Hey Scott, love the long videos, I turn them on in the shop and let them run. I can't tell you how much I've watched and pick up more and more info every time, it's like having a boat buddy working right there with me that knows everything about Hydros, Oh, one more thing, I love the info of if you do this it will do that sort of thing, love your explanation of high pressure and low pressure on the turn fin and what it does, that's great info and yeah, love the humor keep the wonderful vids a comin👍👍👍
Definitely would love to see long and boring videos of the process, it's so good to have a proper boat building channel for our hobby, normally what i used to do was add a piece of woven fiberglass strip along each side the mount instead of just epoxy :)
15:23 I feel you there, my dad and grandfather were both aerospace engineers involved with military contracts. They guaranteed me to have that hard life..
Man I finally got me a Miss Geico 29 and carbon fiber inlay done and the mounts are the same ones I used,Love the carbon Fiber mounts. Try the Tactic TTX300 remote and receiver no wire on antenna and incredible range and speed.Doing cooling lines now and upgrading esc and motor now to 6s
Excellent project! It will absolutely scream with that setup, the rpm of those brushless motors are incredible. Look forward to seeing it on the water! New subscriber just now! I'll of coarse be checking out your videos, likely for the rest of the night for starters...
Scott your videos are great the longer videos would be great thank you for taking the time to do either. More videos of your actual runs would be nice to see. I fly heli's, planes, gliders even built a Tug Klimet for a winter project. You inspire folks to try different things, maybe one day one of these will be on the radar from watching your video's, LOL
What Motor, ESC, Prop and Battery setup are you using? I have an unbuilt Zippkit Hydroplane Gas kit that Will be an Electric Boat. Also what "Better Batteries" did you switch to at the end of this Awesome Video? Love Your Work!
Thanks! So i don't really know much about the electrics. Bill Brandt from Rattlesnake RC provided all the parts. He had already bought the boat from me and commissioned the conversion. He knows the electrics inside and out so it's probably best to give him a call. You can find him on Facebook or go to his website here; www.allrc1.com
Hi Scott, Love this video. I would like either of the options you mentioned or instalments of the actual build process. thanks for all of your great content!
Scott, I love your videos. I would be interested in a hybrid of presentations on your conversion from nitro to electric. Videos at key points during your conversion with some (perhaps sped up video) of the processes to get to each milestone with your analysis and explanation of considerations along the way are great information for me. Thanks again.
I used a piece of large heat shrink around a HET motor end so it clamps evenly into the 40mm clamp. That mount isn’t the nicest, the fully adjustable one is much nicer but, too late.... only part way through but nice to see you come away from the “Dark Side”. Lol...
Another good one Scott. As always No Problem with long Videos. As long as I been doing RC always like to see different methods. Cause Ya can teach old dogs new tricks MY BAD SORRY JACKSON
Yo rc bro love the vid and the electric rc boats mod as I am a convert from nitro rc trucks to electric trucks and now electric boats I am hooked on now my questions are simple fixes to complex questions... lol 😆 like fixing pre-built boats from like proboat and TFL boats like for instance my proboat veles 29 catamaran had horrible cooling from factory with tiny lines like 6mm o.d. x 3.3mm i.d. and coming out to a 2mm single outlet... on the over clocked motor for high speeds so I added a ose 8mm x 4mm lines (drilled a grommet hole for a 8mm i.d. grommet) added 2 new big bore 4mm outlets (drilled out 2 holes for big ose outlets) I bought an ose daul rudder pickup... (was a joke had tiny pin hole sized barbs barely squirts water without lines attached... went back to drawing board...) created a brass 6mm tube pick up for the 8mm water lines going to overclocked motor. I attached the pickup to the rudder assembly arm with heavy duty zip ties and replaced the small water line for the stock rudder with new 6mmx4mm lines going to esc and out 1of the new outlets so to get most water flow my question is will the placement of the new water line pick up with 6mm brass tube be to much drag to get those high speed numbers others achieved with this boat... my thoughts are they get high speed runs doing one maybe 2 runs wide open and then let the stock system cool down my issue with that is it is boring want to be able to run near wide open passes back to back like stock boat can before upgraded prop and prop shaft (which i have done...) the idea is to bring back that stock reliability with the new speed runs set-up. What is your thoughts?
Here's my way of thinking about this; Any time you ask the water to do something you slow the boat down. So in your case if you are picking more of the water up with larger or additional tubes then yes it will go slower. By how much is hard to say. Now with that said, if your goal is to run fast longer, then you're on the right track for sure. This is exactly my thinking as I work toward providing more cooling to the motor in the Electro Eliminator. But if all you want to do is set straightaway records... Heck just eliminate cooling altogether!
