Great video and 90% very accurate. HOWEVER, as an experienced mechanic there are 2 errors in this tutorial that can cause premature bearing failure, NOT delay it! These bearing are LIFETIME pre greased and sealed for LONG life. DO NOT put copious amounts of grease on the OUT SIDE surfaces OF THE BEARINGS. Grease is to dirt and crud as glue is to paper and dust/dirt! It ATTRACTS and traps the very things to the bearing seal that will destroy it very quickly. ALSO DO NOT grease the tub shaft /bearing seats before you reinstall the the tub/bearings. These bearing are a friction fit bearing and greasing the bearing seat EXPONENTIALLY increase the likelihood of the bearing actually turning on the shaft and ruining the tub. IF and only IF there seems to be a more resistance then you like use a bit of 200 or higher grit emrey cloth to LIGHTLY polish the shaft before you reinstall. On occasion I VERY SPARINGLY use a dry silicone spray OR a small amount of AmsOil MP. It come in a spray can and i just spray a bit on the tip of my finger and lightly lubricate ONLY the bearing SEAT and SHAFT surface where the bear will rest ONLY. ANY EXTRA grease in those areas is a CURSE to the life of the bearing and the machine. DO GREASE THE SEAL WELL BUT use very high quality SILICON HI TEMP water proof grease. A little dab will do ya! DO NOT OVER DO IT.
ALSO You can pick up these bearings and the seals from a local industrial or agricultural supply store generally for less. I go to Progressive Bearing & Hydraulic for all my bearings. The Bearings are 1 each of a 6306 and a 6307. these are a very common bearing in forestry, Construction & agricultural equipment. I Will add a part number for the seal when I have it.
Great video. I love it when people take the time to make something that helps us all. Thank you so much. I just saved ton of money and just spent 13 dollars on a bearing replacement kit from amazon. Tip - Adding windex to the plastic while you fit the rubber fittings for the water pump and the rubber seal by the door helps slide them into place. tip 2 - to get that clip by the door that clamps the rubber seal to the detergent spout - just use a needle nose get them together, hold with one hand, and use the other hand/fingers to rotate the clip into place. since there is a little windex (see above) you can slide the rubber and clamp higher up into the final resting spot.
Richard, great video. Just got done doing my 20 y/o GE that's identical and made by Frigidaire. One quick helpful hint. When re-attaching the springs, just lay the machine on it's side. Both sides are REAL easy to connect by hand.
Makes sense. I haven't had to do it since I made the video but will keep it in mind for the next time. Looks like the repair went well for me. Seriously they don't make them like they used to. Your last bearings lasted 20 years! I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Seriously, thanks for this video. I was about to drop $2000 for a new stack set and this cost me $50 including cleaning supplies and a little elbow grease. The tips you gave on setting the bearing were invaluable. I did use CLR to clean my agitator and it came out spotless. Pretty gross looking when I first opened it up. Thanks again!!
You're most welcome. I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Thanks for the great video and for the courage to take this on myself. It took me a long time, but I got it done. I changed out my struts (or whatever they are called) and put on a new belt. I can't remember the last time my machine was this quiet. I bought this machine as a closeout 20 years ago for under $600 and this is the first repair it's needed since I paid a repair guy $75 to remove a quarter back around 2002...the replacement drum with the bearings installed cost more than I paid for the new machine. Bearing replacement was the only cost effective method. I doubt it's going to last me another 20 years, but they don''t make machines to last anymore...no matter what you pay for them.
