Great advice. I tried to do it a few weeks ago and still failed. But.. this time I tried to loosen the filter first.. I'm taking it back to the oil change center that installed the filter and am going to have them loosen a bit for me.. and then I can do it by myself by hand.. instead of overtightening !!
That's happened to me before but it was on a different car, and I ended up taking it to an independent garage just to have them remove my old filter and put on the new. I think they felt sorry for me because they didn't charge me anything, so I was pretty lucky.... Thankyou for sharing!
Thanks for watching and commenting. Yeah.. i've had such good luck lately with fixing and maintaining my other cars. This was supposed to be super easy.. Dang it ..
I did my first oil change on my 2018 Rav4. It was always dealer serviced. The filter housing torque spec is 18 ft. lbs. The dealer had it over tightened. Even with the tool I had to fight with it. The treads on the housing were tight with every turn that I made until it was off. Luckily for me I anticipated this happening so I had a new housing to install. I am never going back to this Toyota dealer again.
changed the oil on my new ranv4 hybrid yesterday at 1k miles . Had the same problem plus some . I ended up using an aluminum cap type socket made for import oil filters and wedged it on the end of the filter with a large wrench while I turned the socke with a ratchet . Got the job done but it was more work than I thought it was going to be . I have the same problem with my 05 prius , small filter and limited space to work . I am sure that the oil change place sucks the oil out to cover there ass . I have heard many stories about loos oil drain plugs costing thousands in engine repairs . I am surprised they all don't suck the oil out but I have never been to one . thanks for the video , good to know what's happening in the rest of the world of toyota oil changes ..
Yeah.. I tried to change the oil again.. and bought this special tool that was supposed to make it easier.. and it still didn't work. It started rounding out the edges. I'm taking it back to the place that did the last oil change and having them loosen the filter a little bit.. so I can do the oil chane myself.. and then just hand tighten according to toyota specs so from now on I won't have this problem anymore.
Hey buddy... It's cool. Don't sweat it. We all live and learn. I've made some mistakes too. But don't let that get you down. I would recommend you do it again. Like everything else in life, the more you do it.... the easier it gets. Repetition is the key. And that place you went to for the oil change, yeah.. I've seen those oil vacuum machines, not a big fan of them, but they're fast and they don't have to worry about taking out the oil drain plug. If you want to try, use the EZ drain plug I've got. Tip for you, buddy. Once you take off the plug and it start draining, when it starts draining, Then take off the filter. Other than that... you didn't do anything wrong. Heck...when I first joined the Army and started Land Navigation techniques...I got lost in the boonies... I just don't trust my vehicles to those quick Jiffy/Oil change places.
So I don't know if the oil change place actually installed a washer on the drain plug. It's not leaking from what I can tell currently. At some point i'll remove the panel and take a better look.
Thanks so much for the encouragement!!. I do have an updated video. I still had issues with the Oil filter but got the oild changed and this time installed the oil filter myself with the proper torque.. so I should never have this problem again !!
I had the exact wrench you used. Being that i was taking off the old filter, I didn't care if I had applied to much pressure in it, as long as it came off. When installing the new filter, much more delicate pressure was used. Lol
You have an older style spin on filter while newer Toyotas have a plastic or aluminum canister that houses a separate replaceable filter element. The black tool and the Motive X tool are specifically designed for the canister. There's dozens of different designs for spin on fliters, some work better than others. You also need to use a gasket on the drain plug before torquing to 30 foot pounds.
Huh, I though the Canister style filter was on older Toyota's. I did have a new gasket, but was never able to use it cause I didn't get that far. Thanks for watching and sharing.
I have RAV4 2024 prime and that exact thing happened to me too! I very much agree we need to have proper tool before we do oil change. In this case it's filter removal tool - just because Toyota has uniquely shaped small filters that are hard to take off with usual tools. I ended up using a screwdriver with sharp fillips head to puncture the filter and then used handle of screwdriver to turn it lefty to take the filter off. Had to puncture 3 times and turn before filter became lose enough for me to finally turn it with my hands easily. I ordered a special Toyota filter removal tool similar to yours - I'm 100% confident that if you used it in the first place - you would have done it without issues.
Thanks for sharing. I tried to do it again last week and still failed. So pissed. I"m taking it back to the place that did the oil change and having them loosen it for me. Then from now on i'll do all the oil changes and tighten only to spec. That will be a good followup video for sure.
Thanks for your video. It will help a lot in my first oil change next week. I don't like using suction tool to take the oil out because I don't think it could suck out all the heavy debris at the bottom of the oil pan. Open the drain nut would let those heavy metal particles out first.
