Guys can everyone like this video so Mike can buy a drill press please 🙏 😂just watching him drill some thick ass steel like that by hand gives me PTSD. I spent 200 bucks and it changed my life
This was the car that got me into your channel. Great work, and like all things, thanks for showing the true ups and downs of building fast cars. It's a series of highs and lows, and you have been honest with us all the way. Good luck and god speed, sir!
Get E85 sooner rather than later, if not for making more power, just for cooling, knock resistance, reliability, etc. Should be higher on the list, right up there with oil coolers, trans coolers, radiators, surge tanks, dry sumps, etc. Less risk of knock, lower overall temps, lower cylinder temps, less risk of ring expansion, more fuel volume so less error in nailing the air/fuel mixture, etc. You know this man. Why is this on the back burner? Wiring it up is simple to a generic FFS or Haltech FFS, and it will be easier to integrate it into the harness prior to installing the engine. Can't remember if you already made a provision on the harness. Like, won't you have to pull the engine to get to the fuel tank to install an E85 compatible fuel pump?
Love your build Mike. Keep it up. Quick tip, buy a column drill, even a 50 dollar used one will make drilling hole 50 times easier than with a hand drill ;)
@9:00 no need to wait even 10 minutes for a 3d printed template. Create drawing > set scale 1:1 > delete borders and title block from drawing (if it's in the way) > Add center marks to all holes > Print. You have a template.
Mike, the content you put out has always been great, and continually improves regardless of the type of video it is. Don't sweat the haters. I really dig your short film-style videos that are just there to tell a story that's important to you. Happy to see build content too of course, but I'm just glad you're able to pursue and share your passion. Speaking of which, can't wait for the new project. Saw it on Patreon and there's no doubt that it is absolutely bonkers and cool as hell!
Mike what you're doing is so inspiring! This is the attention to detail I want in all of my builds. Thanks for bring us along on on the journey! I cant wait to see you ripping this thing around again soon.
@@StanleyKubick1 Yeah, I've got a bench sander, drill press, a band saw, and a small router table from them. I've used them for so many projects. Excellent value for what I use them for!
@@StanleyKubick1my 7 year old reciprocating saw finally died last weekend. Started snaking, but kept going for several cuts, but after I let it cool down it wouldn’t work at all. It was a sad day. Already bought a new one.
Perfection can interfere with progress. Thanks for walking us through your thought process on the engine mount. There's diminishing returns as you approach perfection... and in this case, a cliff you drop off (do-over) if you go too far.
Yes! Some Fezza action. Super keen to see how this setup runs. I just listened to the HPA podcast interviewing Matt Wright from Turbosmart and these turbos have had a lot of development go into them. Exciting stuff!
13:15 I can tell there's a constant struggle with getting something "perfect" or getting something just safe and functional. I know it's hard but kudos to you for letting go so the project can move forward.
Whether it makes more or less ultimate power than the last set-up, I am sure that it will make more useful power. Kyle from BoostedBoiz is just going back to a K24 in his MR2, you should go and visit him, he has put turbo K series in a Civic AWD, NSX, Odyssey, MR2, air boat and a jet boat. Oh and with the right parts he can rebuild a Quaife sequential gearbox in minutes, look at his last video.
I am hoping to see a future video with "Scotty the tuning fork" from Haltech in Sydney doing some tuning either remotely or better still in person. Since I am from Australia it is great to see some Aussie designed and built gear being used in builds like yours around the world. I agree with Christoper's comment on the drill press. Maybe I should get one as well. Mine is a stand that mounts my power drill, it's better than nothing and does drill square.
I almost wish you out a washer on it rather than rebuilding the engine mount! But that’s why I love you, you’re the most meticulous builder and a great video maker
I love friday night ( in my local time ) mike, donut, bigtime and some of other automotive youtube channel is uploading their newest video in almost sequential time order 😂
Love that you also always have future maintenance in mind. You're not just slapping something together like gasmonkey does. Though there are some OEM-horrorstories too😂
I heard you say Laguna Seca and think I will drive on down there to see this car in person since following along this entire journey. As always, keep up the amazing work!