I had to retire mine after the spider bracket went and I did not see it as being worthwhile fixing that and you are right they don't make them like they used to. Thank you so much for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
After replacing the bearings +2 years ago, they failed a second time. It went a lot faster this time because I didn't need to clean off the limescale. Suggestions: 1.Apply penetrating oil to the pulley bolt 20 minutes before trying to remove the pulley. 2. Remove the control box at the same time as the motor. It's more expensive than the motor, as I found when my basement flooded. On newer models the motor fastens from the rear with three long screws and pulls back and out from the rear. 3. Remove the shock pins before the pump. This saves lot of moving and repositioning and lets you push the drum out of the way to reach things. You can do it from the back if they are as they left the Frigidaire factory; the pins should all have their points toward the front. 4. Use a 12mm 12pt combination wrench to remove those hollow plastic pins that hold the shocks in place. It's a more common tool for a home mechanic than a deep socket. From the rear of the unit you can pull the closed end of the wrench over the points, wiggle it until it's flat against the bracket, and while holding it with one end, use a pliers on the "hex" to pull and wiggle the pin out. 5. It's no harder to remove the pump, bellows and drain hose as a unit from the front than the rear. ;-D 6. It is NOT necessary to remove the front door bellows. On this model you can reach in and pull it inverted through the door opening. 7. Before reinstalling the stainless basket wipe away the yellow/brown grease (and any dirty contaminated grease from the old bearing) from the inner surface of the plastic drum. Axle/bearing/wheel grease isn't water soluble, but over time it can become detached from the plastic by detergents and WILL permanently soil any clothing that it gets to.
You are most welcome. Thank you for watching, commenting and the super valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. I am happy to know I could help. All the best.👍😀
Thank you Richard for sharing this video. I pulled off the repair with this support tool. It was a complete pain to get the outer ring of the broken bearing out. But my Dremel tool and about 8 bits finally got it out. I am have been up and running for a couple weeks now with no issues thus far....knock knock! Your effort and explanation was truly appreciated. Take Care!
You are most welcome. I am glad to know I could help you. Thank you for watching, commenting and the kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Excellent guide; although if I watched the whole thing before starting I might not have tackled it! It was a bit of a project and ended up taking me about five hours and would have taken much longer without your video. Thank you for taking the time to put this on line!
I did this same job on my kenmore front loader which looks exactly the same!. I had hard time finding the right bearing parts initially. In my case the plastic shock was broken as well. I had to use my air tools to get the old bearings out, and it was a pain. Not for the tool-less user. If I may suggest, because the aluminum spider arm gets eaten out due to the contact with stainless steel and the soap stuff, I used a dremel to remove all the grime and stop the damage and the holes on the aluminum, then I sprayed the spider arm with Rust-Oleum rubberized type rust resistant spray. And it's been 3 years since... I thank you for sharing the video, I always think about it afterwards...
Could be your bearings were corroded into the washer? Mine actually came out quite easily.(Light force with a hammer). I wish I had done the spider wheel cleaning and coating when I had it apart. Oh well, next time. LOL So far it is running so quiet that I have strain to hear it. Very happy with the repair. Thank you for the comments and watching.
good work you did with the spider arm, my Kenmore has bad spider arms, but still connected to the shift with some solid part, I am thinking to reinforce it with plastic steel resin.
You're most welcome. I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Thank you for posting this excelent video. It is the only one I found that details how to remove the pins on the shocks that other self proclaimed "professionals" ignored, and the detail you provide is way beyond what others gloss over. I used a pair of long 90 degree needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight to squeeze the pin locks and push the pins at the same time after being unable to pull them out by hand using the long socket method; they were pretty tight on mine. BTW, 13mm is the closest metric to 1/2", and the bolts on the outer drum halves were actually 3/8". BTW-2, our washer & dryer are a GE Profile set about 10 years old, but exactly like your Frigidaire and guess what it says on the outer drum - Yep, Fridigaire. I had already replaced the dryer blower assembly with a Frigidaire unit that was much cheaper than the unit advertised for a GE Profile; it was an eBay seller that gave the Frigidaire part number as an alternative so I looked for it and when it arrived it was exactly the same unit. So... the outer drum is out and split and I am soaking the inner drum shaft with liquid wrench because it was stuck tight in the old bearings. One other thing I learned in checking the motor (It was fine) is that if you try the spin portion of the delicates cycle because it is the on the top of the dial and easiest to see, it does not spin; I had to use the regular cycle spin, and boy does that motor wind up with no load on it - I couldn't even tell it was turning until I touched the pully. Oh, if you hadn't shown how easy it is to remove the drain pump I wouldn't have found the $1.05 in change inside the the punp. Thanks again.
+Richard Lloyd, The bearings came yesterday and I got it all back together, did a test load of shop rags on quick wash, and it spun them nearly dry. I was concerned when the drain pump made a loud racket at first, but it quieted down once it had water in it. You were right that the little wire clamp behind the door gasket was a pita and I worked on it for quite a while with needle nose pliers and finally got it hooked using a pair of liottle needle nose vice grips (or whatever brand the Harbor Freight Chinese version is). I did notice that the old bearings were Chinese too - don't we make anything in our own country anymore? Anyway the catastrophy of biblical proportions is over and the wife is happy , so thanks again.
