I have a mid eighties MIJ Charvel Charvette. it is white and and it has the Jackson style headstock. since it's actually a Jackson-Charvel. it has EMG pick-ups (non active). and a Floyd Rose, and it has one volume and one tone, and a three position switch, it has a humbucker at the bridge, and an agled single coil at the neck. it has twenty one ftets on a skinny neck. and Gotoh tuning machines. it's a really good guitar but it's only draw back is it's extremely heavy at almost twelve pounds.
DAMN that’s crazy. I suspect the body is made of maple or northern Ash which are both very heavy. Well if you’re in the greater Los Angeles area and need any work done, hit me up
My prices are as follows: Neck w/o binding using nickel/silver frets (like on this video) $400. Neck w/Binding like a Les Paul and nickel/silver frets $500. Neck w/o binding and stainless steel frets $600. Neck w/binding and stainless steel frets $700
Nice Job!! Looks great and that's a sick Charvette! I've got 2 questions... when using the titebond do you use a solvent or fine steel wool to clean up any leftover residue? ( i've always used a small amount of super glue and it's a bitch to clean up) also i saw you add a bit of solder to the fret when heating the frets for removal, i assume this helps to heat them better?? I use a soldering iron but never thought to add a little solder
I use 0000 steel wool to remove any residue the wood glue leaves behind. A very easy cleanup. The solder on the iron I’ve found works much better at transferring the heat to the fret and does a better job at breaking down any other glue that may have been used to install the original frets. The greater heat created by the solder also makes the wood expand a bit and makes the removal of the frets less likely to cause any chipping. I used to use super glue as well but the cleanup is messier and can be a huge pain. I much prefer wood glue because although it doesn’t actually adhere to the metal, using it in the slots like I do displaces all the air gaps and encapsulates the frets in place
If it works for you, go nuts. I use it because solder does a better job at distributing the heat all the way down the fret to break down any glue that may have been used. I guess if I didn't have solder to use, I'd Raw Dog it straight on the fret but I have plenty of solder.
What is the point to putting solder on the iron if you’re just heating up the fret? Wouldn’t just running the iron across the fret 8 or 10 times do the trick?
No, it’s not the same! I’ve found that the solder helps distribute the heat deep into the fret tang and slots and breaks down the glue better than Raw Dogging it
I’ve been repairing and upgrading guitars since I bought my first one when I was 15. I’m 58 now. I don’t do it professionally, just for friends and family. I’ve only done two complete re-frets, mostly just level and crowns. I’ve never used heat before. It seems like a good idea but applying solder seems like extra work. I acquired a 70s 335 years ago and the previous owner apparently filed the frets completely flat. There’s not even enough to recrown them. I think I’ll try the solder/heat on that one.
@@malebolgia07I tell you, I never have any fretboards chipping on me when I use the soldering iron and solder. I apprenticed under Neal Moser and he taught me this trick from his days at BC Rich.
You ought to buy yourself a food service squeeze bottle without the tip bored yet for that wood glue or repurpose and old mustard bottle to save on the amount. Have to cut open the retail bottle and spatula the last bit out of course.