It was smooth. I bought the tool and took out the filter first without any problem. After that things were easy. I noticed oil looks like new. I only had about 500 hybrid miles because I charged almost everyday. I didn't have to jack up my car. Thanks again for your video. @@GoldenK9Campers
Yeah, i've seen that. It's pretty costly as well. I made an updated video where I had the same problem but finally got it off and then when I installed the new one only torqued to manufacture's specs. Wont' have that issue again.
I’ve changed the oil on all of my vehicles for the last 30 years and have dealt with the occasional bad gasket at the drain plug etc… no big deal. Today I did the first oil change on my wife’s 2020 Highlander since the free oil changes/warranty expired. The dealership torqued the oil filter housing on so tight that a standard removal tool snapped the single-side tab off. The 3 tab side had no issue. I’ll be buying a new one for $80 tomorrow morning because the old one now leaks under pressure where the tab snapped off. Total B.S. There’s a metal tab on the side designed to keep the housing from backing out/unscrewing. There’s no reason for the dealership to be giving those things 10 ugga-duggas with impact wrenches when they only need to be hand-tight with maybe a 1/4 turn with a 3/8” ratchet. All the research I’ve done suggests staying with the original plastic housing because the internals of the aftermarket aluminum ones are garbage and your oil often times ends up bypassing due to an always-engaged bypass valve. So then onto the removal tool. My research points towards “MotivX”. It grabs the complete sides of the housing instead of the tabs. You can’t break the tabs because they aren’t in play. That said if someone really torqued your housing on like mine was then the MotivX-style might round out the housing if the tolerances aren’t tight enough. Did I mention the dealership did not put my splashguard back up on one of those oil changes they did? Missing. No bent machine screws or ripped in half -just missing like it was never there. Weird that the screws that hold the two overlapping shields are missing but the rest of the driver’s side screws and plastic pins are there.
Yeah.. so I attempted again to do my oil change yesterday. I tried multiple filter removal tools. The last one I tried was the Motivx because it got some great reviews. It fit like a glove.. but still when I tried to remove all the tool did was spin and the filter stayed in place. It wasn't an OEM toyota filter and was put on my a valvoline oil change place. I can't decide whether or not to release another video on a failed oil change. So disappointed in myself. I need to get the recall done anyways for the DC-DC converter issue, so i'm going to have them do the oil change. I already rotated the tires. Thanks for sharing !!
I find a large pair of channel locks does a better job than those oil filter pliers. I have the specific wrench for my Honda and sometimes it just spins in place.
A person that calls himself or herself a technician who did the last oil change tightened your plug and filter WAAAAAAY to tight. They don't need to be torqued to 400 foot pounds! Worked for a fleet service for years and would always have to teach and correct the young children they would hire in because they were never taught this. The first filter wrench you used to get it off should have worked. I have three vehicles, one being a new 2024 Rav4 and i do all my oil changes. I don't think this was your fault at all so don't beat yourself up over it. I know this was four months ago but i thought i would chime in.😄
Read my horror story above. I’m starting to think Toyota has no minimum requirements to hire on as a tech. I need an $80 oil filter housing and a $50 splash guard plus screws and pins because of those clowns.
I use the same oil filter Wrench on my 2019 RAV4. My car had free oil changes and after I stopped going back to the dealer the filter was installed very tight as well as the drain plug.
Hmm, my Prime filter has always spun off fine with the same style pliers wrench you used. I have always installed the new filter hand tight- not sure what Toyota did back when I took it in for the Toyota Care services. In my case, I do the oil change on a Friday or Saturday night while I'm working on other projects in the shop. About $30ish dollars for the oil change, instead of $80+ and a 2.5 hour round trip to the dealer. Probably 15 minutes of work, including cleanup. The last guy over-tightened yours- you should be fine next time. Cool to see Valvoline not removing the drain plug- smart move on their part.
It's not funny. I went thru that as a teen while attending HS auto shop. U HAVE to do your homework on tools/procedures before taking on a task. I own a 2019 Prius Limited & tried to purchase my 1st oil filter AT TOYOTA, only to find some come w/canister type/others spin on. I had to give him my VIN# because, I TOO, had them change my oil while under warranty. But they CHECKED it 1st 5,000 miles but didn't CHANGE it. This is when I began changing mine myself. I drain mine, LEAVE PLUG OUT, & REMOVE FILTER. Then when done dripping, install filter then plug. I'm not a lover of siphoning oil out. I would LOVE to see plug removed AFTER they're done to see if it ALL is removed. I'm meticulous so just my opinion. I trust no one w/changing my oil but myself.