Hi Richard Thank you so much for sharing the video. It was my first big project to replace the washer bearing. I couldn't do it with out your demonstration. Thank you very very much!!!
Great video thank you! I used the instructions for my Frigidaire model FTF1240FS1, which seems almost identical on the inside, and got the bearings replaced. I originally had a repair guy come out, he charged me $120 to tell me it wasn't worth fixing. Thanks again!
Great video. Very helpful. Got the replacement bearings on ebay for $17.00, even though the local repairman said that it wasn't worth fixing. Just a couple of ideas after completing my job... 1. The rear cement block on my machine could be removed. Saves 5 - 10 lbs. Just be certain to replace it before the flywheel. 2. I used a ratchet tie down as a "support" under the tub to raise and relax the springs. Used a 1x4 and the rear cement block placed over the top frame of the machine as a fulcrum and ratcheted the tub up to ease the tension off the springs allowing them to be removed. Afterwards, released the ratchet and lowered the tub down. 3. Had the same leak as you following the repair. Solved by using a real hose clamp from NAPA ($1.12 extra). Again, great video and many, many thanks! Can't believe the sound of silence only cost me $18.12 and a couple of hours... Couldn't have done it without you!
Great video! I wanted to say that I don't think you need to take off the rubber drain hose on the front. The one attached to the tub, yes, but not the other smaller one.
Thanks for sharing this! I bought a Whirlpool Duet washer and dryer set, and the washer has a bad bearing. Your video definitely makes repairing it look easy and straightforward.
Hello Sir. I have a Frigidaire GLTF2940FS1 and the tub has begun to spin for a while then stop. I took the back plate off, checked the motor bearing, which spins fine. The large belt wheel was very hard to turn. It freed up for a while, then got hard to turn again. I am thinking it is a tub bearing. Does that sound right? It is not making any noise, as you had mentioned in the video, though.
Thanks so much. I had a broken spider. Got a whole "tub kit" from Sears incl. the spider, inner drum, outer drum, new bearings and rear pulley. $207. That was cheaper than any other option since you can't just buy the spider. The drum with it is over $300
You are most welcome. Too bad you could not source just the spider. But I guess now you don't have anything to worry about as far as the tub is concerned. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Using the moving dolly was great advice. Regarding that difficult little rubber apron clip, I found using snipe nosed vice grips on one end and a loop of wire wrapped around the handle of a screw driver on the other end helped me pull the clip apart. I used that same wire loop to pull the heavy mounting springs up through their slots. Maybe that approach will help someone. Thanks again for the video! Oh, also a 2 jaw tie rod end puller removed the spider wheel in the back very easily.
thanks for the video. You were the only one showing greasing the spindle and bearings. I could not get the spindle properly seated until I used the grease. Will run a test wash with hot water to wash away any grease in the inside the tub,
Richard, thank you so much for the very instructional video. God a given some skill however none are related to appliances. Unfortunately once I got down to the drum I found the 3 braces for the spindle were cracked, I also found a broken shock which may have started the snowball effect. Once again, thank you so much
we repaired our drum with loctite for aluminum and then went over that with fiber glass. You have to sand it down to the suface almost so there's clearance for spinning or you will be squeaking and be taking it apart again.. I let each application dry for days before reapplying the next coating. Fiber glass should be done outside.
Great video, my spider was broken and the bolts were stuck on the drum. I had to use a breaker bar to get the bolts off and purchased an arm on eBay. I’m in a condo so I didn’t have the space to replace my unit with some new huge unit combo.
Fantastic video, Richard. I knew nothing about how a washin machine is made and I dismantled it nicely! Only to find that the bearings looks quite fine, but the drum spider is broken.... Happy to now have a diagnosis, but I feel the replacement part (drum and spider assembly) is a bit expensive... Considering buying a new machine, unless I can find an affordable replacement part. Thanks again!
Bernard Vallee If you see the comment bellow by +Brian K he took it into a welding shop and had them TIG weld it for them. Another viewer went on Craigslist and found a used machine that was broken but had a good drum to get hers. So there are options. I think the welding solution is great if you can get it done cheaply. Thanks.
