managed to bend yours? I use a pair of sterling silver on a daily basis and I never experienced that, therefore, I am curious to find out how much others push theirs and when they will bend.
For Ralph lauren, you should really divide them into three different brands: Polo, Double RL and Purple Label, they are all very different in Price and quality and Design , i like the Double RL Dress Shirts very much 😉
I agree. I'd almost never touch anything from the Polo line anymore (it's been cheapened out so much that you can't tell the outlet clothes from the department store merchandise), and RRL isn't really my aesthetic. But I think Purple Label is well-above average for its price range--and a steal if you can find some pieces on sale.
Yes, that is true. RLPL has lots of unusual fabrics but is absurdly expensive. RRL has a vintage flair, Polo is known for their embroidered Pony and oxford fabrics in bolder colors and patterns.
@@gentlemansgazette I got a purple label blu/white French cuff dress shirt for 60$us on Poshmart. Rare find, but my first very nice dress shirt. I’ve tried Thomas pink (oddly long arms) brooks brothers, Nordstrom brand etc. I have mild autism and the fabric of the RLPL feels like heaven. ( I can’t imagine what a high quality Italian maker would feel like )16 1/2 35 fits like a glove. I love that your video considers the cost to value ratio. I greatly appreciated your video about all the off the rack suits compared. I’ve always wanted an oxxford suit after I tried one on in Chicago, and loved the hourglass silhouette, horned buttons and fabric- glad to see it so high rated. My first nice suit was actually an in-line 6 button, double breasted Zanetti -w a beautiful curved high lapel.. tried one on last year at a N. Rack, and it felt like something from hamricks :/ sad.
Raphael: Please make it happen! If you can produce dress shirts that are similar in quality to the gloves and socks and everything else, and you offer options for multi-way sizing (independent collar/sleeve/abdomen measurements), I could GLADLY order several. I'm sure I'm not the only one.
Working on it... If you do independent collar/ sleeve and abdomen options, then you might as well do MTM right away, and that may be an option too. We are working on lots of things at the moment...
Having worked with Brooks Brothers for several years and accrued a collection of their OCBD’s, I do think they have the best collar for their price point, the points are long and the roll generous. The best version (this century) was their OG Polo OCBD revived dress shirt from 2010’s ($140), but this new version as you featured in this video ($198) is a luxury with beautiful MOP buttons and an Oxford cloth with a great hand.
Great video, but a mild caveat: If value can be defined as paying the lowest price possible for something of premium quality, then a lot of these brands on the C/D lines, if bought on sale, are still going to be better in the long run than the higher-rated labels at lower initial price points. Even saying that, I readily admit that quality knows no price point, which is why I like Tyrwhitt shirts when buying in bulk. To me, it boils down to asking what brands I would wear if money were no object, paying full MSRP and not a discounted/outlet price. Thus, I would grade accordingly (and these are the labels I either have worn or are in my closet right now): A/A- (I'm buying it; no questions asked): Brioni, RL Purple Label, Charvet B (Definitely buying, even if others set my heart on fire more): Eton (A- casual shirts, B+ dress shirts), Zegna, Norstrom Men's Shop (best shirts for the money, IMHO) B- /C (Would be an inspirational purchase): Giorgio Armani, Canali, Indochino, Thomas Pink C- (Only because I needed a shirt): Charles Tyrwhitt (D/F if I considered customer service), Burberry, Thomas Pink, Emanuel Berg, Brooks Brothers, Banana Republic, J. Crew, Polo RL, Ledbury D/F (Nope): Boggi, all diffusion brands, all department store private labels (except Nordstrom, as noted above), anything out of Jos. A. Bank/Men's Wearhouse/K&G Anything not listed is something I've never worn.
@@nathanthomas5133 Noted; but I only mentioned Thomas Pink shirts, not Tom Ford, as I've had no experience with them. I do acknowledge that I mistakenly listed Thomas Pink twice on the list, though it'd probably not be out of line to grade them somewhere in the B/C range.
Great overview, as usual. I'd note that because you often seem to use a high(er) price to knock the ranking of a brand by a lot, it would be even more helpful, at least to me, if you maybe had two charts; one with the rankings of the shirts as shirts and the other where you adjusted the rankings based on your view of the price worthiness. That way, we could look at the chart and see, "ok, if I'm willing to pay, how do they stack up?" Anyway, thanks for all the great, helpful work!