If you wanna save steel you can make test tube cuts out of PVC. I made an entire roll cage in PVC then copied it in steel and only had to cut the steel once.
Crazy to think it's almost been a year, but that's really just how it goes. Life is hectic and time slips away when you're not looking. Hell, I can't believe it's already August. No clue where this year has gone. Either way, glad to see the A sold and finally off the checklist and the engine in the Ferrari. One step closer to getting this thing back on track (hopefully for Laguna), and the next project reveal. Although somewhere in there i hope the Audi gets put back together, even if it's just an OEM+ build vs the original vision.
Other RU-vidrs, "THIS MAY BE THE GREATEST MOD I'VE DONE YET" and it's a 19 minute video about dress-up washers on their coolant tank. Mike, "I don't want to make a big deal of nothing." As he drops a new power plant into his race car that actually gets used
put mire mesh around it to cage it and serve as a low weight first line defense, i saw a drifter do something similar with his headers to prevent rubber spray from landing on exhaust can causing fire.
Does not that fuel cell braket look a bit "weak"? Fuel cell is quite heavy, and combined with massive vibrations and g-forces (when you hit bumps) i think it might crack those two welds. Think i would add one more attachment point from the plate to the cage.
I just don’t know why he didn’t go for radium. They solved the whole problem and he has 4p money for it. If I had the money I would easily order and pay taxes for some American radium.
8:45 A more direct method, with a time of making the plate in under half an hour. Any tool described that you don't have, you should get. These are vital fab tools any self respecting fabricator should have in their shop. This is not a slap down, this is just how i'd tweak the process. Efficiency in making is what allows you to distill more congruent ideas later on. The more you complicate something, the more you can get lost off the path. And while that method itself has merit in some places, this is... just an engine mount plate. 1. Three centre finder grub screws in the mount holes. (They come inside a pen shaped holder that's also the wrench to get them in or out of the reference hole and they're found in all the common sizes both in imperial and metric flavors). 3. Compass > three circles. Ruler > three tangent lines to define the perimeter. 2. Piece of plate of the correct thickness over the three grub screws + one healthy wack of a rubber mallet to indent the plate with three divots. 4. Take the plate to the drill press, drill the three holes using at least two drills of smaller to larger (final) sizes to have perfect accuracy. (This is where you quickly use a reamer bit to ream the holes for that perfect clean look - always keep a reaming bit at your drill press). 5. Take a piece of MDF, use the final drill size to drill a hole. Remove drill bit, put it shank down into the MDF (at the ende) and use it to perfectly shape the radiused corners with a belt sander by rotating the part over the belt on the shank of the drill bit. Finish by meeting the tangent lines as well. (This is where a scotchbrite belt would be useful after to clean up the plate and polish it, thus also prepping it for welding). Just my two cents, but keeping the process clean allows you greater control over the end process. This is not a diss of 3D printing or skinning the cat in the other 999 ways, i've been printing 3D components since before the patent expired back when printers were really expensive - house expensive, this is a "nudge" to a routine cleanup. I genuinely think your creative process could gain a lot from some simplification.
Please tell me those are locking nuts on that guard. Last thing you need is engine and pump vibration back those nuts off and your guard going walkies on track...
Wow. I thought I was the only person who sucked at drilling holes. Even with a sharp bit and dychem, a scribe and centre punch, and a sketchy drill press I can still manage to drill crooked.
I'd love to see your car with a turbo smart straight egate. I'm curious about the boost control and all the possibilities it opens. Love your content as always
First couple of minutes into this. If I'm correct, you got an Einstar scanner, right? You could scan the engine bay and the engine and assemble it all in Fusion or Blender to see if anything fits instead of actualy trying to fit it irl. Just a random tip noone asked for. I've scanned multiple engines and engine bays at this point just to check if the sawp would fit.
