That's why I watch your channel Nick. You pull out a useful gem out of your bag of tricks and share it. Thanks so much for this editing tip. Please do more of these type of video's there spot on for those of use trying to learn the craft.
Personally the only good thing comes from the covid, I have time to watch tutorials like yours. I lost my job twice during the lockdowns, I was so depressed because I never have been unemployed since I'm 16....And I was telling myself: "Dude what the fuck is wrong with you, your friends keep saying you have good talent for photography, you just need to learn more about the softwares" I'm really happy to find these channels like yours. You guys saving my menthal health LOL
Man i love you're editing videos. The combination of helpful tips and videos like this mixed with awesome adventure photo vlogs make this my favorite youtube channel by far. Keep it up man
In Lumenzia Panel, use the Diff(+/-) button to generate two masks. One 1-2 pix for the lighter pixel, the other one 1-2 pix for the darker pixel. Attach them each to a curve, and adjust each curve until the noise is gone. Depending on the noise size, you adjust the Diff(+/-) pixel size. This way you get better results for the whole image. And takes the same amount of time. And no manually painting in a noise reduction layer. (Pretty helpful with astro images, because you can choose the noise size. Otherwise PS basic noise filter kills important stars...)
A nice clear video that does leave me a little confused, Two Smart layers that are NOT linked, only one used, ??? How can the bottom layer be the Sharp one?
The bottom layer was sharpened in camera raw or light room, the top layer has the sharpness removed and noise reduction added. Then using a layer mask I only work that into the background areas where sharpness is not critical
Great tutorial Nick. But this works fine with normal layers as well. Just duplicate the normal bottom layer (Crtl+J), then bring up Camera Raw with Ctrl+Shift+A and adjust the noise reduction for the top layer and mask as usual. These only have to be smart objects if you want to go back to the adjustments later.
agreed, it would work nearly as well with normal layers, but I try to push people towards using smart objects when possible for the non destructive benefits.
Nick, I really admire your work and techniques. Maybye you can help me understand why crank up the detail only to remove it later? I find that the details slider just sharpens pixels and makes a mess like old wrinkle paint everywhere. Why not just use the masking directly in Lightroom in the same details panel. I think you explained this in one of your podcasts which I have listened to from the start BTW... I found it just better to not use the details slider and avoid puting that noise in there in the first place. I do a lot of performance photography for community theater groups with poor lighting and therefore high ISO and appriciate the tips on noise reduction. I'll have to give this a try on some of my stuff. Thanks and all the best!
This is a very interesting approach, but if the only use of Photoshop here is for noise reduction, why not just use an adjustment brush in Lightroom? Auto-mask does a pretty good job of avoiding your subject, and can be refined with the alt key as well. I'm also curious if you ever apply NR to the subject? Sometimes even "sharp" subjects can have a bunch of noise in the fur or feathers.
Because I edit primarily in light room this would only be one of the many things I would do to an image. Smart objects are a very powerful tool and working with selections and luminosity mask blows away anything you can do with an adjustment brush in Lightroom. Far more targeted. There are certainly times when I would work a little noise reduction into areas of the main subject, but in something like bird feathers the green can actually be perceived as extra sharpness and not as a negative
Perfect. I never use rasterized pixel layers - only smart layers. Why? Many reasons and you pointed a few out. One great one is you can never accidentally paint on a layer that’s a SO - big for dodge and burn - as an example. Love it. You did everything as I was thinking of the next step. lol. We think alike - that’s scary. Ha. Also, that reddish color when hitting the backslash is the rubylith overlay - another term from the old film days as I understand it. That color can be changed however to whatever color you want which can be helpful when working with red items!!
So much work.... I would have liked to see what's the difference between normal noise reduction and this. I shoot even 12500iso and i'm happy with the result.
So granted this isn’t for batch editing of course. And it takes longer to explain how to do it then it does to actually do it I wouldn’t spend this much time if I was processing the photo without explaining what I’m doing. But if you just have one really good shot to work on it’s worth the extra little bit of time because of the amount of sharpness you were able to retain in your subject
I like the editing choice of reducing noise using layers, but I'm confused as to why you felt the need to edit with Smart Objects. When you send it from Lightroom to Photoshop (by choosing "Edit in Photoshop CC" instead of "Open as Smart Object in Photoshop"), you're still editing the RAW file without a smart object. Also, having edited on many different computers, Smart Objects tend to bog down the computer processing. So, really the only benefit of editing as a smart object is if you're going to go back to that layer and make additional adjustments in the camera raw filter after the first adjustment. So, what I'm saying is, this same thing could have been accomplished using regular layers and skip the whole smart object.
Yes it could have, but I am assuming this is the first step to in an edit rather than the only step, I encourage people to always use smart objects if they can because it’s a less destructive workflow ( you can undo anything, it’s never baked in)
Nice video NIck! I was using until recently the same approach. Now for a few weeks I have been using the Topaz DeNoise AI and Topaz Sharpen AI and man.... It is only very rarely that I need to do denosing the "old" way (you should try it! and no I am not affiliate with Topaz in any way :) )
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Regarding to noise reduction in landscapes - you use PS luminosity masks with smart objects. Isn't better to do the same under Adobe Camera Raw directly? There are in ACR luminosity masks too. My question is because PS files are huge. 1-2GB is nothing extraordinary. What is your opinion?
Nick, I've been using the brush tool in LR to paint in the areas I wanted NR for my selections. Do you find better results using this method with Photoshop ?
It's like..how did you figure that out? The complexity has always scared me for PH and yes that's an awesome way to remove noise but seriously how did you figure that out?..and like others have said luminosity masks are like black magic...never get them to work right.
Any reason you don't add the noise reduction on the layer and then use blend-if to only have it apply to the shadows? Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Really there’s not a huge amount of difference between luminosity masks and blend if... But the main difference in this technique is that you’re using the luminosity mask as a selection which you can pay it through so you’re still in control over where it goes rather than just using the entire ready of the selection. If you want to just a little bit of noise reduction in the shadows of the background per se you could do that rather than adding them into the shadows of the entire image
I suppose this technique could also be used with processing photos of the Milky Way, correct? I shot some photos a couple nights ago, I’ll give it shot. Thanks!
Great. Now I want a Wacom. You’re killing me Nick! Great tutorial but I’ve got to stop watching yours and your buddies’ videos because I keep seeing cool s##t like new drones, Wacom tablets, etc.