I agree ... I would prefer price/value not be a factor. That is something the buyer can determine. It can be mentioned that it isn't good value if it is a +$400 RTW shirt but I think quality exists outside of price when it comes to an apples-to-apples comparison.
A really long list and very much of work. However I wonder why you didn't include "van Laack" shirts. They are very common in the premium segment in Germany and I think they are also strong on the intrnational market. And "Lorenzini" is another italian brand that would be worth to mention. (I like them but it was easier to get them in Munich in the past, so I have only a few old ones left.)
Brunello cucinelli isn’t really known for their dress shirts. I rarely see dress shirt offerings from them that I like. However casual shirts are a whole different story. Their flannel stuff, cashmere, and denim stuff is beautiful.
I have a ton of Charles Trywhitt and I find them very well built and they fit me really well (better than any Brooks Brothers I have) so I would definitely give them a higher rating
@@AntPDC Another thing that confuses me. Raphael said LLBean was a C/C- but it got rated as a B-/C+. I don't have an LL Bean dress shirt (nor will I ever) I have some chinos and they are workable and they fit well but they are very heavy and very stiff. I don't really see their Dress Shirts being better than Charles Trywitt?
Emma Willis shirts are made out of Gloucester, UK in a hand made process. All in all, you're about right. I have the same problem (arms longer) and now I all but exclusively get my shirts made to measure. I do like the Thomas Mason material. Thank you for the video.
I've been extremely happy with the value of Apt9 dress shirts. $45 seems to be the norm. Part of it, is the fit is wonderful for me, so I don't consider tailoring; big benefit. They aren't high end, or super heavy, but their pattern matching has been extremely good in my experience. To fill out and build my new business wardrobe, they're perfect. And I can look to supplement slowly with higher end brands going forward. Kohl's is where I've gotten them, but I'm seeing they are in other stores; I thought they were a Kohl's house brand. YMMV, but I think they punch far above the price point.
My problem with Charles Tyrwhitt shirts is they develop puckering in the cuffs and the button-downs develop holes around the collar. My tailor said it happened because they are low-quality shirts.
The Proper Cloth merino wool made to order shirts are great for me. Moderate price, sometimes on sale. the material wears and wears. I live in Florida! They are not hot. They don't wrinkle, and when wear them with a good undershirt they can be worn 10 times or so between cleanings. Of course there are no white ones, because the underlying wool cannot be made white enough to look good on a dress shirt.
My favorite casual shirt of all time was a silk Givenchy number; I make no apology! For business casual, Brooks Brothers were always bulletproof and worth every penny till the brand got diluted.
Great video but one thing - Emanuel Berg is not a German brand! They are from Poland! Made in Poland :) By polish workers and polish owners. The founder is Jarosław Berg-Szychułda. Their manufacture is located in polish city "Tczew". Cheers!
Agreed, also the one thing I hate about Charles Tyrwhitt are their huge cuffs. TM Lewin doesn't have that problem and the prices are virtually identical.
Wonderful video detailing all attributes of different brands of shirts. This video also lays the ground work for buying certain shirts for certain occasions.Loved it.
Honestly CT for $33 if u buy 3 or 4. How can u beat that value? U could get 15 shirt for like $500 the price of one zegna which is what I used to wear. I think its good to have maybe two or three really nice dress shirts for important days at work/life but as a daily CT is great. I also can’t keep whites in pristine condition for more than six months or a year tops so if there’s a big formal event I’ll just buy a nice dress shirt for that otherwise day in day out a nice twill or poplin from CT should do the trick. I think to improve from CT the price jump is just too high for RTW at least because its going be at least double for something slightly better and if its eton its like 5x. I’d splurge that for a wedding or something.
I'm not a big spender but I like nice shirts. You'd be surprised what you can find at a thrift store these days (i.e. Goodwill, Savers). You won't find the high end stuff, but lower priced shirts (LL Bean, Brooks Bros, Tyrwhitt are often available in good condition and at reasonable prices).
@paultennis9414 Thrift stores are really good,even if a sport jacket,blazer or a suit that is to big but its such a GREAT price i would buy it and find a tailor to fit it just right for my body....