I was about to ask why you choose to make the paint/vinyl job look like the Audi Quattro scheme, and then I saw what was in the back of the shoot when you unpacked the turbo. Answered 👍😄
Mike, I may have missed it but there seemed to be no return from the surge tank back to the main tank? Its required as the main tank pump, pumps all the time and once the surge tank is full it will either stall or pressurise the tank! Yes the in tank surge pumps will be taking fuel but unless the 'low' pressure side flow is equal to the 'high' pressure side there will be an imbalance leading to pressurization or restricted fuel flow. If this has been covered - ignore this post!
Mark your holes, drill them in a drill press, then cut the part out. Far easier than hand drilling. Let the drill press do the hard work. Also, buy a drill press, they aren’t as expensive as that K20.
Yeah damn how has it been 8 months already, what is time haha. But the new setup is incredible, can't wait to see what it does on the dyno and on track
Maybe you already do but as im watching i thought , you should cover your protection shield in wheel arch carpet, stop it sounding like a gong and give more protection
1000 HP from an all-aluminum, economy car 2L engine, is a basically a dyno queen or 10 second drag racer. It will need rebuilds after a dozen runs. A dozen 10 second runs means that engine, at full power, will last maybe a couple minutes on the track before it grenades. Just like the last one. Dial it down to 400 HP, and it may last more than a few laps.
A buddy from San Antonio tried to build a high horse k motor for an AWD CRV. It broke everything. First axles and joints. Then diffs and a wheel. Then it lifted a head gasket. After that was fixed it cracked a.ring land on a very expensive forged piston. After months of this and thousands of dollars.fixing stuff AFTER the build was "completed", it went to the track. Poked a rod through the block in the burnout box. That was last spring. It still sits behind his shop today.
Looks of progress! I dig it. With Send Cut Send can they weld parts too? It will be cool to see this back out driving around, Glad you're making moves towards your goals!
Mike doesn't drill, so a drill press is extra money and less shop space. I bought a Milwaukee drill about 5 years ago and I think I've charged the battery maybe 3 times over those years. I've built maybe 6 cars over that time. Surprising how little drilling you do building track cars!
@@1one3_Racing "Once" is more than "doesn't". But being serious; a table top drill press takes up no room, and makes drilling metal so much easier (lots of pressure, low rpm). Much nicer than trying to do it by hand.
i have seen your ford motorsport hat a few times and that design is from the early 80's ... i was involved on a local level with SVO and had the same hat...too funny and so nice to see one in good shape...i have a modified c5 corvette now but have always wanted to do a modified SVO mustang....and yes its old tech but i love it simple...esslinger makes some nice pieces for the lima /pinto 2.3...
Not sure if you are a Star Trek fan, but the 244 GTK's livery reminds me of the race suits Tom Paris and B'Elanna Torres wear in the Voyager episode "Drive" (S7E3) 🖖
You said you didn't wanna put the engine in to make sure the surge tank would fit under the manifold then designed an entire new mounting configuration so you didn't have too just to put the engine in the car to make measurements for the new mounts anyways 😓
Mike, great to see you and the 244 back. Could you please comment further on the PracWorks manifold now that you have used it. Worth the money, performance increases over stock , noise etc? Thanks, in advance ;)
Maybe it's a dumb question, but wouldn't a K24 de-stroked to 86mm be better for rod ratio and keeping the same dimentions? (Second time i comment because it got deleted for some reason, might be a duplicated comment)
Ive always been told your turbo will lag the further you mount it from the head . Im sure you have space to get that turbo closer to the head. Or does current thinking say I'm wrong ?
With the new exhaust fabrication, and also wastegate fabrication. Why not Y pipe the exhaust so it’s coming out of both tailpipes all the time. Two flames out the back is better than one.
