For those that don't read the descriptions or retain information - don't compare this 'build' to one of my balls to the wall builds because I've changed two parts & two parts only.
I spent a lot of time trying to make my SVD into a DMR. Tested multiple hop rubbers and barrel lengths and diameters. Finally got it to shoot with good accuracy. It may not have that much more range than my other rifles but the SVD is my favorite and I enjoy lugging the monstrosity around. The length also help me compensate for my inadequacies. 🤣
Luke one thing I can confirm, after having my RIF back from you, is that the noise difference and how responsive and sensitive it is compared to the majority of standard RIF’s or RIF’s with basic upgrades is such a head turner, the amount of people that turn their heads and ask WTF I am running is unbelievable 😂 Proper happy I found you as a tech and look forward to sending my G&G to you in the future You even fixed my SSR4 one day after I received it back from you after I was a dumb air-softer and almost broke it 😅 Range is 70m with reasonable consistency which I think is very good for an AEG Keep smashing it dude
I have the m904 honey badger version of this an I'm really happy that you were talking about DMR's and not knocking the quality of the DE. It's my first aeg and I've shimmed it, cleaned it, added proper grease and a hop rubber (along with a nub as mine came without one 😳) and I love it. Short, light and angry. The binary trigger is a giggle too.. 😂
honestly everything youve said about DMR's is very true. Ive been going for a DMR myself but I relized that id rather have something that shoots consistently and more accuratly then ill see about range afterwards. honestly I love how your so truthful and say what should be said. got my respect.
Love your work mate, I have a lot of respect for you so that is why I follow you. Your vids help me with my gel blasters. Applied knowledge helps heaps. Gel blasters are different but the same. Keep up the great work mate 👍
A customer (back when I was teching) sent me one of these DE’s and his brother’s plastic Ares. I loved the DE, it was great. Tiny bit of reshimming and it was golden.
The idea is to make every variable (BB weights,HopUpUnit, Rubber, Proper Seal/compression, Spring power & barrel diameter) work together to achieve “tighter more repeatable groupings” at longer distances then most “Out Of The Box AEGs” are capable of.
I love how you switch to a north american accent when talking from our point of view :D I'm learning a lot from your videos... you really walk straight up to the pachyderm in the room and start a conversation. Love it!
I built my DMR as an project gun to push my knowledge and now feel I know more about what is possible with an aeg than before. I can drop a lower power spring in within half a hour but enjoy the 'bolt action' like gameplay with the convenience of a M4 platform and mag pouches. Very consistent fps is a huge boon to accuracy no matter the power in my opinion. (G&G SR30 base)
Glad to see/hear your opinion on the DE gearbox. My one gripe is their line-up for the M906/M907 share the same exact gearbox so the mid-long barreled variants are under-volumed. I have three DEs (UTR45, M906A and M908B [Matrix Rebrand]) and love all of 'em.
It's crazy isn't it that they sell a few M900's with an inner barrel over 400mm but still with a 3/4 cylinder, but I suppose it keeps costs low as there's a production line for just a single gearbox variant for all of their M900 / UTR's.
Honestly, I've done so many super high quality sniper and DMR builds, spring AEG and HPA. (I'm in the US so we get those juicy power bumps as well)but I can honestly say none of them have given me any real super advantage or made me a better player. I've spent literally thousands of dollars over the years on different builds and shit (mostly just get bored with one on to the next). But if I was to honestly judge my gameplay or fun level, The bone stock CYMA Plat that has nothing but a rubber changed out, serves me just as well... And has less headaches and finicky bullshit. My biggest improvements came from fitness and awareness 🤣
Have been waiting for this one for while, the mag release is really a pita to take out. I guess in the end of the day, the DMR role's effectiveness is directly tied to how much a longer barrel improves accuracy, which is a very controversial topic. If it does increase accuracy considerably, it would make sense having a role that sacrifices mobility for accuracy.