Thanks for the honesty I have done similar things just as bad or worse that's life !! I guess when i change the oil on my new RAV4 I will be prepared.... Again Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. Don't let that discourage you, chalk it up as a learning experience. Looks like the tool the tech used was one of those adjustable ones that can be used on different sized filters. Lisle Tools makes them for a decent price.
There are also filter wrenches that have a 2" wide polyester fabric reinforced rubber strap that wraps around the canister, either way for loosening or tightening. These can sometimes work as your "last resort" filter wrench when every other type of wrench has failed. There's one other way, too, and you sometimes have to do this if the wrench you used just crushed the cannister, or tore it completely off the base plate, without loosening it's grip on the filter mounting. You need a ball peen hammer and a 1/4" cold chisel with a sharp edge. You start by making a couple of notches in the base plate of the filter cannister with the hammer and chisel, oriented in the direction you need to turn it. You then switch to a metal punch with a dull edge, and tapping with the hammer on the punch into the notch you made, gradually increasing the force of the hammer blows, break the filter loose. You might need to do this 2 or even three times at different places on the filter base plate before it gets loose enough to unscrew it the rest of the way by hand. NOTE: You orient the punch parallel to the outer edge of the cannister, so that the hammer blows apply a counterclockwise torque to the filter (lefty-loosey). Sorry if that sounds obvious, but if you've never had to resort to this method to get a stubborn oil filter off, I just wanted to make sure you understand not to punch in the radial direction toward the center of the filter. That won't accomplish anything. If you have to resort to the hammer and punch, be EXTREMELY CAREFUL to not damage the filter mount! It's probably aluminum and if your chisel digs into, or even scratches the mount in the vicinity of the filter gasket, it might leak oil. I'll be doing my own first oil change on "Ravenna" as soon as I put 1200 more miles on, probably after our Death Valley trip in December.
Had the same thing happen to me while doing the first oil change for the break-in at 1K, I just powered through it with the same tool you had and was able to get it off (but you have to apply enough pressure that it bites into the filter which will leave the old filter with some dents). It's best to use the correct tool, but in case anyone ever gets into this situation and don't want to take it to get it done, this is the way.
I hope you don’t give up on changing your oil. All you need are the proper tools and it will go a lot smoother. I would get the rhino ramps just to get some more clearance so you can work freely, get some gloves and I noticed you didn’t tighten the drain bolt enough. If you’re not sure how much to tighten use a torque wrench
Thanks. I'm in the middle of trying to do it again, and still. having issues with the filter. Got a Dorman filter remover.. hopefully that's the trick.
Yeah.. they just tighten it way past the manufacturer's specs. Even Toyota Tech's do it wrong. I did another oil change a few weeks ago and had same problem.. even with the correct tool. Took it back to the oil change place and had them loosen it to the right specs.. and then did the oil change myself. I'l never have this problem again.
Well you were right at the offset when you said you said you're not a any kind of mechanic🤣😂 but at least you tried, good idea on the wooden ramps though....Javi G.
The dopes at the dealer tighten the oil filter down to monstrosity level. Maybe hoping you need them to take it off. That's why the endcap style filter tools are the way to go
That tool is use for the cartridge style filters not the canister style like the one you have so it didn't matter if you rounded out the filter. Maybe a strap wrench would be better there. I will say that Toyota is the worst when it comes to where they place their filters and also the cartridge style housings. I've had to drill holes on those housings to remove them. Better luck next time thought.
I'm sorry the job turned out that way Darrell. Very frustrating! You were smart not use the trick of "punching a hole through the filter with a large screwdriver, and prying the filter loose." That would have potentially been a disaster since the filter is up in that tight location, with almost no room to swing a large screwdriver. The key to spin-on oil filters is to wipe some clean oil onto the rubber gasket, prior to installing them, and then only install them hand tight... with your hand. That's plenty tight, has been THE installation method since the beginning of time. It also allows the filter to be spun off, either by hand, or with minimal effort from a plier type wrench like you have, a cloth, or metal strap style wrench, or the plastic or metal cup tool like you show in the video. The dealer techs who do "LOF's" (Lube/Oil/Filter) work all day long, are typically the youngest, the lowest paid, and the lowest skilled, because no dealership is going to have their expensive "A" level techs, doing oil changes that pay .2 of an hour, and no "A" level tech is going to take LOF work, because there's no money in it for them. So you wind up with young, inexperienced techs, putting those filters on without oil on the gasket, and then wrenching them down in fear that "If this falls out, I'm in trouble." Fast forward to a guy like yourself trying to do his own work..... and there's no way you were going to get that filter off, working on the floor, with no room to swing a 3' breaker bar, adapted down to fit into the metal cup tool. Sorry that happened. Couple suggestions: There are proper automotive ramps for cars with low front ends. I'd recommend buying a set. More room to work will make things a lot easier. At a minimum, get on ebay and purchase a set of old-school, USA made, Sears Craftsman socket wrenches, extensions, and metric/SAE sockets, and a 2 drawer or 3 drawer toolbox. Or better yet, a basic roll-around box. Few things are better than nice tools, if you want to DIY.