My 3 Amazon Buttoned Downed shirts are very much on par with my Ferragamo shirt, at a fraction of its cost.... whomever they paid to make it, and then slap on its label :) Buttoned Down shirts are better quality than my Hickey or Brooks for sure, and top private label stores brands such as John W. Nordstrom. And on par with Canali, Saks, David Donahue, and more.
Kiton qualty is A+. They are exquisite. Beautiful, expensive cotton fabrics, Handstitching everywhere, the hanstitched folded hem is superb,.The Collars are divine. The best off the rack shirt I've bought. When someone says, "Gee they're expensive!" My reply is always, "Not when you put them on.". Cesare Attolini their top end shirts fabrics are as good as Kiton, but less handwork and Collars not as good. Quality is A. Borrelli, same amount of handwork as Attolini but fabrics and Collars not quite as good as Attolini top end. Quality B+. Sartorio Naopli, a bit less handwork, good value. B Quality. Finamore a big step down from Kiton. B Quality. Brioni are a step down from those. Way overpriced. C+ quality. Eton lower again. C.
I consider shirts to be consumables, although not quite to the degree that underwear or socks are. Unlike outer garments such as coats and jackets, or even pants, they can become very soiled from perspiration, etc. and need to be thoroughly washed or dry cleaned after after each wearing. Even when extreme care is taken, the finest fabrics will degrade and lose their shape, texture, and color after repeated washings. Likewise, buttons will become brittle and disintegrate after repeated exposure to dry cleaning chemicals. For this reason, I would never consider paying several hundred dollars for any shirt.
It would be really helpful if you did two rankings, one without taking price into consideration. I buy a lot of stuff second hand so the cost new isn't much of a concern when I'm quickly scanning the racks
Turnbull & Asser are my favourite if I want something nicer but the Charles Tyrhitt non irons were great for when I wore a suit every day and wanted cheaper hard wearing non iron shirts.
If you are ever in Hong Kong - Ascot Chang had a great MTM program fast/affordable (I think they had a shop at the Peninsula). I had been doing MTM for a while, but stopped over the last couple of year mostly because I was getting better performance over the life of the garment from Eton (and since 2020 I havent been wearing dress shirts 5 days a week). I dont have a problem with the pricing as their cut/sizing works excellently for my body shape, and they wear very well over time. I think you did awesome work reviewing such a wide range of shirts, but personally would have given Eton a higher score.
Very interersting, if only a bit exacting. As someone with a sensitive skin, material is the most important thing for me, on par with the fit. So, in theory, a $1200 shirt (which I'd never buy) would still be better for me than a $50 one that scratches. Hence, this hierarchy doesn't work for me. Still, I'm sure some people will find it useful.
A shirt of course has to be nicely made and the material of good quality. But there are to many producers who are not using enough fabric, thus the shirts become to short which is a big problem if you have a long upper body. I prefer the shirts from Cordings, both the dress shirts and my favorite the tattersall shirts. I rarely buy shirts from other brands.
Gotta defend Paul Fredreck for a minute yes, they offer a lot of loud shirts that i don't like but their more classic styles come in some very hard-to-find sizes like an 18.5 neck with 33 sleeves. My best analogy for them is Allen Edmonds. Comparable shoes can be found elsewhere but if you take an odd size they got you covered
I own 3 Peter Manning shirts. I do not have your knowledge and experience but I am very happy with them. They are definitely better than Brooks Brothers and anything one can get at Macy’s. I am a size 2 (they have a unique sizing system) and they fit beautifully.
about my ranking too, I first started with Uniqlo, eventually upgraded to Eton and ended up with Finamore and 100 Hands. I also like a shirt by Profuomo, the best twill they have and it's gorgeous.
First of all: I miss Van Laack shirts. Then I don’t get why there is nothing at A, maybe you need to adjust your expectations/baseline. I find it hard to make one rating ranging from Uniqlo/Calvin Klein/Boss up to these 2000$ almost made to measure shirts… CT and Hawes and Curtis are readily available second hand for great prices and still offer good quality. Seidensticker is a very solid entry to dress shirts since it outperforms Olymp, CK, Boss etc. By far, but quickly gets beaten by CT and other brands as you get to know more. So I would prefer a rating for „beginner/1-10 shirts“, „intermediate 11-30 shirts“ and then „deluxe“ for large collections and customers who know their needs, measurements and can appreciate pattern matching, nice collars etc. I think your audience is largely in the beginner/intermediate section and that ranking does not help at all.
