From all of us who work in businesses where we sell products that have wear-and-tear parts, and we sell the replacement parts: WE FEEL YOUR PAIN. EXCELENT tutorial! Thanks for sharing.
Anyone new to using these tools.... don't forget you need to lubricate the screw threads on the tools. These are steel screws applying force to the threads inside the aluminum tool body. I actually use motor oil but even a light grease should be fine. These tools will last a long time if you don't abuse them.
My experience with this tool and for that matter everything HCS provides to the hobby is top flight. This rear wheel hub puller for performance cars is no exception. Works flawlessly.
I appreciate you Mr Flynn!! You've been more than helpful on the phone, emails and all the RU-vid videos,thank you. I have put my tools to work straight away and am really enjoying tinkering around with these cars.
Personally own the HCS press and the hub puller. Both are excellent tools. Also have the larger puller like the purple one in the video. Bought the HCS puller for the exact purpose it is specifically made for. Adjusting or removing rear wheels/hubs with the axle still in the chassis. In my case I wanted it specifically for removing rear wheels from original Aurora AFX and Magnetraction which have captured rear axles in order to remove hair, threads and lint. The larger puller like the purple one won't fit. The HCS puller does it perfectly. It is an excellent tool. The larger puller is needed for other purposes. Specifically for adjusting the crown gear location quickly and easily without removing wheels. There is a bit of an art to using all of these tools. It's all very simple but not necessarily obvious if you aren't used to doing it. The HCS puller is specialized so use it for that purpose. Don't needlessly damage it. Use a larger puller when you can. It is a bit stronger and if you try to pull a wheel off an axle with a knurled end it usually will even though that is pushing your luck. You may do this accidentally not even knowing the axle is knurled. Lifelike T looks about the same as a Lifelike M rear and the same issue with Tyco versus Mattel. When it comes to front axles a puller would be nice but it really isn't needed because the knurled ones are junk and you don't need a puller to remove the wheels from the smooth ones. Just put old junk tires on the wheels for grip and twist a wheel off with your fingers. Not hard to do. Adjusting is trickier but it isn't rocket science.
I love mine but it's like a speciality tool for rear hubs on race cars not toys (mass produced) cars. Great video for new people and know it all's. Thanks for your great work and have a great day
Thanks for this video. I am new to modern slot cars and the G+ cars compared to the old AFX/Aurora cars surprised me at how kid friendly they are, coupled with a tri-power pack or the adjustable AW power pack.. I know the higher quality cars are fast but the Mega G+ are plenty fast for me and the grands for now. As for the Wheel Hub Tool It takes some detailed reading of the "fine print" on the listing on the website, many are not going to read that. Just a suggestion. Put "Rear" Wheel Puller in the description title on the website. I understand your frustration and appreciate the video about the cars. Keep in mind of the people who are just getting into these, and reintroduced due to grand children like me. (actually just an excuse, right?) I may or may not get into the more quality cars, but for now just trying to get decent cars that stay mostly on the track and those of us with OCD fix the little problems and satisfy our "detail" fixations. I have a car that makes a grinding sound in the corners so I just bought this tool/rear axle spacers, with the idea of fine tuning/taking out the play on the mega G+ rear axles of the others maybe. Not sure how much it will help, but hey, have to try right? I also have a problem with 2 new MG+ C8 bodies rubbing on the front wheels, they were making weird sounds on left hand corners and found out about the freaking ringed ends on the front axle. I tried to search before but did not find anything, doesn't mean it was not out there, like I found here, after the fact. But sometimes we (I) get impatient........and we have to find out for ourselves. I would not try and blame anyone else, other than the manufacturer in this case. After discovering it was basically a disposable front end, WTH, why? I ended up pressing the other front hubs together tighter so they cleared better and seems solid(did not have to move it much). So look for an order from me for a couple front ends. I may wait to see what else I need. I also had to make an order with Viper for 52 magnets for the Sebring MG+ rocket I bought. That car and the body shape want to fly off the track everywhere at 12V.
I completely understand Terry's frustration at the misuse of his baby. I'm guilty of using it to pull brass pinion gears off of .059 armatures. If I screw it up, that's on me. I've gotten a lot of use out of that tool and if I break it, I'd definitely buy another. Scale Engineering makes a metal pinion puller but I just can't afford to throw money at rare tasks.
@@riggenracer I don't build many beasts but I'm currently building a level 35 neo 440x2 wide with screwed down bulkheads, bearings, and a 2.6 ohm Wizzard green wire arm. I doubt it really _needs_ metal gears, some of the glass filled RPM gears are probably more than up to the task but, if I can make it work, what the hell, looks cool anyway even if it's overkill.
Well, apparently, the dude that screwed up, the Puller has no mechanical skills whatsoever he shouldn’t even be tinkering around with slot cars. I hope this dude doesn’t work on his own car that is if he even has a drivers license