This action / bolt did not get sleeved, those bushings were installed merely to indicate for perfect alignment, sorry for the confusion, I should have explained that a little better.
@@accuracydevelopmentsolutions I understood that mate. It was probably more a case of myself not being clear. I meant that I don't see any RU-vid gunsmiths (including yourself, in this video) going the extra step of sleeving the bolt to make a neat, concentric fit in the action. I guess either the customer doesn't want to pay for that level of build, or the smiths aren't into doing that type work. Cheers mate.
After I use the tip of my indicator to adjust for zero runout I always put my test indicator probe in between the tip and pivot to get even higher resolution to adjust to zero runout. I've never seen a gunsmith do that in the 100's of gunsmith videos I've watched. I'm not measuring the runout value, I don't care what it says. I'm looking for ANY non coaxial alignment with a lever on a stick using ratios. Closer to the probe pivot the more the needle is gonna swing. After that you can put the tip back on your work and it won't deflect at all.
Why remove any material from the front of the bolt nose or from the front of the lugs? I’ve seen plenty of Remingtons after doing so on the nose crack and loose the extractor then the customer has to pay for a Sako or m16 install. Both surfaces are just clearance
Why don't you use the Viper fixture (that you used for the action) to chamber your barrel? It makes indicating the barrel very easy, at least for a newbie like me. 🙂
I only use the Viper fixture for barrels that are too short to fit through the headstock of my lathe. I have a spider on the outboard side I feel I get better support on any of the long barrel length stuff I work on so mostly just a personal preference.