I'd rank T M Lewin a little higher. Other brands to consider are: Joseph L Turner; Savile Row Company; and Canarie Shirts - all of these, together with Charles Tyrwhitt, offer a reasonable quality shirt in relation to price. Canarie Shirts appear to be fairly low-priced, and my experience of them is limited (to one shirt) - I have no complaint about it, other than that the collar stiffeners offered didn't actually materialize; happily, I had plenty of spares. Another company, from which I used to buy all my shirts, is James Meade - good weight of fabric back in the day, but it's been a while since I bought from them.
Loved this video. Please do more!! I would be interested in shirting fabrics ranked, sweater fabrics ranked, loafer brands ranked, leather bags ranked, I’ll literally watch anything
I have all brands of shirts. My son turned me on to the Kirkland brand at COSCO. I first chuckled until he showed me some of his shirts! For $20-30 they are the best deal. They fit nice on me, are very comfortable, and launder well. They also look good! (Nice 100 percent cotton fabric too!)
I have one Eton shirt that I find very disappointing, several Tyrwhitt that are quite nice and a very lovely Einhorn (also from Germany). My best fitting shirt is from Lagerfeld, I look like ten kilos less in it. So opinions differ on that subject…
Would you do a video on price differences between Europe and America? There are some brands that I’m in love with and could literally never afford their prices, even on sale. But when I look at their Europe websites some of them are 40 to even 60% off! That just seems insane. It’s not a currency exchange thing. It’s literally just thousands of dollars less. Some super high value items like vicuña wool items don’t change in price much. But everything else most certainly does. To the point where to get their items on sale in Europe would actually justify an overseas vacation. Lol
That would be very hard to follow these days. My wife is Hungarian and she makes yearly trips to Austria, Hungary, and Slovakia to see family. Prices are increasing rapidly lately. Mostly because of rapidly increasing Fuel and electricity costs.
I got my first “proper” dress shirt from Budd last year. The customer service is fantastic. They sent a spare button, needle and thread in the post as a button was missing and there wasn’t time to get a replacement to me. They couldn’t apologise enough and I think I will get some MTM from them later this year
honestly the best rtw shirts are from kiton the have really beautiful and unique cottons, a lot of hand made stiching, and personally a very beautiful cut, the shirts available in theyre site arent the best. i will leave a few brands you dind t cover that i think they really deserve: Barba napoli, vanacore, eddy monetti, etro ( really deserves to be in here), very good price/quality spada, fray, zilli,
Borrelli on the same level as Eton or Paul Smith is just beyond delusional. Barba Napoli, Borrelli or Gheradi are definitely better than those brands..
Can you do a video of your suit collection Raphael? Also, suits from the GG! I would be interested! In a previous video, you mentioned an upcoming video about shoe maintenance and cleaning - are you still interested in making a video for that?
Tom Ford enjoyer here! The attention to detail on Tom Ford shirts are really good. Its not hand made, but there are many details that make it feel superb. The fit and length is perfect, the first RTW shirt that doesnt need tailoring ( for me). I would give them a 4,5/5.
My only thing is that the collars are massive- which makes sense given his style and outsized lapels on the suits. So under less formal and more regular proportions and pieces, it can envelop the wearer and overwhelm the outfit.
Tom Ford shirts are made by Zegna so follow that brand quite closely for quality (and pricing) etc. I have lots of TF shirts i picked up in a Harrods sale a few years ago for £65 so I’m happy at that price !
I'm confused ! How is it possible to rank quality shirts for men and not having on your list Hilditch & Key ? They make quality shirts since 1899 ! Their sea island shirts range are legendary here in Paris. Yves Saint Laurent and mostly Karl Lagerfeld were loyal clients of this british institution.
I’m retired so I don’t need as many dress shorts. However, when I worked I got all my dress shirts from “The Custom Shop”, which is no longer around. When I need a new dress shirt I get MTM shirts, which is the only way I can get one that fits.
Bravo! Excellent work GG, but that's what we've come to expect from you. I learn a great deal every time you drop another video. Thank you. All the best.
I have a few Ralph Lauren shirts. I generally like them but would not pay the retail price. If you get them for a much lower price then they are worth it. I also like Van Heusen although I had a recent problem because they don't tell you the sleeve length and I ended up getting shirts at a clearance sale that were too big.
