The part about stuffing it in the ground hit home for me. I have the Echo 1 ( Cyma OEM) version of this gun but spent quite a lot on internal upgrades. Thing was set up with extreme pre-cocking, a hairtrigger, and it would always complete the cycle even if you released the trigger immediately, which the stock gun doesn't, it usually gets stuck mid-cycle if you release the trigger too quickly. Thing performed ridiculously, fired like a laser and was my favorite gun for a very long time. And then I went and tripped while running along a shallow trench, holding the gun horizontally across my chest... In the video you can see the sides of the receiver are extremely long and are pretty much unsupported along the center, so the left side of the receiver buckled in on itself. Bending it back is almost impossible. The gun now permanently shoots to the left, which is extremely annoying because the Belomo optic I have on it shifts only the reticle to the left when adjusting, not the whole sight picture, so correcting it in the optic leaves you with an extremely offset reticle... I just can't be bothered trying to find a new receiver for it right now.
I bought an a&k svd and had the gearbox crack from a high powered spring I put in it… got a replacement gearbox and didn’t change the spring. That cracked within 50 shots! Awesome😎
Finally some SVD content from anywhere. Have a Cyma and was thinking of using LCT parts to upgrade the internal as it wears but currently can't find any. I Know the parts will eventually fail over time but locating repair/upgrade parts is a nightmare to locate. Always wanted a RS but never could find one and with lack of parts availability didn't want to buy one I couldn't repair.
Few weeks back I managed to stuff my new Cyma MP5 SD6 into the ground and snap it into 3 pieces. I managed to glue, melt and solder it all back together better than before (in my opinion) and it has earned the nickname of the MP3
I also happen to be a twat with one buried, though in a rifle case in the closet. Got it years ago from a random shop here in the states, but still far past when RS had anything resembling spare parts. Only went into it once for rewiring (just a basic set up for gate nanoasr plug in mosfets that I use) and an attempt to put a higher rated spring in (gave up on that since the one I ordered was too long anyways). Even before that it just never seemed to work right out of the box, pretty sure I got a lemming since I noticed stuff like the hopup emplacement screw was missing from the start and the cylinder head felt far too small compared to the bore up cylinder. Last time I took it out years ago it just failed to cycle repeatedly and jammed up. Watching your vid earlier this past week inspired me to dig it out of its tomb and see if I could find the cause. So far I cannot figure anything out the bedroom tech that I am. Though at first it was motor height but even after testing it still goes a few cycles at best on a 7.4v before locking up and I have to push the arl latch release. Dove inside now and nothing seems amiss besides that cylinder head, no damaged gears or shavings anywhere. Part of me thinks the gearbox was too tight together at one point internally and was causing the lockup, but not sure where and if anything from the factory could have been the result such as shimming. Luke, do you have any guidepoints on shimming this nightmare such as where the factory might have done too much or too little? If LCT would stop being bollocks and release their svd gearbox for aftermarket sale already (and not make it $200+ dollars like I know those wanks would do) I would give one a shot simply for the ability to actually replace parts eventually. I would love to fix it up for the local skirmish games just to see how it fares against the krytac kiddos and hpa gangs, but at this point I feel like I just do not have the means to do so myself and there are no techs in the area I could entrust it to.
Update: Got the wanker cycling again, no ideal how but it cycles without locking up instantly. Now I am trying to decide if I need a new motor for it as well as the Maple Leaf MR 2021 bucking upgrades I had planned for it. Not sure if a rocket/shs 16 tpa will do any better than the stock one or if I need to find a 22tpa motor.
@@maverickentity9341I did the same thing more or less. I solved the lock up problem on both my RS SVDs by installing a programmable mosfet (russian made ARM V Pro) and getting rid of the mechanical cut off lever. I set the burst mode to 1 shot and that's it. The mosfet has a shitload of other features (active motor brake, pre-cocking and so on and so forth). No more lock ups whatsoever...
You have a real sword svd with a warhead motor wired to reverse polarity. What do you do hot shot what do you do. Sorry had to Dennis hopper you. Looked like you were diffusing a bomb when you went to plug it in. Came out nice man.
Luke. If you want to run a brushless motor in reverse you just need to swap any 2 of the 3 phase wires. Ive not seen inside a warhead but if you're brave enough to get the case open you should be able to see if that is a possibility.
Can the Warhead motors be disassembled, in theory, you should just be able to swap any 2 of the 3 phase wires connected to the coils to reverse the motor.
I've S&T version of this. Shot awfully out of the box. trully dissapointed. Then put 200 hours on it for the last 9 years, and now shoot wonderfully straight like ruler up to 100 meters (470 fps on 0.3gr, stock internal. Only barrel change due to cracking). Last week, finally I got RS SVD mint condition. Tested it and it shot awfully. Trully dissapointed. Then i started to see the pattern repeated
What etu is used? I see that it's a perun and I've gone through their catalog but I'm not seeing anything like that. It looks a lot like their etu++ yet the etu++ doesn't appear to have an actual trigger board.
Hi! A big fan from spain here! Keep up the great work m8. I got and A&K AEG SVD and the propietary hopup chamber is driving me crazy. The chamber doesnt allow you use regular nubs (it use a shitty rubber cilinder). Airsoft pro got one for the spring version from A&K that allow it (Precision SVD Hop-Up chamber - Gen.2). I write them to see if its compatible and they answer me with a simple "no" and call it a day. For the photos, it seem pretty similar to mine, i could modify it to make it fit if necesary. Could anyone tell me if the chamber for the spring version fit in the AEG? or some help to fix the chamber so i can get rid of the rubber and use regular nubs. Im trying with a hop up chamber 3dprinted and desing by me but no good results for now. (and if it works, i dont think it will last long). Thank you in advance and forgive me for my pitty english XD
I don't know shit about brushless airrsoft motors, but brushless r c car motors you just switch two of the three wires backwards and the motor will do the same. Weather it's sensor wire and the ground or ground and positive order vice versa any combination of the three
you can email realsword and they will respond within a week or two. they still have parts, magazines, and some guns in stock. located in Hong Kong though so...
It is possible to run a warhead motor in reverse, you will have to update the firmware. Give warhead a call and they should be able to do this easily 😎
That's strange because a brush less motor has three windings and swapping 2 of the winding will reverse the direction. This is based on a RC DC motor, you have the speed controller that has 3 connections to the motor, swapping 2 of the winding will reverse the direction. I'd love to take a look at one but, too expensive at the moment.
My old one. Very unfortunate story about the stock. The motor cage was definitely deformed. But when it ran it was great. And yes, that foregrip ring is a tw@t. She ran at about 430fps on a .20
This is one of the few guns where if you going to do it, hpa it. The best you can do is an 11.1 and precocking but if youbwant the best trigger response, you have to hpa it. That's why i looked elsewhere. Also dont butcher a rs this an umbilical cord. Do that to a cyma.