@@M5PerfHydros ya my Idea was to get fast straight line speeds but also be able to run them back to back like stock set-up but reach near 90mph on the new screaming hot batteries I got (dxf lipos that are 130c continuous they are a company that makes racing batteries for pro buggy racing on the Toyota series in Japan the pro racers use these batteries for their cars and after a few runs with them I now know why!)
Yay. Finally Edit: Scott, you must tell us what motor (kv, size, poles, etc), esc (amp, up to what voltage it can run), how many cells (looks like 4s)...in series or parallel? What prop? Electric nerds like those numbers
840kv, 4 pole, Namba Approved. This runs on 8S...ESC is ZTW 150HV 5-12S completely waterproof. Prop will start as ABC 2215-1938 2 BLADE finished by Mark Sholund
Great job. I have a 34 inch V-hull yacht style boat that I want to convert from an old weedwhacker engine to electric. It has a 6mm shaft. Assuming I prop it correctly, would this setup work well for a v-hull ?
Good video for locating equipment. Hook up of batteries and motor to ESC and how you route the cabling would be good to see. Also are you using Velcro straps wrapped around ESC and receiver battery to hold in place or just Velcro stuck on ESC and then stuck to Velcro on engine well side?
Good idea Tim! Next video I'll focus on how and why everything connects and works together. Though I still haven't decided exactly how I'll mount everything, I'm thinking the ESC will Velcro to the side wall and may even wrap a tie strap around it for insurance. Seems a little cheesy, but cheesy works sometimes!
hi scott...exelent workmanship ! beautiful boat. ..i also like electric better than nitro. can you please tell me which brand and specs motor are you using ? thks.
@@M5PerfHydros scott...i want one exactly the same as the one you are building, i would like the miss budweiser bright red theme. i will put my radio and receiver only... please tell me how much will it cost and how long you would take to build it. shiping to miami - fla 33140 thks.
I'm sorry Eduardo but I don't build boats to order. I do sell my race boats from time to time, so keep watching my RU-vid and Facebook and one of these days you'll get a shot at one!
Dielectric grease is an insulator, it will protect the surfaces from corrosion but will make a terrible connection, similar to what corrosion does. You can buy conductive grease which is what I would recommend. Awesome build and videos. Thank you!
You're not the first to bring up that unfortunate myth. Take a look at this article (and many others you can find with a search) that might help you; www.nyelubricants.com/myth-grease-interferes-with-conductivity
I’ll stick with conductive grease as electrical transformers are filled with oil or grease as insulation so they don’t short out, also I can pass current through conductive grease but not dielectric grease when testing on my bench. Thank you though.
@@M5PerfHydros I have done almost a week of research to find all of the parts online, this is probably why people lose interest or do not gain interest, because they don't know where to get anything. At this point I have dropped the nearly 2K to replicate the U21 but with a different ml hull. I have watched your "instructional" video series twice with 1000 screenshots and ready to rip..
All of my molding materials are packed away while my new shop is being built, so I can't help until then. Right now the shop is stuck in the engineering phase as they figure out how to build what I want on a flood plain, so.... we're probably 4 - 5 months away yet. Sorry!
You definitely had me confused lol.. Obviously going 8s with the two 4s packs, then has what looks like a swordfish 220x box, which is only 6s (unless 300A), then pulls out a ZTW HV esc from the swordfish box haha. Is this a sport 40 size boat? Also looks like your target rpm is around 25k?
Ha ha! Sorry fellas... This is used stuff (new motor) and not necessarily in it's appropriate packaging. Yes the batteries will connect in series! The boat is 1/8th scale, and all of what you see here is class specific stuff as required by RCUnlimiteds here in the NW. These setups are rocket fast and therefore limited in prop diameter just to keep them sane. Check out the website for more info, rules, boats, etc... www.rcunlimiteds.com/
@@M5PerfHydros 840kv, 4 pole, Namba Approved. This runs on 8S...ESC is ZTW 150HV 5-12S completely waterproof. Prop will start as ABC 2215-1938 2 BLADE finished by Mark Sholund
If you thought it was fast when it was nitro wait till your done with it.they don't call them FE for nothing.Its gona be nice and crazy fast...what is the KV on the motor?
Just the right guy to ask. I've been into planes for a long time just received a 1996 prather pirana outrigger with 11cc knb inboard .....the low speed nedle is all the way in and runs great.. WHY?
Yeah. I feel you. I also like nitro more. The sound and the smell are awesome! Electric is fast, but also not as fun. It is a lot more practical. But, the ritual of fueling, starting and launching is gone. Unfortunately, it’s the future. I really liked this boat that had a novarossi as a driver😁.
