“Buy once, cry once” , as some might say. Not to mention, buy local or at least USA made when possible for stuff like this. Great idea to make a video about this, I especially like the thought behind recommending the takedown recurve to increase the stability with the added mass at the grip. Thanks for sharing all the hard-earned wisdom!
I went to the store this weekend not even knowing what limb weight felt like so I think everyone should buy cheap once to get a baseline. Then cry the next time 😂 I’d hate to cry twice
Beginners! Pay attention as this is the good stuff and this instructor knows of that which he posts! Remember, draw the bow string between your eye and nose. Line up your draw arm elbow with the tip of your arrow to prevent short drawing your bow. Your release should be straight back. Focus on the spot you want to hit ! Enjoy!!
Beginning with a traditional bow rather than a compound is a great way to perfect the fundamentals. If you practice proper technique for 6-12 months without ever thinking about aiming, you'll have the foundation to learn to shoot any kind of bow you want.
I’ve watched a lot of different trad bow channels but your content has really helped. More than I can say about others. Thank you for the content. Glad to see a good ol Georgian putting out great content. Thank you again sir
With a steel ruler, a scribe, two little c clamps, a straight block & sandpapers, you can trim the draw weight on the BH bows, both style limbs. The line from inch and five eights full width at three inches from the bolt end, to eight inches away from limb tip in other words don’t touch that. Works on the recurve same measurements, a sixteenth off each side reduces draw weight up to ten pounds. Puts more of the limb length into action, eases getting it to your face!
Just started makin long form videos after finding your content. Love your videos. Simple, they dont have music blasting the whole time, and informative.
You did a fine job of explaining, in my older age, I simply prefer to not have a quiver on my bow. I have them if I change my mind but you need to practice with them on if you mean to hunt with them on. I saw that at the end of your video, the blood suckers made an appearance LOL. I have laminated bows, both recurve and longbows as well as take down longbows but I actually love and prefer my selfbows. I am able to make exactly what I like and prefer in weight, style and length as well as the wood type. keep em coming and get healthy and build up your strength again. Shine on Brother
Thanks Robert!! It's uncanny you've made this video now, I've just added Bow quivers to two of my trad Bows, 60" Super Kodiak and 58" Super Grizzly - and the stability certainly helps me as someone new to Trad! 9 months into Trad and loving it!!🙏
I did begin my bow shooting days with an olympic recurve, with sights, stabilizers and everything.. On a shooting club with some good trainers. Quickly learned the basics, stance, drawing, anchoring, aiming and the right way to release. After about half a year i also started shooting traditional. I very soon shot better then many of the guys who started with traditional as their first bow. Dont know if traning with olympic recurve helped me a lot or that its just because i am fanatic as hell, but for me this was the right way to go.
Nice takedown. Looks like a 1970s, I recently got my hands on an original A riser. It’s a slick shooter with that bit of additional weight to the riser.
The first bow I bought was a short recurve. I shot one deer with it that I never found. However, I learned a lot about short bows from it. It would stack before I reached full draw.
About the Black Hunter longbow. I purchased one for my daughter. It’s 35# at 28” and really not a bad bow for the money. When I was setting her bow up I became aware that this bow was of a higher quality than I expected. “However this was several years ago so not too sure what is out there now.” That prompted me to purchase one for myself. I bought the longbow version and yes they have a recurve version. I use my black hunter to warm up. I shoot a few arrows at ten and 12 yards to limber up. Then I shoot my 47# ‘Stalker Stickbow and 49# @ 28” custom double carbon longbow. Once I’ve conditioned my muscle tension and regained the necessary muscle tone. I can work my way up and shoot my (bear 50#) (Howatt Hunter 54#) and the option to shoot my (65# Howatt Hunter.) the 65# is the bow I’ve killed the most deer with. Now at 71 years old 45-50 pounds works for me. You’ve got to have the strength to shoot heavy poundage. I started shooting a bow when I was six. A bow has been part of my life ever since.
With a Black Hunter, I really like the option to inexpensively move up in draw weight while learning. It's also an inexpensive way to try out recurve and longbow limbs to find which you like best.
Hey Robert i have 3 of the cheap $ 100 Black Hunter Bows and love them! Just getting back to trad bows and been shooting every day and getting better each day. Super fun pass time. I hope to be good to hunt with a long bow by this season and maybe retire my $1000 wheel bow! Hope to see ya in the woods!😁
Noticed an old Bear static recurve on ebay. Ever shoot one? Highly reflexed and then they've got that non bending banana sticking out front. Supposed to be fast. Good video. Thanks.
So glad I found your Channel. Thanks for some great videos! I started shooting a traditional bow with two piece 1950s Ben Pearson longbow. It was suggested to me that a recurve might be better. So I switched over to a Chicom black hunter longbow. I haven't shot it yet but we'll see how I do. I'm looking forward to learning more on your Channel. I do Wonder though if I might benefit from a 68 inch longbow. Although I'm only 65 inches and the bows I have have shot to date are 60 in. Thanks again for the great Channel and God bless.
Your actual draw length and bow design has more to do with bow length. I prefer a longer bow because of less finger pinch on broken up fingers. Less finger pinch eguals more forgiving release as well. Thanks for watching.