I would like to see a list where price is not considered, since when they are second hand they can be waaay cheaper. For example I can find eton shirts for 10 USD in good shape
How would you rank Lands End dress shirts? I have bought them since the 1980s. The ones I bought years ago seem to be better made than the current ones they sell.
How sad to rank PRL so low. I own over 1,000 shirts and by far the best long lasting and hardy shirts are Polo Ralph Lauren and Burberry. The exotic brands such as Robert Graham and Eton - the buttons fall off in the first 6 and two washes / dry cleanings - POOF! gone. Charles Trywitt better than Polo Ralph Lauren oxford shirts? Are you kidding?! Those become rags in 1 year. No I don't work for PRL and I also find Zegna shirts hold up well.... but to rank PRL so low shows you don't wear your shirts much. I have most of my PRL from the 1990's still in good condition.
What are you thoughts on David Donahue, both causal and dress shirts. Think they are fantastic, but would like to see how they compare with 100 hands and finamore in your opinion.
Very interesting video with a lot of pointers. As you say, it’s very individual. I’m not a great fan anymore of spread collars and much prefer collars towards the spear point end. Aesthetically, I like Edward Sexton and Paul Frederick therefore. I’ve just bought a new Paul Frederick for £25 and will be wearing it very soon. I might treat myself to an Edward Sexton but will certainly wait for sales and go to their London shop in person. Having said all that, I get shirts MTM for £135. Not the best quality (but comparable to every other dress shirt I own) but the fit and style are so good that I overlook any minor quality issues such as a loose button. At that price, I don’t expect them to last forever which I’m fine with. If you are in or near London or visiting, I highly recommend Justin Block tailoring. Justin comes to you and spends a long time discussing lifestyle, options etc. I’m pretty sure he uses mainly British suiting and gets them made abroad. I’m not for or against getting clothes made anywhere - so long as the quality is there. If anyone is interested, I’d be happy to pass Justin’s contact details along
Good video but I think you are underplaying the quality of Drakes and Budd. If you do one on bespoke shirts, then I suspect Budd may move significantly up in your rankings.
Ranking bespoke shirts becomes highly personal due to the very nature of bespoke being individual to each customer. Good to hear your thoughts, though!
Great episode.. I was just in Milano and picked up some shirts from Camicissima which I have worn in the past and they wear very well with a good pricepoint of 3 for 149 euros! What do you think of their quality? Moreover, how do I keep my shirt collars from dis-coloring?
It's not a quality rating. It's more of a value for money rating. So some brand could make the single best shirts in the world but if it costs as much as many decent suits it won't be A rated.
@@joseph_soseph9611 Of course I know that as I watched the video. My shirts from 2012 still look brand new, impeccable quality as long as you know how to handle and care the fabrics.
Excellent video. I think Charles Tyrwhitt deserve a bit better though personally! If you are in the UK I can thoroughly recommend their underwear. Marks always used to be a goto for underwear but they dissolve in the wash now. CT is the way to go!
My local suit tailor carries Hagen Caramel shirts, made in California. I'm tempted to try one, but they're around $245, and I can find almost nothing online regarding quality or fit reviews.
Raphael, I agree with your assessment of Thomas Pink, Lewin and Charles Tyrwitt. these are my main suppliers. Whilst commenting, your outfit on the video blended very well and would be something I would wear
Current day dress shirts from Van Heusen are a bit disappointing, but vintage ones are outstanding- they often feature borderline Spearpoint collars, and well cut armholes.
While price is a consideration, for a ranking like this, it shouldn't be a factor. Would prefer just a ranking for the shirt itself regardless of price. Also, shouldn't include brands you've never tried. So if price is no object, which of these brands would you rank as A?
If price was really no consideration surely someone would go bespoke rather than buying an off the shelf RTW shirt ? Why pay £900 for a RTW when you could get your exact specification for less by going bespoke? Price should definitely be a consideration. - if 2 shirts are of the same or comparable quality & one is £500 more than the other then that is surely relevant!
@@nathanthomas5133 You're missing the point. Regardless of the price, I'd be curious to know which of these brands produces the best shirts in their opinion. Video isn't about bespoke, it's about RTW. If both shirts are the same quality, put them in the same quality score, but let the viewer figure out that 500 less is a better deal.