Much respect for voicing your stance on DMRs. I saw you shave down the sides of the piston teeth in this small modification, was this more to reduce weight to counteract the short stroke's hit to FPS, or is it about reducing sound? I haven't seen piston teeth modified like that, and wanted to get some insight from the pro. @Negative Airsoft
It's to keep the piston from scratching the cylinder. Piston rack is square and cylinder is round so you bevel the edge to help prevent it from contacting the cylinder.
I got one of these last year and love it. £103 Is an unbelievable price for what i got. Haven't changed or done anything with it and use it as my main gun. It's very easy to programme on the fly too. What did you think of it overall before you worked on it?
I pretty much only snipe in airsoft and my most used gun is a KJW m700. I have two AEG "DMRs", a Cyma m14 and a Cyma SR-25, and I use them the same way I use my bolt actions, revolving around being quiet and sneaky and annoying. Both have scopes, bipods, they very much look like a DMR would... And they both chrono at 1.05J on .32s, sending them accurately enough to hit a torso-sized target out at 60m with most shots. If I want to have an MED, I'm going all the way and running a bolt action, especially since my local site is 1.64J for DMRs. I tested 1.48J, 1.64J and 1.88J on my HPA m14 setup (yes, I have two m14s) and both 1.48J and 1.64J were pointless when I was shooting at targets on the range and offered barely any more than I could achieve with 1.1J; only at 1.88J would I even consider running a DMR, but even then it was a "maybe" thing because 2.32J with a bolt action is better.
I was wondering when you would finally get your hands on a DE haha I bought the UTR 45 to try a brushless motor I bought in promo (solink blue). I just put a ML MR hop 60 silicone with the ML barrel and omega nub and it's an absolute monster in terms of range. Sadly, the ROF is too high so when I shoot in auto, the BBs drop really fast. The entire GB is original and it doesn't sound as windy, especially with the brushless. RN, this replica has replaced my upgraded scorpion evo because it's as good but 2-3 times cheaper! The only anbnoying thing is that the replica doesn't work with all my batteries because of the brushless, some 11.1 work, others don't and there is no way to know in advance :/
I think if going for a DMR performance with high range, accuracy, consistency and heavy BBs while using as a base a gun that originally is select fire like M14, G3, 417, SCAR-H, it makes more sense to keep it under full auto limit as a battle rifle instead going for higher FPS and locking it to semi only. Going higher up to DMR limit and locking to semi only for me sounds reasonable only when using something that originally is semi only like Mk12 SPR or SR-25.
Well said I listen to your comments a learn my Lct g3 has fab range low power for 0.3 bb Can't understand putting massive springs in to cover up bad work The gas rif I have is around 240fps or less on a cold day but chucks 0.32s a good way a mili second slower Keep up the entertaining work Mr love the youtube vids
Dmrs at a lot of Swedish fields are allowed up to 2.3j, cqb is either 1 or 1.2j, other non DMRs can go to 1.7j. Bolt actions have 2 classes, 3.3 and 4.3j. ☺️
fair point on chrono is why they did a balistically chart we use all over here and if it is not indoor cqb or just cqb as is max 1.2j here most guns are never under 1.7j if set up most out of box come in at 1.6 -1,7j ish and with this chart we know how to set safe distances so everything above 1.2 to 1,8j is 10m 2j up to 2.5j is 20 meters and so on it works really well and people use sidearms for cqb when having over 1,2j as primary. ofc accident can happen but so can it with 1,2j too but is very rare but this is airsoft in most scandinavia sweden and my homeland russia etc. i run my standards at 1,7j ish and dmrs 2,4j ish is real diference in range but again your point is fair i cant come say somthing how it is here is diferent in uk italia etc and you work with what you have like you said you wont win that much when you play with lesser power is how it is. we play for fun people get hit take hit and in end of day were all friends and if we can do it more safe with stuff i mentioned they did here is all good it dose not lmit anything just changes distances after how bbs impact etc and that is fine :) Also do you acsept bribes in berget event ticket ? would be so fun se you make a rant video of it hahaha
MED+FPS limits is more about safety at short range in case the DMR doesnt respect the MED. What happens out at the point of the impact will be the same for two different guns at two different distances.