Richard Lloyd I wish I could, Richard! ¸The spider is not only cracked at several places but also severely corroded - eaten up, actial hole at one place. In the water pump I found a big handful of "sand" which happens to be disintegrated metal from the spider. Many thanks again for your help and generosity!
Bernard Vallee You are most welcome. Keep an eye out on the classified adds for a cheap used washer with a good drum. You can always swap the parts you need from the best of the two washers. Best of luck.
Thank you very much. I have not had to change the timer cycle button (YET) but when and if I do I will certainly video the procedure. BTW are you talking about the electrical component or just the plastic dials? Thanks.
I have read that the 3 leg spider inside corrodes and can break at the hub..I think I will clean it good and coat it heavy with some special paint. Hoping mine is not broke and all that is wrong is bearings are bad..I know they are just by the play in the drum. Love this video and thank you!!
Done! Man last time I do that job..bearings were rust bucket..races stuck inside had to hammer them out, what a mess. My inner spider was so full of crap so I cleaned all the square holes out best I could and then after all was clean and dry as possible I filled the holes with epoxy mixes..3 tubes of it..but the spider was starting to break up in center (ribs between holes) so it is now sealed and the epoxy was allowed to settle so the top of the holes are flat level with hard epoxy..since the SEAL will be right next to this area I decided to do all that. Happy now and thanks again I used your video down in basement (pause and start) to help me out..I messed up twice but finally got it all working :)
The seal is a TC 40*80*10 that you can get on E-bay (dimensions in mm's; bearing PNs below). I had a really hard time getting the stainless drum out too. I had to beat on it really hard to get it out which I believe caused the spider to crack because of the impacting while beating on the end of the shaft. I took it to a welding shop and they were able to TIG weld it thankfully. The larger bearing had to be cut off with an angle grinder. Too bad they don't sell the spider separately. The machine works great now.
ok now i think i know what it is before i get it apart. That spinder makes perfect sense. I was washing a load of heavy clothes and that's probably why my drum seems out of balance. My biggest question now is, my drum is glued as well. what kind of adhesive and sealer do you use to glue it back? I assumed you had to replace it with a new style spring bellow.
hey thanks for the video... I have a Frigidaire affinity washer noticed the belt squalling or bearing grinding not sure and needed to know how to remove the back to look at whats going on. Thought I was down and out on my luck and thought I might have to go out and buy a new washer.. thanks again
@@richardlloydusa I have the same affinity washer yet my tub will not spin or move, it did this few weeks ago then pinned again. Now the machine goes through wash cycles drains then stops at spin cycle say E59 call service. Service man says drum is gone? Do you think this is true, I love my washer
You're most welcome. Glad it was helpful! Thank you so much again for commenting, watching and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. Subscribe, Click The Bell and stay tuned! All the best.👍😀
This is a great video thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. Could you tell me what grease you used for the bearings, the glue for the rubber door boot, and the silicone you used for the rubber water hose? Thanks Again!
Regular #2 bearing grease for the bearing (they do make marine grease but I don't know if it matters). Goop for the rubber seal and GE clear silicone on the hose, if I remember correctly. Thanks.
I wonder if we need to grease the bearings. 1- are they sealed bearings? 2 - wouldn't the grease mixed into the clothes from the inner seal/bearing into the tub?
Hello Mr. Lloyd, I wanted to ask what type of grease you used to lubricate the bearings and seal? I also want to thank you for your video and all the information you provided within it.
I used a generic #2 bearing grease which more than likely is what the bearings came packed with and since it's bearing grease my thought is that it would be compatible with bearing seals too. Thank you so much for commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
I pray I'm on the right track. I have mine ready to come apart. My door bellow is glued on so I assume I have to buy the $80 replacement to get the drum out. Mine shakes like crazy when it gets up to speed like it has a jacket in it. It was making a squeal but cleaning the rubber seal seemed to help that. the bearing doesn't feel bad to me though. I get very little movement. Just barely enough to make a clunk moving it in and out and doesn't seem to have much play up and down. It has me puzzled bad. It almost looks like my drum is out of center a bit. I thought at first it may have broken a spring or shock but they are all ok. So would the bearing cause the shake? I kinda wonder if there is something between the inside and outside drum but that wouldn't throw it out of balance. Anyone have any feedback before I spend $200 on bearings, seals, and door bellow??