Thanks so much Todd for the suggestions. I have been meaning to get some tools and a rolling tool box. So now I have some rationale for the wifey!! Yeah.. so frustrating. Thought it was going to be easy. I've had so much luck lately with maintaining and fixing my old mustang. and then this.. argh..
@@GoldenK9Campers You were wise to quit when you did. We call that: Not stepping on someone else's land mine. Had you mangled that oil filter, having the Prime flatbedded to a shop would have been a real walk-of-shame! A pair of the ramps for low cars will be a miracle for you. They have a hump, rather than just a ramp, and they have a shallow ramp that leads too them, in order to lift the lower valance of the car above the ramp. Spend up on quality tools. Old school made in the USA Craftsman stuff is outstanding. So is Stanley Forged, and Proto from back in the day. Many of us have been using these for decades, professionally. Cheap tool lack the build quality and precision to fit correctly, so you wind up rounding off fasteners, stripping the heads out of screws, and breaking the drives in the ratchets... which just leads to HUGE frustration because you can never succeed at doing anything mechanical. Last tip: Spend up and buy either a Snap-on, or Mac screwdriver set, and get the version with the hard plastic handles that can be wiped clean and last forever. The comfort handles are junk, and get nasty from use. But a proper set of screwdrivers will last you a lifetime, and never wreck the heads of screws because they are machined to fit so well.
I have a new Rav 4 , took the car for free oil changes , not sure if Toyota changes the filter on every oil change. They overfilled the oil for sure. Have young kids do the oil changes.
Yeah.. I was so close to trying that.. but I was just afraid of getting further down the rabbit hole. It's almost time for another oil change.. so hopefully the next one goes better.
The shop did you dirty putting that filter on that tightly. hand tight until the seal touches the engine and then QUARTER TURN. these techs think they need to be super man to put the filter on.
Yeah, I actually did an updated video with the same situation the 2nd time around. They also overtorqued the drain plug as well (had to use a breaker bar to get it it). But I was successful in doing the oil change and now both the oil filter and drain plug are tightened to manufacture specs. No more problems in the future (I hope).
@@GoldenK9Campers I have a tool my dad left me among all his snap on stuff (He was a mechanic) It's this no name brand pair of steel triangles sandwiching a planetary gear set. The sun gear is driven by a 3/8 ratchet and the planets at each point of the triangle have these like fingers welded to them. SO if you turn it far enough left the fingers close going left, and if you turn it far enough right they close to the right. So it adapts to any size oil filter and the harder you try to loosen it the tighter it grabs it. It's the best damn thing in the entire tool collection and if I knew what it was called I'd highly recommend it!
Practice makes perfect..........try again next time and keep watching other YT video's so u can master the next oil-change! I would stay away from most shop's...they would only make it worse or not even do the job correctly ..worse yet ruin your car! Most tech's are just learning as they go and have no real experiences anymore !!
Just curious.... before you did the oil change...who did you take the Prime to for the oil and filter change? The Dealer or like Jiffy Lube or something?
@@GoldenK9Campers Then I would have to say, "Shame on the dealership". That oil filter should not have been that tight. Like the other commentator said, Hand tight, then probably just another quarter turn. That's it. If we had to call Superman in there to take that filter off, then there's something definitely wrong in Denmark.
Someone torqued on that filter way too tight. 1/4 turn after touching the gasket. My Toyota dealer (NJ) charges $80...total ! So you drained the oil then could not get the filter off, so you filled the car with what ?
Yeah.. I just filled it back up with the old oil. Then a drove to the oil change center in EV mode. Not ideal.. but I didn't want to fill it with new oil just to have them drain it.
I wouldn’t be letting the “mechanic” who put that oil filter on the last time, within a mile of your car again, the main reason we change the oil on our cars, is we don’t know what is happening to them when we aren’t watching.
Please don’t watch this guy doing an oil change. Please consult with actual professionals or watch a licensed mechanic. This guy doesn’t know a damn thing about cars. It’s kind of sad to watch this is posted as a video for learning.
I believe I said right at the start that i'm new to this; There are lots of folks that have had issues doing oil changes on the RAV4 because of an over tightening of the filter. If you watch the "so called" professionals.. most won't even discuss possibly having this issue. If you are a beginner.. than you are stuck.
Dude its not a plastic housing oil filter. Those used the oil mental canister. It's not a rocket science job. The more you do it. The more you're will learn.