In the states it's rebranded as a Matrix Calico Jack m4 and honestly for it being a beginner mid range gun it honestly pretty danm good plus all that little modes it has out the gate and the copy knockoff gate board they have in it . Got it as a pdw version so I can play it indoors compared to the vfc MK18 with a F1 I usually use for outdoor play this a good loaner I wanted to put a Retro arms hop up chamber but the ring on the end of the hop up didn't let that happen so prowin in a ZCI 235mm inner barrel With a mapleleaf Mr Hop 60* and it does pretty danm well with 28s. Also little side note the stock hop up is a plastic clone of the prowin and the the wheel hop arm where interchangeable And the stock hop up wheel is a half moon design so not a lot of adjustment
@@NegativeAirsoftTech little extra note supposly the inner barrel sucks because of the weird feed ramp design in the inner barrel that DE decided to go with something about it makes the bb bounce inside the barrel sometimes causing them zip around a little to the left or right
Deffo agree with you there, I annoy people with my TM MP7 GBB loaded with 4s at 1j lol Heavier BB's will do more for your range and accuracy than upping you're power
Couldn't agree with you more so many people just stick a bigger spring in and semi lock it one way or another but leave internals stock and wonder why something breaks but what is a bigger concern being a marshal is seeing people not know how far their m.e.d actually is
I'll be honest, years of running & owning inside on venues that didn't require an MED means that I hinestly can't tell when I'm playing what is within my MED.... so I prefer not having to worry about it.
Thankfully here in hungary we have quite open fps limits. But what you sad about not all power is right we have minimum engagement distances just as well but if you manage to get a rifle around 400fps that's the topp for full auto age and then just set the hopup maybe change some small parts you can get a gun that's qualifyed as a normal carbine shooting 5-10meters further than most non set up out of the box guns. Pop a scope on there and as many external things to make it look dope af. And you have the standard 4meter minumum engagement distance while being able to shoot as far as a stock syma vsr 10 and have full auto as an option
There are alot of Videos of Firearms where they use a supper fast cam to see what the speed of the bullet is when it hits the target from different ranges. never seen any done for airsoft.
I've been running a G&G GR25 (manage to get a new one with the old V2 design) for a couple weeks. Now I know there are comments on the internals but that's not my topic here. I manage to get be hitting targets at 100-125 yards with .36g. I've been using it to performing a overwatch role for my team and it's been doing god's work. Personally I just find that having a range capability while being able to fire semi does allow you to do things that bolt actions rifles can't do (like adjusting your shots with wind easier, and able to suppress enemies for your team better from range). I like to think that bolts plays a lot more into the solo role while DMRs when you are working with a team.
At sniperforum I've read charts regarding barrel length efficiency for each bb weight, using a full cylinder and different lengths of inner barrel. I can make a brass cylinder the needed volume for .30g BB @ 1.1j, but what would be a better choice inner barrel for throwing a .30g BB @ 1.1j? 247mm x 6.03mm, or 363mm x 6.03mm. Is it likely that I'm generating more turbulence in the shorter barrel as I need to bring the BB up to speed in a shorter distance?
I spent a bunch of time and money building a MK12 DMR and it's great. On the other hand, my totally bog stock Cyma M14 SOCOM is just as good and has no MED because it's under 1.2j.
They are really good assaut rifles as I had one and for anyone that wants a full upgrade that's the one cause you don't really need to do anything till it's dies and it will beep at when it fucked
I'm in the UK I run a Double Eagle M908A as a DMR, to a 420 FPS on 0.20g limit, and I use 0.40g BB's, so it will be interesting to watch all of this video. Admittedly it's not stock anymore, but the stock gearbox, gears, motor and Falcon controller have worked flawlessly.