You're most welcome. I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
my same washer will start almost like there is no water to it i changed door switch nothing i changed water valve nothing door catch nothing! Any ideas what else could be? thx in advance
Nice video thanks alot! But it it too long, too much repeated words, talked toooooooooooooo much sir. Thanks also for the bearing links, but not sure the spec and which one is good enough. We do need high speed bearings.
You're most welcome. I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
My philosophy is, "If it is not broken don't fix it." But I also believe that if you see wear or decay in any of those parts I would replace them. As far as I am concerned if it looks like it's about to break, replace it." Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
I also have a frigidaire gallery and was told by appliance parts pros Frigidaire don't sale the bearing kit and I have to buy the entire tub that comes with the bearings and seal. Is that true?
Hi, this video is quitte old but am wandering if i can get some advise. A piece of plastic from my tub, at the back broke loose. Essentially the tub is broken. I think I could glue the piece back to avoid water coming out. However, I don't know what led to this. It make a huge sound and then, when spinning, it make a bad sound...do you think it is over and not worth trying to repair?
they want 400 odd dollars for the half tub with bearings pressed in.....figures! (and of course the website where you finally find that part doesnt seem to list the bearings
good video. i have model # LTF2140ES0 and I am being told that I have to replace the entire rear shell if the bearings are bad. This if true makes it a $240 vs $40 fix. Dosent make sense that I would be unable to get the bearings out.
+Tim Rourke It would be much easier for the repair man just to replace the entire rear shell but it certainly would not be cheaper. My repair still holds over a year and half later so it has more than paid for it's self. Thanks.
Hi Richard, this video was extremely helpful. One problem however. After replacing the bearings, I cannot get the drum to go back in all the way. The bolt receptor formerly stuck all the way through the drum about an inch, however, it now is barely flush with the bottom of the small bearing, and doesn't stick out all the way. I have tapped on both bearings and they appear to be in all the way. Any advice?
You may have not seated the bearings correctly or you may have put the front bearing in the back and the rear bearing in the front. The front bearing is a different diameter than the rear. Though I doubt that you would get the shaft even close to that far in if you had them in backwards. Check your old bearings against the new ones to make sure you they are the same size too. Thanks.
Post script. I returned the bearings, and purchased the outer tub assembly with bearings installed from Sears. I still had the same issue with the drum not fitting through the bearings. So, in desperation, I used my dremel to sand down the axle of the tub and, voila, it fit through the bearings easily. I put everything back together and the washer is working like a charm. In hindsight, I probably could've kept the bearings I bought for the old tub assembly. but, live and learn. Again, thank you for the detailed video, I probably watched it 50 times, to get it right.
I did everything as shown but spindle will not go through rear outer bearing. spindle end seems larger than spindle outer bearing surface. ant suggestions?
The right size should slide on and off a clean shaft that isn't deformed. Try inserting the spindle into the outer bearing from the REAR. If it fits, the inner bearing isn't seated squarely. If it doesn't you received the wrong size outer bearing. Since all the replacement kits are not OEM, It wouldn't be unusual to receive a wrong size bearing, and the cheaper the set, the more likely that is. The time to check bearings for shaft fit parts for fit is before pressing them unto place. An interchange guide should let you check OD and ID from the numbers on the outer races. I had to do this a second time, when after a year the bargain bearing set failed. Now I know why it was 1/3 the cost of Amazons "Best" rated set that carries a 5 year warranty.
Have you ever taken a look at how much grease the manufacturer puts in them? I have that's why I grease them. You can't over grease them but they can certainly be under greased. Thank you so much for commenting and watching. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Here's a picture with the correct orientation i.ebayimg.com/images/g/jJQAAOSwAuZX2fAa/s-l500.jpg The side with the spring should be facing the bearing. The side with only rubber on it should be the side that is exposed to water (facing the inside of the tub). Thank you so much for commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
invest in a water softening system and your washer, sink, toilets, dishwasher,faucets,etc. will last 10X longer. Hard water ruins everything! Also your skin will be softer and you will save money on lotion.