Love your videos I’ve purchased a1/8 scale Miss Circus Circus that has been rebuilt what appears to be once maybe twice, my question is you advised me to get started with location of motor/esc thank you I have removed what was needed to start the mounting of them and became aware that the bottom has been double layered very poorly resin and or epoxy is running down sides epoxy on bottom is everywhere, is it possible to replace bottom of center of hull if so what materials would you recommend
Anything is possible, but not everything is wise! So your question seems to imply that you're thinking of tearing out the very center of the engine well only, and not the entire floor, correct? It's an interesting idea, and quite honestly I'm having to ponder it just a bit. My first reaction was to say no because I like having the structural integrity of a single piece floor, but as I'm thinking about it I can't see why, if done properly, it shouldn't work just fine. You'd certainly want to add some structure along the seams at each side as this area takes a heck of a beating and needs to be very stout. But hey... anything is possible! I guess to make the decision I'd ask if it is just ugly or if there a functional problem? If it's just ugly I would recommend you leave it as is, though I do understand why you'd want to tear it out. If it's a real problem or hindering the boat in some way, rip it out and go for it!
Thank You that seams to be pretty wise advise the bottom is already in two sections the rear section is the real problem I fix the front using your motor mount technics The rear can probably be saved they have fill previous stuffing tube hole relocated it also filled previous through hull prop strut I will give some thought One other thing they double layered what appears to be the bottom of the radio box when it was a gas boat if I was to remove the second layer I was curious as to what type of wood you use on the bottom of your boats
I don't blame you for wanting to change it... I hate ugly builds! For all the bottom surfaces I use 1.5mm (1/16") Finnish ply, and then 1mm (roughly 1/32") for top skins.
@@M5PerfHydros Scott I have learned so much from your videos I have been in construction for over 40 years this fine finish carpentry is a big learning curve but I’m retired and love it and absolutely want to learn the correct way to do it Thank You Richard
Allrc1.com In reading my own reply it seems confrontational. Last thing I mean to be. There are other ways to power this however I’ve found this setup to work yet not break the bank. If you over prop or have too much tongue you can toast the load limit pretty easily so heed Mr Greers comment.
Thanks Joseph, I appreciate all the help and input I can get too! The whole reason I do these videos is because I remember very well how hard it was to get started racing RC hydroplanes because there really wasn't any information to be found back then. Whenever you see me goofing something up please let me know!
840kv, 4 pole, Namba Approved. This runs on 8S...ESC is ZTW 150HV 5-12S completely waterproof. Prop will start as ABC 2215-1938 2 BLADE finished by Mark Sholund . 1/8 Scale Hydro
That's odd. Prop spray shouldn't spray forward into the hull! I'm guessing the water is getting in from somewhere else. I can tell you this though... No matter how much you think you've sealed your boat there will always be water inside after running. It's one of life's great mysteries
I'm not sure... All the parts were provided by Rattlesnake RC, who owns the boat. They sell a complete kit to build or convert a nitro boat to electric, or you can just buy the parts individually. Check out Rattlesnake RC here; www.allrc1.com
I say 1/4” drive is too large and too much drag. I went from 1/4” to 3/16” in my blazer sport 40 electric. You can angle aluminum to mount the mount to first and bolt the whole mount in with 4 screws.
These batteries will be connected in series to pack a pretty hard wallop... I'm gonna stick with the 1/4" for now, but if I get cocky later maybe I'll drop to 3/16 and give it a twist!
I thought it was going to be 8s. Big boat, big voltage, big spark when you plug in. I use a 30ohm resistor to charge the esc caps before full plug in to remove big spark on 6s and up. I’m sure you know this being an owner of a Tesla, etc... You are a wise guy 🤓
@@M5PerfHydros HIgher voltages give larger sparks when plugging in batts. 8S can melt the plug and part of your finger if you're not experienced at connecting those 8mm connectors. Some people will say they like to know that the caps are o.k. by hearing/seeing the spark. Me, I prefer to use a resistor to pre-charge the caps. I use a 33 ohm resistor with clips on each end. I plug one lead in and then connect the other with the resistor in series for about 5-10 seconds and then quickly un\plug the resistor and plug in the other batt wire to esc. There are some slick ways of doing this that make it much easier. Some Esc's have it built in for HV esc's, check your buddy and ask if yours has it. I wonder if the dielectric grease you mention eliminates the spark. I might have to test that out.
I'm old and lazy and I can't tune for shit , Electric is better for me , I've been waiting sence I subed to you for you to do something like this, can't wait to see her scream . .. I personally like your videos the way you've been doing them Soooo ,, let her rip 👍😎