My gas shotty is a Double eagle, as far as I can tell they make decent stuff for the price. That shotty has a pretty tight grouping and has switchable 3 of 6 bb per shot while still taking standard 30 round shells. Not had any issues with it yet.
@@elephaux5671 All three DE M900's I have still work perfectly, the oldest is a little over two years old. Hammer them hard though, lots of constant full auto, can really shorten the life of the Falcon controller.
I built up my friends krytac LMG, running 1.25J with the stock barrel and it’s out ranging everyone. It’s essentially a DMR LMG. Keep hearing reports about kids complaining he’s over shooting and his gun is shooting hot, but it’s the fact that he can reach out and touch them and place a 3-4 round burst in the same 3 inch spot on them. Granted, he is also known to be a BB hose at times. lol
@Jonathan Nieve You do not “need” DMR velocities to get a AEG to perform like a DMR. You also missed the word “essentially”. Is it a DMR? No. Did I say it “was” a DMR? No. Besides, it still has a sub 300mm stock barrel. lol Point is lower Joules in a properly setup AEG will perform and reach out just as well as a high joule one. And guess what? There will be even less risk of breaking a v2 gearbox. Plus, I slowed his ROF down to just over 15rps so that it cycles less and stay off my bench longer. Majority of the AEG’s I setup I send out between 1.2-1.3J, with the odd one tuned to 1.49J.
I completely agree with you on all aspects if the regulations limit the DMR to 1.8 jouls since that is a minor difference, however if the difference is greater (lets say regulations in Bulgaria allow DMR up to 2.5 jouls with hard bbs up to 0.5g) then even a well built combat rifle will get outranged (if the DMR is build propperly and set up as it should)
I actually really enjoyed your video! If what I am understanding is correct your not really liking the FPS/J power system that airsoft fields and such have capped and or limited. I am in Colorado (in the states.) Over here atleast our standard rifles are capped at 350-385 with any weight of BB, some milsim events are different and fields ofcourse. The DMR role is ususally filled with guns that could shoot 400-480/500 and same goes for bolties etc. etc. The problem is then fields try to protect their fields with having huge engagement distances and anything under 100ft you can't shoot your primary gun that would be shooting "hot" for the engagement. I personally think its retardatiion that has gotten the fields to this point. It used to be that I could deck out an M4 style (v2 gearbox) with full auto and go to 400 or + FPS and have fun with it at any fields. For the larger fields out there I think this "FPS" and high Joule panic could be towards people getting their teeth shot out or drawing blood, anything that maybe legalities of insurance for the field would have to go through. Brings in the whole other category of HPA guns which are loved but fields are hating those in the states especially now. Much love from Colorado, as a tech over here I really like your content and your expertise!!!
I have a question for you, and I’m puzzled. I put a retro arms hop up unit in my ak. It used to shoot 340 FPS with .32 in a cyma metal hop up, but now shoots 290 and sometimes shoots 30 feet on semi and on full auto goes about 200 feet. It never did this with cyma hop up. I bought another retro arms hop up unit to make sure the first was not faulty and have used different buckings with the same result. I have tried 5 different magazines all having the same problem, but when I put cyma hop up unit in again it does not do this. Also have an shs purple ak nozzle in gearbox.
It sounds like you have an air leak. Like Jonathan, I think it is the nozzle not having the proper length for that particular hop unit. As you already tested multiple buckings, it might not be the hop-unit to barrel being to loose (also possible, known for mp monster buckings). Might I suggest to finetune existing parts? Does the stock hop unit not work properly enough? Otherwise you might need to go down the rabithole to find a proper nozzle in the hopes it will solve it.
I'd sod DMRs right off, and I have one. For every player who sticks conscientiously to their MED and 2-seconds / 1-in-the-air, there's another ten trigger-gibbons spamming their load point-blank every time they see a sweaty neckbeard pop out of cover. I've never seen DMRs properly policed at any site, ever.