Moderately hard municipal water (like from Lake Michigan) is insidious. Adding vinegar to the bleach and softener dispenser cups with every load and using half the detergent from what is recommended with get normally soiled clothes cleaner and whiter each time you wash while it leaches away the calcium build from the outside of the inner tub, the spider, door seal and window.
Yes there are two bearings that require replacement as well as one seal. Here are some purchasing options High Quality Front Load Crosley Washer Tub Bearing and Seal Kit Fits Tub 131525500: amzn.to/1pxrSFK At Ebay: goo.gl/DTPzUi Frigidaire Bearing & Seal Kit Front Load Washer 131525500 At Amazon: amzn.to/2eEcY1H also here at Amazon: amzn.to/2sHHYcI or Ebay: goo.gl/uQku2Y also here at Ebay: goo.gl/bH8uf3 And NO do not scrap the washer. Mine is still working fine after the repair I show in the video. That's over the 3 years of service without issue. I actually don't believe the new washers are as well built as these older washers so I will continue to service mine as required. Thanks.
No I did not need to replace the tub gasket/seal between the two halves. Be gentle removing it and cleaning it (avoid stretching it) and you should be fine with it. I certainly believe these washers are worth repairing. I love mine and I will keep it going as long as I can. I believe it's a better washer than most new ones available. It has no computers or foreign hard to get expensive parts. It's just works and does what it's supposed to do well. Thanks.
I couldn't get the center shaft from the inner metal tub out of the rear tub - it was rusted and fused together... I finally gave up after hitting it with a hammer and all.
Alana D Try spraying some penetrating oil on the shaft where the bearing meets it. Give it an hour or so to penetrate and try it again. Do this several times. Use a piece of wood to protect the end of the shaft from damage. If you know someone who is handy with tools and mechanics maybe ask them for help. Thanks.
I wasn't able to get it apart, but thanks so much for the video and quick response. I ended up finding the same washer on Craigslist for $100 with broken shocks and everything else new... Made myself a frankenmachine and saved a lot of money.
Alana D LOL You are welcome. Frankenwasher, I really like this washer I know it will serve you well for a long time and saving money is a joy too. Thanks for sharing and watching.
+Alana D Yea, the shocks and shock mounts go out on these machines all the time. I always look for broken appliances just for the parts and I can save the repair customer alot of money.
Is the motor working and does it make noise when you take the belt off and run it? If it does not then you are good. If it does then the bearings in the motor are worn and the only fix for that is replace the motor. If you replace the motor take the brushes off as they are a wear item you can use on any new motor you get. Thanks.
An electrical motor normally has some play along the length of the rotor. (3 to 6mm). When energized the rotor centers laterally within the stator's field.
Hi Richard thanks sharing your video with us , I have a Frigidaire Gallery front load 11 cycles tumble care cleaning model Fwt647ghso with bearing problems as well ! My question is the bearing your that you bought for yours is it going to work to my machine thanks again !
Tore mine all apart because drum would not move at all.... come to find out somehow a piece of clothing worked it's way into the outer tub and jammed the inner tub.... how it did that I have no clue...why didn't you remove the counter weight instead of wrestling all that weight?
I have a frigidaire model FTF630ASO. Can I buy just the bearing kit or for that machine ? It seems that according to the user´s manual the bearing comes with the shell all togethe
Yes you can buy just the bearing kit. The manufacturers only sell the rear half of the tub with the bearings pre-installed but the bearings are available separately from third party sources. Here they are at Ebay: goo.gl/NknG38 make sure you choose your model number from the compatible model drop down box. Your model FTF630ASO is listed there. Thanks
THANK you SO much! I try to fix stuff if possible, and when I saw that this tub shell with bearings installed as $380 I was - well, peeved. I wasn't sure of the right bearing to press into the tub shell, and no repair person was willing to do it, or guide me to the right bearing kit to purchase. I thought that was strange. Anyway, thank you, thank you! A 12 pack and an afternoon to get this done (I hope)! :)
As long as you are careful to only hit the outer race of the bearing in a balanced way there should be no damage to the bearing. If you hit the inner race you will most certainly damage the bearing. Thank you for watching, commenting and the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best. 👍😀
You are welcome. I can't really tell you how long it would take because I am filming the whole process which adds hours to the job that would not be there if I just did the job without filming. I would say you should be able to get the job done in approximately an hour and half. Thank you.
