Thanks for the video!!! Just getting started reloading, 45acp particularly, find myself watching your simple process over the many other videos I've watched! Thanks again for sharing!!
Thanks for the great video. I also have RCBS dies but have been using the Lee Factory Crimp Die instead of the RCBS crimp die because I thought I would get a better crimp with Lee. The Lee adds one more die change to the process. With your excellent demonstration, I will now feel more confident using my RCBS die for setting and crimping.
The flying wing! I watch B-1s and B-2s take off and land every day at work. They are both amazing planes, the B-1 for the power and the B-2 for the design and capabilities. Great video too, thanks for sharing.
I have and been using the same RCBS single press like yours for the last 30 Years it serves me well for my type of reloading ITs always nice to watch a refresher corse The world of modern Tec, Wish we had it when I first started to reload, Thanks for sharing etc.
thank you so much for the info...was a bit worried because i purchased a hornady die set and worried that i didnt have the crimping die like in many of my lee sets...after watching your video i am confident that my reloads are going to turn out awesome!
I stuff in my cases some Dacron pillow stuffing on top of the powder it keeps the powder pressed down close to the primer for better firing, I was given thisTip years ago from an old 44 Magnum Reloader and it helps make a more accurite load also etc
What's the thickness of that ring? Hornady dies don't come with that and I'd love not to have to adjust the locking rings every time I switch from 38 to 357.
Nice Rock Chucker I also use RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme but I also have a hot aft lick n load as well, but RCBS is just my main it’s pure quality and their customer support is one of the best. In my experience I’ve never had a RCBS go faulty on me or break or anything. I’ve used Lee, Hornady and RCBS. RCBS is by far my fav. Some People swear by Dillon presses and the newer alien presses.
Okay, IMO the best way to set the seating and crimping die is to use a factory round and put it in the shell holder and adjust the die to that round. There will be slight adjustments but for the most part the round will be just fine as long as it matches the factory one.
Would you say splitting this up into 2 steps seating then crimping with a crimp die would be better or this would be just as effective?? I've been reloading for a little while now but I never reloaded for pistol before. I just recently bought a Dillon 550C only problem is when I ordered a die set from Lee it didn't come with a crimp die like most of their rifle die sets do and finding a Lee factory crimp die for 9mm is not exactly an easy task... I was going to run them through my Dillon and swap over to my single stage and run them through using the crimp on the bullet seating die but figured I'd check and see what others are doing because I've always been told for rifle you don't necessarily want to crimp and seat at the same time...
I do not crimp my 9mm rounds. My manual backs this up but does say a mild crimp can be used IF needed. Remember 9mm uses the rim to establish head space so the most important thing is to make sure you trim to the correct length. Always consult your manual to be sure.
Once you established bullet seating depth to correct spec... Mae a witness mark at 6 o'clock on seating die and locking ring. Now you can do 1/4 turn and set what ever chino tightness you desire. Of course back out the seating stem couple of turns and screw seating stem back to position after final crimping is set. I make a dummy round of my favorite most commonly use bullet with out active primer I use it to check seating depth and specs now and again
I double check my crimp every time I reload. It only takes a couple of minutes. Also since I generally don’t trim pistol brass a crimp check each time works for me.
Funny, I didn't see you that caliper at all!. the cannaluer is not the same height on all bullets. I prefer a little more accurate COAL.. just saying. your method is ok ,if your brass has been checked, and is all at the same exact trim length within say 1 to 2 thousands. If not, you will find some of your cases over or under crimped!.. that's why I do the crimp process separately, you can actually feel each case getting a good crimp or a lite one...and adjust accordingly as you go.....
why would my bulltet head have rotational play after crimping? If i grip the hed with my teeth and turn the case, it actually turns What am i doing wrong?
I been watching all the videos but its all going over my head I don't get it I know some of it but not sure how the contraptions work it very confusing forgive me I'm from UK so I only watch the videos but I find some things very confusing
Funny, I didn't see you that caliper at all!. the cannaluer is not the same height on all bullets. I prefer a little more accurate COAL.. just saying. your method is ok ,if your brass has been checked, and is all at the same exact trim length within say 1 to 2 thousands. If not, you will find some of your cases over or under crimped!.. that's why I do the crimp process separately, you can actually feel each case getting a good crimp or a lite one...
I like your information even with the mistakes that are corrected. But we cannot see the top of the die and thus it is hard to see what you are doing up there.
Sorry, you don't eyeball the length of the bullet. You measure O/L. In less, you like potential problems when using the firearm. Other than that. Great explanation on how to get perfect duplicatable bullets.
I don't understand. You pushed the bullet in to get the case to crimp exactly where you wanted it to on the bullet. At that point the C.O.L. must be checked before crimping, no?
Nevada Sage COL is established in step one. You seat the bullet to the correct depth then back off the seating stem. After the correct crimp is determined the setting stem is lowered to contact the bullet thus maintaining the correct COL. Hope that makes sense.
@@Sharps-im4lb Nope, this video is messed up. It's called a bullet seating vid. At 5:04 you start fiddling with the die and knob not saying anything about what you are doing. No calipers come out, nothing...but you have patched this video together. Then all of a sudden you say you have the bullet where you want it. Nice, no numbers nothing. Waste of peoples time to watch this.
I'm here asking a basic question on a basic reload vid and I'm supposed to know alot about reloading? Why are you here? Because you are an expert reloader? Or you mom just doesn't have any chores for you to do today.
@faultroyHe foregoes the use of calipers to adjust seating depth. He simply repeats adjusting the bullet seating knob and raising the ram till the top of the case mouth is in line with the cannelure on the bullet. Making no caliper measurement is just odd to me.
Why complicate the process???Step:1 back off the crimping die and seating nut.Step: 2 put a live round in the press and push the press handle all the way down Step:3 tighten the crimping die and seating nut down on the live round till it gets tight. step:4 test and asses the crimp and make fine adjustments if needed.Done!
So what's going on when you're chugging along with crimping/seating, everything going fine and suddenly your case gets a wrinkle in it about halfway down it? Case too long? Bullet diameter too big?