I do think it depends on where you live. i Know you live in the UK where the power is pretty low. Here in denmark where i live battleriffles is 1.69J, DMR is 2,7J and boltaction is 4J. (ofc with safety distance) But the difference in joules is pretty big, and it actually make sence to have a DMR, because the safety distance on 4J is like 35m, so many boltactions play 3J, and then it makes sence to have a 2,7J Dmr because of the rate of fire (Usually maximum 3bbs in the air at the same time for DMR's)
Only DMR i really want is a M14 styled like the M21 from CoD4 in the all ghillied up mission. Though I supposed as Luke said, it doesn't have to be super high power, just needs to be set up correctly for good range.
In real life, DMR's close the gap between sniper rifles and service rifles. But in airsoft, the range difference between snipers and others is way less significant. Most snipers I encountered were within my aeg's range, because I happen to not loudly walk on open fields like a cretin.
as a person who is new to airsoft and dosent think i know it all allready i was interested to hear you say about a well set up battle rifle, do you have a video already up or in planning about how to go about this?
I could imagine there would be a lot of pirate games with the strict rules on power. We are allowed full auto up to 1.6 joules. I accidently made my ak shoot 2.2 joules so now I have a DMR because it is now in that power category. Above that is sniper territory. I think up to 5. something.
I've never understood DMR's. Like to people who want them totally fine. But I don't want to worry about the hassle of engagement distances using one etc. The DMR style rif I built which is AEG power. Performs just as nice as possibly a 400fps DMR and I can use it close up. Also means I can use my two shot burst I programmed. Bare in mind I've wanted to get a DMR in the past but been put off after seeing others in action etc. But I do get why people may want them :)
Hey I’m currently learning my way into this stuff, wanted to know why you short stroked the piston. My understanding would be trigger response at the cost of power output but why not cut half the teeth of if trigger response is the priority ? Maybe a bit extreme but I’m interested in the reasoning, cheers.
Hear me out, I don't often switch off semi on my assualt rifles so if I can dmr a build to get (arguably) that extra range then I don't see any reason not to when there's no major downside
I've got a lil specna m4 and mine set up on 0.32g outdoors with a few lil bits chrono on 0.20g it's like 340fps and it only shoots 6ft shy of a hpa dmr at 420fps I've got and AK that shoots like 20m further
I have a fully built MP5, only thing that’s not upgraded is the inner barrel that has been shortened to 190 MM and is at 6.05 MM ID. I outrange most peoples long barrel M4 and they are always so confused.
I love my Classic Army SR25 to bits, although I hate the MED of 15 meters here in the Netherlands for a DMR. So, I go out onto the field with my Cybergun FN SCAR-L as the lightweight M4 battle rifle and my GBB Deagles (yes, two of them: a plastic TM clone and a Cybergun aluminium) as side arms. CQB is simply the SCAR, plus the CM121 AEP (my third Deagle replica). That pistol's low energy is perfect for close range shoot-outs. Its full-auto ability remains a real crowd pleaser. Why the DMR then? Good question! It's simply the perfect rifle for a big bloke like me! At the training range, I enjoy its accuracy and handling. The size of the battery that fits into the stock is amazing. Only my AK74 can almost compete with that.
Those bevel gears are horrendous, they’ve stated putting them in the new JG G36’s with quick change guides. I’ve tried extensively to get them to quieten down (different profile pinions, shim settings, motor alignments (and obv height) and they’re just nasty.
When I built my last dmr it was for these milsim events (USA) that had 500fps with .25s limit for dmr. Standard rifles were 400fps so it really was a big diffrence.
We don't have full auto anymore for outdoor unless your a support gunner with a lmg or mg replica. Everything else has to be semi auto only. Some indoor fields allow full auto if your smg has sub 300fps with a .2gbb and doesn't have a ridiculous high rof like a dsg or hpa build then your fine.