This kit should fit your machine At Amazon: amzn.to/2unDqGu You can see this page says the kit is a match www.thebigbearingstore.com/kenmore-crosley-frigidaire-gibson-ge-front-load-washer-bearing-seal-kit-131525500-131462800-131275200/ Thanks.
Richard Lloyd Good morning. I just ordered the kit for the washer. My appliance repair man said this job could cost up to $600 or more. He said the bearings are not replaceable and I should just replace the back drum or just get a new washer. I am disappointed in him for not even looking or wanting to try. I have a project calling my name. The other news is that my home warranty sent me a new washer so now i can take my time and play with the bearing replacement. Thanks for the great video and if you need a beer and a laugh or two stop by.
I'm not an appliance repair mechanic. It took me 3 hours to get the drum ready to be removed from the springs. An hour of that was getting the front bellows off the cabinet front, because I didn't know where to start. From that point it was easier. Unless you have a nice working area and your tools all ready, I would plan a full day and be happy if it ran shorter than that.
Hi Richard,I did this repair, thanks for the great video, however after putting it back together and running an empty wash cycle on hot I a noticing with the front panel off a very very very slow drip coming from where the concrete weights are located on the front bottom of the machine. Wondering if you noticed/experienced this. Could it be some leftover water (we gave all the internals a good scrubbing) or is it something else? The seal appeared in excellent condition and was very lightly cleaned and put back in. Any help is appreciated
+Richard Lloyd I ran a load empty on hot after hooking it back up yesterday and it dripped about a tablespoon worth for the whole load. Ran another load after with clothes and it dripped maybe 1/2 a tablespoon, I will continue to monitor but am hoping it is what myself and my stepdad suspected, leftover water in the frame dripping out as the machine agitates.
Great video. Thank you. I have a washer exactly like the one in your video. I am guessing I have a bearing problem because I took the belt off like you suggested and the motor was pretty quite. I then reattached the belt and ran it on spin cycle. The bearing seem fine until it gets to the super fast speed. I checked the wiring diagram and it says it has three speeds, slow, normal, and fast but it seems to me it has four. Slow, normal, fast, and super fast. When it hits the last one it starts knocking so loud it sounds like it is ready to explode. But it doesn't make a single knock on the other speeds or when I manually turn it. I assume that the bearing is bad and will obviously get worse. Would you agree or could there be another issue?
+mfree007 It may also be the spider bracket on the back of the drum. It holds the drum to the bearing axle and has been known to corrode and break. Regardless you will have to disassemble drum housing to see if that is the problem. I am speculating here as I don't have access to your machine to hear this noise and you could be right about the bearing. You may want to do some exploratory work and take it apart to check the spider. Google "washer spider" to see what I am talking about. If it is the spider bracket there are videos out there that show how to fix that too. I have not had a problem with that part so I have not made a video on it. Update us on what you found. Thanks.
I think this just answered my issue. I was washing my work uniforms which are pretty heavy. Makes sense to me. My drum looks crooked and like the front hangs down. makes a noise like its burning rubber,
Great video! Question: I have error code E52 so I was getting an Ohm reading from the motor (which turned out Good 115) which then calls for replacing the speed control board but the I noticed the drum wheel does not spin manually more than a quarter turn before coming to a dead stop. I see your able to make complete rotation, do you think my bearing might be shot and is causing the error code rather than needing a new speed control board? Thanks in advance.
I don't have any digital controls on mine. As shot as my bearings were I could still spin the drum by hand fully from the front before I took it apart. I would take the rear cover off to have a look. You may have a seized motor or drum bearing. If you take the belt off you can spin each one separately to find out what's going on. Thanks
Speed control doesn't mechanically lock the drum, its safety is the door lock. If you cant''t turn the drum freely with the belt off, the bearing is broken internally.
Do ypu happen to know the part number for the shocks for this washer? I started watching this video, and realized that the shocks were probably my real problem. Went to look under the machine, and yep. Both shocks are toast.
