Hello friend I have a quick question concerning using a laptop power converter with my Artin track which currently lacks power , it uses a dc output of 6 v, 1.2 A. If I adapt a laptop converter should I only focus on the current or voltage must also be a thing to consider ? Thanks for your help
Use 2 12volt deep cycle batteries in series with a Parma 45 ohm controller . Works with G cars, lifelike would burn up . Life like sux . Nice bodies though .
Old G plus ( motor in frame ) we used to use tyco axle about .005 thinner would help with handling . Chassis would rock a bit . Also used to tweak the chassis ( bend them ) boiling water and a machinists vise . This enabled a larger rear tire with the same chassis hight more in the front for more top end with a taller wheel . I used to cheat a bit with the stock gravity magnets . I found rare earth magnet disc’s and would file down an area on top of the stock magnets under the The magnet chassis clip hid the rare earth magnet . Looked perfectly stock . Hollow axles weren’t allowed either but a drop of super glue and a touch of silver paint over the open ends did that trick . We use 24volt…2 deep cycle car batteries in series with the charger on during races . A Parma controller with 45 ohm resistor with or without brakes the way we wired them . The G cars were excellent with this power ( tyco also ) . Rocar would burn up most times . Also used Amrack body’s on the G’s with some plastruct tee plastic that clipped into the chassis body clip area . That old white Porsche body was great in our sports classes . Have fun !
I Think ! This LOOKS ! WAY TOO ! MUCH !! A.F.X ! Ish ! Totally SAD ! KENBRITE ! Weren't ! Still Together ! With TYCO ! NITE GLOW DOUBLE LOOPER and Command Control ! ) Of the Late Seventys early Eighties !
I found this set in one of my local Goodwill stores several years ago. Unfortunately, t was missing the two small track supports, but everything else was there. I'm still looking for the two small track supports before I attempt to assemble it.
If the shoe is floating, doesn’t that make the spring the primary current path? Is the spring able to handle the current without removing the temper from it?
Thank you so much for posting this. I bought a lot of these very tracks years ago and am finally going to bust them out. As I figured, we gotta do a little work with the wheels, as well as getting those motors warmed up a bit. :)
can you swap in upgraded traction magnets, without having to take the entire chassis apart? I just want to upgrade the traction magnets, but being an AFX guy, I only have 1 Tyco chassis and I have very little experience with them. mostly get turned off dealing with the pickup shoe springs, my hands and old eyes always have trouble just replacing a pickup shoe on them.
I had this track growing up... I'm shocked how easy you made the jump loop. I remember it had a trick to it... Like letting go of the accelerator at 25% of the loop.
So happy with the super 7s. I sat tgere looking at my 4 beautiful Super 111 licensed livery bodies and dreading the massive maintenance it took just to keep them running. Now, they are the hottest looking and performing things on the track.
I had two original release super iii chassis In my box for years that I could never get to run right. I decided to mess with them the for the past few nights. I got one running quite good. For me the culprits were primarily the gears and how the shoes fit on the brush barrels. I put a Lifelike M Chassis rear axle in with some slip on silicones. And that quieted it a bunch. I played with brush tension and checked the armature wasn’t binding. I ended up setting some very fast lap times with it. It was slightly dragging in the back and riding high in the front. I ended up crashing it and breaking the shoe retainer off the front of the chassis. I ordered a bunch of parts and 2 bare chassis to mess with. Meanwhile I rigged the chassis up with a paper clip to hold the shoe but the car lost .5 seconds somehow. I took it completely apart. I put in a 3 ohm arm from a Tyco HPX2. It needed 3 or 4 spacers on the rear. I put the factory AW spacers on the front. I used the HPX2 brushes and I put the tyco HPX2 pinion on plus the Lifelike axle and crown in. It had no balls. I futzed with it for almost 2 hours and traced it to the shoe in one side not making great contact to the brush barrels. Plus the spring was also played out on that side. I tweaked it around best I could and the car TOOK OFF! It set the fastest lap my track ever saw. I also added some Neo disc magnets to the outside of the chassis that are helping the motor magnets. It definitely helped. I think shunts from the shoes to the tubes would be great but not super fun to do. It’s also dead quiet now with different gears. Is it still a super iii? I don’t know but it’s easy to work on and moves good now. I think anybody messing with these cars that wants to help them out is to change the rear gears. It’s dramatic. The motors can run not too badly if you make sure they are getting good contact at the brush tubes and aren’t binding at all , plus oil them often. Auto world cars look great but they aren’t for people who don’t like to tinker.
Man, these videos of yours have helped me enjoy this hobby exponentially. I've got 50 HO cars, 32 of them are Tyco 440x2 and Hp7s. They ALL run WAY BETTER than when I bought them brand new because of these workbench videos. I just ordered my 3rd and 4th Super 7 chassis last night. This video will be saved in my workbench playlist. I highly recommend ho slotcar owners do this. A round of applause for Terry FLynn for not only revitalizing this hobby but also moving it forward.
Contacted Terry for a controller for my track…cars …Tjet he recommended the DS …..AND AM totally satisfied with them….as a good all around controller…..have a model motoring track that I had when I first started in the hobby……thanks Terry….very satisfied…Harden creek is the best……🏎️🏎️🏎️🏎️🏎️🏎️ Charlie
I'm scared of high end mega$$$ electronic controllers due to the desire to be able to run at any track voltage. This may no longer be an issue but used to hear horror stories about running a low ohm magnet car at 22 volts and frying a power transistor in the last few heats which leads to a $150 repair and shipping bill and no controller for a month. In HO, I never have to fear a wire wound resistor burning up on me. It was possible to burn one up when I was running 1/24 scale wing cars because they can pull some outrageous current but that's a different story.
Thanks Terry. I would really appreciate a short addendum to this episode where you talk a little about metal gears. I had a low quality press that I bent a pretty nice coated axle on while trying to press a metal gear on. I then discovered Mitchell's abrasive cord and figured out how to use that stuff to finely "tune" the ID on the metal gears to maintain a tight press-on fit but not so tight that it either bent the axle or stripped off the coating. Any tips or tricks you have for metal gears would be great.
Metal gear systems are really an advanced part system. Usage is actually extremely low. Because of the complexity and skill needed to install metal gears correctly, I do not carry or sell the parts. So, really, they are not 'my favorite parts'.
@@riggenracer I understand what you are saying but you clearly do use them on occasion and you did say you could go into them a little at a latter time. I don't think anyone is looking for the definitive guide to metal gears but I do build neo cars as do many others and anything you might have to contribute would be much appreciated. Even if it doesn't make you money. IDK, maybe it's not worth your time but I know there's a group of people that would get a lot out of anything you might have to share. Maybe a short video on neo builds as a whole or something along those lines if the subject of metal gears alone is too "niche" for you. I hope you'll reconsider. Thanks.
I found his website when i got back into the hobby after a 30 year break and I'll tell you this. Look, Terry's the man when it comes to ho mods. He's helped me bring my racing game to the next level and beyond. The tech support straight from him is what keeps me going back for more parts on top of the good prices. Plus nobody else is offering reward points. If you have a question he'll answer it and never steer you wrong. The interview tells it all