Note lots of the cheaper kids and bigger kids to smaller adult bows especially the inexpensive all fiberglass bows from Bear or the other models are either Semi--Recurve or Longbow ASL/Shortbow in American Style Shortbow, ASS. The thing I think is for kids the Longbow ASL/Shortbow ASS or higher reflex deflex/Semi-Recurve is going to be easier for a kid to use in drawing where it is often less of that initial micro stack some recurve designs have where the kid is often lacking in the coordination if they have the strength. This might help some in deciding. Then again the few brands are making kids recurve bows/bows made for beginners, mainly takedown bows in a Samick/Southwest Archery design with a few one piece like the 60 inch PSE Snake or the crappy SAS Snake bows with a true kids 48 inch model that has the same skinny riser as the full sized 60 inch SAS Snake.
I shoot both. I don't shoot compound and never will. My longbow is a 66"-55# I love it, but a pain in the brush. My recurve is take down and 60" and does much better in tight tree stands
Robert, each time I see that osage self bow, I like it even more. The look is just so pure, and the tiller is incredible. I have made maybe 20 bows, and I think 5 osage self bows. I would caution novice shooter's or former compound shooter's from trying to go from recurve or compound to using a self/primitive bow in a short period of time. I think I jumped the gun on going all in with primitive equipment, not understanding it could take years to get good. I think I am a decent shot with a recurve, but I really struggle with consistency with my self bows. Part of that may be because I think I make them too heavy. Thank you Lord, for these videos.
Well Steve, you can always lighten them a little bit and it should make a big difference. Even being just a little bit over bowed makes a difference in consistency. That's the beauty of the self bow, you can make them to fit you like you want for the best performance for you. The true tiller is at full draw, some bows look like limbs are not while at rest but great at full draw. Some look great at rest but lousy at full draw.
@@jerrycox2058 yeah Jerry I am trying to finish a self bow I started 15 years ago. It was meant to be my fastest bow, a bow based on a pyramid shaped bow Tim Baker built for the chapter on Bow Design and Performance in Traditional Bowyer's Bible. I keep taking more off, but it doesn't seem to reduce the weight, and I know that is just my perception. I think I used to be afraid I would take too much off and then I would've wasted all that time, and a good piece of wood...I'm gonna stick with her, thanks
@@stevedriscoll2539 What kind of wood are you using for this bow? Shorter bows do have faster response for sure and tend to stack or load up more and that can seem a bit tough to manage. I have settled on Bendy type bows that flex slightly in the handle. They just seem easier all around for me and I love how they shoot. On woods other than Osage (which I prefer), if I get a little under weight, I fire harden it and it usually brings the weight back up some or a lot. I am not a great bowyer by any means but mine have killed deer and such. I used to make mine 64" long but am very happy with 56-60" now. Due to accidents and operations, I now shoot from 35#-47#. The only advice that I can really give is to take it slow and remove only a little bit at a time. I figure that you already know that but sometimes I have to remind myself. I wish you the best with it my Brother, may it put a big smile on your face when you get it done. Jerry
@@jerrycox2058 Jerry, the bow is 60" and Osage Orange. The trad. shop owner just gave me the quarter split log, saying if you can make a bow out of that old log you deserve it for free. It was super old and had many longitudinal drying cracks, which I have to deal with in a "dynamic" sense. It's not a "bend-in-the-handle bow; it has a 4" handle section that is deep, and about 2" tapered fadeout sections. I tried to get it tillered to a "D" shape (more or less), but it bends a little more "mid-limb" than I like. I just gotta take more off like you say. I'm thinking to remove more wood near the fadeouts to minimize any more mid-limb bending than necessary. My most advanced project was a little osage "horse bow" that measured 42", was sinew backed, and deflexed and recurved. It was zippy with light arrows, but it came out too light; it only pulled around 28 or 30 lbs. @ around 18 or 20" if I remember. Thanks for stickin' with me. Maybe, I can touch base with you again and let you know how the bow is coming. Take care, and God Bless you!
@@jerrycox2058 I wasn't planning on building any more bows but you got me wondering if I should try one more bendy (in the handle) bow, or some type of bow with spliced tips (non-bending) that angle away from the shooter (I saw a neat video where a guy built one of these using some white wood and, man, was this bow fast.
Robert, next time you go hunting, try to attach your camera on your forehead or head, or even chest because ive seen youve got some trouble because everytime you have to zoom in and out or turn the canera for us to se the animal or place it somewhere when you go shoot it.
@@robertcarte95 thanks Mr Robert. Sure appreciate the info… i have used compound and crossbow and recurve and longbow and killed deer and pigs with them all, I just curious on steps to better my set ups . I have killed with my primitive bow and arrows with flint points the last few years to me that comes simple . But the more knowledge the better the outcome, I sure appreciate it sir.
I was seeing on TV were they have the spray bottle that neutralizes the odor a skunk and ammonia. And I was thinking as hunting to match your scent that if you sprayed your clothes down with that poop and then if you use skunk or Fox as a scent diverter, I just wonder if that would be the best way of doing it washing your clothes with unscented detergent running it through the dryer then bring it down with the poop and stuffing it in plastic bag after it is dried. And then you can use Fox and skunk as a sent detergent.
@@robertcarte95 ok yes sir, myself after watching ya shows got me into breaking mine out again. Had a blast. Thanks for getting the feeling back in again. Love watching your videos sir
Recurve / Longbow / Self Bow / Short Composite Bow / I'm using Italian bow MATRIX 48 lb Recurve takedown. total cost $40 on buy /sell site with 6 arrows 31" bullet practice tip. Compound Bow here in N.Canada...costs $500- over $1000.oo cad. (just shy of peoples monthly rent) Then their are the Accessories Over $200 for a Bow Case One Compound arrow without hunting tips average is $28 . for a 6 pack of eastons, its $150.
Thanks. I have heard of a couple limbs delaminating. For the money and with a warranty they are a good value. I thought about getting one to try and give a hands on review.