Make sure to check the fit On Amazon. BTW they are cheaper on eBay but Amazon has the best return policy if they don't fit. They made like 15 different models and they all look the same. Frigidaire 5304485917 Shock Kit At Amazon: amzn.to/3NoZ6Jl or eBay: ebay.us/d9jj0L (Affiliate links. Helps me on RU-vid and does not cost you any extra if you use them) Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Is it possible to go to a bearing shop and replace the balls within the bearing yourself? I was told this is possible for under $10 and a lot cheaper than buying a Bosch $80 part (after shipping). Do you know where there is info or a video on how to do this?
I don't know about replacing the balls in the bearings but you can source the bearings outside of a kit by using the numbers on the bearings you have. In my case they are 6306 and 6307 but you will also need the inner seal too. Not sure if you would be able the get that at the same place. Thanks.
spyder gear was cracked because mine was an earlier model with no grounding strap on the back bearing housing. so this causes a breakdown in the dissimilar metals from current from motor with no alternate route since the whole thing is floating plastic drum.
Mr. richard I have a question I have a washer like this machine my problem the motor does not run the question before buying the engine any way to test only the engine or any idea that you can give me thanks
If you have a meter you can see if there is any power being sent to the motor when you start a wash. If there is power at the motor and it is not turning it's probably blown. Here is a link for a free meter to test it with www.hfqpdb.com/coupons/11_FREE_7_FUNCTION_DIGITAL_MULTIMETER_1461616439.6687.JPG Thanks.
Richard Lloyd , Hello Richard my problem is: the startbutton do not work.(I can not start the machine.) Last week everything was fine. 3days before with the door and the retaining box,for soap etc.,was open. The lights where flickering. From that time ,I pulled the power cable out of the wall. After I filled up the machine with cloth to wash,nothing worked anymore. No lights ,nothing! What must I do now? I smelled no burning, no sound nothing. No door lock sound. Richard please help. Robert,Stokking. klipperaak@hotmail.com Water pressure was ok,door was closed,retainer was full inside.
Hi Richard, I have a 2007 Frigidaire washing machine. I remove the back panel, i noticed that the pully rubbed against the plastic part of the drum. I noticed that plastic shavings was in my clothes, would it be worth replacing or get a new one. Motor, everything else works just fine, and also would this be caused by the bearings, brown stain all around the inside of the machine cover.
I would do some exploratory disassembly it sounds like your bearings are shot but there is only one way to know for sure. Take a look, assess the damage and go from there. Thanks.
What do you figure it would cost to have a repair guy do the bearing? I have literally the exact washer and the bearing is shot but motor is ok.. It seems like a tedious job..
It depends on many factors, like the repair guy you hire, how much he charges per hour or he will do it for a flat rate for the job and whether he is supplying the parts or not. Thanks.
Use WD-40 or similar penetrating oil and let it sit for a few hours, preferably so that the oil is drawn in by gravity. You may use a hammer on it if it does not move but only after you let the oil penetrate. Use a hardwood block on top of the shaft to protect it from being damaged by the hammer. Also make sure the drum is not resting on the floor when you are attempting to take the drum out as you will damage the drum. All the best.
The seal is 1312757. The large bearing is 63078SD and the small bearing is 6306RSD I did find a kit on eBay for $14.00 www.ebay.com/itm/Kenmore-Front-Load-Washer-Bearing-Seal-Kit-131525500-131462800-131275200/190983067584?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D777000%26algo%3DABA.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29007%26meid%3D86b0fea4868a4aad9b2f17e4368126ef%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D271785506798
+noe lop It is near impossible for me to diagnose a machine without having physical access to it. I would contact a professional to have a look at it or perhaps a freind who is handy with machines. Thanks.
Hi, thanks for the vid. When in spin cycle or at any point it tries to spin the drum, mine makes the same loud buzzing noise as it does when it's stuck, and the machine is not spinning at all. It attempts to and rotates maybe a quarter inch or so, then back after seemingly being kaput. Any idea what would cause that? I have the exact machine, btw. I have not tried spin cycle without belt. Here's a vid to see and hear what mine's doing: ru-vid.comUYPLqRYRjbo
It sounds like it not draining water. If the water does not drain I do not believe it will continue the cycle if it senses that the water has not been drained from the drum. Check the water pump, but be aware that if there is water in the drum and you open up the system the water will drain out. Sometimes coins and such debris make their way into the drain pump and jam it. I siphon the water from the drum prior to working on the pump. Thank you so much for commenting, watching and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