Come over to NI and we have ALL guns he same limit. The only advantage of a bolt action, on some sites, is that you can go out of bounds and behind enemy lines.
Very happy with my M906C. I changed for maple leaf rubber and a better spring (the original lost power very quickly), the gun is my most reliable. The motor gets a bit toasty, but I won't replace anything mechanical until it breaks, then I'll send it off for you to fix (and improve!)
@@peter11256 Cheers, that's good to know... though I really don't want to try shimming the gearbox myself - too much chance I'll make it worse rather than better!
Airsoft Forums UK Double Eagle Crew checking in 😃 Next step for me is to swap the Chaoli motor (which DE told me is 19,000 RPM but they didn't say at what voltage) with an XT 22 TPA from ak2m4, more for seeing how it effects battery life and if the extra torque benefits my DMR / M908A.
I agree and disagree with what you're saying about a DMR. I have a standard TM recoil and a DMR that I've been working on to try get the best I can out of it. Most of the time I will use my TM, because it's easier and you can use it everywhere on the game field, if I walk round a bush and there is someone there I can just shoot them, I don't have to worry about keep pulling my side arm out then put it away to shoot the DMR. But I do enjoy using my DMR and the whole different play style, I don't sit at the back I still push forward and sometimes I'm ahead of my team mates but I find I have to think harder about where I'm going to move to and take a little more time before I take the shot, the extra range for me isn't about sitting back it's about opening up more targets and making the enemy team have to work harder. One thing I have found though, my play style with my DMR works better if you have 1 or 2 team mates that want to push up with me, so I can use them for a bit of cover fire and I have a little more accuracy to get the more difficult shots. Though, all this goes out the window as soon as the wind picks up, so my DMR spends most of its time in its bag in the cupboard.
There are a few sites in the U.K. that allow DMR at 2.31j. That is definitely worth it, in my opinion. They’re the only sites I run with a DMR, otherwise I just stick to 350fps.
My first gun was a classic army Scar cost less the £150 sorted the air seal, with better piston and such. Plus sorted AOE and shimming and that outshot a DMR on 0.32g bbs mine was running at 340fps on 0.20g he was bang on site limit for a DMR. My Specna outshoots that after a hop rubber and barrel on same BB but I was surprised with my JG MP5 on 0.28s after sorting the motor hight needs a shim as its loud as fuck
"Why do you want a DMR?" ~ A E S T H E T I C ~ I would like to get DMR eventually purely for the point of the aesthetic because I think they look great & I don't just want to throw a scope on my CM16 Raider-L like a twat.
I cannot shoot full auto on any field i play, thats why im going to build a DMR and try to take some advantage on having a bit more power and range if i build it properly, it will force me to use my pistol more often also and i like it too, cause some times lazyness is stronger than me and i dont swap to my secondary as much as i could do it XD. Going for a JG g3 as the base gun, i also love the look, i cant afford a psg-1 so the G3 is my way to go. I saw your video where you installed a psg-1 handguard on a g3, and i would love to know where did you find that, cause i cant find a TM handguard anywhere :(. ZCI is not available at my country, so i will use some SHS gears and compression bits with a maple leaf barrel and bucking, no clue about the motor yet, i will leave the original one and see how it goes and decide later if it doesnt do the job properly. Any tip or advice is always welcome.
@Jonathan Nieve My local fields rules are just a bit meh... i have to run a high caliber "real" gun if i want to play as a DM, thats why i cannot just upgrade an m4, also i have several m4´s upgraded already and want to try a different base gun even if there are m4´s with bigger mags like sr25 they look just almost the same. Thank you anyways mate ^^.
@@barkers64 The air nozzle is different? in which way? lenght only i guess. I didnt find an aftermarket hop up unit yet, at least one that looks different or better than the original one, ive been told that the original hop unit works pretty well, but you know, you cant say till you try it yourself. Thank you mate.
